Oil Change Diesel R75 MGZT

[Arctic]

This is a pictorial how to on how I do an oil change on the R75 MGZT diesel.

Hopefully this will help new members and owners if they decide to do there own oil change at some time.

My first bit of advise is get all your tools and items you will need together and allocate your self a day for the oil change to take place.

On the day of the oil change drive the car for at least 5 miles this will get the oil hot and help with draining the old oil out, once you return from the drive either jack the car up onto axle stands or drive onto ramps if you have some.

Oil Filter bargain
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-2-0-CDT-CDTi-1951cc-Diesel-Oil-Filter-Genuine-Mahle-1999-2004/232365940778?fits=Car+Make%3ARover%7CModel%3A75&hash=item361a16e02a:g:k6cAAOxy4dNS-5Kk


You can now remove the under tray ready for when you drain the oil Fig 1/2/3/4 (a)
http://i62.tinypic.com/212zeap.jpg1a

http://i62.tinypic.com/2r5xgfo.jpg2a

http://i61.tinypic.com/ay69og.jpg3a

http://i61.tinypic.com/161e1sh.jpg4a

Now the under tray has been removed turn your attention to removing the engine cover, some may leave it in place but as I was changing all the filters I removed the engine cover, in my opinion it helps as you have a little bit more room, tools need are 8mm socket. Fig 1/2/3
http://i58.tinypic.com/1zbf6md.jpg1
(NOTE )
They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, best to put either the same length or smaller bolt to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be, do not over tighten when re-fiting, (TOP LEFT BOLT) as it can puncture the cam cover

http://i57.tinypic.com/eqb9s7.jpg2

http://i58.tinypic.com/o56xid.jpg3

With all three engine cover bolts removed you can lift the engine cover off putting it safe to one side with the bolts. Fig 4/5/6
http://i58.tinypic.com/rc6jom.jpg4

http://i60.tinypic.com/300w6fq.jpg5

http://i59.tinypic.com/1h9mpw.jpg6

The next job is to loosen not remover yet the oil filter top you will need a 36mm shallow socket Fig 7/8
http://i62.tinypic.com/mwr3wp.jpg7

http://i57.tinypic.com/2133m37.jpg8

Below the oil filter is the alternator this must be covered up so no oil drips onto it as damaged can occur thus causing you to change it should damage occur. Fig 9
http://i59.tinypic.com/2d56ci.jpg9

Use some good rags, cloths to cover the alternator up as here below Fig 10
http://i61.tinypic.com/15drlhc.jpg10

With the rags in place you can now loosen the oil filter top a little Fig 11/12
http://i59.tinypic.com/qqzgxs.jpg11

http://i62.tinypic.com/fl9i03.jpg12

Now it is time to get under the car and drain the oil which should have settled nicely in the sump, the sump is situated at a great angle so the oil will drain freely you will need a 15mm socket and 15mm ratchet spanner to remove the sump bolt. Fig 13/14
http://i58.tinypic.com/8x333k.jpg13

http://i59.tinypic.com/o8ht84.jpg14

Once you have cracked the bolt you can use the 15mm ratchet spanner it gives you more control over the bolt again in my opinion. Fig 15
http://i59.tinypic.com/2qsbi3c.jpg15

Place your oil catcher or bucket which ever you are using under the sump area ready to catch the oil once you remove the sump bolt. Fig 16
http://i61.tinypic.com/11ayg09.jpg16

With the sump bolts loosened you can slowly remove it always keeping pressure on it so oil does not yet pour from the sump. Fig 17/18
http://i60.tinypic.com/2r5x7ad.jpg17

http://i57.tinypic.com/2llbuk5.jpg18

As you can see from this photo I am still keeping pressure on the bolt to stop the oil from pouring out, i am now ready to remove the bolt quickly so the oil will drain straight into the oil container below.Fig 19
http://i58.tinypic.com/34j8zgo.jpg19

With the bolt removed fast the oil pours out into the container and I have my hands out of the way. Fig 20/21
http://i57.tinypic.com/oifxc4.jpg20

http://i58.tinypic.com/sybjgz.jpg21

Leave the oil draining for a while, you can now think about removing the oil filter Fig 22
http://i60.tinypic.com/1zybzty.jpg22

After you have had a coffee or cup of tea giving time for the oil to drain from the oil filter pot, you are ready to carry on with the oil change, removing the oil filter top, (quick little tip tighten up the oil filter top more than you would normally) then re-loosen this will become apparent later.

Undo and release the top slowly making sure you have a small container ready to drop the top into, an old windscreen washer container cut in half is good Fig 23/24
http://i61.tinypic.com/2cmoi9h.jpg23

http://i58.tinypic.com/jhvjtd.jpg24

Once loosened enough you can remove with your hand Fig 25
http://i59.tinypic.com/hwe2jp.jpg25

Drop it into the container, as you can see when I re-tightened the oil filter top earlier it as crushed the oil filter helping it stay in place when I remove the top, you don't have to do this as you can remove it with your fingers after the top as been removed if you so wish. Fig 26
http://i59.tinypic.com/dr8ard.jpg26

Now the filter as been removed you can see I split a little of the oil but the rag as done it's job,there is still some oil in the pot I like to remove this also Fig 27
http://i61.tinypic.com/264n8e9.jpg27

I need to get this oil out of the pot as I want it to be clean inside as best it can before adding the new filter Fig 28
http://i58.tinypic.com/oiw64k.jpg28

To do this you can use some more old rags to soak up the oil left over in the pot Fig 29
http://i57.tinypic.com/nzn4nr.jpg29

pot cleaned out good enough I think Fig 30
http://i62.tinypic.com/16c89yq.jpg30

With your new filter you will have some new O-rings some come with three O-rings some with just the large one as in this case below, dis-regard the copper washer it is not used on the R75 diesel but they all have them in the box they are to small? Fig 31
http://i60.tinypic.com/2l8184.jpg31

The large O-ring needs to be changed also the small ones if you have them in you filter box Fig 32
http://i59.tinypic.com/343l0na.jpg32

First remove the old filter Fig 33
http://i60.tinypic.com/e9xajb.jpg33

Now you can remove the old O-ring use an hook tool if you have one if not a small thin screwdriver will do Fig 34
http://i57.tinypic.com/9lcs9d.jpg34

Dispose of the O-ring safely as you will be fitting the new one shown with the new filter here Fig 35
http://i59.tinypic.com/sg7bk1.jpg35

Add the new O-ring to the filter top note it fits in the second groove Fig 36
http://i62.tinypic.com/2qkp6h1.jpg36

The new filter can now be fitted into the oil chamber Fig 37/38
http://i61.tinypic.com/s156vp.jpg37

http://i58.tinypic.com/2lbe238.jpg38

Followed by the filter top making sure you keep it centre lower it down and do it up hand tight Fig 39/40
http://i58.tinypic.com/5troqr.jpg39

http://i61.tinypic.com/34iltaf.jpg40

Finally tighten it up with the socket (Nm25 = 18lbf ft) do not over tighten as you will crush the filter inside damaging it Fig 41
http://i59.tinypic.com/1zp4rhv.jpg41

Remove the rags and make sure all is clean and dry Fig 42
http://i60.tinypic.com/13z7aqd.jpg42

Time to make another coffee while that cools you can pop back under the car wipe any dripping oil, then re-fit the sump bolt using a new one if you have one if not the old one should be ok. Fig 43
http://i62.tinypic.com/2q0t1yh.jpg43

Finger tight sump bolt Fig 44
http://i60.tinypic.com/24oydkp.jpg44

Tighten the sump bolt up with the ratchet spanner 15mm Fig 45
http://i58.tinypic.com/296bxg2.jpg45

Re-fit the under tray drop the car off the axle stands or ramps if you used ramps push it off slow, get someone to help if you can, if not you could add the 5ltrs of oil first then drive it off you will then need to wait for the oil to drain back down before adding anymore.

You can now add you new oil use a funnel it is even better if you can get someone to hold the funnel for you, this will avoid spillage Fig 46
http://i57.tinypic.com/9ljpg9.jpg46

Add a full 5ltrs at first Fig 47
http://i61.tinypic.com/2rdaybs.jpg47
(NOTE )
They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, best to put either the same length or smaller bolt to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be, do not over tighten when re-fiting, (TOP LEFT BOLT) as it can puncture the cam cover.


While the oil makes it's way down to the sump re-fit the engine cover 8mm socket Fig 48
http://i61.tinypic.com/35k671y.jpg48

Add one more ltr then start the car so the oil fills the oil filter pot, let the oil drain down again add another 400ml take car for a quick drive couple of miles return let the engine tick over for about 5 minutes then turn the engine off, let oil settle again for about 15 minutes recheck level top up to max if you need to good luck Arctic

[MSS]

An excellent how-to Steve.

It's worth mentioning the importance of noting the different lengths of the engine cover bolts when removing and making sure that they are refitted in their correct locations.

Maninder.

[Arctic]

An excellent how-to Steve.

It's worth mentioning the importance of noting the different lengths of the engine cover bolts when removing and making sure that they are refitted in their correct locations.

Maninder.

Hi Maninder.
They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, but you are correct, best to put either the same length or smaller bolts to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be.

http://i57.tinypic.com/4l65g9.jpg

[rosephus]

Or save yourself a lot of hassle and use a Pela pump.

:D:D

[Vossy]

Excellent how to for those that think its a hard or difficult job.

I also change my filter every 2,500 miles, its so easy to get to and very cheap to buy, it also keeps the oil very clean even on a diesel, not necessary but I do it.

[Bazza58]

nice one Steve, will file this info with the rest cheers.:}

[dadragon]

Arctic, "16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be". I fitted tap washers to all my bolts as they were all the same length, it still tightens nice and snug and now there's no chance of them piercing through. You never know who did the servicing for the previous owner, I only trust myself. :}
Regards DaDragon

[myfirstrover]

:} Nice one , well done that man

[COLVERT]

Excellent how to for those that think its a hard or difficult job.

I also change my filter every 2,500 miles, its so easy to get to and very cheap to buy, it also keeps the oil very clean even on a diesel, not necessary but I do it.

Filters gradually become More efficient as they age and the holes in the filter medium slowly get Smaller.---:duh:

[Busboy]

I am about to attempt my first oil change since acquiring my car last Sept I have covered 6k Miles and the oil is as black as the Ace of spades! (I do mostly motorway mileage and rarely exceed 2k RPM ( And cruise happily at 70 MPH! my car has FSH from new and as far as I can see all has been done properly In The past.

I have collected all that I need : Oil :Mobil 10/40, Slick 50 (used it in 17 cars over 30 years!), Oil Filter, 36 mm low profile socket, fuel filter, air filter, a sealy vac extractor , this is because like so many other members I would prefer to do it this way as I do not want to have to invest in a new trolley jack or heavy duty axle stands and have to grovel around trying to remove the engine tray. I have watched the you tube video of the american Topsider in use and I recommend every member that does not have access to a proper lift or pit to view this as This method just looks the buisiness , if the topsider was available in this country I would have surely bought one but imported from the US it would cost nearly £100.

[Busboy]

I am about to attempt my first oil change since acquiring my car last Sept I have covered 6k Miles and the oil is as black as the Ace of spades! (I do mostly motorway mileage and rarely exceed 2k RPM ( And cruise happily at 70 MPH! my car has FSH from new and as far as I can see all has been done properly inThe past.

I have collected all that I need : Oil :Mobil 10/40, Slick 50 (used it in 17 cars over 30 years!), Oil Filter, 36 mm low profile socket, fuel filter, air filter, a sealy vac extractor , this is because like so many other members I would prefer to do it this way as I do not want to have to invest in a new trolley jack or heavy duty axle stands and have to grovel around trying to remove the engine tray. I have watched the you tube video of the american Topsider in use and I recommend every member that does not have access to a proper lift or pit to view this as This method just looks the buisiness , if the topsider was available in this country I would have surely bought one but imported from the US it would cost nearly £100.

When it's all done I'll report back!! ::}

[grivas]

As always an excellent how to, however I prefer a Pela-type of system works a treat, no mess no undertrays, every drop extracted, do it twice a year, with good quality oil/filter.

[Arctic]

Or save yourself a lot of hassle and use a Pela pump.

:D:D

I am about to attempt my first oil change since acquiring my car last Sept I have covered 6k Miles and the oil is as black as the Ace of spades! (I do mostly motorway mileage and rarely exceed 2k RPM ( And cruise happily at 70 MPH! my car has FSH from new and as far as I can see all has been done properly In The past.

I have collected all that I need : Oil :Mobil 10/40, Slick 50 (used it in 17 cars over 30 years!), Oil Filter, 36 mm low profile socket, fuel filter, air filter, a sealy vac extractor , this is because like so many other members I would prefer to do it this way as I do not want to have to invest in a new trolley jack or heavy duty axle stands and have to grovel around trying to remove the engine tray. I have watched the you tube video of the american Topsider in use and I recommend every member that does not have access to a proper lift or pit to view this as This method just looks the buisiness , if the topsider was available in this country I would have surely bought one but imported from the US it would cost nearly £100.

Hi Joe & Keith.
Nice bits of kit but it will not do a visual check of other parts under the car for you ie, hoses, lower engine mounts, lower wish bone bushes, turbo hose and leaking from the compressor and such so the old way is for me, ;) Good luck with the service.

[gazcon]

Excellent how-to as always :bowdown:

Worth highlighting that when fitting the new large O ring onto the oil filter housing, it doesn't go in the top groove as you might think, but in the second groove down (as seen in fig 32).

I cut a hole in my undertray to allow access to the sump plug. Fortunately there were a few drips to mark where to cut! First time I changed the oil it took me longer to get the undertray back on than the rest of the job combined. Now changing the oil is so quick it almost doesn't feel like a 'proper' job anymore!

As Arctic says, still important to get the undertray off regularly to have a proper look around. Just nice not to have to when changing the oil if I know all's well elsewhere.

[Vossy]

Filters gradually become More efficient as they age and the holes in the filter medium slowly get Smaller.---:duh:

Surely if that were the case we would never need to change an oil filter - ever, there is a reason Royal Mail always fit an extra oil filter to their diesel trucks, it keeps the oil clean and prevents long term problems, it was a practice I adopted when running my wagons also, I would not take a chance on letting a filter get clogged, twice as often is always better than twice as long.
When I drain oil from a diesel I still want to see a glimmer of gold colour and not just jet black, this works for me.
If it has worked for you then its great, just not for me.

Still a perfect how to for anyone.

[MSS]

Hi Maninder.
They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, but you are correct, best to put either the same length or smaller bolts to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be.

http://i57.tinypic.com/4l65g9.jpg

Agreed Steve. The bolts on mine are all all the same size. But as there have been few reported cases of people puncturing through to the camshaft chamber due to having different length bolts and refitting a longer one in the top left hand position.... best to check.

[Arctic]

Agreed Steve. The bolts on mine are all all the same size. But as there have been few reported cases of people puncturing through to the camshaft chamber due to having different length bolts and refitting a longer one in the top left hand position.... best to check.

Maninder
Thread as been edited to let members know thank you for pointing it out cheers Steve :}

[Heddy]

Great post Steve, and timely too. With Easter approaching, maybe a few deals going on with the price of oil. Post will encourage the not so confident to tackle this very worthwhile task.:}

[dadragon]

Arctic, a quick question, I just re-read your how to and realized two things.
1, you have bolts holding your undertray on where as mine has those awkward large threaded screws, is that because yours is an earlier car(noticed the extra under bonnet pump on the picture) or because yours is a manual?. I didn't even know the undertrays were different on manuals and autos!!.
2, I just realized that I don't take off my engine cover to change my oil filter (silly me for not realizing earlier!!) I'm sure there is enough room to do it with the cover in situ. Doesn't detract from your excellent "how to" though. As mentioned this may encourage others to have a go, which in my opinion is worth it's weight in gold!! Thanks.
Regards DaDragon

[COLVERT]

Surely if that were the case we would never need to change an oil filter - ever, there is a reason Royal Mail always fit an extra oil filter to their diesel trucks, it keeps the oil clean and prevents long term problems, it was a practice I adopted when running my wagons also, I would not take a chance on letting a filter get clogged, twice as often is always better than twice as long.
When I drain oil from a diesel I still want to see a glimmer of gold colour and not just jet black, this works for me.
If it has worked for you then its great, just not for me.

Still a perfect how to for anyone.

Slight miss reading of my post. I didn't say Don't Change it. I merely said that throughout the course of its NORMAL life it slowly becomes more efficient.
You actually read something into my post that I didn't say.-:eek:

In your post you said yourself it was UN-Necessary which then begs the question------Why do it then ?????------;););)Very odd.--:p:

[Vossy]

Slight miss reading of my post. I didn't say Don't Change it. I merely said that throughout the course of its NORMAL life it slowly becomes more efficient.
You actually read something into my post that I didn't say.-:eek:

In your post you said yourself it was UN-Necessary which then begs the question------Why do it then ?????------;););)Very odd.--:p:

I do it because like I said I still like to see the oil not completely black, its simply my way of doing it, I agree its not necessary until manufacturers recommendations but old habits die hard with me. It has kept me in good stay in the past during my working life. When I check my oil it is nice to see it clean on the dipstick especially on a diesel.
I hope that clears my take on it.

I do not wish to take this thread away from Artics excellent how to.

[Arctic]

Arctic, a quick question, I just re-read your how to and realized two things.
1, you have bolts holding your undertray on where as mine has those awkward large threaded screws, is that because yours is an earlier car(noticed the extra under bonnet pump on the picture) or because yours is a manual?. I didn't even know the undertrays were different on manuals and autos!!.
2, I just realized that I don't take off my engine cover to change my oil filter (silly me for not realizing earlier!!) I'm sure there is enough room to do it with the cover in situ. Doesn't detract from your excellent "how to" though. As mentioned this may encourage others to have a go, which in my opinion is worth it's weight in gold!! Thanks.
Regards DaDragon


Hi Lee.
The bolts on the under tray/ engine shield are ones I added myself as I was fed up with the 1/4 turn ones going missing and not completely secure, so I used spires and 10mm self tapping bolts, I always take the engine cover off it just gives you a little bit more room and again you can make a visual inspection injectors and fuel line hoses etc, also I changed the air filter and PCV and fuel filter at the same time so again it would have to be removed, the under bonnet pump was used through out the range as mine was a 2004 model, therefore in theory should not have it, these R75 car are always throwing up surprises. ;)

[HarryM1BYT]

Surely if that were the case we would never need to change an oil filter - ever, there is a reason Royal Mail always fit an extra oil filter to their diesel trucks, it keeps the oil clean and prevents long term problems, it was a practice I adopted when running my wagons also, I would not take a chance on letting a filter get clogged, twice as often is always better than twice as long.
When I drain oil from a diesel I still want to see a glimmer of gold colour and not just jet black, this works for me.
If it has worked for you then its great, just not for me.

Still a perfect how to for anyone.

Lots of larger engines have two oil filters, a normal one, then an extra fine one through which a small proportion of the circulating oil passes through.

I agree with Colvert - Filters do actually become more efficient as use progresses, but its a trade off between efficiency and flow - leave it in long enough and there will be no through flow because it will choke. Not sure whether the M45 has one, but some filter housings have a by-pass system, to by-pass a filter if it becomes completely choked.

So changing your filter too often, might not be a good idea.

Mine does around 6K per year, so I change the oil annually, the filter every second year.

The oil in a diesel BTW, is supposed to be black. That is the oil doing its job properly, in washing all the dirty combustion products out and suspending them in the oil. The oil in a diesel will turn black within just a very few miles.

[dadragon]

Arctic, yes I knew about the extra pump on the earlier models, I was just trying to understand the reason for the bolts on the undertray so was using this as a reason, thought for a minute I was missing something!!. That's a good idea to replace them, fortunately I bought new screws and everything's fine (so far) in that department. I know what you mean about these cars throwing up surprises, mine is a 2004 and has a single in tank pump, as does my wife's 2004, yet my sons has 2, also a 2004, go figure!!!!. Thanks.
Regards DaDragon

[johnnyb44]

Many thanks Arctic for your excellent post on the how to "change your oil" These posts are absolutely invaluable to the likes of me, so even stating the obvious is a god send for plonkers like me .
Not all of us are mechanically minded but that does not mean we dont like getting our hands dirty. In-depth guides like this just give the less confident the opportunity to tackle jobs they would normally shy away from and saving a few pounds in the process
Keep up the good work Arctic ( its always appreciated )
Johnny

[MevagisseyMedic]

I Arctic,
Always good to see photos rather than reams of text, personally I use a Sealey TP69 vacuum pump. It has a 6.5 litre tank, good enough for our engines.

As for extra hands for the funnel, I cut the end off, so much easier. see photo.

[Arctic]

I Arctic,
Always good to see photos rather than reams of text, personally I use a Sealey TP69 vacuum pump. It has a 6.5 litre tank, good enough for our engines.

As for extra hands for the funnel, I cut the end off, so much easier. see photo.

Hi Barry.
Good idea that noted for next :bowdown: Arctic

[MSS]

I Arctic,
Always good to see photos rather than reams of text, personally I use a Sealey TP69 vacuum pump. It has a 6.5 litre tank, good enough for our engines.

As for extra hands for the funnel, I cut the end off, so much easier. see photo.

Thanks for those photos shwoing which end to cut off :D:D:}

[myrover2013]

what a fantastic review many thanks & with all these pictures, a real credit to the club

[Submarineman]

Hi Arctic, just a quick verification, the eBay link at the start of this thread to an Oil Filter, the eBay site states that it will not fit SE Connoisseur CDTI ? I have a sneaky suspicion that your superior knowledge may nullify what is stated: will it fit my 2.0 CDTI?

[Arctic]

Hi Arctic, just a quick verification, the eBay link at the start of this thread to an Oil Filter, the eBay site states that it will not fit SE Connoisseur CDTI ? I have a sneaky suspicion that your superior knowledge may nullify what is stated: will it fit my 2.0 CDTI? Hi Grant
Yes it will fit it fitted mine and other members cars, it is the same as this one below ;) if you doing a full service and not just the oil :}
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401019781864?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

These fit also
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350726729300?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch% 2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D35072 6729300%26_rdc%3D1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mg-Mg-Zt-Quality-Cabin-Pollen-Filter-Car-Tf18354-VAR33/350722446081?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D35391%26meid%3D97cbde1f54284ea4a4f998ab18db ffd1%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26mehot%3D ag%26sd%3D330877656385

PCV filter a must if not changed in the last 18 months in my opinion only.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300687401339?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[spyder]

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/$(KGrHqF,!oEE9ggNEJjwBPlTYPsEqg~~60_1.JPG

I just ordered a filter from ECP, with some other bits and pieces last week. The one they sent was flat on the top and the bottom, no raised rim in the centre??
It fitted but did not look correct, so changed it for one from Mat, the same as the picture above.
Any thoughts on the difference ?

[Arctic]

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/$(KGrHqF,!oEE9ggNEJjwBPlTYPsEqg~~60_1.JPG

I just ordered a filter from ECP, with some other bits and pieces last week. The one they sent was flat on the top and the bottom, no raised rim in the centre??
It fitted but did not look correct, so changed it for one from Mat, the same as the picture above.
Any thoughts on the difference ?

Hi Craig
Was it like the one in the photo below, if so it would still have fitted just from a different maker maybe bearmach ?

[spyder]

Hi Craig
Was it like the one in the photo below, if so it would still have fitted just from a different maker maybe bearmach ?

Yes that was the one, it did fit, I was just unsure about how well it would have sealed. Pedantic I know.:o

[Amsca2]

Why does it need to be a low profile 36 to remove filter housing? I'm about to buy one and surely any depth would work since its easy to get at.

[FrenchMike]

Why does it need to be a low profile 36 to remove filter housing? I'm about to buy one and surely any depth would work since its easy to get at.

cost question i beleive ...:shrug:

[HarryM1BYT]

Why does it need to be a low profile 36 to remove filter housing? I'm about to buy one and surely any depth would work since its easy to get at.

Yes, any depth will work absolutely fine and a few larger sizes will also fit too, providing it is not too tight. Mine is a 38mm.

[amham]

Many thanks to Arctic for his comprehensive guide. I've just bought my first Rover 75 diesel Tourer and am doing an oil and filter change so this is really helpful. I looked on Amazon for the filter and think this (at £4.80) will take some beating for Amazon Prime members: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Japanparts-FO-ECO021-Oil-Filter/dp/B00DZKCILG/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466514519&vehicle=95-1840-4772-15909-1-0&sr=1-3
The middle size o-ring has split on mine and this filter appears to include all three rings. Many filters only come with the large ring and a copper washer.

[Busboy]

Wow that's an excellent how to, but my opinion for what it's worth is - is that really worth all that effort removing the under tray etc!
, for a start I bought myself a Sealy oil extractor and what a great piece of kit , I wish they were around 40 years ago, I could have saved myself a lot of groveling around on garage floors grazing knuckles and getting a crooked neck!

I actually follow most of the photo thread but do it all from above. I take very carefull measurements of the oil extracted and the extractor does remove all the oil

I change my oil every 6k and now use ASDA 5/30 it has all the right specs and you bet it is made by a leading oil company and for £ 25 a go for 5 (yes 5 litres!) it is excellent value. so much so ASDA is always selling out of the stuff

Thanks for an excellent post anyway

[Arctic]

Hi Keith.
I like to do my oil changes the old way, under tray removed that way I can do a visual inspection on the under carriage, bottom of the engine including the engine mount, all rubber gaiters etc.

I have heard good things about these suckers but old way is for me ;)

[DMGRS]

I usually do it the old fashioned (if that's what you'd call it!) way, however this time for speed I used a sucker-type device.

I agree with Arctic, doing it from underneath is a good chance to check everything out. Catching a splitting gaiter before the grease is lost can save a CV joint, seeing your rear lower mount is splitting can save your exhaust flexi section etc etc.

[Arctic]

Yes, any depth will work absolutely fine and a few larger sizes will also fit too, providing it is not too tight. Mine is a 38mm. I prefer to use the shallow socket it fits better, and is less likely to slip should the cap have been tightened up by a Gorilla which I have known in the past, the same applies to the size only use 36mm less likely to slip and round off the cap as it is made of plastic.
http://i65.tinypic.com/2zoagpu.jpg1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-SX114-LOW-PROFILE-OIL-FILTER-SOCKET-36MM-3-8-DRIVE-/310824262657?hash=item485e91dc01:g:KhQAAOSwmrlUxqu 1

[c-j2]

Re the oil filter cartridge 25.5Nm torque setting stated, does everyone use a torque wrench (in calibration of course!)?

Or are there other methods of gauging how far it needs to be tightened?

As the o-ring seals on the side, i presume that provides the majority of the seal regardless of how far the lid is turned down?

Please advise if i'm missing something!
Thanks
Chris

[mininuts]

Re the oil filter cartridge 25.5Nm torque setting stated, does everyone use a torque wrench (in calibration of course!)?

Or are there other methods of gauging how far it needs to be tightened?

As the o-ring seals on the side, i presume that provides the majority of the seal regardless of how far the lid is turned down?

Please advise if i'm missing something!
Thanks
Chris

I always use a torque wrench set to the correct torque as the cap is plastic. Over tightening will give you problems next time you need to change the filter ;)
Torque settings are given for a reason ;)

[Number 6]

Having read thru this post again I have noticed that it says you DO NOT place the large oil seal in the top groove,So assume you use the second groove correct?

Can some one tell me why you use the second groove instead of the top groove please.

[HarryM1BYT]

I always use a torque wrench set to the correct torque as the cap is plastic. Over tightening will give you problems next time you need to change the filter ;)
Torque settings are given for a reason ;)

I have a torque wrench, have changed the filter a number of times over the years, but no I never bother to use the torque wrench for this. I do it by feel, keeping in mind this is plastic and seals against an O ring. It needs to be tight, but not massively tight.

[David Lawrence]

Having read thru this post again I have noticed that it says you DO NOT place the large oil seal in the top groove,So assume you use the second groove correct?

Can some one tell me why you use the second groove instead of the top groove please.

In the top groove it will slide up to the top as you screw it down then squash in the corner when it tightens up, a few hundred miles later with a hot engine the o ring will blow out through the side through an impossibly small gap, and the result will be oil all over the front of the engine.

Dont ask me how I know that.

[Arctic]

Hi David.
Beat me to it, the O-ring is used in the second groove so it seals inside the pot on the ledge of the thread, like said above if you used the top groove you would not be able to tighten the cap properly and it will not make a complete seal.

Rule of thumb if no torque is available, tighten down slowly then a little nip, if you over tighten it will squash the filter.

[Number 6]

Hi David.
Beat me to it, the O-ring is used in the second groove so it seals inside the pot on the ledge of the thread, like said above if you used the top groove you would not be able to tighten the cap properly and it will not make a complete seal.

Rule of thumb if no torque is available, tighten down slowly then a little nip, if you over tighten it will squash the filter.

Best go and swap it around then,However since I have had the car (11 years) I have always used the top groove as this is where the seal was when I did my first ever oil change on it (Previously serviced at a main dealer").So I assume they did not put in the correct place when serviced by them.

Well 11 years later and 120,000 miles it has never been a prolem but will swap it "Just in case";)

[Arctic]

Best go and swap it around then,However since I have had the car (11 years) I have always used the top groove as this is where the seal was when I did my first ever oil change on it (Previously serviced at a main dealer").So I assume they did not put in the correct place when serviced by them.

Well 11 years later and 120,000 miles it has never been a prolem but will swap it "Just in case";)


HI John.
If you look closely you will there is a section in the thread of the filter cap for an hook screwdriver to help remove the O-ring pictures below cheers Arctic ;)

[Number 6]

HI John.
If you look closely you will there is a section in the thread of the filter cap for an hook screwdriver to help remove the O-ring pictures below cheers Arctic ;)

As ever Steve Thanks for the Pics,It makes sense now you have pointed it out.Pity the main dealer didnt know about it..

While you are on,,Can ATF be used in the Power Steering to top it up ??:shrug:

[Arctic]

As ever Steve Thanks for the Pics,It makes sense now you have pointed it out.Pity the main dealer didnt know about it..

While you are on,,Can ATF be used in the Power Steering to top it up ??:shrug:


Hi John
In some cases, but not in all cases, I would not use it on our cars use power steering fluid, use any fluid Dexron III spec

[c-j2]

I always use a torque wrench set to the correct torque as the cap is plastic. Over tightening will give you problems next time you need to change the filter ;)
Torque settings are given for a reason ;)

I have a torque wrench, have changed the filter a number of times over the years, but no I never bother to use the torque wrench for this. I do it by feel, keeping in mind this is plastic and seals against an O ring. It needs to be tight, but not massively tight.

Guys,
Thanks both for sharing experiences on this. It would be interesting to know what the majority do.

[c-j2]

Rule of thumb if no torque is available, tighten down slowly then a little nip, if you over tighten it will squash the filter.

cheers Arctic,
makes sense as a compromise

[spyder]

As ever Steve Thanks for the Pics,It makes sense now you have pointed it out.Pity the main dealer didnt know about it..

While you are on,,Can ATF be used in the Power Steering to top it up ??:shrug:

Some hydraulic seals do not get along with ATF, I doubt if it would affect most motorcar systems though.
Mixing the two is however not a good idea at all.

[Arctic]

It's on the list for refurbishment :mad:

[Typhoon190]

Evening Steve. Me again, cap in hand as I am very much at the bottom of the learning curve regards the diesel. :o

I have undertaken the service items I'm aware of on the latest project.

PCV filter, air filter, fuel filter, oil and filter change, intercooler rings and fan resistor.

I purchased BOSCH service items, but the filter kit didn't appear to be the correct kit when changing.

Having read this post, I am happy now that I couldn't fit the small copper washer. My concern is that there was only one large O ring for the filter housing which I changed. I can only recall the existing medium seal being present on the bottom of the filter housing, not the small one.

When finished, I started the car and the oil light went out instantly. Whilst I was initially relieved, I'm now concerned.

Do you know what size and type of o ring I need for the bottom of the filter housing, and will it be possible to remove the filter with a full compliment of oil, or will it need draining again?

Thanks in advance for your help again. :bowdown:

[Arctic]

Evening Steve. Me again, cap in hand as I am very much at the bottom of the learning curve regards the diesel. :o

I have undertaken the service items I'm aware of on the latest project.

PCV filter, air filter, fuel filter, oil and filter change, intercooler rings and fan resistor.

I purchased BOSCH service items, but the filter kit didn't appear to be the correct kit when changing.

Having read this post, I am happy now that I couldn't fit the small copper washer. My concern is that there was only one large O ring for the filter housing which I changed. I can only recall the existing medium seal being present on the bottom of the filter housing, not the small one.

When finished, I started the car and the oil light went out instantly. Whilst I was initially relieved, I'm now concerned.

Do you know what size and type of o ring I need for the bottom of the filter housing, and will it be possible to remove the filter with a full compliment of oil, or will it need draining again?

Thanks in advance for your help again. :bowdown:

Hi Ben.
I don't know the size of hand but can check in the morning for you, i have a few spare so PM your address and i will drop a couple on the post for you FOC, you cannot remove the without making a mess if the oil as not been drained at least by about a litre or two.

If the car is left for a day or so and you remove the cap, you may get a little spillage so cover up the alternator and put some extra rags round the pot, i would not be to concerned though as i have seen the caps with both the lower O-rings missing when i have serviced members & local owners cars, i just added them myself.

Original O-rings are green

https://i.imgur.com/lY3PtaHl.jpg1

99% of the oil filters come with only the large O-ring & a small copper ring which is not for our cars why they add them i don't know
https://i.imgur.com/0BQgdpgl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/kK0UlCkl.jpg3

Stick rags around the pot like here below, when you remove the cap oil may leak.

https://i.imgur.com/cvG5F8Fl.jpg4

If the filter tries to cone out with the cap hold it down with a flat blade screwdriver so just the cap is removed.

[Typhoon190]

That's great Steve. Thanks for the prompt response. Really appreciated.

The Bosch filter I bought didn't have the rubber top hat seals either end, but looking through your how to, there seem to be variations in the filters available. Just hoping it works as it is supposed to. Perhaps the listing is for the BMW M47 and has just been copied for the M47R?

I took care to protect the alternator from contamination following your post here. I may wait until the next change is due to add the missing o ring if it isn't likely to affect the performance.

May main concern was that I was expecting the oil light to take a bit of time to go out while the system settled, but it went out straight away. Hopefully this is a good thing!

[COLVERT]

Surely if that were the case we would never need to change an oil filter - ever, there is a reason Royal Mail always fit an extra oil filter to their diesel trucks, it keeps the oil clean and prevents long term problems, it was a practice I adopted when running my wagons also, I would not take a chance on letting a filter get clogged, twice as often is always better than twice as long.
When I drain oil from a diesel I still want to see a glimmer of gold colour and not just jet black, this works for me.
If it has worked for you then its great, just not for me.

Still a perfect how to for anyone.

Actually I didn't say not change it I simply remarked on what happens in a filter as it ages.---:twonk:

[COLVERT]

I have a torque wrench, have changed the filter a number of times over the years, but no I never bother to use the torque wrench for this. I do it by feel, keeping in mind this is plastic and seals against an O ring. It needs to be tight, but not massively tight.

Harry. The O ring is a tight fit in the filter housing, that's what makes it seal. It is NOT compressed by tightening down the cover.

Rather like the O rings in the inter-cooler.

[COLVERT]

HI John.
If you look closely you will there is a section in the thread of the filter cap for an hook screwdriver to help remove the O-ring pictures below cheers Arctic ;)

When you screw the cap down on the filter housing the flange on the cap comes in contact with the top of the housing.
It is impossible to crush the filter because if you do you will have already ripped the flange off the cover.

You can only tighten the flange against the housing body.

The flange against the filter body does NOT provide the oil seal. The O ring inside the body does under a pre-set compression.

Tightening of the cap is such that it won't undo when subject to vibration and that is all that is necessary.

[HarryM1BYT]

Surely if that were the case we would never need to change an oil filter - ever, there is a reason Royal Mail always fit an extra oil filter to their diesel trucks, it keeps the oil clean and prevents long term problems, it was a practice I adopted when running my wagons also, I would not take a chance on letting a filter get clogged, twice as often is always better than twice as long.
When I drain oil from a diesel I still want to see a glimmer of gold colour and not just jet black, this works for me.
If it has worked for you then its great, just not for me.

Still a perfect how to for anyone.

Colvert is correct - Logically, the more clogged up a filter becomes, the more effective they become and the tinier the particles they catch out of the oil. There comes a time though, when a filter is so effective they let no oil past them at all and the filter bypass opens and lets unfiltered oil past.

So filters do need to be changed, but it is likely marginally better not to change them too frequently, though still within maintenance schedules.

I half remember one model of car had a warning light, which would light when the filter bypass operated, indicating that the oil filter was choked up.

[Mike Noc]

It is impossible to crush the filter because if you do you will have already ripped the flange off the cover.



Unfortunately not only possible Jon, but surprisingly easy to crush the filter if you don't locate it correctly. As you say, nothing to do with how much you tighten it though.There is a lip at the base of the housing, and if the filter doesn't fit around it then it will get crushed as you screw the cap down.

That is why you should always place the filter in the housing first to ensure it is properly located around the lip, and not put it into the cap and then try and fit it.











.

[Arctic]

I agree with Mike 100% also clean the pot out ;)
https://i.imgur.com/V2ViLL3l.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/UmEqvd2l.jpg2

Anyone notice something about this filter pot.
https://i.imgur.com/l1qPk0xl.jpg3

[bl52krz]

Simply put, it has still got any contamination that has been caught by the filter, left in the bottom of the oil filter container. As Artic (Steve) has said, this always needs to be soaked up and removed before a new filter is fitted. If your filter base is like this one, a piece of old towelling to clean the bottom out, and then take it between your fingers and rub fingers together, you may have a shock at any rubbish that has been collected there.

[COLVERT]

[QUOTE=Mike Noc;2859111]Unfortunately not only possible Jon, but surprisingly easy to crush the filter if you don't locate it correctly. As you say, nothing to do with how much you tighten it though.There is a lip at the base of the housing, and if the filter doesn't fit around it then it will get crushed as you screw the cap down.

That is why you should always place the filter in the housing first to ensure it is properly located around the lip, and not put it into the cap and then try and fit it.

Yes, that's true for folk who don't know what they are doing.

Same goes for other tricky bits on the car that DIY'ers can get wrong.---( Garages love them when they charge to put right the c-ck ups. )





PS.. Have you MIKE ever ruined a filter ???--No, nor have I.

Clever clogs aren't we.---:D:D:D











.

[Mike Noc]

Ha ha no I haven't Jon, but I took one out that someone else had. :D

[Typhoon190]

[QUOTE=Mike Noc;2859111]Unfortunately not only possible Jon, but surprisingly easy to crush the filter if you don't locate it correctly. As you say, nothing to do with how much you tighten it though.There is a lip at the base of the housing, and if the filter doesn't fit around it then it will get crushed as you screw the cap down.

That is why you should always place the filter in the housing first to ensure it is properly located around the lip, and not put it into the cap and then try and fit it.

Yes, that's true for folk who don't know what they are doing.

Same goes for other tricky bits on the car that DIY'ers can get wrong.---( Garages love them when they charge to put right the c-ck ups. )





PS.. Have you MIKE ever ruined a filter ???--No, nor have I.

Clever clogs aren't we.---:D:D:D











.

Thanks all. I don't know my way around the diesel engine yet. I got my first ZT in 2007 but have always had a 2.5 V6.

I did however clean the housing thoroughly, and then fit the filter first. Makes a change me getting something right. :D ;) :getmecoat:

[buchanan]

I do what majority of garages do, i use a vacuum pump to suck the oul from the sump via the dipstick tube takes very little time.

[Arctic]

I do what majority of garages do, i use a vacuum pump to suck the oul from the sump via the dipstick tube takes very little time.

Only one way for me i am afraid the original way, i can then inspect the underside of the engine at the same time, also note if there is any sludge in the oil.

https://i.imgur.com/mE1X8Xbl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/kJilzo1l.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/FyzVMwil.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/VLWjePUl.jpg4