Face-lift fuel pump relay location?

[Salad-Dodger]

Am I correct in thinking that the fuel pump relay location on a 190 facelift is located at the passenger side foot well and marked as R4?
I need to pull it out later this week to prime the oil pressure before I start it.
Also, after finding that rubber thing inside the clutch master cylinder, is it ok to throw it away? I have replaced it with a cap seal but I was thinking it may be there to stop the "washing" that occurs in operation.
Steve

[Mike Noc]

The cap has a vent hole in it and the system shouldn't be completely sealed up. The idea of the rubber diaphragm is to allow for the level to rise and fall as the clutch is operated and at the same time prevent air coming into direct contact with the clutch fluid.

[T-Cut]

Am I correct in thinking that the fuel pump relay location on a 190 facelift is located at the passenger side foot well and marked as R4?

No, it's R3. Here's a diagram.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/waveguide/Fuses_Stuff/Later_FuseBoard_zpsf935179e.jpg


I need to pull it out later this week to prime the oil pressure before I start it.Sounds interesting, what have you been working on?

Also, after finding that rubber thing inside the clutch master cylinder, is it ok to throw it away?Doing so will increase the fluid capacity by 25-30% so a good idea IMO. The venting will then be the same as the brake master, so you could argue that a clutch fluid change when the brakes are done would be wise. A rubber washer under the cap will minimise surge leakage and reducing the fluid level slightly will do the same for the vent.

TC

[Salad-Dodger]

Many thanks for all that TC. I did a bit of research but still wasn't sure as its a face lift and not the same as a Mk1.

Good call on the res sock. Just about every other car I've seen in 40 odd years of car servicing, I've not seen one of those! Some have a double skinned lid to prevent any surge leakage or maybe have a float switch to let you know when the level drops, but no rubber sock! All these safety gadgets are for brakes really rather than a clutch system.

As you have guessed, I've been a bit busy. If you look back through some of my other posts you will know that I bought this 55 190 last February with what sounded like a top end rattle. I tried a few of the usual things but it wasn't going away at all.
It was when I did the last oil change that that I could see things were obviously not good. When I do an oil change I usually pour the oil out of the filter into a tray and have a look at it under a good light. The oil from the filter had a lot of metal in it and it had only been in there a month.

So I sourced another engine and that's what I've been doing for the last couple of weeks really. My workshop is full with a split screen camper project so I've had to do it on the drive in front of the garage. Not ideal but out it came.
I've thrown the plate oil cooler which was blocked on the water side and replaced it with a proper cooler with a stat and mounted it behind the water rad. I primed it with oil before start up and did the same to the new filter. Also replaced that resistor for the engine fan.
All working good now apart from a small leak from the exhaust cam oil seal on the left-hand bank. I'll do that when a new seal arrives and hopefully I can get to drive it! Its been a bit bumpy driving our MGF to work!

The other unit is on an engine stand and I'll be taking that apart soon to see exactly what the problems were but I'm guessing that a lot of poor servicing was probably the cause. I may post a few pics of the damage as well. Steve

[marinabrian]

Steve, just before you drop the old oil, pull R3 start the engibe and allow the car to "run out of fuel" first.

Otherwise it will start on what is in the line ;)

Also make sure you fill the new filter before fitting, sorry if I'm teaching my granny to suck eggs here.

Brian :D

[Salad-Dodger]

Many thanks for that Brian, but I've had the whole unit out and I've fitted another so no fuel in the fuel rails at all.
What I was doing was turning the engine over on the starter without it firing up to prime the oil up into the engine. So I needed to know for sure which relay to pull, otherwise I may have selected the wrong relay.
I also replaced the "O" ring at the top of the oil pickup pipe in the sump and indeed, primed the new filter.
Also did a lot more work on this unit but that's for another day! Steve

[T-Cut]

Also make sure you fill the new filter before fitting - - -

I've always done that historically, but the 1.8 filter is on its side, so I put a bit in and screw it on quick. I reckon the residual oil in the shells will cope with the first startup, it has to I guess. Making the mounting vertical would have been easy enough so I assume it can't be essential. Logic says otherwise of course.

TC

[Mike Noc]

You'd be pleasantly surprised TC. :D

Had an LT 35 diesel horsebox that struggled to pick up oil from cold and the oil light would regularly stay on for a few minutes.

It idled for over 15 minutes one day with no oil pressure at all - then I got to the bottom of the problem.

But all the bearings and shells were fine.

Didn't have a turbo though - that's why it was called The Big Slow. :getmecoat:

[Salad-Dodger]

Well I've started it up and all has been fine for a couple of days and it sounds quite good. Then the engine light came on as they do.
The codes are 137 low volts bank1, sens2. 300 random misfire and 330 knock sensor circuit malfunction bank2.
The temperature climbs to 100 deg and the fan comes on. It then cools to 94 deg and the fan goes off. I fitted a new resistor while it was all apart.
The first code is a lambda fault that I can cope with but the misfire (multiple cylinders) I have never seen. It may be that some rain has got into the ecu area. Also, the last one is a new one for me. May try another sensor and see what happens. Any input..very welcome! Steve

[marinabrian]

Well I've started it up and all has been fine for a couple of days and it sounds quite good. Then the engine light came on as they do.
The codes are 137 low volts bank1, sens2. 300 random misfire and 330 knock sensor circuit malfunction bank2.
The temperature climbs to 100 deg and the fan comes on. It then cools to 94 deg and the fan goes off. I fitted a new resistor while it was all apart.
The first code is a lambda fault that I can cope with but the misfire (multiple cylinders) I have never seen. It may be that some rain has got into the ecu area. Also, the last one is a new one for me. May try another sensor and see what happens. Any input..very welcome! Steve

The ECU will be ok Steve, the EMS 2000 is very well sealed ;)

Brian :D

[Salad-Dodger]

Putting a bit of logic on this, if the knock sensor is not working and the ecu doesn't get the correct information, that could maybe cause the multi misfire which would trigger a code on one of the lambdas? Steve

[Salad-Dodger]

The ECU will be ok Steve, the EMS 2000 is very well sealed ;)

Brian :D

Thanks for that Brian. I was just topping the thread up when you replied! Steve