Seperating front hub/strut

[EastPete]

I have been trying to remove the n/s strut on my car this afternoon, to sort my negative camber issue. Undid the drop link to ARB nut, cracked the lower pinch bolt/hub joint - the top hub pinch bolt put up quite a fight, but came out eventually. Started to tap the hub downwards with a plastic hammer, with a bit of levering under the brake hose bracket - it has gone down about an inch, but I am struggling to move it down further. Any suggestions on how to complete the separation ? I am wary of using too much force in case I damage something or the drive shaft comes out of the gearbox.

Thanks in advance

Pete

[FrenchMike]

Well Pete,seems to remember it's not so easy ...here a Jules'pict who
dismantles the assembly :

http://rovermg1.free.fr/rovermg/thumbnails/x8v7dbQphCwzj2nTPySh.jpg (http://rovermg1.free.fr/rovermg/images/x8v7dbQphCwzj2nTPySh.jpg)

Safer may be ?

Mike

[wullie480]

On a 75 you need to remove the full away as per mikes pic iirc.
Not enough room to remove in situ.

[EastPete]

Thanks Guys

I have always been under the impression that as long as you can get the pinch bolt out (which I have done) , the strut can be removed without removing the whole hub assembly from the car - as per this 'How to' for the strut top bearings : http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=29073

Even if you take the whole strut/hub assembly off the car, you still have the battle of splitting the strut/hub, if you are going to replace the strut.

Cheers

Pete

[FrenchMike]

You know everything ,you only need a bit of luck :}

[Tourist]

Apologies Pete, I forgot to put in my post in the other thread - to get the hub off the strut you've got to separate the hub from the lower ball joint.

Put a Jack under the brake disc and take up a bit of the slack, then put length of chain around the lower suspension arm once you've undone the pinch bolt, then you can pass a long bar underneath, put a bolt through the chain to hold the bar and use the underside of the car to brace the rear of the bar while you push the front of the bar down. There are quite a few meaty bits of suspension you can use down there!

One the hub is free you can leave it on the car, just resting on the lower arm. There is then enough play to get the strut out.

Unclip the three hoses/wires from the tabs on the strut before you do any of that...

Enjoy!

[Daveluck]

Thanks Guys

I have always been under the impression that as long as you can get the pinch bolt out (which I have done) , the strut can be removed without removing the whole hub assembly from the car - as per this 'How to' for the strut top bearings : http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=29073

Even if you take the whole strut/hub assembly off the car, you still have the battle of splitting the strut/hub, if you are going to replace the strut.

Cheers

Pete

Pete,

They definatley do come away without taking the whole hub. That was how I replaced my struts and have just done it again to get the transmission out.

But you have remove the lower wishbone joint where it meets the hub. Plentynof release oil, a chain around it forming a loop, ( careful of the little gator) metal bar into the loop and hearty step down onto the bar.


Edit...doh! Should of read tourists post first...

[EastPete]

Apologies Pete, I forgot to put in my post in the other thread - to get the hub off the strut you've got to separate the hub from the lower ball joint.

Put a Jack under the brake disc and take up a bit of the slack, then put length of chain around the lower suspension arm once you've undone the pinch bolt, then you can pass a long bar underneath, put a bolt through the chain to hold the bar and use the underside of the car to brace the rear of the bar while you push the front of the bar down. There are quite a few meaty bits of suspension you can use down there!

One the hub is free you can leave it on the car, just resting on the lower arm. There is then enough play to get the strut out.

Unclip the three hoses/wires from the tabs on the strut before you do any of that...

Enjoy!
Thanks Simon

As indicated in my first post here, I have already split the hub from the lower ball joint on the wishbone/lower arm by removing the lower pinch bolt and using a chain/bar to pull the lower joint out of the hub. So, I think room is not the main problem, it just the means of persuading the hub to move further down the strut so it will separate.
Any suggestions will be most welcome. !

Cheers

Pete

[Daveluck]

Thanks Simon

As indicated in my first post here, I have already split the hub from the lower ball joint on the wishbone/lower arm by removing the lower pinch bolt and using a chain/bar to pull the lower joint out of the hub. So, I think room is not the main problem, it just the means of persuading the hub to move further down the strut so it will separate.
Any suggestions will be most welcome. !

Cheers

Pete

Pete, in complete ignorance I used a bit of wood and a hammer and gentle persuasion.

Just re checked Haynes, it says widen the clamp ( but not too much) and tap down on hap with hammer and wooden drift.

[RogerHeinz57]

Pete. Thrse are easy to do if the whole leg and hub are removed together noting that the strut to hub carrier pinch bolt needs to be losened off first. The time wasted messing around on other techniques really is a farse. Trying to cut corners isn't worth it in my opinion after trying various techniques. Hope you get it soreted. It will also help if you took the hub nut off to allow the leg out further.....
JohnH.

[anddyy]

A good wack with a lump hammer and it will come off, don't be too afraid they can withstand some punishment, at least mine did when I was doing the wheel bearing at weekend.

[klarzy]

If you can hang on till Sunday I can give you a hand...

[beinet1]

My how to: http://forums.mg-rover.org/mg-zt-rover-75-sponsored-rimmer-bros-90/replaced-my-front-shock-absorbers-how-429651/

[Mike Noc]

I have been trying to remove the n/s strut on my car this afternoon, to sort my negative camber issue. Undid the drop link to ARB nut, cracked the lower pinch bolt/hub joint - the top hub pinch bolt put up quite a fight, but came out eventually.

Look on the bright side Pete - you got the strut pinch bolt out. :}

Despite a good clean up and soaking in penetrating oil, and using an impact gun and surface drive impact sockets mine refused to budge, eventually rounding off the bolt head. :getmecoat:

Next step is to weld a bigger nut on and then I can get the 3/4" drive socket set out, which along with the 5ft scaffold bar should shift it.

Often welding the nut on frees the threads up as they expand a bit with the heat, but we'll see.

This is on Mrs Noc's 75, and this could be the first time it has been undone since coming off the production line. :shrug:

Having had one front spring fail thought I'd change both and fit tyre protectors - every little helps. :D

[RPWC]

When Colin changed my strut bearings,he used a copper hammer to knock the hub assembly off the strut. The top pinch bolt was incredibly tight, but plenty of lube, and just working the bolt back and forward, it came off.

[EastPete]

If you can hang on till Sunday I can give you a hand...

Thanks Pete - I am going to have another go later today, but if I am still struggling, I may take you up on your kind offer. I'll PM you if I need help.

Cheers

Pete

[EastPete]

My how to: http://forums.mg-rover.org/mg-zt-rover-75-sponsored-rimmer-bros-90/replaced-my-front-shock-absorbers-how-429651/

Einar

This is a very nice 'how to' with great pictures and some good tips - many thanks. You do not say how you actually separated the strut from the hub after removing the pinch bolt - this is where I am stuck !

Thanks again

Pete

[EastPete]

Look on the bright side Pete - you got the strut pinch bolt out. :}

Despite a good clean up and soaking in penetrating oil, and using an impact gun and surface drive impact sockets mine refused to budge, eventually rounding off the bolt head. :getmecoat:

Next step is to weld a bigger nut on and then I can get the 3/4" drive socket set out, which along with the 5ft scaffold bar should shift it.

Often welding the nut on frees the threads up as they expand a bit with the heat, but we'll see.

This is on Mrs Noc's 75, and this could be the first time it has been undone since coming off the production line. :shrug:

Having had one front spring fail thought I'd change both and fit tyre protectors - every little helps. :D

Good luck Mike - nice to know someone is going through similar pain at the same time as me !. I will be interested in how the hub/strut split goes for you when you get to that stage.

The top pinch bolt was very stubborn - I cracked it with a 6-sided 15mm socket on a 3 foot breaker bar after a good soak in releasing fluid - but it remained very tight almost to the end, so it was a slow process moving the socket around the breaker bar every quarter turn, and moving it a bit more, until I could start moving it with a long handle ratchet. I think when I do the other side, I might fire up the compressor and try the Ingersoll Rand impact gun to remove it - I did not think it was worth it on this side for one bolt !.

Keep us updated.

Cheers

Pete

[Arctic]

Pete knock a metal wedge into the strut clamp to open it, the strut then should move with a good knock downwards using a piece of wood and a 2lb lump hammer.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2iw2jow.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/2rop1sz.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/2iauexw.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/2hf007s.jpg

[EastPete]

Thanks Steve

I have just been out to the garage, and success !! An overnight soak in more penetrating fluid, and a few taps directly on the hub with the lump hammer got it moving - I know you are not meant to hit the hub directly with a metal hammer, but using wood blocks was not doing anything, and I went fairly gently. I can now see a definite crease in the strut, and I think the bottom is slightly out of line, so I think that probably explains the negative camber problem.

I keep you updated of progress.
Pete

[EastPete]

OK - making progress now- old strut/spring off - fitting up new strut/spring. Have I got the rubber spring isolator on the right way round and in the right place ? I cannot remember exactly how it was when I took it apart, and the diagrams on Rimmers etc. are not very clear.

Thanks

Pete

[EastPete]

Update- I worked out that the spring isolator could only go one way, so the new spring/strut was fitted up quite quickly, and bolted back onto the car (after refitting the drop link). A new battle has commenced - how do I re-unite the hub with the new strut - I cannot get the hub to start going up onto the new strut at all - I have tried jacking under the brake disc etc. but no joy after an hour of struggling.

Perhaps I could loosen strut top bolts to the body, and try to introduce the strut down into the hub ? - perhaps I need thicker wedge to go into the pinch joint on the top of the hub ?

All thoughts, comments, suggestions (rude or otherwise) will be gratefully received.

Cheers

Pete

[milford man]

Doesn't look as though it is going in square. Might just be the angle of the photo.

Regards John

[EastPete]

Doesn't look as though it is going in square. Might just be the angle of the photo.

Regards John

You are probably right, but I have been moving everything about to try to get it aligned and 'started' in the strut, but without success. If I could get the hub nut off (difficult now with the car off the ground, and the hub is not connected to the strut), I would remove the strut and hub and unite them on the floor- should be much easier. I might do that for the other side.

Pete

[EastPete]

Another update - I thought this is never gong to go together without me using brute force and possibly damaging my nice new strut. So I thought the hub will have to come off, so I can re-assemble the strut/hub assembly on the floor, without damaging anything, then refitting it as one lump. I could not shift the hub nut with the hub floating around unattached to the strut, so I popped up the road to my friendly local garage and borrowed their 1100 NM super Milwaukee impact wrench - this had the hub nut off in 5 seconds - an impressive bit of kit. Took off the brake caliper (bolts a bit hard to shift), undid the steering arm joint, disconnected the ABS wire, and removed the hub. Tomorrow I will hopefully unite the strut and hub under relaxed, controlled conditions on the garage floor, then refit the assembly as one. I think I will use this approach fro the other side of the car.

Thanks for all the comments/advice.

Pete

[Daveluck]

I hammered them off and I hammered them on!

Although I did add a liberal amount of copper slip before hand.

I have vowed never to do struts again. I really, really didn't like in pinching and un pinching the springs...

Edit : what I did exactly was lathered with copper slip, started the strut off in the hub, put the jack underneath and applied pressure until the panel work where the top of the strut fits slightly creaked - then hammered it. Tightened up the jack again - hammered it and repeated.

I couldn't move them hub with just the jack.

[Arctic]

Hi Pete.
Some times the metal tag at the rear of the strut will not line up and this will stop it from reinserting, but glad to hear you got it sorted, another how to I must do as I have all the photo's from when we did my sons.

http://i68.tinypic.com/25rjpmg.jpg

[HarryM1BYT]

Einar

This is a very nice 'how to' with great pictures and some good tips - many thanks. You do not say how you actually separated the strut from the hub after removing the pinch bolt - this is where I am stuck !

Thanks again

Pete

Tap the end of a flat bladed screwdriver into the gap, to expand it and free it a little.

[EastPete]

Quite a satisfying, relaxing day today - got the nearside finished. With the hub and strut on the garage floor, applied lots of copper grease to the bottom of the strut and the pinch clamp on the hub, opened out the 'pinch' slightly on the hub with a cold chisel and got the strut 'started' going into the hub with a few gentle taps on the hub with a copper hammer. Once I was happy it was going in straight, I used a large G-clamp between the top of the metal tag on the strut and the hub to pull the strut down into the hub until the strut was level with the bottom of the pinch clamp - to complete the union, it was a few more taps with a copper hammer on the hub to drive it up as far as it would go on the strut, until it meets the 'stop' that is the brake hose bracket. Copper grease on the pinch bolt, which I did up as tight as I could with the standard socket ratchet, then I gave it an extra half turn with the 2 foot breaker bar to make sure it was really tight.

It was then just a case of re-fitting the hub/strut unit to the car - this is heavy lump, so really a two-man job - many thanks to Sam Skelton (aka Captain Slow on this forum) for popping round to help with the refitting. Basically, feed the unit up into the wheel arch, and loosely do up the three nuts holding the top mount to the inner wing, so that it cannot fall down - then re-insert the drive shaft, re-unite the lower hub pinch bolt/lower arm joint, refit brake caliper, re-connect drop link and steering arm - only took us about 20 minutes. I re-fitted the drive shaft nut and did it up as much as my air impact wrench would take it - I'll get this rechecked when the car is back on its wheels. Tidy up the brake hose and ABS wire clips/fixings. I also fitted a tyre protector.

I am definitely going to take the whole strut/hub off the other side to do the O/S strut - I cannot see how the hub/strut can be re-united on the car.

Some photos I took to-day are attached.

Cheers

Pete

[Daveluck]

I am definitely going to take the whole strut/hub off the other side to do the O/S strut - I cannot see how the hub/strut can be re-united on the car



Pete, you had me doubting myself for a minute...but I definatley refitted mine with the driveshaft / hub attached and the strut loosely fitted. I think I had the caliper removed because I replaced the pads but can't see that that would make a difference:shrug:

Edit: blimey, you opened up that split! I just used a screwdriver!

[FrenchMike]

Quite a satisfying, relaxing day today - got the nearside finished. With the hub and strut on the garage floor, applied lots of copper grease to the bottom of the strut and the pinch clamp on the hub, opened out the 'pinch' slightly on the hub with a cold chisel and got the strut 'started' going into the hub with a few gentle taps on the hub with a copper hammer. Once I was happy it was going in straight, I used a large G-clamp between the top of the metal tag on the strut and the hub to pull the strut down into the hub until the strut was level with the bottom of the pinch clamp - to complete the union, it was a few more taps with a copper hammer on the hub to drive it up as far as it would go on the strut, until it meets the 'stop' that is the brake hose bracket. Copper grease on the pinch bolt, which I did up as tight as I could with the standard socket ratchet, then I gave it an extra half turn with the 2 foot breaker bar to make sure it was really tight.

It was then just a case of re-fitting the hub/strut unit to the car - this is heavy lump, so really a two-man job - many thanks to Sam Skelton (aka Captain Slow on this forum) for popping round to help with the refitting. Basically, feed the unit up into the wheel arch, and loosely do up the three nuts holding the top mount to the inner wing, so that it cannot fall down - then re-insert the drive shaft, re-unite the lower hub pinch bolt/lower arm joint, refit brake caliper, re-connect drop link and steering arm - only took us about 20 minutes. I re-fitted the drive shaft nut and did it up as much as my air impact wrench would take it - I'll get this rechecked when the car is back on its wheels. Tidy up the brake hose and ABS wire clips/fixings. I also fitted a tyre protector.

I am definitely going to take the whole strut/hub off the other side to do the O/S strut - I cannot see how the hub/strut can be re-united on the car.

Some photos I took to-day are attached.

Cheers

Pete

Good work,nice picts ,congrats :}
BTW what about your camber issue ?

Mike

[RPWC]

Quite a satisfying, relaxing day today - got the nearside finished. With the hub and strut on the garage floor, applied lots of copper grease to the bottom of the strut and the pinch clamp on the hub, opened out the 'pinch' slightly on the hub with a cold chisel and got the strut 'started' going into the hub with a few gentle taps on the hub with a copper hammer. Once I was happy it was going in straight, I used a large G-clamp between the top of the metal tag on the strut and the hub to pull the strut down into the hub until the strut was level with the bottom of the pinch clamp - to complete the union, it was a few more taps with a copper hammer on the hub to drive it up as far as it would go on the strut, until it meets the 'stop' that is the brake hose bracket. Copper grease on the pinch bolt, which I did up as tight as I could with the standard socket ratchet, then I gave it an extra half turn with the 2 foot breaker bar to make sure it was really tight.

It was then just a case of re-fitting the hub/strut unit to the car - this is heavy lump, so really a two-man job - many thanks to Sam Skelton (aka Captain Slow on this forum) for popping round to help with the refitting. Basically, feed the unit up into the wheel arch, and loosely do up the three nuts holding the top mount to the inner wing, so that it cannot fall down - then re-insert the drive shaft, re-unite the lower hub pinch bolt/lower arm joint, refit brake caliper, re-connect drop link and steering arm - only took us about 20 minutes. I re-fitted the drive shaft nut and did it up as much as my air impact wrench would take it - I'll get this rechecked when the car is back on its wheels. Tidy up the brake hose and ABS wire clips/fixings. I also fitted a tyre protector.

I am definitely going to take the whole strut/hub off the other side to do the O/S strut - I cannot see how the hub/strut can be re-united on the car.

Some photos I took to-day are attached.

Cheers

Pete
All you need is a trolley jack under the disc, jack it up so the hub is lined with the bottom of the strut, then if its lined up correctly, jack up a few cms at a time, then just tap the hub up with a copper hammer ,jack up again ,tap with the hammer, this process needs to be repeated a few times until the hub eventually sides on to the bottom of the strut. It would be easier if you had an assistant to operate the jack, while you concentrate on lining up the hub.
This is the process Colin and I used when he was refitting the strut,after changing the top bearings.

[EastPete]

Good work,nice picts ,congrats :}
BTW what about your camber issue ?

Mike

Mike - there was a crease and quite a kink in the bottom of the strut I removed, so I think this probably explains the camber problem - when I have done both sides, it will go back to the garage for the front end tracking to be re-done. I do not know exactly how the strut got bent, possibilities are some previous minor accident damage or the hanging of the gearbox weight off the spring whilst doing a clutch change (not advisable !).

Cheers

Pete

[EastPete]

All you need is a trolley jack under the disc, jack it up so the hub is lined with the bottom of the strut, then if its lined up correctly, jack up a few cms at a time, then just tap the hub up with a copper hammer ,jack up again ,tap with the hammer, this process needs to be repeated a few times until the hub eventually sides on to the bottom of the strut. It would be easier if you had an assistant to operate the jack, while you concentrate on lining up the hub.
This is the process Colin and I used when he was refitting the strut,after changing the top bearings.

Thanks Rich for this explanation - I can see how it might work with two people, but I would think the drive shaft would get in the way of hitting the hub with the copper hammer. So I think I will use the full strut/hub assembly off the car method for the other side - it may involve more dismantling, but it is a less stressful way of doing it, and there is less risk of damage to the new strut.

Cheers

Pete

[Tourist]

Glad you got it sorted Pete - I just logged into the forum to check how you got on.

I bet the car is driving a bit better now? Mine was a lot more sure-footed when I'd got the camber corrected by doing this job.

I can confirm that it is possible to have the hub in situ when refitting the new shock - I did it that way a week before you. I was having difficulties in getting it all to line up until I turned the steering to the straight-ahead position. It all slotted in nicely then.

The only problem I had was getting the bottom balljoint into the botom of the hub, but a jack on the bottom of the brake disc helped to get it all lined up. The other thing that was a bit of a fiddle was once I'd got the bottom of the shock absorber into the hub, the driveshaft needed a bit of a twist and push to relocate it into the gearbox.

I'm only writing about that in case someone searches for this thread later on - it might help them.

Oh - and I also managed to put a nick in the rubber gaiter on the bottom ball joint so maybe if I had removed the hub like you did I wouldn't have done that. That's a small job I've got to do next time I've got that wheel off.

Nice pics BTW - very shiny droplink!

[EastPete]

Thanks Simon - the car is not actually back on the road - I am doing the other side as well. I was busy over the weekend, so only managed to get the o/s strut/hub off last night and split it on the floor- much easier - only took about an hour. I hope to finish it off over the next couple of days, and get the front tracking re-checked.

I was careful not to let the hub 'fall away' when I was trying the 'in situ' method, so that the driveshaft did not pull out of the gearbox- I think everything is back in the right place.

The drop links are my recently fitted Meyle items - not the cheapest, so I hope they will last.
Cheers
Pete

(BTW - in one of my other lives as a jazz trumpeter, I have been known to play the Wednesday night gig at the Six Bells, Fulbourn).

[EastPete]

Quick update - the o/s strut/spring change is now almost complete. On this side, the strut and hub came apart quite easily on the floor, with just light taps from the copper hammer, and putting it back together, the strut almost went back in with just hand pressure. Perhaps on this side, I might have got away with doing the strut change with the hub still on the car. In contrast to the n/s, the new spring did not want to go on the new strut - my spring compressors kept slipping (must get some better ones), and I could not get it compressed enough to get the top plate on - so my local garage came to the rescue again - they stuck the spring on their heavy duty compressor, and had it all together in five minutes.

I think this shows that there is an element of pot luck in doing these jobs on our cars- there are different tolerances on different components on different cars, so what may work on one car may not work on another, and it is case of finding out what works for you.

I just need to fit the o/s tyre protector, get the car back on its wheels, torque up the driveshaft nuts, then hit the road. I'll get the front tracking redone later this week.

Pete

[MWMan]

Pete

I am just about take the struts out on mine to do the top bearings. This detailed post of yours has been very helpful. Many thanks.

[EastPete]

Thanks John

Are you going to take the whole hub/strut off as one unit, or split the strut/hub on the car ?

My o/s strut bearing was in pieces when I took the spring off- might explain the occasional knock I got from that side of the car.

Good luck - make sure you have some good spring compressors (I have just ordered some Sealey 'double hook' ones off Amazon for under 20 quid, that I hope will be better than the ones I have).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK3841-2-inch-Spring-Compressor/dp/B00K1UJNES?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385721_137004231_TE_item

if you have any problems - give us a shout.

Cheers

Pete

[MWMan]

Thanks Pete

Until I saw your post I had planned to split the strut / hub, but I'm going to remove the whole lot now. The only thing I worry about is pulling the drive shaft out of the auto gear box, while I'm trying to remove the hub.

I was thinking of tying a ratchet strap around it and holding it in place - or am I worrying needlessly?

I have that same set of Spring compressors which are quite good.


John

[EastPete]

Thanks Pete

Until I saw your post I had planned to split the strut / hub, but I'm going to remove the whole lot now. The only thing I worry about is pulling the drive shaft out of the auto gear box, while I'm trying to remove the hub.

I was thinking of tying a ratchet strap around it and holding it in place - or am I worrying needlessly?

I have that same set of Spring compressors which are quite good.


John

John

If you are careful, and using the method I did of taking the whole strut/hub off as one lump, the drive shafts should stay firmly in the gearbox. Crack the drive shaft nuts whilst the car is still on the ground (I needed a 3 foot breaker bar on my o/s one to get it to shift), then once you have the car jacked up and the drop link/ steering arm/brake caliper/lower pinch bolt connections are 'severed', wind off the drive shaft nut fully, and the hub should just pull off the drive shafts - mine came away easily - if yours seems seized at all try tapping the ends with a rubber/plastic hammer to separate the splines from the hub. If the worst comes to the worst, you could use a wheel hub puller to split the hub from the drive shaft splines, but this should not be necessary.

If you are just doing the strut top bearings, you do not need to disturb the hub/strut pinch bolt - if you do decide to split the hub/strut off the car, crack the pinch bolt and loosen it several turns whilst the strut/hub is still bolted to the car - you will never shift it on the garage floor - they are pretty stubborn !

I will be interested in how the spring compressors work.

I have just finished off my car this evening, and taken it for a short drive up the road - the tracking is way out, as it is pulling to the left, but I will get this sorted later this week. The ride is nice and smooth however, with none of the knocks I had before, and the car sits higher and more level at the front - the cambers look much better, with none of the 'splayed' or 'knock-knee'd' appearance I had before. So, I think once the tracking is re-set, the car should handle and ride much better.

Keep us posted

Pete

[Tourist]

Glad you've got it sorted Pete - I hadn't noticed that you were from this part of the world.

Please do give me a shout if/when you're next playing at the Six Bells - it's my local! We'll come down and listen.

[MWMan]

John

If you are careful, and using the method I did of taking the whole strut/hub off as one lump, the drive shafts should stay firmly in the gearbox. Crack the drive shaft nuts whilst the car is still on the ground (I needed a 3 foot breaker bar on my o/s one to get it to shift), then once you have the car jacked up and the drop link/ steering arm/brake caliper/lower pinch bolt connections are 'severed', wind off the drive shaft nut fully, and the hub should just pull off the drive shafts - mine came away easily - if yours seems seized at all try tapping the ends with a rubber/plastic hammer to separate the splines from the hub. If the worst comes to the worst, you could use a wheel hub puller to split the hub from the drive shaft splines, but this should not be necessary.

If you are just doing the strut top bearings, you do not need to disturb the hub/strut pinch bolt - if you do decide to split the hub/strut off the car, crack the pinch bolt and loosen it several turns whilst the strut/hub is still bolted to the car - you will never shift it on the garage floor - they are pretty stubborn !

I will be interested in how the spring compressors work.

I have just finished off my car this evening, and taken it for a short drive up the road - the tracking is way out, as it is pulling to the left, but I will get this sorted later this week. The ride is nice and smooth however, with none of the knocks I had before, and the car sits higher and more level at the front - the cambers look much better, with none of the 'splayed' or 'knock-knee'd' appearance I had before. So, I think once the tracking is re-set, the car should handle and ride much better.

Keep us posted

Pete

Thanks again for the additional advice. I have used those spring compressors on my other car (a V70) to change the struts on there. They worked really well.

In regard to the tracking, I bought myself the Trackace system and now use that to check and adjust the tracking on my cars. It will pay for itself in no time and you know exactly what you are getting on your car.

[jonathan63]

Thanks again for the additional advice. I have used those spring compressors on my other car (a V70) to change the struts on there. They worked really well.

In regard to the tracking, I bought myself the Trackace system and now use that to check and adjust the tracking on my cars. It will pay for itself in no time and you know exactly what you are getting on your car.

Can you use the Trackace for rear wheels as well as front? I think my car is crabbing a bit.

[MWMan]

Can you use the Trackace for rear wheels as well as front? I think my car is crabbing a bit.

I am just coming to the end of a rear end overhaul on my Tourer in which I have removed the trailing arms to check the bushes. The trailing arm support bracket is where the tracking for the rear wheels is adjusted. I carefully marked the brackets before taking them off, but I will use the Trackace to check the Toe angle when done.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=59999&d=1465979648


http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=60000&d=1465979699

The system just measures the total toe angle across 2 wheels - Front or back. Of course that Total toe angle needs to be split across the centre line of the car.

I also bought this little item to check the camber on my wheels https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002WMRWT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[DMGRS]

Give those brackets a clean and paint - they're not available new anymore. :(

[MWMan]

Give those brackets a clean and paint - they're not available new anymore. :(

Thanks Mat - I did. Cleaned all the rust off using this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p10332?table=no. Amazing piece of kit.

Treated them with Krust and then Hammerite. They are robust chunks of metal, but without this treatment I'm not sure they would have lasted another 15 years!!

[pletevl]

should have dipped them in bilt hamber deox rust remover. kurust is pants.

[AndyRoverK]

Electrolytic derusting is a good method, athough not so quick just leave 24hrs in solution and then wash and dry (leave on radiator..) before applying your favourite concoctions

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

Regards

Andy

[MWMan]

Can you use the Trackace for rear wheels as well as front? I think my car is crabbing a bit.

An update: I have just finished the back end overhaul, including the removal and refitting of the trailing arms. As I mentioned, I marked the trailing arm brackets prior to removal so they could go back on in the same place.

Just checked the tracking after rechecking all the torques while on the road wheels.

Rear Toe in should be 0.37° +/- 0.25° or 22' +/- 15' The actual reading was 18'. This is well with the tolerance so I am leaving it as is.

[FrenchMike]

Have a look:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=229633


Mike

[trev420]

do I have to remove the whole of the hub to change the cv gaiter

[Arctic]

do I have to remove the whole of the hub to change the cv gaiter


Hi Trev.
No just separate the hub from the drive shaft, you can purchase a funnel which helps fit a CV gaiter. ;)

[David Lawrence]

do I have to remove the whole of the hub to change the cv gaiter

Just make sure you have a big torque wrench for doing the nut back up. The fronts are much tighter than the rears and this caught me out.

[Tony-F]

To split and remove top of the strut, this should explain it all (and make it look easier than it is....)
https://reader.haynes.com/en-gb/cars/rover/75/1999-2005/front-suspension-strut-replacement/?_ga=2.43973157.1056594904.1561218223-2051845760.1561218223

[drewbie]

Pete

Nice breakdown of the job, just about to do mine. Could you please confirm the hub to driveshaft nut is 32 A/F, also did you experience any problems reintroducing the bottom ball joint into the hub using the strut/hub together removal method.
Thanks, Drew.

[alanaslan]

Pete



Nice breakdown of the job, just about to do mine. Could you please confirm the hub to driveshaft nut is 32 A/F, also did you experience any problems reintroducing the bottom ball joint into the hub using the strut/hub together removal method.

Thanks, Drew.



Hi Drew.
Don’t know why this popped up on the page I was looking at.
Answer to your question is yes it’s a 32mm AF nut usually with a chisel tab that you will need to fold back up before undoing. This is one of the few jobs my 3/4 drive socket set comes out for
Alan


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