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e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 06:28
Morning folks

I am having a problem with my cdti
It’s starts ok but when idling it will cut out and then it won’t start again. It doesn’t have the ubp
If I sit in the car I can hear the Itp running, but it keeps running for over a minute then I hear a click from behind the glovebox and it will start for a while then cut out again. Does this point towards in tank pump. Car has 123k.

Thanks

Thomas


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BigRuss
22nd November 2017, 07:33
The in-tank pump on the facelift cars is pretty reliable. I suspect your ECU might have had a swim at some point ;)

Russ

RPWC
22nd November 2017, 07:35
Your ITP will run all the time the engine is running or ignition is on. Otherwise how do you think the engine stays running?:D:D The clicking you hear is likely to be the fuel pressure relay, if you drop the cover from below the glovebox, you will see the fuse box. With the engine running, feel which relay is clicking, and switch off engine, remove relay and check the contacts are clean, then replace..
Before doing that, check your plenum chamber is dry and clear.
Read this thread, and you will see how to do it. The main E c u sits in here, and if the plenum drain is blocked, the chamber fills with water, and if it gets in the e c u, can cause all manner of issues. If your ex u has got wet, send a pm to member Marinabrian, who can repair them.

Mike Noc
22nd November 2017, 07:41
It doesn't run continuosly with just the 'ignition' on though Rich - 30 seconds to a minute, depending on which ECM is fitted then it will shut down, but will start again if you then crank the engine over. :}

e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 10:20
Ecu is totally dry. The car has been parked up for a while and I did let the fuel tank get under a quarter just by starting it up every few days and letting it run.


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Mike Noc
22nd November 2017, 11:44
The quarter tank syndrome isn't relevant to your car as it doesn't have a UBP.

When the car stalls, does the ITP keep running? If not then either a faulty fuel pump relay, a wiring fault between the relay and the ECM, or a fault with the ECM itsef.

If you try and restart the car does the oil light come on with key to position II as it should?

If you have an automatic, does the IPK display still give the gear selection, or revert to EP?

e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 14:01
Hi mike at this moment in time the car won’t start at all. The oil light is working as it should. It’s taking 70 seconds until fuel pump relay switch off.


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clf
22nd November 2017, 14:04
When you try to start it, does the Rev needle move?

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e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 14:05
The car was running grand until I fitted an in-line thermostat. Don’t know if that’s relevant.


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clf
22nd November 2017, 14:15
The car was running grand until I fitted an in-line thermostat. Don’t know if that’s relevant.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI am only going by what I have read on the forum, but the cam sensor or crank sensor can cause starting and running issues, I cannot remember which (someone could confirm) .

Try easy start ?

Also, you haven't dislodged the wiring for the map sensor? Or any other for that matter?

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Mickyboy
22nd November 2017, 15:21
Cam sensor, is only used for starting the vehicle once the engine is started, the cam sensor is no longer relevant the crank sensor however is relevant both during starting i.e. cranking the engine and also running.
Mick

e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 15:50
When you try to start it, does the Rev needle move?

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No it’s not moving


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clf
22nd November 2017, 15:54
No it’s not moving


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI believe that is indicative of one of the sensors above failed.

I can't search the forum, at the minute, but try searching for Rev counter needle, hopefully that will yield the cause or perhaps someone can jump in and confirm :-) (or contradict Lol)

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e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 15:54
Thanks Alan will have a nosey now


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Mike Noc
22nd November 2017, 16:12
If the rev counter needle doesn't move at all during cranking then suspect the crank sensor, or the associated wiring.

e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 16:26
Ok thanks mike will investigate later.

While I have everyone’s attention I got an ecu fixed and upgraded to 160 by marina Brian last year it is for the mk1 diesel. Will this go in the mk2 diesel?


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marinabrian
22nd November 2017, 16:33
Ok thanks mike will investigate later.

While I have everyone’s attention I got an ecu fixed and upgraded to 160 by marina Brian last year it is for the mk1 diesel. Will this go in the mk2 diesel?


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It certainly will Thomas, you will need the matching EWS and key transponder, however it will run the car ;)

Brian :D

e30325itourer
22nd November 2017, 16:34
Ok thanks Brian.


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e30325itourer
24th November 2017, 15:42
Thanks for all the answers folk.
Is there a guide to taking a crankshaft sensor out, according to Haynes you have to take out the starter motor is this true????


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e30325itourer
26th November 2017, 21:12
Hi folks have just replaced the crankshaft sensor and it still won’t start. Any advice???


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e30325itourer
26th November 2017, 23:30
Right further investigations carried out earlier to night. So after replacing the ckp. It still won’t start so decided to check the ecu out so took it out and some photos
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/64adbca7edd7a8229a64f3c3d72e60b8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/c8a5d08ba9d1143aa34a0258a130e687.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/010f0fe35c8801b43c1544745f1198fb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/f3e0c0a5bef638b511e5e92cb4d4450d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/a930fdefcbb76b594672b56e5c037751.jpg

Judging by the rusty mark on the ecu cover I would think water has been getting in.

Is this scrap ?

marinabrian
27th November 2017, 07:21
Right further investigations carried out earlier to night. So after replacing the ckp. It still won’t start so decided to check the ecu out so took it out and some photos
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/64adbca7edd7a8229a64f3c3d72e60b8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/c8a5d08ba9d1143aa34a0258a130e687.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/010f0fe35c8801b43c1544745f1198fb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/f3e0c0a5bef638b511e5e92cb4d4450d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171127/a930fdefcbb76b594672b56e5c037751.jpg

Judging by the rusty mark on the ecu cover I would think water has been getting in.

Is this scrap ?

I can cast my eye over it for you, that may well be salvageable ;)

Brian :D

e30325itourer
27th November 2017, 12:46
Hi Brian.

What does that bit thats burnt do, just that I put the ecu back in,got a generic fault code reader 4 faults came up,

P0201
P0202
P0203
PO204
Injector circuit open.

Cleared codes and it started first turn.😀




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marinabrian
27th November 2017, 13:11
Hi Brian.

What does that bit thats burnt do, just that I put the ecu back in,got a generic fault code reader 4 faults came up,

P0201
P0202
P0203
PO204
Injector circuit open.

Cleared codes and it started first turn.😀




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The PSU part of the injector drive circuit has been damaged, clearing the code is a temporary respite Thomas ;)

There is a pair of transistors that will have failed, and without replacing those, along with a couple of resistors, you can confirm this by measuring with your multimeter over a particular resistor ;)

Om the back side of the board with the connector facing away from you and at the top, you will see on the bottom right corner of the PCB three resistors.

If you measure the middle of these three resistors on the 20K range of your meter and find a reading of circa 18.2K, then the injector drive circuit has failed.

Something I'm used too after doing it for six years or so ;)

The component at the top which has failed is a 10R 27w SMD resistor which forms part of the injector protection circuit and will need to be replaced after it's ordeal.

Let me know if you need it repaired ;)

Brian :D

e30325itourer
27th November 2017, 13:13
How much Brian?


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