Replacement front left brake caliper

[Ginger Teddy]

Hi folks , I have brakes binding on front left, I ordered a refurb kit for caliper with piston etc and also ordered new pads but as I have never touched the brakes on any of the cars I have owned I want to get it right of course . I see plenty of you tube clips about it and on reflection it may be fairly easy for the experienced, I think I would be happier and safer to replace the said caliper with new. I see that some share the same as BMW but can anyone recommend a supplier of the above that is compatible with a 2004 tourer 1.8 turbo. I see in the past years that companies have been mentioned but seems a while back. I have managed to change the pre cat lambda sensor this week as mentioned recently ( the easy one lol) and be looking to do the other one shortly, any advice or information on suppliers as always, much appreciated regards Paul

[suzublu]

Rimmers do calipers https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Rover-75-Brake-Calipers--m-21281 easy enough to fit.
You might want to try and remove the slider pins on yours and regrease them with red brake grease. You'll need a 7mm allen key or socket to remove them. give them a good clean before greasing and refitting.:cool:

[vitesse]

I've used brakes international in the past and found them easy to deal with:
https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Rover/75

However if you've never touched the brakes before, I hope you realise that a new caliper involves disconnecting the hydraulic line and bleeding the brakes afterwards.

I'd try suzublu's suggestion first, you're going to have to remove them anyway with a new caliper. I'd also remove the pads, put something in place to prevent the piston moving out too far, step on the brake pedal which will then force the piston outwards, clean + rubber grease and use a clamp to push it evenly back in place - but perhaps that's the next course :}

Good luck

[Ginger Teddy]

Hi folks, took a few days to reply , but I did what was the easiest job to try first as suggested and removed the slider pins, cleaned them up and regreased with red brake grease and it did the job. Although I wasn`t aware the brakes were binding at anytime it was an advisery on the mot so needing dealing with. The thing that surprised me was that the brake pads had no uneven wear and are still good, so applied mintex ceratec anti brake squeal lubricant to rear of pads and put back together and yes job done and brakes are as should be, fully working. So as always thanks to all for advice much appreciated. Just a little niggle as I mentioned on here recently the eml came on and it`s the same one I have as usual P0420. I changed the pre cat sensor recently, and that didn`t keep it at bay, so I have the post cat purchased at same time to do next as advised and fingers crossed it might cure it before we have to part with the big bucks for a new cat, Regards Paul

[xsport]

hope its sorted but to me it seems like the calipers both need a strip down and clean. You probably will not need a seal kit and just need to force the pistons out with the brake pedal gently (put a peice of wood in there to stop it coming out too far ) then pull the rubber boot back to expose the piston and clean and lube up /rubber grease or brake fluid will do ok , and after a good clean as well, pop the boot back on . Just make sure the grooves are relocated correctly. Its not too difficult if you take your time , but if unsure , best to get someone to do it that knows. If you then still have problems , either reservice your old calipers or replace them.

[Split_Pin]

Really easy to replace calipers on these, Eurocarparts do them in exchange, never had any issues with them.

I find stripping and greasing only works for a few months before they bind again and for all the hassle you're aswell just to replace it and not have to worry again. Plus you're guaranteed a non seized bleed nipple on a new caliper.

[xsport]

Usually when the caliper binds the wheel will generate heat and you can feel the centre of the wheel being hotter. The whole set up including the caliper brackets need removing and a good clean. If there is any crud on the bracket to pads points the pads will pick up or not retract properly. The bores in these calipers need to be accessed and cleaned properly. If you look at them closely you will see that they are covered in alloy grey dust wear. no wonder they stick. The main cause of this problem is usually never mentioned at all. Lack of maintenance . How many people who have this problem , can say they have replaced their brake fluid regularly ? Not many i can bet, pointing to a seized bleed nipple as an excuse ... when in fact the nipple is seized due in part ,to never being used. Its one of the main service procedures to be carried out regularly from new ,as you would expect as the new calipers shed alloy on bedding in. Its always overlooked and leads to many problems , and at the end of the day you spend even more time and money to sort it out. For how long it takes and costs to replace the fluid , it is without doubt worth doing . ..

[Drewski]

Just been through all this with mine, one on the rear and one on the front, but new sliders, pads, piston and seals etc still didn't free it off so I'm with Split Pin above, may as well just replace the caliper, they come with pistons and seals. OP got lucky and it was just the sliders but I came to the conclusion that serious overheating from binding can damage the caliper.

[Mike Noc]

The only problem I have ever come across with the calipers on our cars (and I've done a few over the years) is the lip outboard of the piston seal corroding and seizing the piston. This is open to the elements although under the protective bellows, so just needs stripping and cleaning up with emery cloth. I put a bit of red rubber grease around it for added protection before refitting. I have never seen a problem with the caliper bores, pistons and sliders.

[Ginger Teddy]

Hi folks just an update really as regreasing the sliders hadn`t solved the issue so i thought it would possibly be the piston that was included in the repair kit .I had seen on youtube how they become rather cruddy and as regreasing the sliders was as far as I had ever ventured with brakes, that was going to be it for me . I have asked my son to do the job as I know he has done these jobs before and because he is so busy with work that`s why I gave it a go.I knew after a couple of recent short journeys that the alloy in question was covered in brake dust and warm ( as mentioned by others in earlier thread) more than the other three as offside rear was earlier in the year and that was caliper seized ( said garage).So I have ordered a new caliper from Rimmers. So we should be sorted by the weekend we hope.Just a quick question would locktite threadlocker be used on the caliper bolts because crikey they were difficult to loosen off ? As always all help and advice given by you folks is much appreciated, regards Paul

[SD1too]

Just a quick question would locktite threadlocker be used on the caliper bolts because crikey they were difficult to loosen off ?
Hello Paul,

Thread-locking compound is not specified (RAVE) for the caliper to hub bolts. They were difficult to remove because the torque is 100 Nm.

Simon

[Drewski]

I had a right game removing my bolts, I gave up on the RH one and took it to the local garage. It's a lot easier when working on a ramp from underneath, you can get more purchase on the bolt. With the ones I managed to get off, I used a ring spanner and dead blow mallet. My bolts were so rusty I used a smaller sized spanner and hammered it on. Trying the same method on the other side and the spanner just started to bend! You could try a bit of heat too, just watch out for the gaiter on the drive shaft.

[SD1too]

... I used a ring spanner and dead blow mallet. My bolts were so rusty I used a smaller sized spanner and hammered it on.
Thanks for describing your experience Drew which I'm sure we can all identify with at some point in our lives. For those that are interested, the technique I have developed to deal with such situations is:

Remove loose rust from bolt heads first with steel wire brushes. This increases the chance of the correct sized tool fitting properly.
Use a hexagonal socket and a suitable long lever to achieve the necessary torque.
Apply penetrating fluid at the bolt head/hub interface if required and leave for several hours.
When refitting, apply a small amount of thread lubricant (some will disagree with this quoting hydraulic effects and torque reduction but I've never had these theoretical problems in a lifetime of car maintenance).
Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to the recommended setting.
"Paint" the bolt head generously with Waxoyl.
On the road, avoid driving through standing water whenever possible.


With these precautions the treated bolts will release at the first attempt even ten years afterwards. :}

Simon

[Ginger Teddy]

Hi folks , just a quick update on the replacement caliper situation. We ( my son did the job with my assistance lol) and as he has the slim gene and is agile and
has youth on his side it wasn`t that difficult . The new caliper from Rimmers was fitted pads were ok , brakes bled and I noted the torque measurement given ( thanks) and also done the wheel nuts accordingly( seldom do you see the wheel nuts tightened via a torque wrench by tyre fitters). So thanks to all you folks with help and advice as always much appreciated. Hopefully nothing to do until a full service just before mot in sept, as have said previously may be looking at a new cat but 10 years on I still enjoy it as much now as I did then ,regards Paul

[Drewski]

Remove loose rust from bolt heads first with steel wire brushes. This increases the chance of the correct sized tool fitting properly.


When I brushed mine, each flat on the bolt head had a coat of rust about 1/8 inch thick that just folded off. The original tool wouldn't go anywhere near it. 'Still having problems bleeding and still have a sinking pedal, tried a reverse bleed today, as suggested on the sinking pedal thread, trying yet another new caliper, on the offside rear this time :shrug: