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agw_01
14th February 2018, 22:45
Hi all,

I've owned my 03 ZT CDTi for 12 months and until very recently, it's been very reliable.

The other week the car wouldn't start with nothing from the starter motor, not even a solenoid click. I only had 8 volts at the solenoid wire which after a bit of Googling, found quite a few people reporting similar issues which were appointed to a wet EWS disrupting the crank signal. I tried to send 12v directly to the solenoid and still had nothing so removed the starter from the car for further investigation.

I wasn't entirely happy with how the starter was performing off the car so decided to replace it. The car sat around for a week before I had chance to fit it giving the EWS time to dry out. New starter fitted, car cranked off the key and started as normal. Everything was fine for a week or two.

Got in the car on Friday, started it and drove it to my destination 10 miles away, the weather was dry. I got back in the car a short while later and once again, I had nothing from the starter. I replaced the solenoid wire with one that I'd made up to allow me to connect the solenoid directly to the battery and the car fired up without issue. I did a 600 mile round trip this weekend and the car ran well, apart from me having to manually trigger the starter solenoid each time.

Drove the car to work on Monday and again, it ran fine. There was quite a lot of rain and spray on the motorway but got to work and parked up. Came back to the car about an hour later, key into position 2, jumped out to trigger the solenoid and it wouldn't start. I got back into the car and noticed an 'engine disabled' message on the cluster display.

A bit of googling later and I guessed that the EWS had got so wet that it was no longer reading the RFID chip in the key and as such, refused to start the car. I located the EWS, removed the end cap and sure enough, water came out of the unit. While I was under the dash, I noticed the sunroof drain directly above the EWS was hanging loose!!

The car is currently sat at work with the battery disconnected while I wait for some 5 star torx bits to remove and assess the EWS, but what are my options here? I'm hoping that allowing the EWS to dry out and giving the PCB a clean/repair any damaged components will restore its functionality. If the unit is past saving can I get a 2nd hand EWS and have it coded to my ECU and keys, or can only new EWS modules be coded?

Apologies for the long post but I figured it'd be useful to get as much information in as possible.

Thanks for any assistance!

Vanbursta
14th February 2018, 22:48
You need to PM Marinabrian, he's probably your only realistic hope here.

Rogue
14th February 2018, 22:51
You need to PM Marinabrian, he's probably your only realistic hope here.

You beat me to it :p:... Marinabrian is certainly the specialist of all things of this nature on here.

agw_01
14th February 2018, 22:58
Cheers guys, I had noticed through browsing the forum that there were a few members specialising in this area hence the post and hoping that they'd see it :)

For both of you to mention the same person is good enough for me... I'll drop Brian a PM.

Thanks!

agw_01
14th February 2018, 23:01
His inbox is full, if possible could somebody direct him to this thread.

Thank you :)

Rogue
14th February 2018, 23:03
His inbox is full, if possible could somebody direct him to this thread.

Thank you :)


No doubt he'll be along soon :)

Arctic
15th February 2018, 08:22
I presume you have also checked the plenum area for water, your ECU may have been for a swim also ?

agw_01
15th February 2018, 09:08
Yep, ECU was replaced a few years ago by the previous owner. I check the plenum regularly.

pletevl
15th February 2018, 09:49
What's an EWS ????

stevestrat
15th February 2018, 10:19
What's an EWS ????Its the immobiliser, actual name is German and about three feet long that's why its abbreviated to EWS.

SKS Disco
15th February 2018, 10:35
EWS stands for “Electronishe Wegfahsperre” which is German for “Electronic Drive Away Protection”

Hence EWS. “Electronishe WegfahSperre”

Vanbursta
15th February 2018, 10:38
Its the immobiliser, actual name is German and about three feet long that's why its abbreviated to EWS.

You just made me spill my tea!

marinabrian
15th February 2018, 13:37
Sorry, cleared a bit space in my PM box :o

And yes I can supply a coded EWS for you :)

Where are you located? UK is a bit vague ;)

Brian :D

agw_01
15th February 2018, 15:50
That's good news, thanks Brian. I'm hopeful once the EWS has dried out it'll work but I'll know more about what sort of state it's in when my torx bits turn up.

I'm in Manchester, would you need to see the car to code a new EWS?

Thanks all.

marinabrian
15th February 2018, 17:15
That's good news, thanks Brian. I'm hopeful once the EWS has dried out it'll work but I'll know more about what sort of state it's in when my torx bits turn up.

I'm in Manchester, would you need to see the car to code a new EWS?

Thanks all.

Hi Andrew, I would only need the old EWS and the back from your key containing the transponder in order to do the job ;)

The Torx bit, is actually a TS30 5 point security Torx plus, and not the more common 6 point version :)

Let me know what you find once you have the EWS out of the car, however my experience of detached sunroof drains, doesn't bode well for what you're likely to see.

The PCB has a good quality conformal coating, however for the unit to malfunction, it has to be pretty far gone :(

I carry EWS3 units in stock, and a complete coding transfer isn't a problem ;)

Brian :D

agw_01
15th February 2018, 17:50
I've seen plenty of threads where the relay inside the module has corroded and the car won't crank off the key, but not many (maybe 1) where the EWS has died completely.

I'm of the same mindset of you, for it to fail like this it must be pretty bad...and I'm not convinced it's worth continuing to run with a corroded unit and hope it won't fail in the future, especially as I need this car to be a reliable daily driver.

Sorry, yes it's the 5 point bits I'm waiting for. I always keep a Halfords 120 piece toolkit in the boot and wasn't best impressed when I realised it only had 6 sided torx bits.

What sort of costs are we looking at for a replacement EWS? PM me if you'd prefer.

Thanks for the advice so far.

Dallas
15th February 2018, 18:16
Your EWS unit is most probably very badly corroded due to water ingress from the sunroof drain tube, you may even have broken pins/contacts etc.

This is what one of mine looked like, one of the pins had corroded so badly it had broken off. :eek:

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=72363&stc=1&d=1518722227

marinabrian
22nd February 2018, 20:49
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=72450&stc=1&d=1519335990

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=72451&stc=1&d=1519336045


https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=72452&stc=1&d=1519336045

agw_01
22nd February 2018, 21:11
Looks like my VIN number! What have you found so far Brian?

marinabrian
22nd February 2018, 21:20
Looks like my VIN number! What have you found so far Brian?

All fixed, ECM breathed on, road tested, and now its's packed back in it's box ready to post back to you Andrew ;)

First job tomorrow, but for now it's time for bed :)

Brian :bed:

agw_01
22nd February 2018, 21:29
Absolute superstar, you work fast!

Glad you were able to read from the old EWS, wasn't sure what sort of operational state it would be in. Did you investigate at all?

Drop me a PM with what I owe you! Thanks very much!