Radiator fan not turning

[lionatus]

I have no idea when or how long its not been working but when checking the car after a 900 mile round trip down South I noticed the radiator fan isn't turning. Ive had the aircon on, vent fans on/off doesn't change anything. Its been on auto and any other setting I could think of but no dice, the fan doesn't spin. Any ideas?

[roverbarmy]

Either a knackered resistor or fan motor. Front bumper off to check! :duh:

[lionatus]

How do I know which is gone, its the silver resistor that's fitted and have noticed gold ones on ebay. Any ideas on how to test each to see which may be at fault?

[Arctic]

How do I know which is gone, its the silver resistor that's fitted and have noticed gold ones on ebay. Any ideas on how to test each to see which may be at fault?


Hi Alan.
First port of call for your Gold resistor is Jules a trader on here, then change the silver one over for the gold one, in the mean time try the trinary switch test to see if medium/high speed is working click the link below.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=305987&postcount=1

[lionatus]

Hi Alan.
First port of call for your Gold resistor is Jules a trader on here, then change the silver one over for the gold one, in the mean time try the trinary switch test to see if medium/high speed is working click the link below.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=305987&postcount=1

Ok the stuff Jules has added was great. Did the trinary test and heard the fan motor working very hard but the fan blades weren't turning? any ideas?

[SD1too]

Your fan blades have become detached from the motor spindle. It's a bayonet-style fitting. You'll need to remove the bumper etc. to fix this. I think some have used self-tapping screws to prevent a recurrence; a forum search might reveal some helpful tips. :}

Simon

[werdna232002]

if it turns out to be the resistor being faulty, pm me as i have spare ones.

[lionatus]

Was hoping I could just detach grill but bumper has to come off. How was is that to do. Having to do in a parking bay outside hospital.

[T-Cut]

How was is that to do.

Eh?
This video shows how easy it is. Mk1 bumper removal is identical.

HowTo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BUGH4_VMkU

To reattach the fan, you'll need a thin walled 15mm socket to steady the motor drive flange. Without that you'll not get very far. It will become more obvious when you try.

TC

[Arctic]

Halfords thin walled 15mm socket to steady the motor drive flange, while you re-attach it once attached you could then drill a small hole using a 3mm al drill and insert a grub screw.

The fan is turned Anticlockwise to re-attach Arctic ;)

http://i59.tinypic.com/6534n8.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/fro01.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2zipiiq.jpg

[lionatus]

Well got bumper off but before I took crash guard off I had a go. Its wedged on, meaning I couldn't tighten it any further, couldn't get it to come off either. Low speed not working but sounds like an aircraft taking off when using the tri-test. Fans spinning merrily so gold resistor it is, and bumper off again. I'm guessing it'll detach again as I didn't see the full metal slide as in Arctic's pics, but I can fix that when the resistor gets changed as I seem to have an all in one bumper.

Worryingly I assumed I'd get away without the battery being uncoupled and you should have seen the sparks fly when the socket slipped. Or does that mean I have an earthing issue with the motor?

[T-Cut]

Worryingly I assumed I'd get away without the battery being uncoupled and you should have seen the sparks fly when the socket slipped. Or does that mean I have an earthing issue with the motor?
The fan supply is permanently live. The system switching provides the earth return. Messing with the fan electrics needs the power off. Either disconnect the battery or remove the fan supply fuse. It's the 80amp link in the under bonnet fusebox.

TC

[lionatus]

Hi Alan.
First port of call for your Gold resistor is Jules a trader on here, then change the silver one over for the gold one, in the mean time try the trinary switch test to see if medium/high speed is working click the link below.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=305987&postcount=1

After managing to get on I think its come off again. What size of screw can I get away with to stop this? Additionally how do I remove the crash bar for more room. I really only want to be doing this once more, properly this time.

[Arctic]

After managing to get on I think its come off again. What size of screw can I get away with to stop this? Additionally how do I remove the crash bar for more room. I really only want to be doing this once more, properly this time.

Ok Alan.
here you go click the link below and it should help you with the above ;) Arctic

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=216734

[lionatus]

Superb and many thanks. I left it on as I saw the nut and didn't know if it meant dismantling something else so left bar on. Have contacted Jules as id prefer the resistor before I refix in Wednesday. Sons going back to Salisbury so that's nearly 1000 in a day.

[lionatus]

Ok Alan.
here you go click the link below and it should help you with the above ;) Arctic

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=216734

More help needed guys please. Ok couldn't get crashbar off. Snapped all but one of my sockets that fitted and 2 reducers. So am down to 1 10mm and 1 13mm as I didn't want to risk them. Managed to get gold resistor from Jules on and working low speed is active again. Got blades back on but due to crashbar couldn't get screws in.

Blades have come off again. Lasted maybe half a day. Good news I've done it so many times now with crashbar in way its an easy job. If I pre-drilled pilot holes at an angle what size screws could I get away with? Where on the blade unit would I place then and how far in can I go with them before they interfere with the rotation?

Cheers guys for all the help so far.

[Arctic]

More help needed guys please. Ok couldn't get crashbar off. Snapped all but one of my sockets that fitted and 2 reducers. So am down to 1 10mm and 1 13mm as I didn't want to risk them. Managed to get gold resistor from Jules on and working low speed is active again. Got blades back on but due to crashbar couldn't get screws in.

Blades have come off again. Lasted maybe half a day. Good news I've done it so many times now with crashbar in way its an easy job. If I pre-drilled pilot holes at an angle what size screws could I get away with? Where on the blade unit would I place then and how far in can I go with them before they interfere with the rotation?

Cheers guys for all the help so far.

I would try an impact socket then drill the holes 3mm and use a 8mm in length self taper you can go for one two or even three holes if you like but drill slowly and carefully unlike me and off centre a bit due to bad light and not wearing my glasses :duh:, one I not so long ago tonight after I picked back up on your thread, hopefully not to late Arctic ;)

[lionatus]

Hehe I couldn't see those pics on my mobile and bodged a screw through the plastic. Seems to have wedged on the blades along with some superglue gel to make sure it doesn't move. I couldn't have done that anyway as I still cant get the crash bar off; instead working at an extreme angle that took ages including dropped screws bits and screwdriver slips. Still after 1000 miles its still on at last. Now onto the next job that needs doing. Many thanks for the help once I get the crashbar off as I need to repaint my bumper at some point i'll refix as per your instruction.