Engine Replaced

[Fred Byrne]

Engine replaced yesterday. A few pictures to whet the apetite. A few naughty words used. patience was required and much technical advice from Marc(Technical Advisor)
One gearbox bolt has gone AWOL. Anybody who sees a wandering bolt please redirect.

[Teflon]

I'm going through a similar process with my KV6 at the 'mo. Engine is having new pistons, liners, bearings, and a new clutch and will be going back in in a couple of weeks.

A great opportunity for some deep cleaning, but quite stressful looking at the pile of parts that are sitting in the shed :eek:.

Glad to hear yours went OK :}.

Cliff

[Lovel]

Engine replaced yesterday. A few pictures to whet the apetite. A few naughty words used. patience was required and much technical advice from Marc(Technical Advisor)
One gearbox bolt has gone AWOL. Anybody who sees a wandering bolt please redirect.

Just curios if the piston was an assembly with conrod too? What make is the piston and liner?

[Teflon]

Just curios if the piston was an assembly with conrod too? What make is the piston and liner?

Just to add to that, can I ask what the issue was that prompted the piston swap?

Cheers,

Cliff

[Lovel]

Just to add to that, can I ask what the issue was that prompted the piston swap?

Cheers,

Cliff

I believe it was this. https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=303464

Must give the OP credit for the amount of time he spent getting to the bottom of this as most would have given up long before he had. :clap:

[Fred Byrne]

That is correct. When the previous owner (my brother) had the timing belt replaced it appears the garage did not get the camwheel key into the camshaft slot properly. It sat on one edge of the slot and that edge has been slightly rounded as a result. I have replaced the camshaft. The piston on No.2 cylinder hit the exhaust valves and was destroyed. The cylinder liner was also damaged badly. A replacement piston+con-rod from Rimmers was quoted at ~£300 but on the Internet I found one for sale at £83 + £20 postage from Romania. It turned out to be genuine. The markings on the piston crown and on the conrod are the same as on the one that it replaced. I was afraid that the con-rod might have been distorted and having no means of testing this I decided to replace the con-rod. I bought the red hoisting bracket from Ebay for ~£20; it has been a godsend as it allows one to get the tilt angle correct when connecting the engine to the gearbox. Also, if I was doing this job again I would make the chain to the rear lifting eye about 2 inches longer than the one to the front. This rotates the engine towards the front slightly and makes lining up the bolt holes much easier. Otherwise it takes a bit of manhandling (womanhandling?) to get these correct. Incidentally, I was wrong when I said you needed to move the rear bracket to the front of the flange. This is not necessary I was stupid to do this.
Hope this helps

Fred

[Teflon]

That is correct. When the previous owner (my brother) had the timing belt replaced it appears the garage did not get the camwheel key into the camshaft slot properly. It sat on one edge of the slot and that edge has been slightly rounded as a result. I have replaced the camshaft. The piston on No.2 cylinder hit the exhaust valves and was destroyed. The cylinder liner was also damaged badly. A replacement piston+con-rod from Rimmers was quoted at ~£300 but on the Internet I found one for sale at £83 + £20 postage from Romania. It turned out to be genuine. The markings on the piston crown and on the conrod are the same as on the one that it replaced. I was afraid that the con-rod might have been distorted and having no means of testing this I decided to replace the con-rod. I bought the red hoisting bracket from Ebay for ~£20; it has been a godsend as it allows one to get the tilt angle correct when connecting the engine to the gearbox. Also, if I was doing this job again I would make the chain to the rear lifting eye about 2 inches longer than the one to the front. This rotates the engine towards the front slightly and makes lining up the bolt holes much easier. Otherwise it takes a bit of manhandling (womanhandling?) to get these correct. Incidentally, I was wrong when I said you needed to move the rear bracket to the front of the flange. This is not necessary I was stupid to do this.
Hope this helps

Fred

Thanks for the background info:}

Cliff