New member with Rover 75 and new problems :)

[Oxygen]

Hi all. First of all- sorry for my English, it's little weak.
So, bought R75 2.0 V6 from Germany with 60.000km (37.000mil). Car was advertised as defective. Automatic transmission needs replacement.
First, after 6 years of parking i replaced engine oil, thermostat with two pipes and coolant as well. So, today i tested car.
My impressions: first time there was only first gear. I tried drive up to 4000 revs, but there was no swithing to next gears. Next start- gears was swithed to 2, 3, but then back to 2 (should be still 3). Reverse is working.
I found service records. Before failure, 6 years ago transmission fluid was replaced, because original was "strange color". Service man to old owner said that there was emulsion with water. After gearbox started this erroneous gears swithing, service man said that probably rust in transmission blocks solenoids. After that owner was parked car for 6 years. But i found- he is replaced original transmission fluid with Honda Z1 fluid. I searched net, seems that it is compatible with Jatco.
So, how i can start investigate this problem?
Next problem- SRS light on dashboard (found still new sealed SRS control unit in the trunk), locking/unlocking from keys nor working, mirrors control with keys from inside not working as well.

Ah forgot. Checked plugs- all is like new, but i feel small vibration at 1000-1500 revs. No smell of unburned petrol from exhaust, so all plugs working.

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/75.png

[jonc3725]

Hi Bud and welcome.

Your English is fine by the way.

This is what I would do:-

1. Gearbox- change it for a decent second hand unit. Seems to be too much bad history. I am not sure what the spares availability is like in Lithuania but auto gearboxes can be picked up for £150-200 over here. Some one with a better knowledge of the Jatco box may have a different opinion:shrug:

2. SRS- This is a known R75 mk1 isssue and is normally caused by the connections under the seats (One blue and one yellow). They need to be disconnected, cleaned out and reconnected but will probably cause a problem again so I would change them. I have just changed mine and here is the threadhttp://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=216283&page=4

3. Slight engine vibration- Check you lower engine mount as they tend to fail.

4. Remote locking not working from keys- Have you changed the batteries in the keys? Does the central locking work when the keys are put into the lock and turned and from the lock/unlock switch in the car?

5. Mirror adjustment buttons not working- these units can be stripped and cleaned as dirt and dust gets into them. If this does work there are plenty of spares out there.

Whilst you are fiddiling with you V6 check the following:-

1. Plenum drains and mod http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=125864&highlight=plenum+drains

2. Signs of coolant leaking from the thermostat in the V of the engine
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=210143&highlight=thermostat+leaking

3. Check your cooling fan is working correctly
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=197874&highlight=cooling+fan+testing

4. When running the engine check for rattles inside the plastic air inlet manifold
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=219632&highlight=manifold+rattle

5. Check you vis motors (Although with an auto not as much of a problem)
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=185774&highlight=vis+motor+testing


There is plenty of help on here and it is a very friendly:D place to be

[Oxygen]

Thanks Jon for Your answer.
My plan is: drain fluid, check it for "rust", then remove Jatco front sump to check solenoid unit. If i will find rust there- of course i will replace gearbox. If there will be all clean- then i will measure resistance of solenoids and sensors as i found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A

[jonc3725]

Good luck with the gearbox checks lets hope its just solenoids

Keep us updated on progress as knowing the outcome is as important asking the questions. :D:D

[wuzerk]

Thanks Jon for Your answer.
My plan is: drain fluid, check it for "rust", then remove Jatco front sump to check solenoid unit. If i will find rust there- of course i will replace gearbox. If there will be all clean- then i will measure resistance of solenoids and sensors as i found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
I suggest that you measure how much fluid comes out when you drain the Jatco
box. it should be around 3.6 litres. This is only part of the amount which the box holds (8 litres)but is the only amount which will drain. When checking later for
the level DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING ON THE SIDES OF THE BOX. THE LEVEL PLUG IS on the BOTTOM (usually a 5mm Allen key). If you undo the wrong
bolt on the side of the box you will lose reverse gear.

[Oxygen]

Today checked lower engine mount- it's like new.
Still exists slight vibration. Interesting, another KV6 engines in club don't have any noticeable vibration up to 1500 revs?

[Jules]

Maybe sticky/dirty injector if engine has not run for 6 years or weak spark on one of coils.

[Oxygen]

Thanks guys. I think i will replace all plugs anyway then check again. This week i will start transmission investigation. OMG, i'm scared.

[bl52krz]

No need to be scared. do everything in methodical order, if you need, you can write down where everything comes from when you take something off, or do something else. reassemble in reverse order.

[Jules]

Take lots photos then you can't go wrong !!

[Oxygen]

I noticed one more problem- can't lock/unlock remotely with key fob. Tried everything: key battery change, disconnecting 12V battery for long time (day) for full reset- no effect. Tried press lock and unlock 4 times- no effect as well. Still can lock/ unlock car normally with key. Central locking system is working.

[Oxygen]

Solved remote key fob problem. Removed handbrake gaiter, disconnected old RF module, connected new, updated (old- YWY100440, new- YWY000080). Tested- works! Seems that old was damaged by water.
Then i started procedure of central console removing. And..... new problem. Passenger electric seat (car is left hand) stalled at rear end position. Seat can move only backward. I measured veltage before seat motor. So, when i press button back- there one wire have +12V. When i press forward- zero on one and another (there is two wires). So, probably switch? Who knows how i can replace this switch?
Thanks.

[350zwelgje]

To be able to replace the switch, you need to take the seat out of the car.
Have sort of the same problem, but it is the backrest that cannot be moved any more....

Rob

[Oxygen]

cannot remove seat in this position, it's in maximal back position, to rear seat bolts are covered. What if i will try to connect reverse voltage to motor?

[chrissyboy]

as car has stood still for six years i would get the engine nice and hot and drain the oil change the filter and and i would put in the tank an injector cleaner .belts will need doing too. use a probe to supply a live to the wire that has lost its live so you can then be able to remove the seat .i would look on here for the procudure of how to change the gearbox fluid ,it may have been done wrong ,sounds like it is trying to work to me .

[Oxygen]

Of course engine oil is new! It's Castrol 5w40 Magnatec. Thermostat, coolant as well! Will replace belts little later. Now i want sort ou all interior things.

[chrissyboy]

Of course engine oil is new! It's Castrol 5w40 Magnatec. Thermostat, coolant as well! Will replace belts little later. Now i want sort ou all interior things.

40 is too thick 5w30 is the one you should go with

[chrissyboy]

Of course engine oil is new! It's Castrol 5w40 Magnatec. Thermostat, coolant as well! Will replace belts little later. Now i want sort ou all interior things.

40 is too thick 5w30 is the one you should go with , i would of put a cheap oil in it and flushed that afer a few days before filling up with a 5w30

[Oxygen]

In my garage i have Castrol Edge 0w30, because my wife have bmw with valvetronic engine, but i found that KV6 is designed for 10w40, so fully synthetic 5w40 should be good.

[DMGRS]

Good luck with the work - if your 2/4 Brake Duty Solenoid turns out to be the problem, we have them here: 2/4 Brake Duty Solenoid - 75/ZT Automatic (http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/clutch-transmission-parts/products/r75-zt-2-4-brake-duty-solenoid-automatic-transmission-jf506e)

We also have lots of parts for our cars, and post worldwide. :)

[Oxygen]

Cool! Thx!

[Oxygen]

Guys, who is XPart distributor here :)? i need one!

[Oxygen]

...Problem again- don't have code for original Philips Harmony radio.

[Oxygen]

Guys, is there a chance to find out security code from vin or radio serial number?

[SD1too]

... i found that KV6 is designed for 10w40 ..
You are correct.
My plan is: drain fluid, check it for "rust", then remove Jatco front sump to check solenoid unit. If i will find rust there- of course i will replace gearbox. If there will be all clean- then i will measure resistance of solenoids and sensors ..
That's a good plan. I would be extremely surprised if rust is present. I cannot think how coolant can mix with transmission fluid in a V6 engine. :shrug: In any case, I would strongly advise you not to mess about with used, unguaranteed gearboxes. You could easily be buying more trouble rather than curing a fault. ;)

Here (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1138687&postcount=23) is my list of ATF compatible with the Jatco transmission. Please post the data you've found for the Honda fluid as we're always looking for more additions.
Guys, who is XPart distributor here :)? i need one!
Send a PM to forum member XPart02 (Stu) who works for them and will be able to help you. Or telephone them on + 44 1455 825 800.

Simon

[Oxygen]

Thanks Simon. Your thread with N402 fluid repcacements is very, very helpful.

[AndreasGr]

Thanks Simon. Your thread with N402 fluid repcacements is very, very helpful.

Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid can
work fine too :)

[SD1too]

Thank you, but it's an American brand and I haven't found a UK supplier. If it's available in your country then go for it! :}

Simon

[Oxygen]

Febi 29934.
It's replacement for VWG055025A2 fluid, used in VW09a automatic transmission. It's the same Jatco 506.

[DMGRS]

I'm an XPart distributor, for anyone else needing one - I've already spoken to Oxygen. :)

[SD1too]

Febi 29934.
It's replacement for VWG055025A2 fluid, used in VW09a automatic transmission. It's the same Jatco 506.
That one isn't listed as meeting Texaco N402 specification. I'm only including fluids on my list which do, because that's what MG Rover specifies.
Thanks for the suggestion though.

Simon

[Oxygen]

Now i'm trying to find out why SRS light is on. I soldered new 4 contacts connectors under passenger seat, similar to:
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=145087
but 4- in line.
Today unscrewed driver seat. Here and there under seats i see rust. Memory unit is replaced, car is 2001, unit- 2004. Seems that water was inside. Maybe in carpet level. I don't like wiring harness under driver seat, and want to replace.
Where is problematic SRS places except seats connectors?
One more question. My car is LHD, driver seat electric with memory. I checked yellow label on harness and found harness part number-YML100321. Can someone check harness part number on RHD electric with momory seat on RHD car?

[Oxygen]

Guys, i bought new main belt (contitech), tensioner (ina), idler (ina), alternator belt (contitech), water pump (hepu). Today removed belt cover, what i found: belt was replaced, water pump was replaced, tensioner and idler as well. Al jobs was done in 2008, then car was parked for 6 years. I know that after 6 years belt must be replaced, of course i will do it, but should i replace water pump too? Installed is OEM Land Rover, manufactured in 2005, installed in 2008 together with tensioners and belt.

[SD1too]

... belt was replaced, water pump was replaced, tensioner and idler as well. Al jobs was done in 2008, then car was parked for 6 years. I know that after 6 years belt must be replaced ...
A few others will disagree but I say you'll be wasting your time and money. It's mileage which wears out components not the passage of time, and there is plenty of evidence available to support this. For example, look at Best_of_British's thread describing the excellent condition of a cambelt over twice the age of yours. The 6 year period reflects the recommended 90,000 mile belt replacement schedule divided by MG Rover's chosen "average" mileage of 15,000 per annum. It's as simple and unscientific as that! ;)
... should i replace water pump too?
No.

Simon

[Jules]

Agree with Simon

Water pump fitted is new and a good brand so leave alone.
Belts will be fine too if no mileage done.
Check them for perishing but I doubt you will spot any.

Why did they do all that work and then take it off the road I wonder ?

[Oxygen]

Due to the problem with automatic gearbox, then new kid in family etc.
BTW, i attached couple of pictures: belt have 2000 km and 6 years.
Belt brand is DAYCO.


http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/belt1.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/belt2.jpg

[Oxygen]

I replaced belt. Pump, tensioner, idle pulley was in good condition.
Now want to sort out problem with the lost radio code. There is a chance to find it for free? If not- probably i will upgrade radio maybe to Navall 3. I love stock parts, but really feeling that 20GBP for code is too much.

[Oxygen]

Hi guys!
So, as i wrote before, i have problem, my SRS light is constantly on.
I soldered new seats connectors, old was good too.
Replaced SRS ECU with new.
Today i replaced sensors, photo of old sensors- attached.
After this work i connected battery, turned on ignition, and... still on.
SRS fuse is good.
What i should check next :)? x-files..

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs.jpg

[Jules]

You really need to interogate the SRS as it's a guessing game otherwise!

The new ECU may need configuring via T4.
The other fault area maybe steering column ribbon cable :shrug:

[Oxygen]

Oh, it may be interesting. SRS ECU really needs to be configured with T4?
Tomorow we will connect diagnostic unit. Not T4, but maybe we will see something.

[Jules]

Try another used ECU as they often work straight away if you have no access to T4

[Oxygen]

One more question. This operations can do only T4 system? Because in Lithuania we don't have any T4 at all...

[Jules]

Many other OBD diagnostics will talk to the SRS system and give a fault diagnosis
eg. We use LAUNCH 90% of the time as it's 10 times quicker than my T4

A very few other brands will be able to configure some of the modules

[Oxygen]

maybe you know what non- t4 diagnostic computer will display if SRS ECU needs configuration?
I found Launch systems here. And now want to know if new SRS ECU can be configured with him.

[Oxygen]

Hi. OK, my new installed SRS ECU in not configured with T4, SRS light is on. Today i connected diagnostic pc to the car.

Errors:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/tb.jpg

b1044
b1048
905220
916200

Then i replaced new SRS ECU with old, but light still on... Later will check errors.

And, i found one Testbook in my country:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/tb1.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/tb2.jpg

It's possible with this equipment to configure SRS ECU, change dashboard language, display automatic gearbox errors?

Another dealer have Launch x431, maybe it is compatible and can configure as well?

And one more question. Can SRS ECU "forget" configuration after years of parking?

Thanks.

[Jules]

SRS ECU has non volatile memory so storage time won't matter.

If you cannot configure new SRS module send your old one to me or Marinabrian and we'll test it for you?

The Launch X431 will do certain programming but I've not tried it that way as I use the T4 for config work


Jules

[Oxygen]

OK guys, i will repeat my history:
I got R75 with 60k km on the clock (about 37k mls).
Old owner had problem with water inside, so SRS light is on. He tested car somewhere, and service workers told to him that problem is with SRS ECU. So old owner ordered this part from Rimmer Bros ( http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YWJ101590 ) and sold it to me together with car. I removed central panel, found that SRS ECU with little signs of water. Removed and installed new, but light still on. I checked sensors- as well have signs of water! Ordered two new from Rimmer Bros. Installed- still no effect :) BTW all seats connectors is resoldered with new.
About sensors codes:
I ordered two: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YWJ101340 - at the boxes i see YWJ101340, but inside is just new YDB100310 sensors.

Today i removed new SRS ECU, and installed anpother used one, from Rover 75, in good condition. And... No more SRS light!

Now some photos:

RF, damaged with water.
http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/rf1.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/rf2.JPG

SRS ECU. Nice piece of electronic, but.. damaged with water as well. Sensors as well.

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs1.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs2.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs3.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs4.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs5.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs7.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs8.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs9.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/srs10.JPG

[Oxygen]

Now i'm little nervous. Couple weeks ago i replaced timing belt, i wrote before about it. Tensioner and idler was as new and not touched. Just removed hidraulic lifter, compressed, put back and removed pin. Without tensioner tension ajusting... Now i found that i should add more tension up to level when i can remove pin with my fingers.
Probably now i should disassemble all covers again, loose tensioner bolt and add more tension up to level when i can put pin again to lifter and fix bolt in than position?

[Oxygen]

Next task- transmission...

[Oxygen]

Hi guys, i was started another thread about my problems with transmission, but i'm back. Sorry for not perfect English.
So, my situation is that i bought R75 with low mileage and defective transmission. In papers i found that transmission fluid was replaced with Honda Z1 fluid. Now i replaced all oil in the box with Valvoline MaxLive ATF, Texaco N402 compatible. Today i did MOT test, got number plates and tested car on normal road.
Route was: 10km on highway, then 5km of city driving. On highway all was nice. But when i reached city, there was jam. After this jam i pressed accelerator and... no more next gear. I noticed revs about 4500 and then gearbox went to limp mode. Seems that this transmission don't likes high temperature.
Couple of weeks ago i tried another gearbox ECU with no effect.
Now i don't know what to do.

[Jules]

If it's a pre 2002 Jatco it probably has a cracked reverse piston.
They come as an upgraded repair kit with new seals etc from

http://www.sussexautos.co.uk/jatco.php

Later Jatco units came fitted with an uprated piston which has a thicker base to it.
Symptoms usually start with slipping once up to 4th gear.
Continued use can end up with loss of all gears.

[Oxygen]

Yes, this rover is 2001.
Yesterday at parking i tested without number plates, so i noticed that 3 or 4 gear was missing.
Interesting, but today when i come back with limp mode, swithed car off, then again on after couple of minutes, limp mode gone, but when i switched to D mode- there was no movement! Then i switch back to P and again D- car started to move. Reverse is working.
Thanks for supplier address. I can remove side gearbox cover without gearbox removal?

[Jules]

Do not use the car until reverse piston mod has been done with new frictions and steels.
A few howto's written on here

Maybe get Jatco interrogated with T4 to see if any solenoid faults ?

All pre 2002/3 Jatco owners should get the reverse piston upgrade carried out before it cracks (they all do eventually!!)

We've stocked them in the workshop for a while now and use them regularly ;)

[Oxygen]

I tested resistance of all solenoids and sensors- all within range.
About repair- probably first i need to remove side cover and inspect parts before order?

[Oxygen]

Hello guys, i removed side cover, so photos:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/1.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/2.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/3.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/4.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/5.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/6.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/7.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/8.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/9.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/10.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/11.JPG

What i found:
http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/12.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/13.JPG

I have problem with separating these parts, they just stuck together, will try to separate later:
http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/14.JPG

[Oxygen]

Finally separated! Was very hard, O- rings are in bad condition. Piston- without cracks.

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/15.jpg

[SD1too]

O- rings are in bad condition. Piston- without cracks.
Excellent work! :D If you only have to renew the 'O' rings, this could be the cheapest automatic gearbox repair to date!

Simon

[Jules]

Finally separated! Was very hard, O- rings are in bad condition. Piston- without cracks.

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/15.jpg


Are you quite sure??
The crack isn't visible sometimes.
I put black printer toner powder over the piston or dirty engine oil will show it up.

Your box looks like it's been dismantled before and seals refitted without a lubricant.
I've not seen seals that bad before they almost look melted :shrug:

The uprated piston has a slightly different appearance.
Comparison below

Do not refit the piston if it is a non uprated type as it will crack at some point before 100k miles.

If I find the old piston type regardless of condition I change it out as a matter of course


Method of circlip removal
Leave the frictions in place so G clamps have a platform to lean on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_PIssACe0EU/ViaXxmyOvlI/AAAAAAAATjQ/W4kNIeVUPso/s512-Ic42/20150224_134910.jpg


Old standard piston

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lytXouw9jQg/ViaYnUQ2-QI/AAAAAAAATjo/vNcU__ZSs0Q/s640-Ic42/20150224_122541.jpg


New uprated piston
The base is about 1mm thicker which cured the problem of cracking

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BBKWYnDEixQ/ViaYgusAZHI/AAAAAAAATjg/3O6Tep6-Q-k/s640-Ic42/20150224_122531.jpg



Uprated on left .........old on right

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t7eoZfMdf6Y/ViaYaNJYrVI/AAAAAAAATjY/4yMhmZ4EYUA/s640-Ic42/20150224_122507.jpg


By the way your split piece of rubber on the steel cup which is held in by the circlip is not in kit !!
It is not a pressure seal anyway but worth asking suppliers for this separatley

[Jules]

This seal in your photo below is not in the kit.

I've not seen one of those damaged before.
Possibly done by someone trying to get the circlip off incorrectly :shrug:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/13.JPG

[Oxygen]

Thanks guys. Tomorrow i will make good quality photos of piston and seals.

[Oxygen]

Jules, circlip was untouched before. Thanks for removal method, i will use it when will assemble again. Because now i damaged that circlip:)

[Jules]

Take a photo of the inside of the piston similar to mine and we'll try and identify if it's uprated type or not ;)

[Oxygen]

Yes of course. I was scared if all seals can be damaged, and checked big seals on side cover- thanks to God- like new.

[Jules]

One favour to ask of you data gurus (Simon or T-cut etc)

Can anyone identify by Jatco serial no. or 75 chassis no etc when the uprated piston was introduced.

I can only pin it down to between 02 - 03 :shrug:


Cheers boys

It is now definitely


http://www.beeroclock.ca/images/beeroclock-logo.png

[Oxygen]

My 75 is 2001, so should have old piston. One question. Should piston and smaller inner part with two seals have little movement? My was stuck completely, can it be source of problem?

:)

http://www.octaviatea.com/product_images/j/english_breakfast_organic_black_tea_tin__55080.jpg

[Jules]

It will appear "stuck" to lift out by hand.

That is just static friction of the seals gripping the alloy.
Your seals look melted or chemically attacked ??

All the seals I've removed come out as if new.

Be assured the oil PSI produced by the jatco box will have no problem shifting the pistons and plates in & out :cool:

[Oxygen]

O- rings look not melted, not chemically attacked as well, just like after friction

[SD1too]

One favour to ask of you data gurus (Simon or T-cut etc)
Can anyone identify by Jatco serial no. or 75 chassis no etc when the uprated piston was introduced.
Thanks for asking Jules. I've looked in my ATSG overhaul manual which has drawings of the "1st design" and "2nd design" but no gearbox number is given.

The two can apparently be identified by looking at the "piston stops" and the chamfer at the smaller diameter end.

The "piston stops" are the raised arcs, two and a half of which are visible in Oxygen's photograph:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/15.jpg
The chamfer is on the same plane as the piston stops.

Unfortunately you can only be certain which design you have if you have both to compare. ATSG describes the differences as:

1st design, do not use: piston stops higher and small chamfer.
2nd design: piston stops shorter and large chamfer.

Not really very helpful is it. :o If I was to guess by looking at the drawings in the manual, I'd venture that Oxygen has the later, 2nd design.

Simon

[Lancpudn]

Oxygen this is a great thread read & I wish you every luck in getting it running great again. It's fantastic to see the knowledge of the guys on this site, Hats off you.:cool:

[Oxygen]

Thanks, i love classic cars. I have little collection here of old cars with extremely low mileage, it's my hobby.
Here is one photo of my R75, sorry for place, just here i'm repairing it.
As i said before, car have 37k mls on the clock.

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/16.jpg

Another one from my collection:
Lada 21033 1982 with 4900mls:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/17.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/18.jpg

[Lancpudn]

Great pics:cool: The Rover looks superb & WOW the Lada really is in great condition. Congrats.:}

[ratchet]

Here is a phrase I never thought I'd ever say - that Lada is lovely :bowdown:

[Oxygen]

Understand:)
Then inside (under bonnet somewhere you can see anticorrosion coating (resin) still from factory):

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/19.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/20.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/21.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/22.JPG

[Oxygen]

So, more pics...

First- modified 17mm socked for side cover unscrew. There is low head screw, so modified socket helps.
http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/16.JPG

I think all parts except piston seals are in good condition:
http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/17.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/18.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/19.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/20.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/21.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/22.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/23.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/24.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/25.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/26.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/27.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/28.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/29.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/30.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/31.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/32.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/33.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/34.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/35.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/36.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/37.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/38.JPG

[Oxygen]

Guys, i need advice.
All gearbox parts for me will cost over 500Eur.
Now i thinking, there in box can be more damaged seals, so maybe better to buy new gearbox?
Or maybe someone knows who is selling transmission with mileage up to 40k mls?
I can buy 75 v6 2.0 with low mileage after crash as well.

[Oxygen]

Just tried install full drum (with reverse piston, reverse and high clutch) from anothet gearbox- now i have third gear.
Next problem- hard shifting, especially when hot. Solenoids?

[SD1too]

Just tried install full drum (with reverse piston, reverse and high clutch) from anothet gearbox- now i have third gear.

Well done Igoris! :jig: Keep it up.

Simon

[Oxygen]

Hi guys, back to my project, was very busy for half of year.
Rover 75 is running well until normal temperature, when engine (and transmission) getting hot- gear switches getting very hard and delayed. I'm planning get another transmission, new or up to 50k mls. Maybe someone can offer something?

[SD1too]

... when engine ... getting hot ...
How hot? What does the digital coolant temperature display (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=185808) say?
Have you checked that your radiator fan is operational on all speeds (is it 2 or 3 speed)?

Simon

[Oxygen]

Oh yes, cooling system, radiator all is ok, i mean transmission working good only when cold, up to normal temperature :)

[SD1too]

Which fluid have you used?

Simon

[Oxygen]

..Valvoline MaxLive ATF.
My transmission looks as new and shiny (37k mls on odo), but faulty. Maybe i should remove it and try to repair, but maybe better way will be replacing with new or with similar miliage.

[Oxygen]

Two friends :)

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/30.jpg

[SD1too]

... i mean transmission working good only when cold, up to normal temperature.
This evidence does tend to point to ATF viscosity doesn't it. Are you sure that you've used the level checking plug correctly (underfilling may well result in high fluid temperature)? I once accidentally underfilled an automatic gearbox after my own repairs. I had drive but no reverse. That's all it was: fluid level. :}

..Valvoline MaxLive ATF.
Definitely not the similarly named "Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF" which doesn't meet MGR's spec?

Simon

[Oxygen]

I used this:
https://www.stokker.lt/automatines-transmisios-alyva-maxlife-atf-1l-valvoline/600175289 (replaced all old with new)

[Oxygen]

I removed gearbox. All mechanical parts are in new condition. Will investigate later (problem is that when normal temperature of engine (and gearbox) is reached- switching becomes very hard and delayed).

some pics:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/1.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/2.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/3.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/4.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/5.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/6.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/7.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/8.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/9.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/10.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/11.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/12.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/13.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/14.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/16.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/17.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/18.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/19.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/20.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/21.jpg

[Oxygen]

Hi guys, all o-rings replaced (was destroyed by uncorrect Honda fluid). One o-ring is inside of torque converter, so i just installed new one.

Box with new torque converter before installation to the car:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/22.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/23.jpg

Car after 50km test drive and wash:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/24.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/25.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/26.jpg

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/27.jpg

[Ratty]

looks very good well done.

[SD1too]

... replaced original transmission fluid with Honda Z1 fluid.
Thanks Simon. Your thread with N402 fluid replacements is very, very helpful.
O- rings look .... just like after friction
Hi guys, all o-rings replaced (was destroyed by uncorrect Honda fluid).
Igoris,

Well done! You deserve several of these:
:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Igoris' brilliant work must surely prove that not all automatic transmission fluids are the same, and that it is important to use one which is specifically quoted by the manufacturer as being a direct replacement for N402. ;)

Igoris; I applaud your determination to repair your original gearbox and keep your beautiful Rover 75 on the road. :hurray: I hope that you will be an active member of the club forum because your experience will be very valuable to us all.

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/out/25.jpg

I :luvya: your Crown wheels! :D

Simon

[Oxygen]

Many, many thanks for that words, Simon.

[Oxygen]

Ah forgot. Checked plugs- all is like new, but i feel small vibration at 1000-1500 revs. No smell of unburned petrol from exhaust, so all plugs working.


I checked belts one more time (checked small belts because big one i replaced before). Small belt was replaced by German service with one tooth mistake on right head. I fixed it. Now all as should be.

[Bastelmann]

Great work, great thread, great pictures, great car. :bowdown: I´m envious of you about your technical skills and knowledge. :bowdown: And this thread is exemplary for the gentleness, expertise and helpfulness of many club members! :bowdown:

[Oxygen]

Hi guys, just installed Alpina radio instead stock Philips. I found and plugged all cables to radio (cd changer, etc.). Today i removed glovebox to install cd changer, and i cannot find other end of cd changer cable! Maybe other end is in boot?

Here is some photos:

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/cd1.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/cd2.JPG

http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/cd3.JPG

[Oxygen]

Found changer cable, now my rover can play cd :)

[Oxygen]

Guys who know original Jatco ATF characteristics?
i use Valvoline MaxLife ATF:

Viscosity @ 100 ºC 6.0
Viscosity @ 40 ºC 28.5
Viscosity Index 163

I found that this oil is Jatco N402 fluid replacement but i feel every shift, so now i want to make investigate.

EDIT:
I found original oil (Texamatic 7045E) specs...seems it is not very compatible with Valvoline.
Viscosity @ 100 ºC 7.6
Viscosity @ 40 ºC 34.6
Viscosity Index 198

[SD1too]

I found original oil (Texamatic 7045E) specs...
That fluid is mineral based and was never specified for the 75/ZT. Don't use it.

Simon

[Oxygen]

Ok, then maybe you know original oil specs?

[SD1too]

Forget about the specs Igoris, unless you're a qualified lubricant and hydraulic fluid chemist! :D Just use a fluid which meets N402 and everything will be all right.

Simon

[Oxygen]

But again,

Motul Multi-ATF: (i use list from http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1138687&postcount=23)

Viscosity @ 100 ºC 7.6
Viscosity @ 40 ºC 36.2
Viscosity Index 185


Valvoline MaxLife ATF (in the list as well, and i have it in my box):

Viscosity @ 100 ºC 6.0
Viscosity @ 40 ºC 28.5
Viscosity Index 163

I see different specs.

[Oxygen]

Forget about the specs Igoris, unless you're a qualified lubricant and hydraulic fluid chemist! :D Just use a fluid which meets N402 and everything will be all right.

Simon

yeah you are right, just i want to make clear why i feel every switch.

[SD1too]

I see different specs.
Yes but are they operationally significant? 98 octane petrol has a different spec to 95 but the engine runs satisfactorily on both.
... i want to make clear why i feel every switch.
The shifts should be very smooth. Is your fluid level correct? Do you have a faulty solenoid valve? Is your engine out of tune?

Simon

[Oxygen]

i checked resistances of solenoids and sensors, all in range. Tomorrow will connect diagnostic computer, maybe i will found something.
And of course i checked fluid level one more time, still ok.

[Oxygen]

today we checked: main and jatco ecu without any trouble codes.

[Oxygen]

Little video of my Rover:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL65bULkB4Y&t=4s

[Jules]

Looks to be very smooth gear changes but we cannot "feel" it thru a video !!!

Have you checked lower engine mount?
Notorious for failing.


BTW who was filming on your lap while you were driving :eek:

[Oxygen]

Of course me, with right hand :) Now i thinking about atf temperature measuring. When gearbox sump becomes 35 degrees c, oil cooling hoses becomes about 45. Where is true? I always use sump temperature.

[COLVERT]

Looks to be very smooth gear changes but we cannot "feel" it thru a video !!!

Have you checked lower engine mount?
Notorious for failing.


BTW who was filming on your lap while you were driving :eek:

See post number SIX.---------:eek::eek::eek:



Colv.-:D

[Oxygen]

Yes, mounting was good, but i will check one more time. About previous engine vibration- now it's ok, i found one tooth mistake on small head belt after last service in germany.

[Jules]

Of course me, with right hand :) Now i thinking about atf temperature measuring. When gearbox sump becomes 35 degrees c, oil cooling hoses becomes about 45. Where is true? I always use sump temperature.


I was thinking of road safety myself.
We would get the book thrown at us in UK for doing that :getmecoat:

[Oxygen]

You are right, sorry ;)

[Oxygen]

replaced all fluid with new. Will test later.
http://www.rover-remontas.lt/75/trans/carlube.JPG

[Muttley]

Crikey this has been like watching a long running soap opera on the box (and No, I dont!).

Except there was no ending?

Are we to assume that Oxygen and his 37k Rover 75 auto have driven off into the sunset and eternal happiness together?

Is there a second series starring the Lada, or is that only available on Sky?

Help please?

[Oxygen]

Hello! I'm still here and of course still have my 75 :) !
Something wrong with all my photos, will check later.

[Jules]

Looks like Oxygen is a garage in Lithuania.

Hopefully he sorted it ??

[Oxygen]

Hello Jules, i'm with rovers for last 10 years. 90% of my repaired rovers had 4 cyl k series engines. And until this day i repaired hundreds of them. Just sometimes i want to be "normal" guy and sometimes i want to hear what thinks other forum members.

[Jules]

Great to hear.
Big question we all want to know is if you fixed that Jatco Gearbox ?!!

[Oxygen]

To be honest box still sometimes shifts harder than normal. Very interesting, all resistances are ok when i testing box connectors. This summer i will test resistances where gearbox harness comes to gearbox ecu. Every time when i have automatic 75 at my service i test car after repairs at the road, so maybe 60% have harder shifts, like mine..

[Jules]

I would say 99% of Jatcos we see here (lots) are silky smooth :)

[Oxygen]

I know that ant i don't understand why. Maybe i will order all new solenoids, it's becomes interesting. Btw i covered over 10k km with this car.

[Oxygen]

I feel that everytime oil pressure is too high. If i'm right- duty solenoids would help.