Pulling to the left?

[Mgaz]

Since I've had my mg zt190 it has had a slight pull to the left under normal driving.

My guess is tracking but is there anything else I need to check/look for? Like worn bushes or anything that could be causing this?

I've noticed sometimes when pulling away I occasionally get a bit of a clonk type feeling.

Not hugely noticeable, but could this be a gear box mount or something?

Any advice on checking if anything is a little worn?

[Number 6]

Since I've had my mg zt190 it has had a slight pull to the left under normal driving.

My guess is tracking but is there anything else I need to check/look for? Like worn bushes or anything that could be causing this?

I've noticed sometimes when pulling away I occasionally get a bit of a clonk type feeling.

Not hugely noticeable, but could this be a gear box mount or something?

Any advice on checking if anything is a little worn?

First thing to check would be the tyre presures ,some times a soft tyre will cause a pull to the left or right.. If they are OK then go for a 4 wheel alinement.The clunk could be the lower engine mount or the lower arm rear bush:shrug: If it proves to be the lower arm rear bush then that needs to be done before any wheel alinement is carried out.

[Yella Fella]

Pulling to the left means your car is taking you the ATM, again. :D

[FrenchMike]

Since I've had my mg zt190 it has had a slight pull to the left under normal driving.

My guess is tracking but is there anything else I need to check/look for? Like worn bushes or anything that could be causing this?

I've noticed sometimes when pulling away I occasionally get a bit of a clonk type feeling.

Not hugely noticeable, but could this be a gear box mount or something?

Any advice on checking if anything is a little worn?

First and simplest thing to do ,swap the front wheels and see the difference ...

[roverbarmy]

Pulling to left and clonk at start were symptoms of front lower wishbone arm bushes (https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/pre-orders-mg7/products/pre-order-rover-75-mg-zt-oem-front-lower-wishbone-bushes-rbx101760-rbx101770) on mine.:shrug:Also gave me scrubbing of tyres on outside edges.

[T-Cut]

If the mentioned possibilities don't explain the effect, try searching for #LDP#
That's my search term for the Left Drift Phenomenon and should list some previous threads on the subject. You might also look for PLS (Pulling Left Syndrome). Drifting/pulling left isn't always caused by a mechanical issue. Some cars do it when perfectly tracked.

TC

[RoverP480]

Pulling on my Rover P4 was a defect in one of the tyres, I put the fronts on the back & vice versa , solved it. After a few thousand miles, it became apparent with an odd wear pattern on the defective tyre.

[Heddy]

My 75 has always pulled to the left, even after alignment, I think it must be the camber of the road.

[Stag>75]

Since I've had my mg zt190 it has had a slight pull to the left under normal driving.

My guess is tracking but is there anything else I need to check/look for? Like worn bushes or anything that could be causing this?

I've noticed sometimes when pulling away I occasionally get a bit of a clonk type feeling.

Not hugely noticeable, but could this be a gear box mount or something?

Any advice on checking if anything is a little worn?


Mine pulled to the left. I did everything. The wheel alignment specs were within specification however the left camber was more positive than the right. There is no adjustment available in the design however I had mine altered by well respected suspension specialist. The adjustment involved bending (Cold) the hub top and bottom with respect to the hub, Upshot was that it then drove straight - was such a different car to drive.

A friend of mine has a 75 with the same issue and I know many others do. So either many of them left the factory with the left camber baing a bit more positive than the right (But still well within specification) or something happened to them over their life. One idea I had is that positioning of the bolt holes in the replacement rear wishbone buses.

However I suspect the issue is the original specs. If after having everything replaced (I had several specialists tell me that the lower arm inner ball joints were fine when in fact they were not) it still pulls to the left then look at what the camber is. If the left is more positive then this is your issue.

[T-Cut]

There's pulling left and there's drifting left. These cars had a tendency to drift left even when brand new. OK, it's said some weren't tracked exactly right when made, but not to the extent that the the behaviour is so regularly discussed on forums. Misalignment will cause pulling, but drift is something else. My 75 did it straight out of the showroom and two laser trackings at two different MGR depots didn't resolve it. The service manager drove it ten miles with me alongside and the conclusion was it is mainly a road camber effect. This effect can be demonstrated by driving on the right side (of a deserted road - somewhere).

Some previous discussion: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872775456170867447:b0a0nngh8ce&q=%23DLP%23%20T-Cut&oq=%23DLP%23%20T-Cut&gs_l=partner-generic.12...12712.17246.2.20009.6.6.0.0.0.0.89.49 9.6.6.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.4535j5976103j8..1ac.1.2 5.partner-generic..8.2.272.089jay0CeRQ#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=%23DLP%23%20&gsc.sort=

TC

[Mgaz]

There's pulling left and there's drifting left. These cars had a tendency to drift left even when brand new. OK, it's said some weren't tracked exactly right when made, but not to the extent that the the behaviour is so regularly discussed on forums. Misalignment will cause pulling, but drift is something else. My 75 did it straight out of the showroom and two laser trackings at two different MGR depots didn't resolve it. The service manager drove it ten miles with me alongside and the conclusion was it is mainly a road camber effect. This effect can be demonstrated by driving on the right side (of a deserted road - somewhere).

Some previous discussion: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872775456170867447:b0a0nngh8ce&q=%23DLP%23%20T-Cut&oq=%23DLP%23%20T-Cut&gs_l=partner-generic.12...12712.17246.2.20009.6.6.0.0.0.0.89.49 9.6.6.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.4535j5976103j8..1ac.1.2 5.partner-generic..8.2.272.089jay0CeRQ#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=%23DLP%23%20&gsc.sort=

TC

what about single track roads ?

[kaiser]

Most properly constructed roads will be highest in the center and slope towards the edges to drain water.
That means that if your car is tracking true, it will tend to wear off the road, given a free reign.
If you think you have a problem, find a flat surface and see what it does. But first pump all tyres.
I would then get the tracking checked, including the rear wheels.

[stevestrat]

what about single track roads ?Always pulls towards the cow pat or horse sh.. :dung:

[Heddy]

Do any of our overseas members (left hand drive cars) experience pulling to the right?:shrug:

[kaiser]

Try it yourself, if you find a piece of open road with no traffic, cross the line, and it will pull to the other side.!

[T-Cut]

Agreed. A left drift effect becomes a right drift when driven on the right side of a typical highway. I rarely drive on single track roads but I doubt any drift effect would be noticeable.

TC

[FrenchMike]

Hi guys ,beleive me ,here in France,my 75 is going straight now .

After lot of investigations it was in fact my front left tyre at fault ...:duh:

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=229633


Mike

[Stag>75]

Try it yourself, if you find a piece of open road with no traffic, cross the line, and it will pull to the other side.!

Mine didn’t, it would drive straight on the opposite camber and having driven others I found the same.

Having the camber adjusted fixed the issue, So many others report the issue that I am comfortable in saying that there must have been an issue with either the specs or the manufacture.

[Comfortably Numb]

Find a nice quiet stretch of straight road. Ask someone to stand behind the car or better still, follow you as you drive away. Check if any crab-walking is evident. This is usually caused by wear in the rear suspension, but can be due to accident/damage. I assume you have checked all brakes (including rears) for sticking? If all else fails, add a couple of PSI to the left tyres.

[kaiser]

A knock, a bump, a kerb, or a pot hole is enough to upset the tracking.
That is why you have to check it from time to time.

On a flat surface, the car should steer straight. On cambered roads, that will translate into drift right or left.

(And why would the spell checker warn me against the spelling of "kerb"?:shrug:)

Oh, the joy of life! out to fit a pulley unto the S-type R.
The previous owner had the pulley slip and ground part off the front part of the crank. Pulley fitted with a tapered split collar unto straight shaft, with a cone in the pulley itself and a shouldered bolt, tightened into the end of the crank with 380NM.
I have shaped the crank end by hand and achieved a tolerance of
+-0.2mm. Made a new tapered split collar, and i plan to insert two stainless balls wedged into the shaft/collar, plus Loctite and hefty torque!

If no joy, engine out and re-machining the crank:cool:
hope not.

[marinabrian]

A knock, a bump, a kerb, or a pot hole is enough to upset the tracking.
That is why you have to check it from time to time.

On a flat surface, the car should steer straight. On cambered roads, that will translate into drift right or left.

(And why would the spell checker warn me against the spelling of "kerb"?:shrug:)

Oh, the joy of life! out to fit a pulley unto the S-type R.
The previous owner had the pulley slip and ground part off the front part of the crank. Pulley fitted with a tapered split collar unto straight shaft, with a cone in the pulley itself and a shouldered bolt, tightened into the end of the crank with 380NM.
I have shaped the crank end by hand and achieved a tolerance of
+-0.2mm. Made a new tapered split collar, and i plan to insert two stainless balls wedged into the shaft/collar, plus Loctite and hefty torque!

If no joy, engine out and re-machining the crank:cool:
hope not.

Strangely enough I machined a crankshaft in situ on a K series for similar runout issues, where the crankshaft bolt had been left loose causing the timing gear to wear the end of the crank.

I mounted the top slide from my jewellers lathe to the oil pump, then wound i n the feed while turning the engine with a socket with a thinwall tube spacer around the crank pulley bolt.........it worked a treat :drool4:

Brian :D

Worked a treat too

[kaiser]

I made an aluminium round thick disk, whith a 6mm hole to fit a tungsten straight router bit shaft through.
Fitted the disk with the centre bolt and turned it slowly around, with an air drill turning the router bit at high speed rasping the surface around the crank.

I have just cleaned up everything, and it looks good enough to fit as is.

I am dispensing with the steel balls at the moment. I think it should work.

Cross fingers!:o