Oh dear, first signs of corrosion on sill

[Mangizmo]

Have spotted some corrosion (bubbling) passenger side sill (very early 75 diesel 53 plate)
Whats the remedy?, can the sills be replaced? V

[Doc Evil]

Hi
yes the sill can be replaced but it's alot of work, better to cut out damage and plate it grind off bit of filler repaint and you will never know
Don't forget to wax oil the inside as this is where the rust has come from

Doc

[hinged_bap]

I had this last year. See this thread I posted at the time:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=179624

[Paulifa1]

I've got a similar problem on both my sills, only very localised pinholing thankfully on investigation.

You certainly won't need to replace the sills, just a good quality localised repair will be fine. Don't be tempted to let any old local back street garage patch over it though, that won't last. Find a good body restoration place and get it cut out cleanly and new sections grafted in properly, skim of filler, re-paint and wax injection and you'll be good to go :D

[Doc Evil]

When I said plate it I was referring to a properly cut and seam welded inset patch not one welded over the top

DOC

[DMGRS]

Just noticed this on my otherwise very clean ZT-T too - damn!
I'll hang on 'til summer, as I was planning to undercoat everything then anyway. :)

[Doc Evil]

Just noticed this on my otherwise very clean ZT-T too - damn!
I'll hang on 'til summer, as I was planning to undercoat everything then anyway. :)

I suspect that there are plenty of other people with same if they look Mat:eek::getmecoat:

Doc

[andy willi]

mine has gone on the ztt will be cutting it out and replacing it soon just bought a tig welder to do the job .once i have done it i will hire the tig welder out to anyone who needs it to do there own repair just hang on until i set it up



andy

[Paulifa1]

@ Andy

I might take you up on that Andy, might need a 10 minute tutorial on technique though!, due to my brother being a welder, I never got round to learning MIG/TIG welding technique, although I was competent in Oxy Acetylene and arc from years ago, so sure it can't be too difficult.

It seems to just be just the rear foot or so at the bottom. Some seem to suffer around the rear jacking points. Mine is perforation on the lower outer skin at the rear 9". Mine seems to have been caused by getting full of what I can only describe as damp soil in this area!! I think this has built up from road spray in winter over the years, due to bad seam sealing at the bottom of the rear arch to sill joints, under the wheel arch liners.

You'll find removable plugs for inspection & rustproofing access at the lower front of the rear arches, once you've removed the liners.