Rover 75 1.8T fuel pump

[Preacher]

A couple of weeks ago i started my car and while cleaning the windscreen my engine cut out, just sounded like someone had turned the ignition off, i tried to restart but no luck, the engine just turned over but would not start, the garage managed to run it by putting clean fuel directly in the engine, so they say it needs a new petrol pump (they have checked the filter after reading forums and tell me it's not that issue) plus my car only has one fuel pump, my question is where can i get tested used pump from? i can see loads online but not sure if they are right for my car

Many thanks

[GeoffWW]

Hi Preacher,

My first "75" was a 1.8T and I had exactly the same trouble. - Ok one night, next morning - starter motor turned the engine over but it would not fire at all.

What year is your car? Mine was a 2002 Tourer. After having it transported to my local dealer, - this was about 2005/6 - and I had a Lumley breakdown insurance on it , I got it back, all running fine again.

It was only later that I found out, on this forum, about the fuel filter's tendency to fall apart and the need for the now 'Forum-famous' "orange clip" holding the filter together. You don't mention the clip in your searching. This could be the solution to your problem. There are lots of entries and, I think, a "How to" covering the clip.

[T-Cut]

The 1.8T fuel pump is generally regarded as very robust. I've not read of one failing so far. What you describe sounds very much like Fuel Filter Syndrome (FFS) to me. The fix, as you know is the Fabled Orange Clip (FOC). In spite of the garage's inspection, my money is on FFS.

Simple Test
Put your ear to the open fuel filler neck and get as assistant to turn on the ignition. You shoud hear the pump hum for a few seconds then stop. If so, it's FFS. Also be aware that repeated attempts to start a car with FFS will result in the petrol being trasfered to the left side of the tank. When that happens the pump can't get any juice anyway.

TC

[GeoffWW]

.. Just looked through the How-to's.

The "FOC" How to" is currently the bottom line entry on page 4 for the Engine and Technical 'How-to's'.There are pictures showing the clip and the various stages of access and fitting the clip.

[milford man]

The 1.8T fuel pump is generally regarded as very robust. I've not read of one failing so far. What you describe sounds very much like Fuel Filter Syndrome (FFS) to me. The fix, as you know is the Fabled Orange Clip (FOC). In spite of the garage's inspection, my money is on FFS.

Simple test. Put your ear to the open fuel filler neck and get as assistant to turn on the ignition. You shoud hear the pump hum for a few seconds then stop. If so, it's FFS. Also be aware that repeated attempts to start a car with FFS will result in the petrol being trasfered to the left side of the tank. When that happens the pump can't get any juice anyway.

TC
Could be FFS but I know of two people on here that have had fuel pump issues on their 1.8T's. One was Lovel the other was John & Chris. So it might be the pump.

regards John

[Preacher]

Hi guys, thanks for the info, I mentioned this to the garage and they have said they have checked the fuel filter and that my car does not have this clip issue, now i know nothing about cars, it goes wrong i send it to the garage i don't even change batteries, but they have said it's not this issue as they have read the forums and understand it, i really have to go by what they said.

[Preacher]

Hi John
Thanks for the info.

Cheers

Chris

[milford man]

Heres the thread for John & Chris http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=202688&highlight=1.8t+pump

The 1.8T fuel pump is different from the 1.8 NA so if it is the pump make sure you get the right one.

Regards John

Correct pump is WFX000290 (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-WFX000290)

[T-Cut]

- - - I know nothing about cars, it goes wrong I send it to the garage - - -

You can certainly do the Simple Test I suggesed in Post 3 and report back with result. Be sure of what you need before handing over wads of cash.

TC

[GeoffWW]

Chris,

Referring to your entry #6:-

Has your garage actually taken the filter out and checked it's current state. The "FOC" was developed after the pump body came away from it's top, to hold the two parts together. From the pictures in the "How-to" I referred to, if you did not know what you were looking for, the partial separation of the two could easily be missed.

[muggerbee]

Chris,

Referring to your entry #6:-

Has your garage actually taken the filter out and checked it's current state. The "FOC" was developed after the pump body came away from it's top, to hold the two parts together. From the pictures in the "How-to" I referred to, if you did not know what you were looking for, the partial separation of the two could easily be missed.

Just FYI, mine looked totally fine. It was only after opening the tank for the second time i noticed the ribs were a couple of MMs out of alignment. Easy thing not to notice.

[GeoffWW]

Thanks Muggerebee for your added contribution,

That is exactly what I mean. Without the addition of the "FOC", the whole of the
join between the top and the sidewall needs to be carefully checked.

Your few mm's of separation, even with no separation on the other side of the circumference stops the fuel transfer system.

[T-Cut]

Without the addition of the "FOC", the whole of the join between the top and the sidewall needs to be carefully checked.


If not already in place, the clip should be fitted as part of the filter check. It's a recommended default action. To open up the tank, examine the filter, maybe tighten it up and then replace everything without fitting a clip seems to me rather futile. The benefit in assurance alone is immense.

TC

[GeoffWW]

Have sent you a pm, just before seeing T-Cut's last post above.

[milford man]

I'm with you T-Cut. So easy to tell if the pump is running (as you have already advised). If you can hear the pump then 99% sure its FFS.

Regards John

[Lovel]

Get back to basics.

Your garage should carry out a Fuel pressure test with the ignition switched on to position 2.

A gauge with a Schrader type fitting screws onto the nearside of the inlet manifold just below the throttle body.