Alarm connectors?

[mantianak]

I posted up a while ago that my alarm wasn't working on my ZT, didn't notice at first but think it hasn't been working from the day I bought it. The advice given was to see if it's enabled on T4.

I've not had it tested on T4 because of the nearest place isn't too near and they would charge a fair amount I'd think.

I did however notice my reversing lights weren't working and discovered the switch on the gearbox wasn't even plugged in! This led me to think maybe a connector for the alarm hasn't been plugged in either.

What connectors can I check and where can I find them on the car? I'm hoping it's going to be that simple :D

[W953 BJX]

I spent ages with mine trying to work out if the alarm worked, ended up jumping up and down on the towball and slapping the window to make a big noise, that set it off... But all that was enabled was the hazard flashers and it immobilised! Silent and Useless!

[mantianak]

Do you still get the flashing light on the dash when locking? Nothing for me. Can't seem to set it off in any way either. All fuses check out ok.

[W953 BJX]

no the dash light on mine only flashed when it immobilised once I'd set it off, it doesnt flash all the time... I thought it would make sense if it did, like a deterant, took agesto set it off, you could have it on a trailer easy peasy, even when it finally did go off it just twitched its hazards! Pants!

[W953 BJX]

The only reason I tested it was I parked outside the inlaws house and was sat having a cup of tea and just happened to glance at it as a little oik outside absolutely belted a football at it, and it didnt react to that at all, which I thought was a bit dodgy, I mean I don't want it going off when a butterfly goes past it, but it would be reassuring if something relatively invasive set it off! But now I know all it does anyway is flash its hazards, seems a bit futile!

[Chilljohn]

easiest way to test if connected is leave a door opn and lock the car via the fob the alarm horn should peep or if a batt back up one a siren should make a noise

anohter way of testing alarm is to sit in the car lock the car with the fob and press the unlock buton next to the hazard light this should set the alarm off as most of the cars only have a perimitor alarm with out interia protection you will look a bit daft sat there waving ot your car lol

fool proof way is to get some one to press the bonnet open switch down lock car with fob wit 2 mins , then let go of switch

the alarm siren should be connected where the pollon filter is
as per pic hth

[Tam]

Mine doesn't make any noise either , haven't really looked into it to much but i did read if you sit in the car and lock doors with fob , then press the unlock button beside the hazards the alarm should go off . Tried it and could here hazards clicking on and off but no sound from horn ? . Before that i tried to set it off by sitting inside and jumping about with the alarm armed , bit of a waste of time as no motion sensors fitted inside .:getmecoat:

[mantianak]

Thanks all. Will give it a go later today. Will report back!

[mantianak]

Did several tests today.

Sat in car, locked with fob, push open lock button, nothing.
Sat in car, locked with fob, pulled bonnet release, nothing.
Left door, boot, boonet open (different combos), locked via fob, nothing.
Rechecked fused, nothing.

With all these tests not even the indicators flashed. Nor was there a sound to notify a door being left open.

The alarm horn by the ECU was plugged in. Did notice another plug not in use flopping about but nothing there to plug it into. Don't think it's for the alarm but it's right next to the horn.

These checks still bring me back to my original questions. What other connectors/wire can I check to make sure it's connected up correctly?

[Chilljohn]

the other connector is for hte batt back up alarm sounder , does the red led flash on the dash when locked ?

[mantianak]

No, nothing to indicate it even has an alarm.

[Chilljohn]

have you checked the fuses ?

[mantianak]

Yes. None of them have blown, well not that I could see. Perhaps it'll be worth replacing s a few just in case.

[Chilljohn]

just wondered as the alarm sounder has its own fuse but id have thought the red led on hte dash would still have flashed

[mantianak]

So with 3 things not working, those being horn, indicators lights (when alarms going off) and no dash light. Would it be likely that they would have a single common fault?

[Chilljohn]

poss or that hte alarm is still set in transit mode ?

[mantianak]

IS that a T4 jobbie?

[Chilljohn]

its the only way i can think about seeing for the transit mode yes

[mantianak]

:( I was hoping to avoid that. But it's probebly the easiest way to figure out what going on.

[Greeners]

Try fuse 29, which should be a 5amp...

[Moonstone]

Some overseas owners have reported their alarm had been disabled. It was apparently a requirement in some countries.
This may have been done by a previous owner unable or unwilling to fix a fault, though it would have needed a dealer's expertise. Do you have a service history? The garage might have a record of what was done.

[mantianak]

Not had time to check that fuse yet - on the list for tomorrow.

I've dug out the service history. The service before the last at 75k miles shows it was done at a rover dealer and was the big 'C' service. It has ticked 'Fit Vehicle protection kit' and 'replace alarm handset batteries'. Not sure what they are to be honest but I think it's safe to say the alarm was working then. Since then no evidence of the alarm being disabled.

[Greeners]

Not had time to check that fuse yet - on the list for tomorrow.

I've dug out the service history. The service before the last at 75k miles shows it was done at a rover dealer and was the big 'C' service. It has ticked 'Fit Vehicle protection kit' and 'replace alarm handset batteries'. Not sure what they are to be honest but I think it's safe to say the alarm was working then. Since then no evidence of the alarm being disabled.

Vehicle protection kit, is seat and wing covers, and floor mats..

Handset batteries is the battery in the key fob

[mantianak]

In that case there's nothing suggesting it was ever on or off. Would have thought it would be noticed at the service though.

Changed the fuses but didn't work. Manual said fuse 26 for alarm, also tried a few others. As much as I don't want to, I think it will be a T4 jobbie.

[mantianak]

Just a thought, are there any relays to check?

[ianfletcher]

On older rovers the alarm could be deactivated by a 4 digit code that was entered into the car by turning the drivers door lock barrel left so many times for the first digit then so many times for the second digit and so on. Maybe if this feature still works it might of been done in the past and the only way it can be activated again is by rover.

[mantianak]

Just got the ZT back from having a T4 scan. The BCU was registering a fault but it didn't say what exactly as well as a few others. The technicians notes are below.

Inlet manifold fault (oh no it's starting to rattle!)
BCU fault
ABS fault OSF (think this maybe the loose airbag plug I fixed the other day)
Superlock relay - permanent (?)
Drivers door lock relay (?)
Passengers door lock relay (?)
Common door unlock relay fault (think this is the passenger door that doesn't unlock - needs new actuator)
Window bus fault (?)
ECU immobilizer error code 2000

Out of all those he said the repeating ones are
BCU fault
common door unlock
inlet manifold

Half of that means nothing to me. Is it likely the BCU itself is knackered or something else needs doing to get the alarm working?

[JohnDotCom]

Sounds like a faulty BCU that needs replacing.
Can't comment on the Inlet manifold though.

From number on it check with Les at SMC Trading and see if he has one for sale secondhand / or for testing.

[mantianak]

I'll bear that in mind. Although I'd rather not buy one until I've exhausted all other options. I've just read up on here about kiwirover who had the s similar issue. Turned out to be some kind of sensor that was mashed by the sunroof. I also had a jammed sunroof a while ago which I fixed, may have damaged something. Just need to figure out what I'm looking for.

Before sourcing a BCU, a new passenger lock should be fitted and perhaps get a new manifold before it rattles out of control.

[mantianak]

So I've discovered there's no ultrasonic sensors in the car so it can't be that. I've also tried another BCU with no luck. Replaced the faulty door lock but no effect on the alarm. And not related to the alarm at all - I've replaced the manifold.

I am really stumped. What else is there to check? Not even the T4 could identify the problem.

[Chilljohn]

when on hte t4 did they check that the alarm was not in transit mode ?

[mantianak]

I did mention that to him before. But to be honest afterwards I had very little faith in his knoledge of the 75/ZT's. I'm sure I could have acheived more myself with a T4. Would in transit be saved to the ECU or BCU?

I think I should dig up some electical diag and test as many componants as possible.

[mantianak]

Still churning ideas in my head to why my alarm isn't arming. One idea is that the car still thinks a door is open. I know the instrument panel displays an open door (which it doesn't for me). But if any of the sensors were unplugged or faulty would it still show on the dash as open and would the alarm not arm?

Edit: I suppose what I'm really asking is if the latch micro switches are what tiggers the 'door open' light on the dash.

[mantianak]

I want to revisit this again now it getting warmer and lighter in the evenings.

So far I've tried 2 different BCU's (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=40078&highlight=alarm)(thanks again Greeners) without success (unless I did something very wrong when swapping them, which I don't think I did)

Can anybody suggest the next place to start looking? Would the IPK be causing errors?

Is there any input/output wires I can somehow test to see if the signal is working?

What else does the arming of the alarm depend on?

[chrissyboy]

I want to revisit this again now it getting warmer and lighter in the evenings.

So far I've tried 2 different BCU's (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=40078&highlight=alarm)(thanks again Greeners) without success (unless I did something very wrong when swapping them, which I don't think I did)

Can anybody suggest the next place to start looking? Would the IPK be causing errors?

Is there any input/output wires I can somehow test to see if the signal is working?

What else does the arming of the alarm depend on?


you said there was another plug by the horn .. is it the same as the one plugged in ,just a thought but if they are the same then may be the wrong plug is plugged in . have you done a reset .disconnect battery for 30 mins ,just like a pc .before you do it make sure you have code for radio and if you have sat nav and that make sure it is shut down properly .

[mantianak]

I think (from memory) the plugs were different so aren't interchangable. When I wired up my amp I disconnected the battery for over an hour so I've indirectly tried that too.

The spare connector I think is for the battery backup, which my car doesn't have. I wonder if it's worth getting hold of one and seeing that that makes a difference.

[Greeners]

Tricky one this........Thinking out load, there's something amiss between the car locking, and the alarm arming.

I would plump for it being a locking problem, and as the ECU doesn't see all the locking defaults met, it doesn't arm the alarm.

I shall go back to the manual and see if I can glean anything new.

[mantianak]

Now you've said that I remember a while ago the driver lock stopped working via the fob. I bought a new one off ebay but the same day it arrived the lock started working again.

My previous 75 had the same kind of lock problem but the alarm did work still. But perhaps this time it is somehow affecting it.

I should fit this new lock actuator first I think.

[Greeners]

I would try a new drivers latch first.....as that's the one that sends the BCU the key bits of data

[mantianak]

I'll try it, I have the part on standby already. Fingers crossed!

[chrissyboy]

I think (from memory) the plugs were different so aren't interchangable. When I wired up my amp I disconnected the battery for over an hour so I've indirectly tried that too.

The spare connector I think is for the battery backup, which my car doesn't have. I wonder if it's worth getting hold of one and seeing that that makes a difference.


im thinking that it has to be that the car is not picking up the doors are shut .are the switches free of dust and grime,stopping them from fully going in ?open the boot and make sure it is tightly closed .maybe a loose/ broken wire are a connector not connected the earth on the system .


this has got me intrigued,:D got me thinking about my alarm now .although i read the alarm isnt like the ofter market ones that have the rockers ,just goes off if a attemp to break in happens,have these alarm got a panic thingy .holding the key fog buton in set them off .,i dont think the have , just wondering if there is a broken wire from indicators they flash when setting alarm ,all the wiring under these cars go rock hard and snap at the slightest touch

[mantianak]

Just finished fitting the new lock actuator. It works fine, locks/unlocks, indicators flash how they should, no open door sign on the dash when doors are shut, but still no alarm arming :( It’s the same as before, no change.

Does the key lock have any micro switches in it or anything? Or is all that done in the actuator?

[stocktake]

No electrics to the lock assy, sorry cannot help on this one but I am following the thread ;)

[chrissyboy]

:DJust finished fitting the new lock actuator. It works fine, locks/unlocks, indicators flash how they should, no open door sign on the dash when doors are shut, but still no alarm arming :( It’s the same as before, no change.

Does the key lock have any micro switches in it or anything? Or is all that done in the actuator?


have you tried pairing the key to the car ? hold the button in for longer than 4 seconds while pointing at car .

[mantianak]

No electrics to the lock assy, sorry cannot help on this one but I am following the thread ;)

On the contrary you have helped. I know not to replace the lock now :)

[mantianak]

:D


have you tried pairing the key to the car ? hold the button in for longer than 4 seconds while pointing at car .

Not since I've replaced the lock today, I did tried that originally without success. I'll give it another go to be sure.

[mantianak]

Just tried the 4+ seconds lock reset. Nothing happened, and I mean nothing! If I remember correctly on my previous R75 the locks reset (try to pop open even though they are already up), this didn't happen at all just now, nothing to even suggest it’s been reset.

Also on my old R75 when I locked the doors but had one open still it would beep. On my ZT there is no beep (obviously, no working alarm) but also the locks don't even attempt to lock, which I think is different to how the 75 operated. I'm not sure if I'm forgetful though. Can somebody confirm on their car?

[chrissyboy]

Just tried the 4+ seconds lock reset. Nothing happened, and I mean nothing! If I remember correctly on my previous R75 the locks reset (try to pop open even though they are already up), this didn't happen at all just now, nothing to even suggest it’s been reset.

Also on my old R75 when I locked the doors but had one open still it would beep. On my ZT there is no beep (obviously, no working alarm) but also the locks don't even attempt to lock, which I think is different to how the 75 operated. I'm not sure if I'm forgetful though. Can somebody confirm on their car?


i know this is a silly question ,but ... are you sure the batteries in the fob are ok ..

[mantianak]

Have tried both fobs. But from previous posts I understand the alarm should arm even when using the key.

[chrissyboy]

Have tried both fobs. But from previous posts I understand the alarm should arm even when using the key.


looking in the haynes book the alarm has its own ecu in the drivers foot well are all wires plugged in .if the indictors are working as they should them ,you know the problem it in the alarm circuit . it dont say anything about any fault finding in the haynew book,im sure i read you are gettinfg the open light come up on dash .is the water in the bonnet senor or the rubbers need ajusting ..,dont them message centrs tell you what is and what aint working . limit all searching if it does as it will tell you which door sensor is showing not shut .. one last thing .the rubber sealing the wires going in the door is on and thight is it .might have a bit of water got on the connector for the locking
,if all this has been looked at id say there no other options left but a t4 session .

[Greeners]

Hmmm....well you've discounted one thing........the EWS unit is the immobiliser unit, which lives in the drivers footwell. It may be worth opening it and see if it's suffered any water damage in the past, but you will need a security Torx bit to open it. At least it's no cost to check.

Failing that, it'll be a T4 session to see if the alarm is enabled.

[mantianak]

When doors are open it shows on the dash so I can only assume the sensors are working, but perhaps the signal isn't going to all the correct places. Such a complex electronic system.

I've take a look at the EWS unit. When I took it for a T4 session it was specifically for this problem. Would be my luck if they didn't check to see if it was enabled! Wasn't impressed by them anyway so need to find another T4 locally.

[mantianak]

hmmmm.... interesting. Found a part number for it YWC105360 and is on Italian ebay. http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://cgi.ebay.it/BMW-E46-316i-EWS-3-Steuergerat-61-35-4-100-188-/350128559660&ei=p_3yS-PyLduNsAa7hZWXDA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBcQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3DYWC106531%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff

[Greeners]

hmmmm.... interesting. Found a part number for it YWC105360 and is on Italian ebay. http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://cgi.ebay.it/BMW-E46-316i-EWS-3-Steuergerat-61-35-4-100-188-/350128559660&ei=p_3yS-PyLduNsAa7hZWXDA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBcQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3DYWC106531%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff

That's what it looks like, but ISTR it's coded to the car,

[FROGGY]

The T4 is only as good as its operator, and from what I read on here, a hell of a lot of them are no good.
It's a luxury I don't have over here, but there are a few guys on this forum who DO know what they are doing with a T4, and in the long run it may cost you less to approach one of them.

Mick

[mantianak]

I've not yet checked the EWS module (been busy fixing the brakes on the wife's car) but I have been doing some research on the net. I found a diagrame showing that the EWS patches information from the following.

1) Message center (hi-line only) (I don't have)
2) Instrument pack
3) immobilisation ECU
4) Key transponder
5) Ring antenna
6) BCU
7) ECU
8) Starter motor
9) auto transmission switch (my ZT is manual anyway)

Now when I think back to when I first bought the car it broke down (cam sensor broken). When the recovery bloke came out, he was also the bloke who sold it to me, he was convinced it was a dead battery even though I kept telling him it wasn't so he kept trying to start it untill he fried the starter motor.

So this makes me think 2 things.

1. He replaced the starter motor but didn't do something correctly. I also noticed he didn't connect the reverse switch after replacing the clutch so perhaps something like that with the starter motor. Is the motor accessable without removing anything?

2. Where he turned it over so much perhaps he damaged something else?

So I think I'll take a look at the start motor as well as the EWS... when I have time.

[BigRuss]

The EWS is just the immobiliser module it has nothing to do with the alarm system that's handled by the BCU.;)

The only connection the EWS has with the BCU is to check the locking status of the car as it's not possible to start the car with it superlocked.

Russ

[mantianak]

So with the EWS out of the picture I've gone back to looking at all things connected to the alarm (or BCU). Listed below is everything I could find which is perhaps linked to the alarm arming.

1) Bonnet switch - Works
2) BCU
3) Instrument Pack - Works
4) Alarm LED - Does not work
5) Light Switch Module - Works
6) Volumetric sensor - N/A
7) Front right door actuator - Works (recently replace)
8) Remote FOB key - Works (both of them)
9) Rear right hand door actuator - Works
10) Drivers door barrel & switch - Works - open doors anyway
11) Fuel flap release actuator - Works
12) Boot lock barrel and switch - Works
13) Boot lock actuator - Works
14) Rear left door actuator - Works
15) RF receiver - Works - presumably as doors unlock
16) Master lock switch (centre console) - Works
17) Front left door actuator - Works - replaced about 1 year ago
18) Inertia switch - No idea, presumably works.
19) Alarm sounder - BBUS or horn - Does not work. No BBUS fitted & still a bit unsure on standard operation of this.

So by testing all things they appear to work with the two exceptions. So I'm guessing either it's the IPK or the alarm module. How would I go about testing the alarm module? Do they cost much? Would it be a simple swap or a T4 session required?