Front door glass alignment

[T16]

SO I replaced my front door glass as it was scratched to hell.

Went in fine, pulled it up in the channels as hard as I could, brought the mechanism up with the electric switch, and clamped the bolts tight.

However, right at the top when it stops, I notice a creaking from the motor/mech at the bottom of the door, and I notice the top edge of the trim right at the top of the door lift a fraction of a mm.

I checked the alignment in RAVE, and it seems like a ludicrous process with gauges and stuff, loosening off a load of bolts that I have never touched.

How does everyone else manage? Window goes up and down fine, I guess what Im asking is whether there is any vertical adjustment necessary, or can you really just pull the glass up to its stop point in the frame, wind the mech up to meet it, and just clamp up?

[dad1uk]

Just replaced both of my front windows with help from members at the latest West Midlands Nano Meet........
When we refitted the glass, we placed the glass in the clamps and pulled it to the rear and clamped it. Both times the window went straight up and down with no problem and no strain to the motor.
Perhaps we were just lucky but we did spend time cleaning out the edges of the guides.
Hope you get sorted........

[T16]

Anyone else? Vertical Adjustment not necessary?

Just fit the glass in, pull it up as high as it can go... and then wind the mech up to meet the bottom of the glass and tighten??

[klarzy]

Put the glass in loose, raise window to top by motor or handle, jiggle glass during last bit with one hand either side of glass, palms pressed together.
Tighten clamps through access holes near top of door body.

Lower and raise to test..

[T16]

Put the glass in loose, raise window to top by motor or handle, jiggle glass during last bit with one hand either side of glass, palms pressed together.
Tighten clamps through access holes near top of door body.

Lower and raise to test..

OK cheers pal..

So there is no way the motor can strain to close it too much? It has some sort of pressure cut out that recognises the window is at the right "tightness" ? I read in some cars there are stops and stuff to adjust the travel....

Reason i ask is that the glass is in fine.... up and down nae problems.... just that right at the end of the travel, the cable thing right next to the motor at the bottom of the door makes a creaking sound, like its trying to go too tight or something... just me being paranoid...

[clf]

I have done this on a few cars, but not the 75/ZT. When removing the glass, I have lowered it to roughly half way, then removed the glass. Refitting it, I didnt move the regulator. Tightened the glass to the clamps finger tight, and released by about an eighth of a turn. Raise the glass, and any adjustment required is automatic, lower again and tighten.

In a B4 Passat, when I replaced the regulator, it would strain as it reached the top. As it raised it pulled on the rubber at the bottom of the channels inside the door. With the window half way up, I was able to tug the rubber into the corner of the door frame, pulling it up. I still dont understand why, I would have thought the window would have pulled the rubber into place. It didnt, but rather stretched the rubber. So, check the rubber at the bottom of the channel is seated securely. (on both sides)

[klarzy]

OK cheers pal..

So there is no way the motor can strain to close it too much? It has some sort of pressure cut out that recognises the window is at the right "tightness" ? I read in some cars there are stops and stuff to adjust the travel....

Reason i ask is that the glass is in fine.... up and down nae problems.... just that right at the end of the travel, the cable thing right next to the motor at the bottom of the door makes a creaking sound, like its trying to go too tight or something... just me being paranoid...

Your cable / drum is worn or corroded... Get a used in off of here...

[T16]

OK thats for another time.

More pressing matters with making the car usable.

As long as you guys think ive done the right thing, and the motor "realises" its reached the end of travel when it senses it, Im all good I guess.

Next on the list is A/C tensioner making a racket, and new steering column, then try and find a spare summit (herringbone pattern seat with grey stiching) base, then all should be good, with a pair of replacement front windscreen trims also.

Oh dear.... There is always a list with these cars!!

Having said that, I drove long distance in a new Insignia Estate recently, averaged 64mpg over 1100miles, that was at 70+ too for a lot of the way. Things have moved on!! Brakes were dangerous and the handling was so poor it was like being in a Ferry, but hey ho... the engine was alright :)