Is my webasto dead?

[r2andy]

Hello everyone.

Sorry for jumping in your forum.

I have a thermo top c and I'm trying to get it to work, most ( if not all ) the info iv read about has come from this forum so I thought I would ask direct.

I am confused as to applying 12v or ground to pin 1 or pin 3.
And what is classed as old or new model.
The sticker on mine says 66724b.

The heater is from a bmw e53 x5.
I have connected it up thermo test software and can only talk to it when I select Thermo top c/z bmw.

Any help will greatly appreciated.

Andy.

[FrenchMike]

Hi,you can't use it if it comes from a BMW car :shrug:

Believe me

Mike

[r2andy]

Hi mike. Thank you for the reply.

That's a shame as when I stripped it down the burn chamber and water jacket looked nearly new inside, no carbon at all!

So does it have to be one from a rover 75 to use manually?

Andy.

[FrenchMike]

Hi mike. Thank you for the reply.

That's a shame as when I stripped it down the burn chamber and water jacket looked nearly new inside, no carbon at all!

So does it have to be one from a rover 75 to use manually?

Andy.
Well, there is a solution ...you swap the PCB with a Rover' one :}

Sure ,there is one to sell for you on this forum ...

[COLVERT]

If posting a request for the PCB doesn't work on here then I guess it's down to your nearest car breaker. ;);)

[r2andy]

Sorry for the late response.

I have just purchased a rover 75 heater from flebay, should be here Tuesday, let's hope it works.
If not il be posting a request on here for a pcb if that's ok?

Many thanks for your help.

Andy.

[r2andy]

Hi.

Just an update.

So the rover 75 heater has just been delivered to my work.
I have opened up the box and the model number is 98570c and not 98570b as was advertised. Will this be a problem.

Thanks.

Andy.

[FrenchMike]

Hi.

Just an update.

So the rover 75 heater has just been delivered to my work.
I have opened up the box and the model number is 98570c and not 98570b as was advertised. Will this be a problem.

Thanks.

Andy.

No Prob at all :}

[r2andy]

Thanks Mike.

Just to confirm, earth pin 3 to start?

Andy

[FrenchMike]

Thanks Mike.

Just to confirm, earth pin 3 to start?

Andy

yes,permanently

http://www.disco3.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=41

[r2andy]

Sorry me again.

Just connected the heater up to thermo test and could only talk to it when bmw was selected, is this normal.

Ive not started it yet but i did a component test, on the circulation pump, it started and sounds fine but when I pressed stop it slowed to about quarter speed before it stopped and then threw a fault - circulating pump interuption.

And - glow plug/flame monitor short circuit.

I guess the glow plug needs replacing, but unsure about the pump.

Andy.

[trebor]

First of all was it sold as fully working if so you could try contacting the seller, so many of these are sold as working when came off the car but they are only working properly if they stay on and heat the water to 71 and go into part load and then go into idle mode when temp reaches 77, there are a, lot of in betweens possible such as switching off after a couple of minutes etc
I have thermis test and have to select BMW so that's not an issue it may depend on the type of interface you use.
Try clearing the faults and see if they reappear and did you test the air pump and fuel pump too as you only mention the water pump and glow plug,
You can check the resistance of the glow plug across, the plug terminals it should be 4 or below when cold, access the plug by removing the plastic cover on top of the FBH that is next to the exposed 2 and 6 pin plugs, push the cover towards the front of the car from the back of it slightly and it should lift up at the front with the aid of a small flat screwdriver

[FrenchMike]

Well Andy,i fear you have a knackered PCB :shrug:

[r2andy]

I will contact the seller, as it was advertised as "fully working".

Mike, about the pcb, is it fixable knackered or knackered knackered?

Andy.

[trikey]

I will contact the seller, as it was advertised as "fully working".

Mike, about the pcb, is it fixable knackered or knackered knackered?

Andy.

Send your PCB to Mike, he will sort it for you, Mike has done loads for me over the years.

[FrenchMike]

I will contact the seller, as it was advertised as "fully working".

Mike, about the pcb, is it fixable knackered or knackered knackered?

Andy.

In doubt,send it to me for checking ,if not faulty,you pay only the postage :}

[r2andy]

Thank you mike.

I will see what the seller has to say about swoping it.
If not, I will be in touch about sending it to you.

Thank you all for your comments, very helpful.:bowdown:

Andy.

[Comfortably Numb]

Thought I'd jump into an existing Webasto thread. Just discovered that my 2001 CDT has a Webasto heater fitted in front of the battery, I assume it's OEM, not retro-fitted. Question is, what makes it operate - I can't find any reference to it in the owner's handbook, and I haven't found any switches for it on the dash. Is it supposed to start automatically, when the temperature drops to a certain level, or do I choose when it should be on? As it's there, it would be nice to make sure it works. I am going to be setting off for work at 6.00 or earlier for the next few weeks, and there is plenty of time for frosts yet, so it would be nice to get into a pre-warmed motor.

[another_clean_sheet]

Thought I'd jump into an existing Webasto thread. Just discovered that my 2001 CDT has a Webasto heater fitted in front of the battery, I assume it's OEM, not retro-fitted. Question is, what makes it operate - I can't find any reference to it in the owner's handbook, and I haven't found any switches for it on the dash. Is it supposed to start automatically, when the temperature drops to a certain level, or do I choose when it should be on? As it's there, it would be nice to make sure it works. I am going to be setting off for work at 6.00 or earlier for the next few weeks, and there is plenty of time for frosts yet, so it would be nice to get into a pre-warmed motor.

Surprised that it is not in your handbook. It is in mine on page 47. Look in index for "Heating - Parking Heater"
It will automatically switch on when you start the car and the outside temperature is below 5 degrees.
If you have not got a remote for it, is there a timing unit when you lift the centre arm rest?

[Comfortably Numb]

Thanks for reply, ACS, No mention on P47, or in the index. It may be that in 2001, it was a new option, and the handbook had not been updated. There is no evidence of anything ever being fitted in the armrest cubby; I know from reading on the internet that's where the timers tend to be fitted on CDTis. I suspect mine is the basic installation - apparently activated either by opening the door or starting the engine. BTW, how long does it take before you start getting warm air?

[another_clean_sheet]

Thanks for reply, ACS, No mention on P47, or in the index. It may be that in 2001, it was a new option, and the handbook had not been updated. There is no evidence of anything ever being fitted in the armrest cubby; I know from reading on the internet that's where the timers tend to be fitted on CDTis. I suspect mine is the basic installation - apparently activated either by opening the door or starting the engine. BTW, how long does it take before you start getting warm air?

I must admit I thought in the early days that it was a standard fit.
Using my remote I tend to switch it on for 15/20 mins and the car windscreen is defrosted and the car is warm.
There is a way of forcing theFBH to fire up (try a search)
If the PCB has gone kaput which is quite likely then FrenchMike can test and repair them.
Look at post #9 & 10

[David Lawrence]

Thanks for reply, ACS, No mention on P47, or in the index. It may be that in 2001, it was a new option, and the handbook had not been updated. There is no evidence of anything ever being fitted in the armrest cubby; I know from reading on the internet that's where the timers tend to be fitted on CDTis. I suspect mine is the basic installation - apparently activated either by opening the door or starting the engine. BTW, how long does it take before you start getting warm air?

The timer if fitted at the factory was inside the armrest. If fitted retrospectively it could be anywhere. However since you mention it being activated by opening a door, this phenomenon is a symptom of a faulty PCB as they do that when the car wakes up.

If working correctly you will get warm air within a couple of minutes.

[trebor]

Thought I'd jump into an existing Webasto thread. Just discovered that my 2001 CDT has a Webasto heater fitted in front of the battery, I assume it's OEM, not retro-fitted. Question is, what makes it operate - I can't find any reference to it in the owner's handbook, and I haven't found any switches for it on the dash. Is it supposed to start automatically, when the temperature drops to a certain level, or do I choose when it should be on? As it's there, it would be nice to make sure it works. I am going to be setting off for work at 6.00 or earlier for the next few weeks, and there is plenty of time for frosts yet, so it would be nice to get into a pre-warmed motored.


You dont have to have an original webasto telestart to switch it on as plenty of cheaper aftermarket remotes can easily be wired in to make it start as a parking heater whilst you are still in the house , can also be wired to the ATC to bring on the cabin heater after five minutes or your own pre determined time

[r2andy]

Hi all.
Mike I have more questions, sorry!

I set the heater up on a test bench today with switched earth to pin 3, and tested all things properly and the water pump fault never appeared!

I flicked the switch and after a few seconds the fan went on full and got the fault on the glow plug/flame monitor short circuit, so I pluged in the heater from the bmw to check that one worked and it tested fine. So instead of taking them apart to change plugs over, I just swoped the pcb's as that was easer.

So now i have the bmw unit (with tested working glow plug) with the rover pcb in it.
Now when I plugged it in to test, it said glow plug/flame monitor interuption and underneath that, flame detector interigation 1.
I am now stuck and need your wisdom!

Andy.

[Comfortably Numb]

So assuming mine was OEM fitted, and it has no evidence of ever having a timer/controller in the armrest, are you saying it would have originally been started with a remote? If not, how was it activated?

[trebor]

So assuming mine was OEM fitted, and it has no evidence of ever having a timer/controller in the armrest, are you saying it would have originally been started with a remote? If not, how was it activated?

If it has no remote then it works as a supplementary heater and will come on when the temp is 5 degrees or below and the engine is started, what I said was you can easily add a remote so you can switch it on without the engine running to warm up the car before you get in it

[trebor]

Hi all.
Mike I have more questions, sorry!

I set the heater up on a test bench today with switched earth to pin 3, and tested all things properly and the water pump fault never appeared!

I flicked the switch and after a few seconds the fan went on full and got the fault on the glow plug/flame monitor short circuit, so I pluged in the heater from the bmw to check that one worked and it tested fine. So instead of taking them apart to change plugs over, I just swoped the pcb's as that was easer.

So now i have the bmw unit (with tested working glow plug) with the rover pcb in it.
Now when I plugged it in to test, it said glow plug/flame monitor interuption and underneath that, flame detector interigation 1.
I am now stuck and need your wisdom!

Andy.

Are you sure the faults showing are not the historical ones from the Rover board being in the Rover FBH which has the glow plug issue?
What does the BMW heater do with the Rover pcb in it, does it continue running or shut down? It should run until coolant gets to 71 and go onto part load before reaching 77 when it goes into idle mode,

[r2andy]

I cleared the faults in the rover pcb before I took it out.
I don't know why the rover pcb would keep saying glow plug interuption when the same glow plug and burner tested ok when connected to the bmw pcb.

Would interuption mean connection loss/break in cable somewhere?

[trebor]

Is the heater shutting down ?

[r2andy]

Yes, when I earth pin 3 the fan revs up for a split second, then about a seconds pause, then the fault shows, then the fan goes flat out for 2 mins and it says Cooling, then it all stops.

[trebor]

Yes, when I earth pin 3 the fan revs up for a split second, then about a seconds pause, then the fault shows, then the fan goes flat out for 2 mins and it says Cooling, then it all stops.

Well in that case sounds like the PCB is faulty as Mike said and you need it checking for blown resistors, further confirmed as the BMW heater you have the PCB on is known to be working without faults

[Comfortably Numb]

I may have to send my pcb to French Mike for checking. Despite temperatures down to -9C last week, this heater has never fired up in my ownership, so before I buy a remote for it, I need to check the basics to know it could work, even if only when I start the engine. I only read somewhere of one starting up when the door was opened, and thought that was an automatic feature mine should have. Glad someone has clarified that rather, it should start automatically when the key is turned. Can someone please point out where the PCB is, so I can extract it and send it to Mike? No information on the FBH in the Haynes Manual.

[trikey]

The PCB is in the top RH side of the FBH underneath the black cover, remove the four posi screws and you will see it.

[FrenchMike]

I may have to send my pcb to French Mike for checking. Despite temperatures down to -9C last week, this heater has never fired up in my ownership, so before I buy a remote for it, I need to check the basics to know it could work, even if only when I start the engine. I only read somewhere of one starting up when the door was opened, and thought that was an automatic feature mine should have. Glad someone has clarified that rather, it should start automatically when the key is turned. Can someone please point out where the PCB is, so I can extract it and send it to Mike? No information on the FBH in the Haynes Manual.

you have a PM:}

Mike

[bl52krz]

Hi Mike, not hijacking the thread, but thought that because it is in the same line, would ask a question/s. Friends car cdt Rover 75, we tried to find out why it was not working last week. Done the first thing and put the sensor in the freezer for 20 minutes, put it back on,nothing happened. Fired it up from pin 3 and it ran but never fired up. Took the F8 fuse out for 10 minutes,put it back, still nowt. Took the fuel line off from heater, and tried firing it up but nothing coming out of fuel line? Would you think it was the pcb that is up the Swanee.

[FrenchMike]

Hi Mike, not hijacking the thread, but thought that because it is in the same line, would ask a question/s. Friends car cdt Rover 75, we tried to find out why it was not working last week. Done the first thing and put the sensor in the freezer for 20 minutes, put it back on,nothing happened. Fired it up from pin 3 and it ran but never fired up. Took the F8 fuse out for 10 minutes,put it back, still nowt. Took the fuel line off from heater, and tried firing it up but nothing coming out of fuel line? Would you think it was the pcb that is up the Swanee.

Hi,
don't waste your time ,knowing the PCB is the main part of the system and
prone to fail ,

send it to me at least for check :}

Mike

[r2andy]

Hi.
Just an update.
I decided to send the whole thing back to the seller for an exchange. Big mistake, as the replacement one is an older, dirtyer one with a stiff/part seized fan, knackered glow plug and water pump that can attracts dogs from miles away with the noise! The amount off carbor that falls out the exhaust is unreal.
I feel really peed off by the whole experience as it was advertised as fully tested and working, oh and it was twice the price of the bmw one.

Sorry, rant over!

Any advice on what to do?

Andy.

[slovcan]

Hi.
Just an update.
I decided to send the whole thing back to the seller for an exchange. Big mistake, as the replacement one is an older, dirtyer one with a stiff/part seized fan, knackered glow plug and water pump that can attracts dogs from miles away with the noise! The amount off carbor that falls out the exhaust is unreal.
I feel really peed off by the whole experience as it was advertised as fully tested and working, oh and it was twice the price of the bmw one.

Sorry, rant over!

Any advice on what to do?

Andy.

I'd send it back for a full refund since the seller has sent you two that were not as described. Take a time out, ask here if a member has a legitimate working unit they will sell you.

[r2andy]

Hi.

Seller has refunded me and told me to keep it.

Going to have a play with it at the weekend.

Thanks everyone for the help, will no doubt post back soon with more questions.

Andy.

[enquoy]

Hi,
I was hoping someone could help me. I have a webasto heater from a rover 75 that wont fire.
It is a thermo top with code number 66232.
I have it on the bench and wired with a 12v supply and earth to the main supply connector. I used a 12v supply to pin 3 to energise.
The air blower starts and a supply is fed to the water pump, this runs for 2 mins and 7 seconds and then everything stops.
What I found so far-
Battery is good over 12v
Fuel pump works if I connect to 12v and flick on and off.
Removed glowplug and connected to 12v and it heats fine.
Water pump - found this to be faulty so connected a bulb to pcb to give a circuit, the bulb lit but the system cut out still after 2mins and 7 secs. I had a similar water pump from a vw t4 so connected it up. It the pump ran fine but yet again the system cut out after 2 mins and 7 secs.
I believe the fuel pump should have started after 30secs but nothing happened. I tested the feed to the fuel pump from the pcb with a multi meter but saw no voltage although im not sure if the meter would pick up the small pulses.
I thought it may be resistors under the white stuff on the pcb that is at fault as I have read about this but my pcb looks different to the ones I have seen pics of. The one I have only has one blob of white stuff squeezed in between two what could maybe be capacitors. I picked the white stuff out but there is no resistors beneath.
Do you think it could be my pcb and how would I go about fixing it or getting it fixed.

[trebor]

pm French Mike who will check over the PCB for you