PDA

View Full Version : Clutch bleed tip


Livermpj
24th February 2007, 17:27
I thought it was about time I checked my clutch fluid, because the bite point was a bit low and I suspected there could be some air in the system.
So, thanks to Keith's "How to", I was forewarned about the rubber condom diaphram thing in the fluid reservoir.

What I did was bleed with the cap & condom removed, then I simply replaced the condom & cap when I'd finished. If you do this, there's no need to cut a hole in the condom!
I finished with the fluid level about 1/2 way up without the condom fitted, which was higher than when I started the job (I reckon there wasn't much in the reservoir!).

The only reason I mention this is I wonder if the condom/diaphram has some sort of purpose - it's the first time I've come across one like this. Maybe it's an atmospheric seal, to prevent the fluid absorbing moisture?

BTW, there's no mention of clutch bleeding in the workshop manual. It implies the system is "sealed for life"....... hmmmm.

Kandyman
24th February 2007, 19:28
Thanks for the feed back,

Is the clutch much lighter now ?

Rich
24th February 2007, 20:43
I'm not sure a bleed would cure the heavy left foot syndrome would it?

I can see it altering the bite point though.

That said, if Livermpj answers yes, I'll be out there tomorrow :eek:

Livermpj
25th February 2007, 12:12
Hi all,
Yes, the clutch is a little bit lighter now, more noticable towards the bottom of the pedal travel. The pedal definately feels firmer, more like there's a proper mechanical connection between the pedal and the clutch (previously it was a bit spongey). That's after 6 years use BTW.

I supose the release bearing's being pushed that bit further now, allowing the diaphram sping to be pushed over centre at full travel - IIRC, that's why diaphram clutches are lighter than the old coil spring jobs (showing may age now!).

Anyway, I'd definately recommend a quick bleed every now and then. It's a good chance to check the fluid level, so hopefully you won't get caught out with a sudden clutch failure miles from home due to gradual fluid loss.
As earlier threads have indicated, you need fidddly fingers.....

edwardnj
9th March 2007, 18:58
I have the Haynes manual and it does refer to clutch bleeding in there page6.2. It says that the brake fluid reservoir serves the master clutch cylinder as well as the breaks and there is a bleed nipple on the clutch hydraulic system on top of the transmission. There is no mention of taking the cover off the master cylinder and cutting diaphragm.

Any thoughts? i am new to this but the Haynes way seems alot easier but does it do the same job?

Phil
9th March 2007, 20:04
Does Haynes really say that? Unfortunately there are separate reservoirs with the one for the clutch being positioned by a muppet right above the pedal.

GreyGhost
9th March 2007, 20:33
I see where the confusion has arisen. Section 5 page 6.3 where it suggests using a "one man brake bleeding kit" attached to the bleed screw, it then goes on to say see Brake bleeding Chapter 9 for operation. As Phil says the topping up is done via the clutch master cylinder which is conveniently situated just above the pedal. :)

newk
14th August 2007, 18:41
on every hydraulic system iv serviced or repaired wether that be brakes or clutches the service shedule has always stated that the fluid be changed every 2 years, i cant see how rover has sealed for life system.

Phil
15th August 2007, 20:47
I work for a Honda dealer and clutch fluid is never a changed item.

T-Cut
16th August 2007, 01:40
Brake/clutch fluids are based on ethylene glycol (like the OAT coolant additive). The weakness of glycols is they absorb water from the atmosphere (hygroscopic). This dilutes the fluid over time and effectively lowers its boiling point. Because brakes/clutches get hot, it's possible to loose hydraulic lock between the pedal and the actuating cylinder due to 'steam' generation. This behaves like air in the system. It seems the MGR clutch reservoir was given a waterproof seal (the condom) to prevent the moisture absorbtion. I suppose it was intended to last the lifetime of the car. Unfortunately, the slave cylinder and master cylinder seals seem to fail a bit too early, so accessing the reservoir to enable bleeding and topping up becomes necessary. The reference to a common brake and clutch reservoir in Haynes is total fantasy as far as I can see.

TC

Keith
16th August 2007, 10:58
Yes I agree the condom thingy is probably supposed to prevent water absorbtion as the clutch fluid is not included in the 30,000 mile bi annual fluid change that applies to the brakes

Hmm mine has not had that done! Time for a poll