How to refit air intake on diesel

[Johnny2R]

A couple of years ago I did the then-trendy thing of cutting back the air intake on my CDT, the idea being to remove what was perceived as a severe constriction caused by the very narrow intake which fits onto the slam panel. Now, though, the thinking is quite different - the air quantity via the narrow intake is seen as being quite sufficient for the diesel, and cutting it back means it is more likely that you will get oil contamination of the MAF sensor.

So, I've got hold of a replacement air intake to replace my cut-back one. I'm looking for a little bit of advice on how to secure it, though. It looks as if the two outer fixings are bolts using some kind of rubber grommet or washer, of which I only have one. The central fixing presumably requires some kind of washer as well, although that, too, is missing?

If anyone who has refitted one of these can give me some tips, I'd be grateful.

[wesley]

i did the same as you :) to put it back i used spire nuts and screws.

not the originl method but i think a much better idea.

spire nuts are like spring steel strip folded over with holes through for the screw to go into.

the spire nuts clip over the end of the intake piep and the bolts go through the metalwork holes to fasten.

this makes it easy to remove at a later time if you need to as well :)

they look like this if your not sure what i mean http://jk-uk-cdn.justkampers.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/600x/5efe8a34d5bcaff3d2fb65b505e2a616/J/1/J11172-0_3.jpg

the ones i used came with some nice matching stainless steel screws.

[COLVERT]

A couple of years ago I did the then-trendy thing of cutting back the air intake on my CDT, the idea being to remove what was perceived as a severe constriction caused by the very narrow intake which fits onto the slam panel. Now, though, the thinking is quite different - the air quantity via the narrow intake is seen as being quite sufficient for the diesel, and cutting it back means it is more likely that you will get oil contamination of the MAF sensor.

So, I've got hold of a replacement air intake to replace my cut-back one. I'm looking for a little bit of advice on how to secure it, though. It looks as if the two outer fixings are bolts using some kind of rubber grommet or washer, of which I only have one. The central fixing presumably requires some kind of washer as well, although that, too, is missing?

If anyone who has refitted one of these can give me some tips, I'd be grateful.
I think the trendy thing was to remove it so if you went through very deep water too fast the water would not be sucked in through the opening and destroy the engine.---:eek:

[albert81]

46438
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46438&d=1426890718
That's what i bought for mine.....

[Avulon]

When the slam panel bolts on mine were seized i managed to cut around them (don't ask how, I've forgotten). so now mine has three 'v' shaped notches that just locate over the original bolts/rubber bits. It stays in place no problem and is a doddle to remove as I only have the two self tapper on the manifold to undo.:D

[trikey]

When the slam panel bolts on mine were seized i managed to cut around them (don't ask how, I've forgotten). so now mine has three 'v' shaped notches that just locate over the original bolts/rubber bits. It stays in place no problem and is a doddle to remove as I only have the two self tapper on the manifold to undo.:D

I have seen a few like that, it works a treat, those bolts are stubborn little swines!

[wuzerk]

I've posted it many times before but, if you have the original rubber bushed
retainers just replace the original bolts with the standard plastic number plate
screws which will not seize up.

[Arctic]

Hi John.
Add three spires to the end of the air intake, then use self tapping bolts or screws with a bit of copper grease, two self tappers the right size to fix to the manifold job done ;) Arctic
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46449&d=1426932577
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46450&d=1426932604
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46451&d=1426932621
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46452&d=1426932677
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46453&d=1426932701


PS those that have the rubber/brass fittings get rid they are a nightmare if they rust :}

[Johnny2R]

I think I'll go with the spire clips suggestion, which looks to be a neat solution. I just need to make sure I get the right size spire clips. I'll have to drill out one of the seized bolts, first, though.

[grivas]

Hi there, one or two things to bear in mind when talking about the diesel air intake duct.
The original factory set-up was adequate for the car as left factory, however the modified remapped or chipped or tuned engine needs more air, thus the modification, cutting it back allows for more air to get in, and possibly avoids water/salts from contaminating the MAF sensor. IF the air shedder is missing, then do not cut off the original leave alone, if not and engine is tuned then you may do if what you want, you decide.

[suffolk boy]

I think I'll go with the spire clips suggestion, which looks to be a neat solution. I just need to make sure I get the right size spire clips. I'll have to drill out one of the seized bolts, first, though.
just use landrover floor pan screws and spire nuts they fit perfect
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-DEFENDER-FLOOR-PAN-SCREWS-SPIRE-NUTS-10-X-320045-302532-/261730844527?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover&hash=item3cf05fbf6f

[Arctic]

just use landrover floor pan screws and spire nuts they fit perfect
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-DEFENDER-FLOOR-PAN-SCREWS-SPIRE-NUTS-10-X-320045-302532-/261730844527?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover&hash=item3cf05fbf6f

As above or these below, they can also be used for the under tray ;) to remove the difficult bolts try gripping the rubber/brass fitting with some mole grips then undo the bolts, to save drilling

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251864193255?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Gino]

I just used standard Rover undertray fittings for the air intake, its worked fine for me.

[marinabrian]

Hi there, one or two things to bear in mind when talking about the diesel air intake duct.
The original factory set-up was adequate for the car as left factory, however the modified remapped or chipped or tuned engine needs more air, thus the modification, cutting it back allows for more air to get in, and possibly avoids water/salts from contaminating the MAF sensor. IF the air shedder is missing, then do not cut off the original leave alone, if not and engine is tuned then you may do if what you want, you decide.

Even in remapped format there is nothing whatsoever to be gained from cutting the intake ducting, as there is sufficient airflow as per standard.

What should be noted, this is a modification championed by a person with a vested interest in selling replacement MAF sensors ;)

Brian :D

P.S. if anyone wants a mutilated air intake, I am quite happy to post out the one I removed along with the common rail tuning box I removed from the new ZT I bought recently.

[arnosvale65]

The bolts on my tourer are seized but on my previous Connie CDT there was nothing clamping the air intake to the slam panel at all and it didn't seem to matter.

[T16]

Ideally you need the rubber nuts pictured in this thread.

Can be got new from rimmers, with the bolts too, remember lashings of copper grease and just nip them up.

The reason for them being rubber and flexible is evident when you see how much the intake moves around on idle.

Lots of diesel vibrations it needs something soft-ish to fix it to the slam panel.

Anything metal on metal is likely to cause a rattle, but if thats working for some people then thats all good!

[marinabrian]

Ideally you need the rubber nuts pictured in this thread.

Can be got new from rimmers, with the bolts too, remember lashings of copper grease and just nip them up.

The reason for them being rubber and flexible is evident when you see how much the intake moves around on idle.

Lots of diesel vibrations it needs something soft-ish to fix it to the slam panel.

Anything metal on metal is likely to cause a rattle, but if thats working for some people then thats all good!

Excellent point well made T16 ;)

For this exact reason, I treated myself to THESE (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110913467535?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Brian :D

[Arctic]

Ideally you need the rubber nuts pictured in this thread.

Can be got new from rimmers, with the bolts too, remember lashings of copper grease and just nip them up.

The reason for them being rubber and flexible is evident when you see how much the intake moves around on idle.

Lots of diesel vibrations it needs something soft-ish to fix it to the slam panel.

Anything metal on metal is likely to cause a rattle, but if thats working for some people then thats all good!

Excellent point well made T16 ;)

For this exact reason, I treated myself to THESE (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110913467535?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Brian :D
:D You could always use self adhesive pads on the spires as these below if you were getting any rattles from the fixings ;) that would sort it out, I used square ones here but round could also be used Arctic.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=47458&d=1428916613
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=47459&d=1428916701
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=47460&d=1428916728
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=47461&d=1428916784
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=47462&d=1428916798

[Hantsdave]

All good ideas, but how on earth do you remove the original 3 screws/bolts when they are seized in the original furrels.

I wanted to dismantle this just so I could clean up and reassemble with coppergrease. I don't want to rip out the plastic duct but short of loosening and lifting the bonnet striker plate I can't see another way in. :shrug:

Cheers

[T16]

Its very simple.

The bolts are tiny, and made of pathetic Rover cheese.

An appropriately sized drill bit to take off the heads, and the whole thing is free to service and replace the rubber bits and bolts.

I did mine in about 5 mins, I even surprised myself.

Dont bother doing it any other way, you will just mess up the slam panel with brute force or vigorous turning.

:)

Its worth the effort, I think the rubber bits are still in supply, and I used lashings of copper grease on the new ones.

Interestingly enough, you are actually supposed to tighten these so that the rubber bushes deform and form a sort of doughnut which holds the air assembly in place. As you tighten the rubber thing compresses and sort of splays out.

Its a pain in the **** idea, but at the moment I cant think of a better way they could have designed it with rubber and the ability for it to take up the vibrations and shocks from the engine. Im sure there may have been a better way though!

[Hantsdave]

Thanks T16, I had considered drilling out the screws, was really wondering if there was any other way. I agree, I prefer to have a cushion there to adsorb the engine vibes.

[rich17865]

Drilling?

Pah!

Pop the intake off the old bolts by just prying it off, the rubber slides out of the holes, relatively easily.

Then grip the remains of the brass insert with pump grips or mole grips and just undo the bolt in the regular fashion.

No damage, no drilling, no sawing, result!

I think the best solution so far has been the spire nuts with felt pads on. The original rubber joke things are available, likelihood is, they will sieze up again.

:)

[arnosvale65]

Thanks T16, I had considered drilling out the screws, was really wondering if there was any other way. I agree, I prefer to have a cushion there to adsorb the engine vibes.

If everyone had bought similar cars to you Dave we would still have a motor industry. By the same token if we had had management like the Germans ditto.:D