Radiator fan Problem.

[NickPimmMG]

Hi there my name is Nick,

I have an MG ZT CDTI+ 135 Auto on an 04 plate, mk2 i think, it has the face-lift front. It has the 1951 cc BMW chain driven engine.

The problem i have is, the radiator fan will not turn off, even after the ignition is off it will stay running (i know when its hot it will stay running for a few minutes after and will eventually shut off when its cool enough) however mine just keeps going and going. So to combat this i have had to take out the fuse for the fan to stop the battery going dead.

I know the relays are obviously knackered, but I'm trying to find out what part i need to fix this problem, as far as i can tell its the fan motor and control box as the part. But i'm having trouble finding which part fits my car as i know there are many different parts for different models, and i don't want to get the wrong one,

Can anybody help?

This is the first time I've posted and I'm sure I've missed something important out, I hope that I've given you the right information to help me.

Thank you

Nick

[T-Cut]

You can buy the correct relays from the forum traders or check for yourself by removing the front bumper. They're standard units as I recall, available from auto shops.

TC

[NickPimmMG]

Hi TC, Thank you for replying,

I was under the impression that i would need the whole unit which was the fan motor and control box, as that was what a car electrician said to me when he diagnosed the problem for me.

I admit I'm no mechanic, i would have no clue how to get to the relays.

But is as simple as swapping them over, and not buying an expensive part like the fan motor and control box part, i was told it was part number pgj000110, which was very expensive.

Thanks

Nick

[SD1too]

Hello Nick and :welcome: to the club.

You are not the first diesel owner to have this problem. It may be a welded relay contact but is more likely to be failure of the printed circuit board in the fan control box.

The auto electrician is correct to say that the only MGR part available is the motor and control box assembly at enormous expense. I would not take that option if I were you, especially as you will get the unreliable 'silver' resistor as part of the deal. :o

What you need to do first is some tests to establish which part is responsible. With the front bumper removed, the control box can be reached. If you temporarily swap the relays that will either confirm or rule out that possibility. But from what you've reported the fault is much more likely to be the PCB. If you send it to club member FrenchMike he will repair it for you. You cannot buy replacements any more.

Simon