PDA

View Full Version : Towing weight of a caravan


apywell
10th July 2008, 12:17
Hi

I am taking the delivery of a caravan this weekend.. impulse purchase!! Anyhow, Now I'm noticing that there is a max weight for the caravan I can tow.

Can anyone give advice on this please because at Gross Vehicle weight of 1,700kg is this caravan too heavy for my diesel 75? :shrug:

Alan

black olive
10th July 2008, 12:26
the 75's are all rated at 1600Kg, with a maximum noseweight of 100kg, so if you dont overload and keep your noseweight to a minimum you should be ok.

is it fitted with a stabiliser- if not, get one.

steve107
10th July 2008, 12:36
the rover will pull 1600kg .find out what the caravan weight is empty then load up to a max of 1600 ie caravan weights 1000 you can put 600 which is pots pans /awning/gas botts /etc you dont say which engine you have as 1.8 is 1200kg /2.0 1450kg/2.5-160-190+2.0 diesel 1600kg.it is best not to go to max.

apywell
10th July 2008, 12:38
Thanks for this

Sorry for sounding a bit thick.... :lol: but what's the nose weight?

And what does a stabiliser do?

steve107
10th July 2008, 12:50
the nose weight is what sits on the tow bar at front of van .i find it is easyer to put nothing in the front locker .the more weight you put on the front .the weight will bring the back end of the car lower.a staberlizer is to stop the swaying and in thery stop it tipping over

BigRuss
10th July 2008, 12:55
Nose wieght is the amount of wieght pressing down on the towball, the car will pull up to 1600kg but loading the caravan with most of the wieght at the front will exceed the nosewieght limit.

The stabiliser is there to lessen the amount of sideways movement of the caravan due to sidewinds and other forces.


Russ

ragitty
10th July 2008, 12:59
Here you go, just click the link and all the information ref towing weights are at your finger tips.. just click the link below

http://www.cuddles.abelgratis.net/kerbweights.htm

ragitty
10th July 2008, 13:04
Easy way to see what the nose weight is if you dont have a nose weight gauge...get a pair of bathroom scales, put a sturdy piece of timber under the caravan hitch and rest the other end on the scales.

Definately get a stabilizer worth there weight in gold also gives you peace of mind and more control over caravan should you be caught by sidewind or vortex created by lorries passing you too closely.

Heavy items should be placed on the floor over the axle of the caravan. common sence really, ensure that the caravan is sitting level i.e not nose end high or too low.

Hampton Caught
10th July 2008, 14:31
Alan,

I would recommend joining the Caravan Club - I'm a member and you will be entitled to loads of Technical Sheets which give advice on towing, loading your caravan so it's safe, setting up and breaking camp, maintaining your caravan, security etc etc. There are loads of Club sites across the UK which are well maintained and there's a monthly magazine that's full of excellent information.

My recommendations are: speak to folks who've towed caravans and can pass on handy hints, dos and don'ts (er, like us, really!), join the Club, make sure you insure the caravan (phone around), if it's second hand, get it serviced by a specialist, buy the best security measures you can (at least a wheel clamp and a hitch lock but think about tracking devices, extra locks etc.

Go for a short journey over a weekend, to get the hang of things. If you've forgotten the important equipment (like a corkscrew) you can pop home! get your confidence before setting off on a mega-tour. I'm off to France in 2 weeks and towing there is very straight-forward!

Alan, what's the make and model of the caravan? Details of weights and nose weights are often on line. If it's new and the dealer knew what car you've got, they should not have sold you one too heavy for your towcar. If they have, Trading Standards will want to know!!!

If you need more advice, just ask!

Steve

ragitty
10th July 2008, 14:34
:wot::wot::wot: excellent advice.

apywell
10th July 2008, 15:18
the nose weight is what sits on the tow bar at front of van .i find it is easyer to put nothing in the front locker .the more weight you put on the front .the weight will bring the back end of the car lower.a staberlizer is to stop the swaying and in thery stop it tipping over
Thanks for this. I have seen some cars with the rear of the car well down when towing... cant be good for the shocks.

apywell
10th July 2008, 15:19
Nose wieght is the amount of wieght pressing down on the towball, the car will pull up to 1600kg but loading the caravan with most of the wieght at the front will exceed the nosewieght limit.

The stabiliser is there to lessen the amount of sideways movement of the caravan due to sidewinds and other forces.


Russ
I think a stabiliser is a must then....

apywell
10th July 2008, 15:27
Alan,

I would recommend joining the Caravan Club - I'm a member and you will be entitled to loads of Technical Sheets which give advice on towing, loading your caravan so it's safe, setting up and breaking camp, maintaining your caravan, security etc etc. There are loads of Club sites across the UK which are well maintained and there's a monthly magazine that's full of excellent information.

My recommendations are: speak to folks who've towed caravans and can pass on handy hints, dos and don'ts (er, like us, really!), join the Club, make sure you insure the caravan (phone around), if it's second hand, get it serviced by a specialist, buy the best security measures you can (at least a wheel clamp and a hitch lock but think about tracking devices, extra locks etc.

Go for a short journey over a weekend, to get the hang of things. If you've forgotten the important equipment (like a corkscrew) you can pop home! get your confidence before setting off on a mega-tour. I'm off to France in 2 weeks and towing there is very straight-forward!

Alan, what's the make and model of the caravan? Details of weights and nose weights are often on line. If it's new and the dealer knew what car you've got, they should not have sold you one too heavy for your towcar. If they have, Trading Standards will want to know!!!

If you need more advice, just ask!

Steve
Hi Steve

Some sound advice here, thanks.

We are actually booked into a site but we need to belong to the camping and caravan club when we get there. So as I wasn't sure which one to join they have made my mind up. I guess they are the same. Will check out my insurance through them too.

The make and model is an Elddis Tornado XL (1991). Can't find dimensions online.... :shrug: The guy I'm getting it off says it is 1,700KG. Does this seem right?

It is 2nd hand. The guy im getting it off has only had it a year.

apywell
10th July 2008, 15:31
Here's another question....

I will be carrying the awning and other things on the roof of the car. Would the added weight on the 75 make towing safer or is is not that simple.

I take in what has been said about even distribution of weight in the caravan.

GrahamP
10th July 2008, 16:34
The maximum towing weight for the 75 is 1600 kg, the Caravan Club recommend that that the maximum all up weight of a braked outfit should not exceed 85% of the vehicles towing weight ie 1360 kg.
You need to have a 100 kg nose weight on the 75 and increase the rear tyre pressures to 40 psi.
Most modern caravans if the are on a AL-KO chassis and coupling will have a built in stabiliser incorporated in the coupling.
My setup with a Coachman 5 berth setup as above is perfectly stable at speeds above the uk legal limit.

Hampton Caught
10th July 2008, 16:42
Here's another question....

I will be carrying the awning and other things on the roof of the car. Would the added weight on the 75 make towing safer or is is not that simple.

I take in what has been said about even distribution of weight in the caravan.

Hi Alan,

There is a measurement of the maximum weight of the car, caravan and their loads (can't remember the proper name for this), so storing the awning will be part of this measurement. Thinking back to my A level Physics, it would seem to make more sense carrying the awning on or in the car rather than in the 'van. You don't want the van to weigh more than the car - or it's tail wagging the dog time!

Re the even distribution of weight - it's not that even! Keep heavy items on the floor in the centre of the 'van, over the axle if possible. I transport my awning there. Doon't be tempted to place heavy items at the very front or rear of the van as you'll be more likely to snake along the road (wagging tail again!).

I've been a member of both Clubs and the C&C Club is fine. They should be able to advise you about the suitableness of the caravan. Couldn't find anything on the web about weights other than a reference to maximum weight being 1,700Kg, which doesn't sound right! Preferably, the caravan should not weigh more than 85% of the weight of the car, including loads. You can go up to 100%, but beyond that and 'you're on your own' - until the emergency services get to you!!!

Back to nose weights - the 75s and ZTs have a maximum nose weight of 100Kg (which is a lot for this type of car). Don't overload this. Put light stuff in the front external locker as this has the most effect on nose weights.

The caravan is similar in size and type to my 2001 Abbey. Newer vans have more kit which means they're heavier, so I expect you'll be fine weight-wise but do check with the C&C Club for reassurance. That's mine as well as yours! ;)

Let us know how you get on!

Steve

ragitty
10th July 2008, 18:05
Hopefully you may find some useful information in the link below, regards Lee

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=148778&highlight=towing+weights#post148778

apywell
10th July 2008, 19:54
Couldn't find anything on the web about weights other than a reference to maximum weight being 1,700Kg, which doesn't sound right! Preferably, the caravan should not weigh more than 85% of the weight of the car, including loads.

If you saw that reference was a van on ebay, then it is the one I have just purchased. I'm thinking that maybe the weight is wrong as is isn't a big van.

I woule like to be sure.... I'll have another look on the net.

apywell
10th July 2008, 19:55
Hopefully you may find some useful information in the link below, regards Lee

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=148778&highlight=towing+weights#post148778
Thanks Lee, loads of info here

Mike 25543
10th July 2008, 20:34
Hi Alan.
According to my book max towing weight for a braked trailer for 75 Diesel is 1600 kg. max nose weight is 100 kg. There is a note which says ' .. the max laden weight can be increased by 100 kg, ... and the rear axle load can be increased by 15% provided road speed is limited to a max' of 62 mph'.
As a long time caravaner I would advise stabaliser and if not fitted 'Tyreons', and join the Caravan Club.

Vulcan190+
11th July 2008, 00:04
I caravanned for over 20 years and my father in law still does and is a c&c club member rallying every weekend.
It's not rocket science... work out the weights and you've cracked it.

The 85% rule is a guideline but most seasoned 'vanners use it as a gospel. Just make sure the fully laden weight of the van doesn't exceed 85% of the weight of the car you, can exceed it but at your own risk. I would advise not to until you have experience of the weight of the whole unit.

Load the van over the axle(s) with heavy stuff and don't carry what you don't need to. Keep everything low down.
I can't find a definitive weight on the net for that van and I would suggest a walk into your local caravan dealer and just ask him whether he thinks it matches, but I'm sure that the 75 is heavy enough.
This is why most experienced caravanners buy a massive 4x4 just to be sure.

You MUST have a stabiliser, without it you risk a snake, I have been there with a bad snake on; and it's only luck that the whole unit did not turn over, brown trousers and 10mph onwards from there.... :(

Moving the whole unit:
Think about the length of the unit, most people just drive the front wheels and can scrape the wings of a Ford Ka turning a corner. Move your perception outwards to the end (back) of the trailer and always work from that rather than your normal steering of the car.
Reversing is a huge thing and newbies will pile it.. end of.. as the unit moves steer and WATCH it when it starts to go follow it with the steering and correct it, now this will be opposite to what you expect so if you can, find a big empty space and practice.

Caravanning is a hobby and an art, embrace it and enjoy it and poopoo the Clarksonites who hate vans, we don't hold up anyone, big trucks, coaches do that, we travel at the proper speed with cars that can do it.
Be proud as a part of today's British society who want a decent holiday inside their own country and want to use their own car to tow their own home from home with them.

EDIT: I'm sitting here at 1.15 am thinking..I want another van.. this thread has probably cost me 12k over the next few weeks..doh!! Oh how I hate nostalgia.. it's so expensive.

black olive
11th July 2008, 06:20
from all the useful info given on here we could probaly do with a caravanners sub forum !!

We've recently taken the plunge and bough a 2000 4 berth Abbey with a large end washroom- all the kit included ( bereavement sale)

Havent been away yet- am still washing, polishing, and going through all the kit to see what goes where. this weekend will be sterilising the water and drainage systems and checking the wather heater out ( had been drained off for the winter), but am looking forward to the first outing.

found towing very mentally draining for the first few mile s!!

windrush
11th July 2008, 06:48
A caravanning section has all ready been ask for and turned down

GrahamP
11th July 2008, 09:13
One point that hasn't been mentioned yet regarding nose weight and getting it right, is the fact that as your towing speed increases above 40 mph the front of the caravan rises due to the air pressure on the front of the van.
That is why you need sufficient nose weight to start with to counteract this lightening of the the cars back end and why snaking starts to kick in above this speed.

Hampton Caught
11th July 2008, 12:03
from all the useful info given on here we could probaly do with a caravanners sub forum !!

Havent been away yet- am still washing, polishing, and going through all the kit to see what goes where. this weekend will be sterilising the water and drainage systems and checking the wather heater out ( had been drained off for the winter), but am looking forward to the first outing.



Don't forget to do the obvious, safety-related things such as checking the trailer lights, and if you can't get the whole caravan serviced by a specialist, at least tighten the wheel nuts and check the tyre pressures, oh, and the tyres themselves. Caravan tyres can get flat spots where they are not used for months on end, so this can degrade the tyre wall. I think the Caravan Club advice is to change them every 6 years whatever the mileage.

As previously mentioned, 'Tyron' bands are an excellent idea. Have them on my 'van. They prevent the tyre coming off the rim if you have a blow-out. You can control the outfit and stop safely without parking the 'van on it's side! Money very well spent. If your second-hand van already has them, make sure the vendor passes on the very long allen-key tool, as a tyre fitter will need this to take the Tyron bands off, as and when.

Graham, very interesting point you make about the nose weight decreasing with speed. Never really thought about that.

Can we ask again about a caravanners forum? Sounds like a superb idea :bowdown:

Steve

windrush
11th July 2008, 12:25
Don't forget to do the obvious, safety-related things such as checking the trailer lights, and if you can't get the whole caravan serviced by a specialist, at least tighten the wheel nuts and check the tyre pressures, oh, and the tyres themselves. Caravan tyres can get flat spots where they are not used for months on end, so this can degrade the tyre wall. I think the Caravan Club advice is to change them every 6 years whatever the mileage.

As previously mentioned, 'Tyron' bands are an excellent idea. Have them on my 'van. They prevent the tyre coming off the rim if you have a blow-out. You can control the outfit and stop safely without parking the 'van on it's side! Money very well spent. If your second-hand van already has them, make sure the vendor passes on the very long allen-key tool, as a tyre fitter will need this to take the Tyron bands off, as and when.

Graham, very interesting point you make about the nose weight decreasing with speed. Never really thought about that.

Can we ask again about a caravanners forum? Sounds like a superb idea :bowdown:

Steve

You can certainly ask but don't hold your breath

apywell
11th July 2008, 19:35
Hi Alan.
According to my book max towing weight for a braked trailer for 75 Diesel is 1600 kg. max nose weight is 100 kg. There is a note which says ' .. the max laden weight can be increased by 100 kg, ... and the rear axle load can be increased by 15% provided road speed is limited to a max' of 62 mph'.
As a long time caravaner I would advise stabaliser and if not fitted 'Tyreons', and join the Caravan Club.

Thanks Mike... I joined the camping and caravan club today because the site we are booked on for the Whitby festival will only take club members..... It will be our first outing.

I think what I will do is put the awning and other heavy itens on the roof rack thus increasing the weight of the car and keep the van as light as poss. I will be very careful for our first trip.

apywell
11th July 2008, 19:44
I caravanned for over 20 years and my father in law still does and is a c&c club member rallying every weekend.
It's not rocket science... work out the weights and you've cracked it.

The 85% rule is a guideline but most seasoned 'vanners use it as a gospel. Just make sure the fully laden weight of the van doesn't exceed 85% of the weight of the car you, can exceed it but at your own risk. I would advise not to until you have experience of the weight of the whole unit.

Load the van over the axle(s) with heavy stuff and don't carry what you don't need to. Keep everything low down.
I can't find a definitive weight on the net for that van and I would suggest a walk into your local caravan dealer and just ask him whether he thinks it matches, but I'm sure that the 75 is heavy enough.
This is why most experienced caravanners buy a massive 4x4 just to be sure.

You MUST have a stabiliser, without it you risk a snake, I have been there with a bad snake on; and it's only luck that the whole unit did not turn over, brown trousers and 10mph onwards from there.... :(

Moving the whole unit:
Think about the length of the unit, most people just drive the front wheels and can scrape the wings of a Ford Ka turning a corner. Move your perception outwards to the end (back) of the trailer and always work from that rather than your normal steering of the car.
Reversing is a huge thing and newbies will pile it.. end of.. as the unit moves steer and WATCH it when it starts to go follow it with the steering and correct it, now this will be opposite to what you expect so if you can, find a big empty space and practice.

Caravanning is a hobby and an art, embrace it and enjoy it and poopoo the Clarksonites who hate vans, we don't hold up anyone, big trucks, coaches do that, we travel at the proper speed with cars that can do it.
Be proud as a part of today's British society who want a decent holiday inside their own country and want to use their own car to tow their own home from home with them.

EDIT: I'm sitting here at 1.15 am thinking..I want another van.. this thread has probably cost me 12k over the next few weeks..doh!! Oh how I hate nostalgia.. it's so expensive.

Thanks for all your info. I have pulled a trailer all over the place full of camping stuff so i kind of know how a trailer behaves while reversing. Although i know a van is soo much wider and taller. Quite daunting really, but I know me and I am taking delivery on Sunday morning in a large country park with a very big car park, so i will have a few practices reversing etc before I get out on the open road.

I have always enjoyed holidaying in the open air in this country and have a large 6berth frame tent, but sadly the wife has had enough of tent erecting... hehehe. I'm sure we will love our first venture caravanning. At £1900 with everything included, I had to buy it!

Oh, and sorry for for your loss of 12k..... but is it?

apywell
11th July 2008, 19:48
One point that hasn't been mentioned yet regarding nose weight and getting it right, is the fact that as your towing speed increases above 40 mph the front of the caravan rises due to the air pressure on the front of the van.
That is why you need sufficient nose weight to start with to counteract this lightening of the the cars back end and why snaking starts to kick in above this speed.

Oh dear, now it seems complicated.... eeek!

apywell
11th July 2008, 19:51
Don't forget to do the obvious, safety-related things such as checking the trailer lights, and if you can't get the whole caravan serviced by a specialist, at least tighten the wheel nuts and check the tyre pressures, oh, and the tyres themselves. Caravan tyres can get flat spots where they are not used for months on end, so this can degrade the tyre wall. I think the Caravan Club advice is to change them every 6 years whatever the mileage.

As previously mentioned, 'Tyron' bands are an excellent idea. Have them on my 'van. They prevent the tyre coming off the rim if you have a blow-out. You can control the outfit and stop safely without parking the 'van on it's side! Money very well spent. If your second-hand van already has them, make sure the vendor passes on the very long allen-key tool, as a tyre fitter will need this to take the Tyron bands off, as and when.

Graham, very interesting point you make about the nose weight decreasing with speed. Never really thought about that.

Can we ask again about a caravanners forum? Sounds like a superb idea :bowdown:

Steve

I have spoken to the guy i'm buying it off tonight and he says he baught it in March this year from a reputable dealer and it was serviced before he took delivery. So sounds good!

apywell
11th July 2008, 19:52
You can certainly ask but don't hold your breath
I guess it will nean joining the forums on thses caravan club sites......

Dave Goody
11th July 2008, 19:56
I agree with everything having towed vans for years, always using a powerful towing vehicle

Stick close to the 100 K noseweight but not above
fit a stabiliser
fit Tyron bands [a puncture or blowout will turn the caravan over without]

+ fit new tyres after purchase even if they look good and have loads of tread
Tyres on a caravan rarely wear out the treads due to low mileage, they stand on these in one position all winter, spend a lot of time in the sun and have a tendency to crack around the sidewalls. You never want a blow out on a caravan tyre. Ensure the tyres you buy are the right weight limit.
{ higher than cars as only one axle} and the tyres do not steer so are dragged around bends and corners. Fit new ones after buying van and before going on holiday. Dave

Vulcan190+
12th July 2008, 01:33
Thanks for all your info. I have pulled a trailer all over the place full of camping stuff so i kind of know how a trailer behaves while reversing. Although i know a van is soo much wider and taller. Quite daunting really, but I know me and I am taking delivery on Sunday morning in a large country park with a very big car park, so i will have a few practices reversing etc before I get out on the open road.

I have always enjoyed holidaying in the open air in this country and have a large 6berth frame tent, but sadly the wife has had enough of tent erecting... hehehe. I'm sure we will love our first venture caravanning. At £1900 with everything included, I had to buy it!

Oh, and sorry for for your loss of 12k..... but is it?
To get the one I want... yeah about 12k for it and all the kit (we have nothing anymore)
I'd love to get back to it but I fear it's a bit pie in the sky... not going to happen really.
Reversing always takes you by surprise every time you do it.:lol: then you settle in and just do it. Just think about where you want it to go and move the car accordingly.. you'll get it. Try to get the instinct rather than try formulas, I have seen nasty crunches with guys who said " I did it how the book said"
We did caravan rallies every other weekend for years, it all became a bit second nature, now I'm not so sure.... lol
Oddly I would love.. and I would organise.. a rally of MGR owners who owned caravans who fancied a weekend away, might even get to borrow the in-laws van for the weekend.
Sunderland airport (near the Nissan factory) is a great place for a rally.

apywell
12th July 2008, 21:37
I agree with everything having towed vans for years, always using a powerful towing vehicle

Stick close to the 100 K noseweight but not above
fit a stabiliser
fit Tyron bands [a puncture or blowout will turn the caravan over without]

+ fit new tyres after purchase even if they look good and have loads of tread
Tyres on a caravan rarely wear out the treads due to low mileage, they stand on these in one position all winter, spend a lot of time in the sun and have a tendency to crack around the sidewalls. You never want a blow out on a caravan tyre. Ensure the tyres you buy are the right weight limit.
{ higher than cars as only one axle} and the tyres do not steer so are dragged around bends and corners. Fit new ones after buying van and before going on holiday. Dave


I hear good advice about these Tyron bands. Just been looking up what they are. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good stockist or do any tyre outfit have them?

GrahamP
13th July 2008, 02:15
Think you'll find most caravan dealers that have service facilities will fit them, had mine done 5 years ago.
Another addition you might be interested in is adding a front towing bracket fitted. http://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/Front_Push_Towbars.html

Fits to the left of centre invisible when removable section is off. To get my Coachman back onto the drive I only have 2" clearance each side trying to reverse it in on the back of the car is impossible hooked on the front and pushed in is a piece of cake. The caravan movers can't get it up the slope too steep they just slip or stall.
The other advantage is getting the van off a wet and muddy site, hooked on the back being front wheel drive the wheels just spin, but hooked on the front with the extra nose weight on the front wheels and reversing off is easy.

apywell
13th July 2008, 04:42
Think you'll find most caravan dealers that have service facilities will fit them, had mine done 5 years ago.
Another addition you might be interested in is adding a front towing bracket fitted. http://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/Front_Push_Towbars.html

Fits to the left of centre invisible when removable section is off. To get my Coachman back onto the drive I only have 2" clearance each side trying to reverse it in on the back of the car is impossible hooked on the front and pushed in is a piece of cake. The caravan movers can't get it up the slope too steep they just slip or stall.
The other advantage is getting the van off a wet and muddy site, hooked on the back being front wheel drive the wheels just spin, but hooked on the front with the extra nose weight on the front wheels and reversing off is easy.
Hi Graham. Never heard of these before. Think I'll wait to see how things go. There are always lots of things to buy when first venturing out on something new like this. For example finding a 12v/240v colour TV. After all, I dont want to be chipping into mr Rover 75 servicing funds to kit out my van. It's all exciting stuff.

apywell
13th July 2008, 04:50
To get the one I want... yeah about 12k for it and all the kit (we have nothing anymore)
I'd love to get back to it but I fear it's a bit pie in the sky... not going to happen really.
Reversing always takes you by surprise every time you do it.:lol: then you settle in and just do it. Just think about where you want it to go and move the car accordingly.. you'll get it. Try to get the instinct rather than try formulas, I have seen nasty crunches with guys who said " I did it how the book said"
We did caravan rallies every other weekend for years, it all became a bit second nature, now I'm not so sure.... lol
Oddly I would love.. and I would organise.. a rally of MGR owners who owned caravans who fancied a weekend away, might even get to borrow the in-laws van for the weekend.
Sunderland airport (near the Nissan factory) is a great place for a rally.
I must admit 12k is a lot to spend on a tourer, and not sure if I could justify that myself. I know some are the business and are fantastic, but if a 12k one is pie in the sky couldn't you settle for a more modest one? Or is it like changing a car, move upto better and sometimes more expensive ones?

An airport seems to be an odd place for a rally.

Vulcan190+
13th July 2008, 12:56
Yep I'd have to have better than I had before, that's just me probably. :lol:

Sunderland airport is now the North East Aircraft Museum and has a Vulcan in the grounds. The last rally we had there I had my 'van parked just under the port wing. The grassy area is quite large and you can get a fair few vans there.

http://www.neam.org.uk/

Dilligat
10th July 2010, 13:12
I hope I'm not too late to post on this thread.
I made the mistake of asking the question and now realikse I don't like the answer!!!
I am about to tow a caravan with my 2.0CDT Conn Se manual.

I began to study tow weights, etc and came across stabilizers.

I have a brink detachable towbar and it has a horizontal slot bracket just to lower right of it and the caravan has the horizontal plastic u channel to the right of the a frame when facing the rar of the car similar to this in the photo
http://www.autow.co.uk/AspxPages/image_zoom.aspx?WEB_IMAGE=SH3201.jpg&ProductTxt=SAS+Stabilizer+AL-Ko+Bracket:+For+drilled+chassis

This suggests that the bits are in place for a stabilizer but how do i work out which make of stabilizer bar to get and how do they fit in?

Confused:shrug:

Thanks in anticipation

Steady-Eddie
13th July 2010, 21:54
Welcome to the world of the "Wobble Box".

As has already been suggested, tyres should be changed at 5years of age. You can tell the age by looking for the DOT marking on the side wall. The 4 figures after this show the year and week of manufacture. This site tells you about it http://www.pirelli.co.uk/web/technology/about-tyres/tyre-function/serial-number/default.page

Bought our van last year from a very nice and seemingly genuine guy. Spent the next 7 months rebuilding a wet and rotten shed on wheels. Buyer beware!! Just back from a very enjoyable fortnight in Holland so it was worth it in the end..

This site http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/default.aspwas invaluable when I wanted advise on all aspects of caravanning (and repairs), just like our own club.

Enjoy your new hobby

Dilligat
13th July 2010, 22:04
Welcome to the world of the "Wobble Box".

As has already been suggested, tyres should be changed at 5years of age. You can tell the age by looking for the DOT marking on the side wall. The 4 figures after this show the year and week of manufacture. This site tells you about it http://www.pirelli.co.uk/web/technology/about-tyres/tyre-function/serial-number/default.page

Bought our van last year from a very nice and seemingly genuine guy. Spent the next 7 months rebuilding a wet and rotten shed on wheels. Buyer beware!! Just back from a very enjoyable fortnight in Holland so it was worth it in the end..

This site http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/default.aspwas invaluable when I wanted advise on all aspects of caravanning (and repairs), just like our own club.

Enjoy your new hobby

Thanks this could get out of hand once I start getting into things!!!!!