Correct way to start my Turbo

[bilsan330]

Hello everyone out there in Rover land.

I have had my Rover 75 turbo petrol estate now for 6 months. The manual was not with it.

Not meant to be a silly question but what is the correct way to start the car from cold ????

Although I have had no problems starting is there a right or wrong way to start the car. I ask because yesterday for the first time it was hard to start in the cold weather. What I have been doing up to now is get in and switch on and start..with all the ignition lights on....should I wait for the lights to go out then start. Like a diesel pre ignition. or does it not matter.

Thanks
Bill

[stevestrat]

I don't know if it makes a difference but I've always waited for a car to go through its "check procedure" before starting.

[FLYING BANANA]

I don't know if it makes a difference but I've always waited for a car to go through its "check procedure" before starting.

As above, wait till all the lights go out. I then depress the clutch whilst starting.

[T-Cut]

what is the correct way to start the car from cold ????

The official words:http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/waveguide/Start_Engine_zpsqwyi94qc.jpg

TC

[COLVERT]

The official words:http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/waveguide/Start_Engine_zpsqwyi94qc.jpg

TC

No waiting there then.

[anddyy]

So straight in and start.
Ive always waited till ive heard the fuel pump finish humming.

[klarzy]

for the diesel turbo cars...

key to pos 2 for 3-4 seconds (don't bother to wait for glow plugs they are not needed until around -15C)
crank till engine fires
rin in idle for 15-20 seconds to ensure oil has reached the turbo bearings
Try to keep below 2000 rpm until engine temp is near normal.. (mid mark)

[grivas]

No need to wait for anything just as T-Cut posted, go for it.!

[klarzy]

No need to wait for anything just as T-Cut posted, go for it.!

as it states, that's for petrol...

you get in a diesel and rev the nuts off it from cold and your turbo will not last as long...

[T-Cut]

For the diesel:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/waveguide/Start_Engine_Diesel_zps7zhwwfno.jpg

TC

[klarzy]

I know what common sense tells me to do, wait for the oil to get up to pressure and circulate a bit, then let the engine get warm before flooring it...

[COLVERT]

for the diesel turbo cars...

key to pos 2 for 3-4 seconds (don't bother to wait for glow plugs they are not needed until around -15C)
crank till engine fires
rin in idle for 15-20 seconds to ensure oil has reached the turbo bearings
Try to keep below 2000 rpm until engine temp is near normal.. (mid mark)

As soon as the oil light goes out there is pressure EVERYWHERE.---:eek:

[klarzy]

As soon as the oil light goes out there is pressure EVERYWHERE.---:eek:

but not necessarily flow... and not necessarily pressure if there is a blocked port or hose the pressure will take an alternate path of lesser resistance...

all the pressure sensor tells you is that there is pressure at the sensor tip.

[muggerbee]

As above, wait till all the lights go out. I then depress the clutch whilst starting.

Don't know if I was taught correctly, but I was told to start in neutral without depressing the clutch pedal, I assume because it's an extra wear cycle on the pressure plate.

[macafee2]

Don't know if I was taught correctly, but I was told to start in neutral without depressing the clutch pedal, I assume because it's an extra wear cycle on the pressure plate.

I was told to depress the clutch. Two reasons, in case it is in gear and less strain on the starter.

macafee2

[klarzy]

I was told to depress the clutch. Two reasons, in case it is in gear and less strain on the starter.

macafee2

Some cars will not start without the clutch and or brake depressed.

[COLVERT]

but not necessarily flow... and not necessarily pressure if there is a blocked port or hose the pressure will take an alternate path of lesser resistance...

all the pressure sensor tells you is that there is pressure at the sensor tip.

The oil light only goes out after the oil pump can produce MORE flow than the system losses. The point when this happens is when the oil has gone everywhere it is possible for it to go. ( Including the turbo. )

If there are any blockages, as you say, then you will be in serious trouble.
Oil or no oil pressure. ---:D:D:D

:zap::laughing2:

[klarzy]

The oil light only goes out after the oil pump can produce MORE flow than the system losses. The point when this happens is when the oil has gone everywhere it is possible for it to go. ( Including the turbo. )

If there are any blockages, as you say, then you will be in serious trouble.
Oil or no oil pressure. ---:D:D:D

:zap::laughing2:

so the oil path is one continuous gallery with no branches...?

[T-Cut]

If an oil route has a blockage, you'll never know till it's too late anyway.

TC

[Avulon]

If an oil route has a blockage, you'll never know till it's too late anyway.

TC
:wot

And the oil light will still go out.

I do understand the caution of not assuming full flow all around the oil paths just because the light has gone out. it does just mean that there's enough pressure to activate the sensor at the sensor location. Does anyone know what the location of the sensor is relative to the rest of the system? Which does the oil reach first (assuming all the oil ways have drained down before starting) the turbo, the top end of the engine, the pressure sensor? If I was designing it I'd have the sensor at the longest reach from the oil pump, i.e. the light wouldn't go out until the oil would be getting to everywhere it should (assuming no blockages) : how did Rover design the 'K' series in that regard?

[COLVERT]

I guess you have to consider what the functions of the oil are.

The pressure is needed, basically, to remove bearing generated heat. An oil flow is what is needed here. ( especially in the turbo. ). However the turbo, on start up, is usually cool or cold. No immediate need for oil flow. A 5 second delay, for instance, would probably not be damaging.

Most of the lubrication in the engine happens simply because the oil which coats the surfaces is incompressible. It just has to be there to do its job.

Prime examples are the pistons and rings or between the cams and followers. Splash feed without pressure is all that's needed.

As far as tripping the oil pressure switch is concerned I can't see that the internal friction instigated in the oil as it fills the oil ways would generate enough back pressure to trip the switch.

Maybe in the dead of winter or perhaps with oil that's not been changed for many thousands of miles that the switch will trip before all the oil passages are full.

These multi-grade oils nowadays are pretty thin, hot or cold.

Any comments Gents ??? Always willing to learn something new.--:bowdown::bowdown:

[klarzy]

I guess you have to consider what the functions of the oil are.

The pressure is needed, basically, to remove bearing generated heat. An oil flow is what is needed here. ( especially in the turbo. ). However the turbo, on start up, is usually cool or cold. No immediate need for oil flow. A 5 second delay, for instance, would probably not be damaging.

Most of the lubrication in the engine happens simply because the oil which coats the surfaces is incompressible. It just has to be there to do its job.

Prime examples are the pistons and rings or between the cams and followers. Splash feed without pressure is all that's needed.

As far as tripping the oil pressure switch is concerned I can't see that the internal friction instigated in the oil as it fills the oil ways would generate enough back pressure to trip the switch.

Maybe in the dead of winter or perhaps with oil that's not been changed for many thousands of miles that the switch will trip before all the oil passages are full.

These multi-grade oils nowadays are pretty thin, hot or cold.

Any comments Gents ??? Always willing to learn something new.--:bowdown::bowdown:

well all of the journal bearings and the turbo if it is not on roller bearings (usual due to speed of rotation) will work on the thin film under pressure principle to keep the inner and outer raced from touching and causing wear.
This is why I stated not to use the right foot straight off as I believe < 2000 rpm does not spin the turbo up ?? so keeping the revs low until the oil has had a chance to refill all the gallery's that may have drained since the last use is a good idea. This is also why you should not rev hard (spinning up the turbo to 10k revs +) before shutting the engine off and killing the oil flow and pressure.

[bl52krz]

To start your car which has a turbo fitted, does not require any special measures whatsoever. You should start it the same way as a non turbo car. You should never Rev a car engine when first started, none turbo or turbo fitted. Turbo's at idle can be spinning at 60/80000 rpm, 200,000 at full throttle, even higher in low inertia form,therefore always let the engine oil warm up first. I never rev my engine above around 2000 rpm until I have done around 10 miles.

[COLVERT]

To start your car which has a turbo fitted, does not require any special measures whatsoever. You should start it the same way as a non turbo car. You should never Rev a car engine when first started, none turbo or turbo fitted. Turbo's at idle can be spinning at 60/80000 rpm, 200,000 at full throttle, even higher in low inertia form,therefore always let the engine oil warm up first. I never rev my engine above around 2000 rpm until I have done around 10 minutes

Could be good sex advice too.---------------:p::p::p:

[Jakg]

Some cars will not start without the clutch and or brake depressed.

This is more to prevent an accident than wear and tear on the car.

You shouldn't need to any of these techniques in a modern car.

I always start my car in neutral, with the clutch in - and I always leave it in gear.