CDTi coolant change

[EastPete]

I am changing the coolant on my 75 CDTi today - there is no record of it being changed since it left the factory in 2005 !

In the process, I am trying to tidy up the mess of pipework in front of the battery box - garages in the past have broken all the clips holding the pipework and lashed it together with various cable ties etc. I bought a new heater bleed valve hose (the old one was taped up to stop it leaking),as well as cable clips from Rimmers. I have fitted it all up as I think it should go, but wonder if the bleed valve is sitting too high, such that I will have trouble bleeding the system - the bleed screw is almost level with the top of the battery box - is this too high ?

All comments will be appreciated- I guess I can use the trick of unbolting the header tank and raising it whilst filling the system to get rid of air.

Cheers

Pete

[klarzy]

When the FBH is fitted the bleed valve sits on top of that so i would not saay too high, the cars i have seen with no FBH the pipe is bent down lower.

I do not think having it there will do any harm at all... having it at the highest spot makes the most sense.

[penfest]

do you have a part number for the heater hose you bought as I need to replace mine?:shrug:

[EastPete]

do you have a part number for the heater hose you bought as I need to replace mine?:shrug:


It is PCH119334 - this gets you the whole hose down to the lower heater port - I only actually needed the bit in front of the battery box (about one third of it) - you can separate this bit at the quick release joints, to avoid having to fit the whole hose. I don't think the bit with the bleed valve is available separately. The whole hose is about 30 pounds or so from Rimmers.

Hope this helps

Pete

[COLVERT]

If the header tank is higher than the bleed valve then you definitely have no trouble.

The pressure in the system is such that any air will try and collect at the valve anyway, if it's high, so making it easy to bleed it out.

Below is a pic of the heater pipes as fitted by MGR. I have put some sponge between the pipes and the metal brackets that tend to dig into the pipes.

[first-things-first]

I don't think you have the EGR coolant bleed screw as this might only be fitted to auto's?

If you did it would be below the acoustic cover left of the fuel filter.

See here http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1350471&postcount=25.

[EastPete]

I don't think you have the EGR coolant bleed screw as this might only be fitted to auto's?

If you did it would be below the acoustic cover left of the fuel filter.

See here http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1350471&postcount=25.

Andrew

I have an EGR bypass on my car, and certainly do not recall any bleed valves near there when I fitted it.

Anyway, I have filled up the system - it only took about 5 litres until the fluid started to come out of the bleed hole, even with header tank raised. I then ran it at 2000-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes to get the temp gauge up to 9 o'clock, but could not get the fan to kick in - I guess this is not unusual on the diesels. I left it to cool for a couple of hours , then added a bit more fluid to get it to the MAX mark in the header tank. Took it for a 7-8 mile run - everything warmed up as usual, and the heater was working well. So, I think I have bled the system OK, but was surprised it did not take the full 8 litres - I guess you can never drain the system completely, and I had flushed the radiator with a hose pipe, so perhaps there was some water left in the rad.

I'll check the level again in the morning to see that all is well.
Pete

[marinabrian]

Andrew

I have an EGR bypass on my car, and certainly do not recall any bleed valves near there when I fitted it.

Anyway, I have filled up the system - it only took about 5 litres until the fluid started to come out of the bleed hole, even with header tank raised. I then ran it at 2000-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes to get the temp gauge up to 9 o'clock, but could not get the fan to kick in - I guess this is not unusual on the diesels. I left it to cool for a couple of hours , then added a bit more fluid to get it to the MAX mark in the header tank. Took it for a 7-8 mile run - everything warmed up as usual, and the heater was working well. So, I think I have bled the system OK, but was surprised it did not take the full 8 litres - I guess you can never drain the system completely, and I had flushed the radiator with a hose pipe, so perhaps there was some water left in the rad.

I'll check the level again in the morning to see that all is well.
Pete

The only way to drain the system completely is to remove the drain bung from the engine block.

Don't worry about it though ;)

Brian :D

[EastPete]

Thanks Brian

I did remove the plug (photo below) from the back of the engine block near the exhaust/turbo joint (once I had worked out the Haynes manual was wrong, and drain plug is on the back, not the front of the engine). Quite a lot of fluid came out. As you say, I am not worried, as everything seems to be working fine - the heater is chucking out good heat, the temp. gauge is steady at 9 o'clock and the heater hoses were all warm after a run, so I do not think anything is amiss.

Cheers

Peter

[DMGRS]

Keeping the system 'fresh' is a good way of avoiding the sludge / silt build up in the Heater Matrix that invariably gives poor heating in the cabin - and of course keeps corrosion protection up too.

Maybe I need to get my hands dirty... :D

[grivas]

Thanks Brian

I did remove the plug (photo below) from the back of the engine block near the exhaust/turbo joint (once I had worked out the Haynes manual was wrong, and drain plug is on the back, not the front of the engine). Quite a lot of fluid came out. As you say, I am not worried, as everything seems to be working fine - the heater is chucking out good heat, the temp. gauge is steady at 9 o'clock and the heater hoses were all warm after a run, so I do not think anything is amiss.

Cheers

Peter
The Haynes manual is for all intents and purposes just, only just, mind you good enough as toilet paper, it is a joke, inaccurate, badly written, poor quality photos, another example of a ' resting on it laurels', not a patch on earlier years publications, now not worth paper written on. Very few if any publish a real quality manual about anything now, it costs a great deal of money to put together a quality detailed and accurate manual, nobody cares, we live in a throw away society. So please don't rely on it for anything as complicated as a coolant change.!!

[EastPete]

The Haynes manual is for all intents and purposes just, only just, mind you good enough as toilet paper, it is a joke, inaccurate, badly written, poor quality photos, another example of a ' resting on it laurels', not a patch on earlier years publications, now not worth paper written on. Very few if any publish a real quality manual about anything now, it costs a great deal of money to put together a quality detailed and accurate manual, nobody cares, we live in a throw away society. So please don't rely on it for anything as complicated as a coolant change.!!

Mario

I couldn't agree more - the Haynes manual I have for my old MGB is so much better, with nice clear drawings/diagrams and better quality photos. The text is better written as well. As technical consultant for the pharmaceutical industry, I have seen standards of written documents/reports decline over the last 20 years - there is too much reliance on generating documents and performing data presentation using computer generated templates, with no flexibility - the report writer just uses these defaults, rather than taking the trouble to generate bespoke reports that are of use to someone reading them !

Anyway, the coolant level is sitting just slightly below the MAX tab in the header tank this morning - it just needed about 50 mLs water to top it up, no sign of any leaks, so all seems to be well.

Pete

[COLVERT]

Thanks Brian

I did remove the plug (photo below) from the back of the engine block near the exhaust/turbo joint (once I had worked out the Haynes manual was wrong, and drain plug is on the back, not the front of the engine). Quite a lot of fluid came out. As you say, I am not worried, as everything seems to be working fine - the heater is chucking out good heat, the temp. gauge is steady at 9 o'clock and the heater hoses were all warm after a run, so I do not think anything is amiss.

Cheers

Peter

And when it's all finished don't forget to give the rad a bit of this--------

[binraider]

I've always referred to it as "The Haynes book of lies" ....

[hogweed]

I've always referred to it as "The Haynes book of lies" ....

"The Haynes Jokebook" we always called it...

[T-Cut]

The Haynes manual is for all intents and purposes just, only just, mind you good enough as toilet paper, it is a joke, inaccurate, badly written, poor quality photos, - - -

But surely better than nothing, which many members seem to have. Maybe worth considering a 'proper' manual - it's the only alternative there is:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/waveguide/Cricked_Neck_zps70ca2931.jpg

Rimmer:http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RP1012OE

Anazon:http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rover-amp-Workshop-Manual-Manuals/dp/1855208849/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1459860575&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=mg+rover+rover+75+workshop++manual

TC