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View Full Version : 2004 Rover 75 2.0ltr CDTI Conni Lots of gremlins


Old Gregg
16th March 2015, 16:03
Hi All,

I am new to the Forum my name is Greg I'm from Shropshire and a first time 75 owner.

Long story short I had a Golf that was going to epically fail its MOT, I was offered the 75 by my brother who got the car from a work mate and it was supposed to be a quicker cheaper fix, on trust from his work mate the car was supposed to only need a new Clutch Master Cylinder and meant to have had brakes, suspension and clutch already replaced....... it seems the was a long way off correct now i have a list of jobs as long as my arm. So im here looking for advise.

Advise required:

Clutch:
The car had no clutch, I replaced the master cylinder with the Tazu MC and copper pipe (what a lovely job that was) I now have clutch again but only about 1 - 2 inch is this correct? or do I need to replace the clutch and slave?

Speedo and ABS:
ABS light comes on when ignition is switched on and stays on and the speedo is dead, reading through the forum I see this is most likely the OS ABS Sensor....... abs sensor does not appear damaged and still attached but it covered in ****, Should I replace the ABS sensor or is likely to be damage to wiring loom?

Suspension:
The car came with new rear shocks on the back seat, the front end is knocking like nothing I have heard before, I can see the bottom arm bushes are pretty much gone drop link bushes are gone as are the anti roll bar bushes . The bit that concerns me is the front is sitting silly low (cant fit a trolly jack under the car) would new shocks resolve this along with all the other parts?

Power and Performance:
The car is very flat and appears to have a huge amount of turbo lag, is turbo lag normal on the 75? I obviously plan a full service and will also be installing a EGR bypass, Is there anything else i need to consider... EG Turbo work?

Misc:
When hitting the boot release button inside the car the boot lock goes Click Click Click Click really fast and doesn't always unlock, then when closed interior light remains on and door open light on dash stays on and few slams and lights go off, would this need a replacement lock mech?

Heated seats get hot but only for about 2mins at most then the go just about warm is this right? I have had heated seats before in a BM and they remained hot until switched off.

Fuel needle bounces up and down like its on a trampoline is this normal?

Any advise on the above or anything I have not noted that should ideally be checked would be appreciated. As you can tell from above this car is by no means in good working order and i do fully intend on getting it sorted myself.

Many thanks in advance,

Greg

suzublu
16th March 2015, 16:45
Welcome along, the boot is an easy fix, just wind out the two black stops on the boot lid a quarter turn, as for the rest, do a search on checking plenum for water, as a flooded one can cause all sorts of electrical issues. Someone will be along soon I'm sure, with answers on the tech stuff ;):D

marinabrian
17th March 2015, 07:07
Hi All,

I am new to the Forum my name is Greg I'm from Shropshire and a first time 75 owner.

Long story short I had a Golf that was going to epically fail its MOT, I was offered the 75 by my brother who got the car from a work mate and it was supposed to be a quicker cheaper fix, on trust from his work mate the car was supposed to only need a new Clutch Master Cylinder and meant to have had brakes, suspension and clutch already replaced....... it seems the was a long way off correct now i have a list of jobs as long as my arm. So im here looking for advise.

Advise required:

Clutch:
The car had no clutch, I replaced the master cylinder with the Tazu MC and copper pipe (what a lovely job that was) I now have clutch again but only about 1 - 2 inch is this correct? or do I need to replace the clutch and slave?

Speedo and ABS:
ABS light comes on when ignition is switched on and stays on and the speedo is dead, reading through the forum I see this is most likely the OS ABS Sensor....... abs sensor does not appear damaged and still attached but it covered in ****, Should I replace the ABS sensor or is likely to be damage to wiring loom?

Suspension:
The car came with new rear shocks on the back seat, the front end is knocking like nothing I have heard before, I can see the bottom arm bushes are pretty much gone drop link bushes are gone as are the anti roll bar bushes . The bit that concerns me is the front is sitting silly low (cant fit a trolly jack under the car) would new shocks resolve this along with all the other parts?

Power and Performance:
The car is very flat and appears to have a huge amount of turbo lag, is turbo lag normal on the 75? I obviously plan a full service and will also be installing a EGR bypass, Is there anything else i need to consider... EG Turbo work?

Misc:
When hitting the boot release button inside the car the boot lock goes Click Click Click Click really fast and doesn't always unlock, then when closed interior light remains on and door open light on dash stays on and few slams and lights go off, would this need a replacement lock mech?

Heated seats get hot but only for about 2mins at most then the go just about warm is this right? I have had heated seats before in a BM and they remained hot until switched off.

Fuel needle bounces up and down like its on a trampoline is this normal?

Any advise on the above or anything I have not noted that should ideally be checked would be appreciated. As you can tell from above this car is by no means in good working order and i do fully intend on getting it sorted myself.

Many thanks in advance,

Greg

Morning Greg, sounds like a typical unloved diesel to me....

I reckon this is the way to go...

Clutch, sounds like there is still air in the system, as the bite point should be half way up the pedal travel, try bleeding it again.

Suspension, with the wheels in the straight ahead position, place your foot on the tyre tread at the front and push toward the back of the car.

Any fore and aft movement within the arch will mean the lower arm rear bushes are shot.

Drop links can be checked for play better with the lower part disconnected from the anti roll bar.

As to sitting low at the front, broken spring, or wrong type of spring fitted, i.e. 1800 petrol springs on the front ;)

Lack of speedometer.....

Almost certainly related to the OS/F ABS sensor, though rarely it can be a front wheel bearing.

The ABS sensor plugs into the main car loom just inside the inner wing liner, so the main loom is unlikely to be damaged.

More common is for the ABS sensor wiring to be chaffed due to incorrect routing around the suspension leg.

Turbo lag, or symptoms like that.....

More than likely the EGR valve has become lazy in operation, ie slow to close.

This can be sorted in one of a couple of ways......

Remove and clean the EGR, or as you have suggested fit an EGR bypass ;)

The turbochargers on the diesel are very robust, and can be wrongly diagnosed as defective when the PCV filter is choked causing the crankcase to pressurise.

Misc faults.....

The fuel gauge is not normal, there are two senders in the tank, and I suspect some ham fisted mechanic has replaced the in tank pump and damaged/bent the float arm in the process.

Machine gunning boot syndrome......

Open the boot, and unscrew the rubber bump stops 1/4 of a turn each and try again ;)

Have fun, and welcome along.

Brian :D

Old Gregg
17th March 2015, 09:14
Thank you both for your replies, I will deal with the boot after work seems an easy fix.

EGR bypass is something I have ordered after reading around and seeing people with the same symptom.

Bottom arm bushes, drop links and shocks are blown to hell, I've had a good nose around in the arches and can see there is barely any bush left, lots of play in the wheel so I am ordering, shocks, springs, bottom arms with bushes, anti roll bar bushes, top mounts, drop links and track rod ends.

Will look at bleeding the system again, it was a right SOB to bleed when we did the master cylinder so may call upon a local mech to deal with it for me.

I have order new ABS sensors for both sides, all the cables are still attached and not damaged inside the arch the sensor is still attached inside the arch cover and no cables hanging or damaged but the sensor appear to have seen better days...... you can no longer tell they are meant to be blue.