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roverbarmy
3rd March 2018, 15:56
Having just had my sills and jacking points welded, I want to rustproof the inside of my sills. Am I causing MOT problems by drilling 10mm holes in the sills so that I can spray rustproofing materials in there with a 360 degree spray, then fit rubber blanking grommets, so that I can repeat the process each year or so? It's the sort of thing we used to do back in the 70's when box sections started to replace solid chassis. :shrug: If I keep 300mm away from structural points, should I be ok???:shrug:
suzublu
3rd March 2018, 16:17
Use the drain holes already there:shrug: also, take off the jacking pads, clean & spray inside, from the top, take off the chrome kick trim & spray inside:cool:
RoverP480
3rd March 2018, 16:19
I wouldn't of thought so , if in a neutral plane its not seriously weakening it. , but you could put holes on the inside, under the finisher, then they couldn't be seen.
suzublu
3rd March 2018, 16:33
The worst areas are just in front of the rear wheel, dirt collects in a void behind the liner & festers, causing rust from the inside https://i.imgur.com/aE4vhjRl.jpg
maxi_crawf
3rd March 2018, 16:56
Just make sure the existing drain holes are clear and use them.
Chuckles
4th March 2018, 08:48
I have Waxoiled every two years using existing holes and jack pad recesses. provided the oil is warmed and good pressure is it gets everywhere!
Yorkshire GOC
4th March 2018, 15:09
Having just had my sills and jacking points welded, I want to rustproof the inside of my sills. Am I causing MOT problems by drilling 10mm holes in the sills so that I can spray rustproofing materials in there with a 360 degree spray, then fit rubber blanking grommets, so that I can repeat the process each year or so? It's the sort of thing we used to do back in the 70's when box sections started to replace solid chassis. :shrug: If I keep 300mm away from structural points, should I be ok???:shrug:

I have waxoyled the sills and then filled the sill cavity via the jacking pad hole with dinitrol cavity wax using a long spray lead - seems to get right into the sill void making sure you dont block to the drain hole.