When a clutch bleed goes bad

[fro]

Hi,

I've been having a problems sometimes selecting 1st and 2nd gears. Cluch pedal has been ok, but sometimes seems slow to return. After a bit of reading i thought a clutch bleed may be in order before I think about getting the slave/master cylinder changed.

So i bought a Gunson Easibleed and set to work, aiming to bleed the master then the slave to avoid contamination.

My first problem was that the Easibleed wouldn't fit properly onto any of my tyre valves, so I applied some PTFE tape to help. Secondly no matter how tight I secured the Easybleed to the master reservoir it leaked, meaning I had to run round the car to bleed before all the clean brake fluid ended up on the carpet.

After going through nearly 2L of fluid I now have a flat spare tyre, a half flat front tyre, a clutch pedal that only engages near the floor and still get a notchy gear change.

Wish I'd stuck to the convention pumping method, but I didn't have a glamourous assistant.

[marinabrian]

Hi,

I've been having a problems sometimes selecting 1st and 2nd gears. Cluch pedal has been ok, but sometimes seems slow to return. After a bit of reading i thought a clutch bleed may be in order before I think about getting the slave/master cylinder changed.

So i bought a Gunson Easibleed and set to work, aiming to bleed the master then the slave to avoid contamination.

My first problem was that the Easibleed wouldn't fit properly onto any of my tyre valves, so I applied some PTFE tape to help. Secondly no matter how tight I secured the Easybleed to the master reservoir it leaked, meaning I had to run round the car to bleed before all the clean brake fluid ended up on the carpet.

After going through nearly 2L of fluid I now have a flat spare tyre, a half flat front tyre, a clutch pedal that only engages near the floor and still get a notchy gear change.

Wish I'd stuck to the convention pumping method, but I didn't have a glamourous assistant.

Did you set the pressure of the tyre to 20 psi? and did you read the instructions on the easibleed which talks of checking for air tightness, before filing the bottle with fluid?

Finally I have to ask, but did you remove the dutch cap from the master cylinder reservoir?

The clutch master cylinder cap is the same as the brake master cylinder one, and it pays to make sure the fibre washers are either side of the pipe fitting in the centre of the easibleed cap, along with the rubber seal fitted inside the cap.

If you wish to test the integrity of the easibleed pipework before fitting it to the clutch master, fit it to the brake master first, and without fluid in the bottle ;)

By the way you cannot bleed the master in isolation to the slave, unless you have some way of releasing the quick coupling ;)

Second time lucky I'd say :)

Brian :D

[EastPete]

On OEM clutch masters, you need the Eezibleed lid to be a very tight fit on the top of the cylinder reservoir to avoid leaks and brake fluid all over your carpets. As Brian says, hitch it up 'dry' first, connect to the tyre at 20 psi, and listen for any air leaks at the MC. You might need to drive the lid of the Eezibleed on a bit tighter on the reservoir, by using a long screwdriver on the raised plastic bits on the edge of the Eezibleed reservoir cap. Only put fluid in the Eezibleed bottle once you are sure you have an air-tight seal at the MC.

Tazu clutch masters have a thicker wall to the reservoir, so the Eezibleed cap seems to seal more easily without the need for excessive tightening.

Pete

[fro]

Thanks Brian.

Yep I went through the proper set up with the Dutch cap removed, but found it impossible to get a tight enough seal on the cylinder reservoir. I'd also separated the master from the slave by undoing the quick release coupling.

Will try again another day.
Andy

[fro]

Nipping it up tight with a screw driver did the trick.

Many thanks for the suggestions!
Andy