LPG Conversion ?

[Rev Jules]

I have a LPG Limo, now! There is a small square gauge in the car with, four green lights , a small G on the lower left hand side this light is flashing, and a fuel pump on the right hand side, with a push button in the middle which turns it off.

With no previous experience of this fuel system, how can I tell what all this means, and how do I tell when and if the car is using the LPG system.
Any insight would be gratefully received.

Rev

[berkshirelad]

From experience, the small G means gas (rather than petrol) and you have 4 LEDs to indicate the state of the tank fill. All on when full.

If gas is selected, the car may start of petrol and then switch to gas when revved - if this is the case, and you intend to run mainly on gas, keep the petrol level low as unleaded goes 'off' fairly quickly.

I am sure that others will be along shortly with more experience than I.

[M74]

4 greens means your lpg tank is full. The button in the middle switches from running on petrol to running on gas. The flashing light on the left means gas is switched on, when the engine is warm this will change to steady yellow and you'll be running on gas. To go back to petrol press the square in the middle.
geoff

[Rev Jules]

Many thanks to you both explained quite a lot.

Rev

[StewartIngram]

Bear in mind that these lpg gauges are notoriously inaccurate., Also, if like mine, they can be (sort of) "calibrated" at the tank. Mine was incorrect and showed well over 1/4 tank when empty. At this point it reverts back to petrol. I've just transferred everything over to the replacement car, apart from fitting the fuel pipe from rear to front. When done I might calibrate it, though I tend to run on a reset of mileage trip to zero when filling up, and getting 200miles from a full tank with some spare.
Have you tried starting it? If there is a fault so that lpg won't run, you will get a bleeping sound. One press of the button will cancel it, two will switch it back to petrol.
Any further problems please ask.

Stewart

[Rev Jules]

Bear in mind that these lpg gauges are notoriously inaccurate., Also, if like mine, they can be (sort of) "calibrated" at the tank. Mine was incorrect and showed well over 1/4 tank when empty. At this point it reverts back to petrol. I've just transferred everything over to the replacement car, apart from fitting the fuel pipe from rear to front. When done I might calibrate it, though I tend to run on a reset of mileage trip to zero when filling up, and getting 200miles from a full tank with some spare.
Have you tried starting it? If there is a fault so that lpg won't run, you will get a bleeping sound. One press of the button will cancel it, two will switch it back to petrol.
Any further problems please ask.

Stewart


I have just been out and tried it, got all four lights up and petrol logo flashing, I presume when that light stopped flashing the car is running on gas.

Rev

[Arryhall]

Right-oh! First off, go under the bonnet and check if there is a plastic bottle labelled "Flashlube". This is important. This is, in fact, THE most important thing you need to do! Always, and I mean ALWAYS make sure that is full, or has flashube in and is working. Mine wasn't, and the valves and valve seats in my Honda have burnt out. LPG burns hotter and drier than petrol and without that lube, the engine dies. My Honda has done less than 90,000 miles and the engine is knackered, all because the flashlube wasn't working properly.

As LPG is a gas, it is almost impossible for the gauges to be accurate. Fill up with LPG, reset your trip, drive until the lpg starts beeping and flashing at you (which means it has autoamtically reverted to petrol) and note the distance. This will be your gauge, as mine said full for 110 miles then immediately to 1 bar, then after 120 miles, red! My tank lasted 225 miles, and 270 on a run, so just ignore it!

When you start the car, it always starts on petrol as LPG needs a sot engine. So, start the car, the orange light (usually on the right) flashes. This means you are on Petrol, which is the green light on the right. (some systems, this colour is reversed which is odd!) Once warm, mine was about 1/3 up the gauge, it automatically goes to LPG, which you can sometimes hear the relays click over. Now you are on cheap gas. If you want to, for whatever reason, ht the button in the middle and it goes to petrol, which will mean the light on the right hand side of the square will light, mine goes green when on just petrol. I did this when out, ran out of gas and couldn't find anywhere to fill up. When full of LPG again (and check the flashlube level!), press the button and you'll pop back on lpg automatically. It may not do so when stationary as it does require a rev limit to activate. Mine was set around 1100 rpm, but once on, that's it.

Filling takes ages compared to petrol though, so try not to be in a rush when you fill up. Also, there are LPG finder apps available that show you where the lpg places are and how much it costs. Shell does it but is about 29p a liter more expensive than somewhere like Autogas. (another name for lpg is autogas, so if you see a sign for that, it is the same thing).

I'd have lpg again for the cost saving, and if I were able, I'd transfer mine from them honda to my Rover, but I'm inept, and can't afford to pay someone to do it for me. BUT I'd make sure I got that damned Flashlube issue sorted!!!!!!!

[Rev Jules]

[QUOTE=Arryhall;2462570]Right-oh! First off, go under the bonnet and check if there is a plastic bottle labelled "Flashlube". This is important. This is, in fact, THE most important thing you need to do! Always, and I mean ALWAYS make sure that is full, or has flashube in and is working. Mine wasn't, and the valves and valve seats in my Honda have burnt out. LPG burns hotter and drier than petrol and without that lube, the engine dies. My Honda has done less than 90,000 miles and the engine is knackered, all because the flashlube wasn't working properly.

As LPG is a gas, it is almost impossible for the gauges to be accurate. Fill up with LPG, reset your trip, drive until the lpg starts beeping and flashing at you (which means it has autoamtically reverted to petrol) and note the distance. This will be your gauge, as mine said full for 110 miles then immediately to 1 bar, then after 120 miles, red! My tank lasted 225 miles, and 270 on a run, so just ignore it!

When you start the car, it always starts on petrol as LPG needs a sot engine. So, start the car, the orange light (usually on the right) flashes. This means you are on Petrol, which is the green light on the right. (some systems, this colour is reversed which is odd!) Once warm, mine was about 1/3 up the gauge, it automatically goes to LPG, which you can sometimes hear the relays click over. Now you are on cheap gas. If you want to, for whatever reason, ht the button in the middle and it goes to petrol, which will mean the light on the right hand side of the square will light, mine goes green when on just petrol. I did this when out, ran out of gas and couldn't find anywhere to fill up. When full of LPG again (and check the flashlube level!), press the button and you'll pop back on lpg automatically. It may not do so when stationary as it does require a rev limit to activate. Mine was set around 1100 rpm, but once on, that's it.

Filling takes ages compared to petrol though, so try not to be in a rush when you fill up. Also, there are LPG finder apps available that show you where the lpg places are and how much it costs. Shell does it but is about 29p a liter more expensive than somewhere like Autogas. (another name for lpg is autogas, so if you see a sign for that, it is the same thing).

I'd have lpg again for the cost saving, and if I were able, I'd transfer mine from them honda to my Rover, but I'm inept, and can't afford to pay someone to do it for me. BUT I'd make sure I got that damned Flashlube issue sorted!!!!!!![/QUOTE

No ain't got one of them.

Rev

[Astraeus]

Our engines do not need flashlube. Perfectly OK to run without it. I did 60000 miles on my previous 1.8 without issue.

Chris

[Arryhall]

Our engines do not need flashlube. Perfectly OK to run without it. I did 60000 miles on my previous 1.8 without issue.

Chris
Not from what the lpg service guy told me. My car was supposedly capable of running fine without a valve saver with the system I had fitted, but the service guy said one was installed because in his experience, all cars needed it. I never worried as my car supposedly didn't need the added lube but it has killed itself. When I got the car, with the lpg system in, it wouldn't run at all on gas! The mechanic had wound the exhaust valves all the way in, and as lpg is much more sensitive to things than petrol, it just couldn't work on gas. Hence the very expensive lpg service guy with whom I had long discussions. Wouldn't personally risk pg without flashlube again as it turned into a very very expensive problem. Still, bright side and all, I now have a Rover 75!:D

[StewartIngram]

I did ask TinleyTech about flashlube many years ago, both on the earlier (Honda) Rover 827s, and the Rover (KV6) and he said it wasn't necessary. The 827s I had for many years and miles no problem. The gold 75 I ran from 60k to about 225 k miles also no problem. I've just transferred everything from the gold 75 to my replacement blue one, only got the fuel pipe to do now but back on shift for 4 days. The 827 was one of the easiest cars ever to convert, with a single point injection system. The 75, which I converted about 8-9 years ago, has a multi injector system.
There is a lot of mis-truth about in lpg-world! It is a very simple concept and I've experienced (first hand sometimes) many expert comments that I've proved wrong. Anyone with spanner skills, common sense, and a little patience can convert to lpg. Safety must be paramount however, just as with petrol, no bodging. I managed, and have taught myself how to maintain it and fault find, so it must be ok!

Stewart

[minimutly]

I did ask TinleyTech about flashlube many years ago, both on the earlier (Honda) Rover 827s, and the Rover (KV6) and he said it wasn't necessary. The 827s I had for many years and miles no problem. The gold 75 I ran from 60k to about 225 k miles also no problem. I've just transferred everything from the gold 75 to my replacement blue one, only got the fuel pipe to do now but back on shift for 4 days. The 827 was one of the easiest cars ever to convert, with a single point injection system. The 75, which I converted about 8-9 years ago, has a multi injector system.
There is a lot of mis-truth about in lpg-world! It is a very simple concept and I've experienced (first hand sometimes) many expert comments that I've proved wrong. Anyone with spanner skills, common sense, and a little patience can convert to lpg. Safety must be paramount however, just as with petrol, no bodging. I managed, and have taught myself how to maintain it and fault find, so it must be ok!

Stewart
All sensible, and correct. I converted mine 80,000 miles ago, its never missed a beat. Yes there really is some mistruthes around about lpg, mostly by people who either don't know or ar afraid to take the plunge and therefore try to justify this by talking it down. Some engines do need flashlube, the ks will do astronomical mileage without it, well as much as they might without it anyway.
The float in the tank connected to the gauge should work reasonably well, but callibrating is normally close to impossible. I tried bending mine, and while it was accurate at the lower ends, it would prevent filling past 50%, so I gave up and went on mileage. Oh, dont be surprised to see your petrol gauge go down when on gas!

[badrover]

Yes, agreed, I did well over 100k in my 1.8 on LPG. Flashlube not needed. The K gets plenty of ribbing but they love LPG in my experience.

[fandango151]

Agree 100%. There was a factory approved kit which had no flashlube and no modifications to engine like a different head (like fords iirc).

There is general thought Jap engines are more prone to valve seat recession. My v6 75 did over 50k. The trick is not to let them run lean passed the point where they run open loop (higher revs).

As my current Chrysler is an unknown I fitted electronic flashlube (it's not flashlube but the brc equivalent). Not keen on vac feed kits as they don't flow any lube when throttle is open.

[klarzy]

Run the LPG empty
hold the button for 7 seconds in the middle while turning the key to POS II
Fill the tank with LPG

the gauge should now be calibrated...

I get 200 miles + from a 50 Ltr tank on a 3.0V6 Auto lexus rx.

[fandango151]

Run the LPG empty
hold the button for 7 seconds in the middle while turning the key to POS II
Fill the tank with LPG

the gauge should now be calibrated...

I get 200 miles + from a 50 Ltr tank on a 3.0V6 Auto lexus rx.

Depends on system make. Never heard of this but limited knowledge on multiple types. Most need software and cable.

[Arryhall]

I'm not mechanically minded or skilled, so I'll admit I took advice from a guy who seemed to know the systems. As for setting one up, I wouldn't have a clue! The problem is the sheer cost of getting a system fitted. Why pay £3000 to fit an lpg system to a £1000 car? I'd do it myself but I'd blow the car and myself up!
It is a cheap system to run provided it's set up correctly. Which mine obviously wasn't. :'(

[berkshirelad]

As LPG is a gas,


It's a liquid in the tank

Hence Liquified Petroleum Gas

[Arryhall]

It's a liquid in the tank

Hence Liquified Petroleum Gas

Oh yeah. It's been a long week. I did tell you I ain't a mechanic. :p:

I did like my car running on gas though, simply because of the price filling up. Just wish there were more and decent gas setter-upperers around here, and fitting didn't cost the earth.

[minimutly]

I don't see why fitting it to a £1000 car is an issue provided you intend to keep it for at least 2 years (also depends on mileage I guess). Anyway, the sums are simple.

[Arryhall]

If I could afford a £5000 car, I'd get one that was efficient enough to not bother with the added mither of LPG, but I'm rather short of funds these days with one thing and another. £3000 system plus the fitting of about £1000, you would need to do a LOT of miles before you broke even, let alone saved money. And the cost of having it set up and serviced is...around here anyway, insane. And my old system was obviously set wrong and killed me poor car. :(

[fandango151]

If I could afford a £5000 car, I'd get one that was efficient enough to not bother with the added mither of LPG, but I'm rather short of funds these days with one thing and another. £3000 system plus the fitting of about £1000, you would need to do a LOT of miles before you broke even, let alone saved money. And the cost of having it set up and serviced is...around here anyway, insane. And my old system was obviously set wrong and killed me poor car. :(

It's all about installer more so than kit. OP will have many years of motoring with a K on gas so long as it is serviced and remember if anybody tried to tell you the engine management light is normal on LPG - walk away.

A factor not accounted for is a well cared for guzzler can be purchased ALOT cheaper than say equivalent derv. My 300 had been loved 10yo 3.5 with 24k miles was about £3k cheaper than the derv. I get better fuel costs £0.45 /L Vs what £1.20 diesel despite going through a fair bit more of the stuff.

Grab the chance to have a big motor cheaply as the way it's going LPG won't be an option in future as the new fangled direct injection will kill it off imho and we will all have 800cc double, quad turbocharged direct injected things that run on the smugness of certain people.

[buckyhill]

No tube on mgztt. Four lights mean full. When only one light left it means it is getting low, then it flashes for about 30 miles and eventually bleeps that's when I buy some more.

[minimutly]

Thats the same as my brc setup. And the kit was sub £1000 new, if fitted proffessionally would have been another £1000.

[StewartIngram]

Flashlube is still only needed when valve seats are not hard, eg some Ford engines. Look at my post earlier and see the mileages I've achieved with NO problems, and also the comments from Tinley Tech (look them up).

Stewart

[StewartIngram]

Economics for it were simple with me:-

LPG is usually thought of as 1/2 price fuel, though over time that can change up or down a bit. However lets keep it simple as 1/2 price.

When i first converted, professional fitting was around £1000, kits were available for diy at around £500-600, though pro fitting could go up to £1500-2000. The price didn't seem to follow the trend of higher price=better quality though! Prices have obviously risen since the with inflation, but the same principals apply.

So, you buy a diy kit and fit it, with a pro checking it afterwards and setting up the software if need be. You have to recoup that expenditure to make it worthwhile. Easiest way is not to pay out in the first instance! Get a credit card where you pay 0% interest for the next 12 months (or maybe more). Then get a money box and put cash into it every time you fill up. On petrol you put in say £30 of fuel, with lpg it is only £15, the remaining £15 goes into the cash box. At the end of the month you pay your credit card bill with it. So the install has actually not involved you paying cash out. An average driver does 10-12k miles per annum, in fact you will pay off the bill in that time, so you do actually get a free install!. Then suddenly driving becomes progressively uncomfortable. That £15 you were putting into the money box stays in your back pocket, sitting on the seat gets more uncomfortable every time you fill up! (That is what I tell people is the main disadvantage of lpg :}). If however you get the install done by a pro, the payback time is longer, perhaps twice as much, hence the need for a credit card with a longer 0% period.
However I say it again, it is not difficult to do. Even the software setup is pretty easy. You don't mess about with gas for safety reasons obviously, but sensible care and attention, reading of specs etc including online, will see it installed ok. Then get it checked by a pro (ask around on here for where). Only then put gas in it.

Stewart

[marinabrian]

Not from what the lpg service guy told me. My car was supposedly capable of running fine without a valve saver with the system I had fitted, but the service guy said one was installed because in his experience, all cars needed it. I never worried as my car supposedly didn't need the added lube but it has killed itself. When I got the car, with the lpg system in, it wouldn't run at all on gas! The mechanic had wound the exhaust valves all the way in, and as lpg is much more sensitive to things than petrol, it just couldn't work on gas. Hence the very expensive lpg service guy with whom I had long discussions. Wouldn't personally risk pg without flashlube again as it turned into a very very expensive problem. Still, bright side and all, I now have a Rover 75!:D

Ok, I must be doing something wrong then......my 214 has only covered 376,000 miles on LPG with no flashlube, the kit came off my previous 214 which covered 290,000 miles with no flashlube, and the kit will be going onto my 416 tourer in the near future, with no flashlube.

Both the 4 cylinder k series, and the six cylinder k series do not require upper cylinder lubricant in any shape or form when running on gas ;)

You can now relax, as you now own a Rover, and not a Honda ;)

Brian :D

[Arryhall]

Economics for it were simple with me:-

However I say it again, it is not difficult to do. Even the software setup is pretty easy. You don't mess about with gas for safety reasons obviously, but sensible care and attention, reading of specs etc including online, will see it installed ok. Then get it checked by a pro (ask around on here for where). Only then put gas in it.

Stewart

Well, I wish I were as capable as you, and knew how to set things up properly. My experience with LPG has left me severely doubtful of it's practicality and having it destroy the engine in my car, and the set up costing me £400 AN HOUR and it still not work properly, you can see I'm biased against it. And I have asked everyone I know around about servicing it, and there is literally no-one in the last 4 years with whom I spoke who could tell me anyone who can set it up other than the £400 an hour guy and most knew less than me about it.

If you've got a car that has done a million miles on lpg, well, good for you. My experience was the fact that the Honda was THE most expensive car I have ever owned to run keeping it on the road, and in the end, it failed to get to 100,000 miles before the valves died because of the lpg. Other than this thread, I have never spoken to anyone about lpg, and I have talked to any mechanic I could about this, and not once have I heard there isn't a need for lube. If you find you don't need it, then again, I'm very happy for you, but mine did, it had it, it wasn't set up 100% and now I have a dead car.
Plus, I can't afford £2000 to swap the system over, have not the ability to do it myself, and do I really trust it not to kill me new car in a couple of years?

[minimutly]

Well I wouldn't trust someone who wanted to charge me £400 an hour...

Really, did you not do a simple search for the lpg forum? Anyone there would have told you (correctly) you needed flashlube on a honda, for free, but it sounds like it was too late for you. I'm not sure how much you paid for your honda, but a simple valve job, or even a second hand head would have cured it - it wasn't "scrapped" - forgive me if I misquoted your words there.

There are a number of things against lpg - people charging, and paying £400 an hour is one, cheap kits with cheap injectors, and cowboy fitters another. No wonder people are put off. In essence though, it works, and it pays for itself, you just have to do your research.

[Arryhall]

I looked around but the Honda came with the system pre-fitted. It didn't actually work when I first got it. If it idled at all, it would stall, or pop over to petrol. Wouldn't go to lpg unless it was revved high. Went back to the garage 4 times and they didn't seem to do anything. Their reason was they were a garage that dealt with petrol and diesel, not lpg, so they were setting it up for the petrol side of things, which worked fine, but totally messed up the lpg side.

I searched the net for fitters and people and where I am, there was no-one other than the rip off guy. Seemed a nice enough guy, at Car-Gas, the mechanic was good, friendly and he did know his stuff, but his partner was the one handling the bills etc. and the mechanic charged me for an hours' labour even though he had the car for three days coz he couldn't figure out why it didn't work! He's the one said the exhaust valves had been shut right down so it wouldn't work on the gas. When I went and saw the partner and said an hours labour, and he said £400, I actually laughed thinking he was having a laugh. But no, as they are literally the only service guys in a 25 mile radius that do lpg, they charged whatever they wanted. I expected about £60. Hence I'd never, ever go back there again. But, as I said, they are the only guys I know who can do this stuff.
I did like the lpg cost saving, and the place I filled up, the guys there are a laugh so we'd have a chuckle about stuff whenever I went to fill up.

As for the Honda, it is sitting in my back yard, SORNed, whilst I remove me Parrot for my 75. It's just the ability to fix the engine is something I don't have. At the moment, it does drive, albeit on 3 cylinders, so I could sell for spares or repairs or scrap it, because if I start to fix it, I'd end up with a Honda shell and a box of bits that used to be an engine! :laughing2:

I even considered, for about 30 seconds, transferring the lpg system, but then realised I would blow myself up and don't know anyone who could do it.

[StewartIngram]

I fitted my Bigas system. The King is the same system; I changed the ecu to a King when the small relays for injector switching wore out.
Setting it up software wise is as easy as this:

A series of walk-through pages - basically tick boxes - allows you to choose the fittings you have on your car. Such things as number of cyls, type/make of injectors, fuel gauge etc. Save that, and it should then start and run. It then needs calibrating.
Start the engine, increase the revs to the stated rpm and hold it there. That is it! Job done. The calibration is automatic; basically the car starts on petrol, you hold the accelerator at 2800rpm (from memory, I think that is it). The ecu measures what happens to the petrol injectors, switches itself over to lpg, and adjusts it own settings to give a similar performance on gas. . That is it - anyone want to pay me £400 an hour?:}.
You can then go on to tweak it with a remap, but in 17 years I've never bothered.
Now tell me that is difficult?

Stewart

[Arryhall]

Actually....yes, that does sound complicated! :D

Do you have to plug a computer-y testing device in somewhere to make the measurements? CarGas did pretty much everything on a PC plugged into the car, telling it how much fuel to use at what revs etc. in order to set it up. Well, once he had done the mechanical bit with the exhaust valves, that is!

I suppose it is like anything really. I can set up pretty much any guitar with whatever action you want. I can do a refret and crown and polish the frets better than factories do and make an £80 Squire play like a £3000 USA strat. I can do all the wiring and add push-pull switches to tap the humbuckers, phase the pickups, reverse-parallel the humbuckers or even the singlecoils with eachother creating a psudeo mother-bucker. I have rebuilt more guitars than I can count (so more than 3 then) and I have repainted several. I can play pretty darn well even though I say so myself and know my way around amps and pedals. I have learned through trial and error, but more specifically doing things with luthiers and watching set ups being performed.
When i open the bonnet of a car, however, I stand back and say "Yep. That space appears to be filled with engine." That's the extent of my mechanical know-how. I broke into a sweat siliconing the rear light seals the other week as that was mechanic-ing for me! :D

Seriously though Mr. Ingram, :bowdown: I genuinely wish I was as able as you. Messing a guitar up could cost me £25 for a new neck. Messing my engine up is a little more. And I have an inherent fear of breaking my car, which is irrational considering the car that is broken is already broken...:panic:

[fandango151]

The standard of fitters can be abysmal.

My 75 had an aftermarket kit when I bought it. Beautifully neat install but some serious deficiencies. Reducer was fitted upside down so it filled with water and rubbish fringe road, injectors tucked in the v and pipework T'd to the matrix hence vaporiser would cool off and fire liquid into the injectors. I replaced all the wrongness.

My friend had a focus converted and based on the work I opted to use the same guy to install on my 300. It's messier but everything is accessible and fitted in a smart fashion.

Not sure if it's against rules but Nazar at Birmingham autogas. He works on BRC (UK arm went bump) and king - which are aeb based systems. Reasonable guy who does all the local taxis just make sure you like dogs as Jessie is in the workshop.

Incorrect set up will take valves out quickly on anything even on petrol - lean makes heat.

[minimutly]

Ha, jinxed or what. Driving to work yesterday the gas kicked in within half a mile as usual - and died, changed back to petrol. This is after me saying my brc kit has been fault free since fitting 3 years ago and 80,000 miles.
Some testing last night showed the front solenoid coil has failed - poo, £48 to cover what I would normally pay £25 for (260 miles). Ordered a new one, plus some filters from Fairwater garage in Cardiff, hopefully be in tomorrow.

[Arryhall]

Ha, jinxed or what. Driving to work yesterday the gas kicked in within half a mile as usual - and died, changed back to petrol. This is after me saying my brc kit has been fault free since fitting 3 years ago and 80,000 miles.
Some testing last night showed the front solenoid coil has failed - poo, £48 to cover what I would normally pay £25 for (260 miles). Ordered a new one, plus some filters from Fairwater garage in Cardiff, hopefully be in tomorrow.

Sorry to hear that! At least you found out what was knackered! That's the thing with gas though, once you go back to petrol, you start to think how much more it's costing to run the car!

So, the car has "solenoids" in then? And they have coils? I'm learning! :D

[minimutly]

Arryhall, if you can do all those things you mentioned with a guitar, believe me you can do basic mechanics (or more).
My belief is that when someone says theyre not "mechanically minded" it means they haven't taken the time to learn what's obvious from looking at it. Please don't take that personally, its not meant to be.

[StewartIngram]

My lpg injectors do have solenoids, but the construction of them is such that the 2 wires come out through the moulded plastic base. Over time, odd wires (there are 6 coils so that makes 12 wires) have broken with vibtation. I've resorted to diy repairs, grinding back the plastic until the copper shows, then soldering the wire to that. They really are getting past their sell by now though!
I was told many years ago they are precision devices and can only be replaced as a whole set because they are "balanced". Poppycock. They are mounted in 2 banks of 3, as I damaged one in fitting I eventually managed to purchase a single bank. It fitted and ran with no problems. As for a precision device, well I don't think so. The internal piston sits on a rubber seat. Where is the precision in that?
Like I've said before, there are a lot of mis-truths passed around as gospel in lpg-world.

Stewart

[Arryhall]

Mis-truths and outright lies, so it seems!

I've learned more from you guys in the last few days than I did from the lpg forum I went to where I was basically told that unless you are a fully qualified fitter with Gas Safe cert., you aren't allowed to touch lpg, and it's too complicated for non-gas mechanics to mess with.

Wish I'd come here sooner. My car might be still useable. But then, I wouldn't have me 75....:shrug:

minimutley, if I had photo space, I'd post pics of my last guitar build. It really is....80's. It's a strat body, white, with a neon orange crackle finish with glitter in the lacquer, a blue glow in the dark scratchplate with orange glow in the dark pickups I repainted, with three push pull knobs effecting the HSS pickup configuration in odd and interesting ways. I also scalloped the fretboard adding glow in the dark side markers and glitter fret dots. And locking machine heads on a 2 pivot trem. It's unique, hilariously over the top and just screams of hair metal. I love it.
I guess the problem is mainly fear of the expense of messing a car up and then having to pay someone to fix it. And not having a car whilst I completely knacker mine and pay to get it fixed. I would LOVE to try and change the valves on my now off the road Honda, but everyone, and I mean everyone I have spoken to around here tells me don't, I can't do it, I'll knacker it, just sell it to we buy any shed.com, it'll cost too much etc etc etc.
So I get the fear and daren't try things.The idea of swapping the lpg over to the Rover is so incredibly tempting, but then I'd have 2 knackered cars!:eek:

[Geldof]

I have lpg ,and as very body said,it's all automatic switching over,the green lights are you fuel gauge, but don't trust them,they are usually miles out

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