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orac
14th June 2009, 10:28
Hi Everyone

Tested my VIS motors today and it appears that both are faulty, I've all ready repaired them once before and have now decided that I will purchase new ones.

My question is where is best value for purchasing geniune new ones?

Part Numbers:
1x MKE100102 (Power) & 1x MKE100110 (Balance)

Regards

JohnDotCom
14th June 2009, 11:50
Try E Car Parts, Sandy Beds, (or Rimmers.)
They are XPart Parts dealers and generally give very good prices on Parts.
They advertise on E Bay so you should find their phone number on there for enquires.
ECP 2004 I believe is their EBay Name.

Retail:
MKE100102 Motor assembly multi point injection/TBi - butterfly valve control motor £90.64 + VAT

MKE100110 Motor assembly multi point injection/TBi - balance valve motor £72.96 + VAT

ianfletcher
14th June 2009, 11:59
Hi Everyone

Tested my VIS motors today and it appears that both are faulty, I've all ready repaired them once before and have now decided that I will purchase new ones.

My question is where is best value for purchasing geniune new ones?

Part Numbers:
1x MKE100102 (Power) & 1x MKE100110 (Balance)

Regards
Why dont you have another go at repairing them by screwing the switches down to the circuit board because it seems the switches are the weak point. I was repairing mine every other day until i screwed them down and i've never had any trouble with them since (touch wood) :D

workaholic_ro
14th June 2009, 12:21
Why dont you have another go at repairing them by screwing the switches down ...

...if they are made by Burgess; if they are made by Cherry they have no holes, but there is still a cure. Desolder them, give a good clean to the surfaces in contact (acetone or isopropilic alcohol) and use a heat resistant epoxy paste to glue them down; then resolder the ends.
I can recommend Bison Aqua.

BTW, Cherry switches are better because of the spheric shape of the small push buttons.

orac
15th June 2009, 08:21
Try E Car Parts, Sandy Beds, (or Rimmers.)
They are XPart Parts dealers and generally give very good prices on Parts.
They advertise on E Bay so you should find their phone number on there for enquires.
ECP 2004 I believe is their EBay Name.

Retail:
MKE100102 Motor assembly multi point injection/TBi - butterfly valve control motor £90.64 + VAT

MKE100110 Motor assembly multi point injection/TBi - balance valve motor £72.96 + VAT

Gone and purchased both VIS Motors from www.bsmotors.com (http://www.bsmotors.com) (Sandy Beds)
Cost £178 inclusive VAT and P&P
Guy was very helpfull and gave a 10% discount.
Rimmers was considerable more!
I will Keep the Faulty units i remove from the 75 and resolder them and keep as spares.

JohnDotCom
15th June 2009, 12:22
Yes that is the same Company.
Uses different name on EBay.

Lates
15th June 2009, 12:54
Do you guys know the internals are slightly different now and failure frequency is beginning to rise ??

workaholic_ro
15th June 2009, 14:53
Do you guys know the internals are slightly different now and failure frequency is beginning to rise ??

Axicom relays instead Siemens and Burgess switches instead Cherry. :mad: ...and the price is beginning to rise too.:mad:

Lates
15th June 2009, 20:58
Axicom relays instead Siemens and Burgess switches instead Cherry. :mad: ...and the price is beginning to rise too.:mad:

...and the gear as well has changed plastic grades.

orac
18th July 2009, 18:23
The dreaded manifold rattle has returned, checked the new Vis motors I purchased and they are fine, so the butterflys may of become detached inside manifold :shrug:

Anyway think i'm going to go down the road of purchasing a new manifold.
eBay has new ones for £459, i'm not sure if to risk purchasing a second hand one. What you reckon?

Anyone know where to purchase a new manifold for less then £459?
Don't mind if it is less the VIS motors as I will transfer the new ones over.

Regards

PS: Anyone know how much labour time Rover use to book for changing manifold?

Typhoon190
18th July 2009, 18:32
The dreaded manifold rattle has returned, checked the new Vis motors I purchased and they are fine, so the butterflys may of become detached inside manifold :shrug:

Anyway think i'm going to go down the road of purchasing a new manifold.
eBay has new ones for £459, i'm not sure if to risk purchasing a second hand one. What you reckon?

Anyone know where to purchase a new manifold for less then £459?
Don't mind if it is less the VIS motors as I will transfer the new ones over.

Regards

PS: Anyone know how much labour time Rover use to book for changing manifold?

Haven't seen any manifolds cheaper than that new. Do you not fancy changing it over yourself? Plenty of help here. Had a go myself a few months back. Haynes manual, an extra pair if hands and you should be ok. :shrug:

orac
18th July 2009, 18:36
Haven't seen any manifolds cheaper than that new. Do you not fancy changing it over yourself? Plenty of help here. Had a go myself a few months back. Haynes manual, an extra pair if hands and you should be ok. :shrug:

How long did DIY take to do?
Is it all easily accessible or do you have to crawl underneath the car etc?
Anythink else you need to purchase apart from manifold. Gaskets etc?

Regards

stocktake
18th July 2009, 18:42
How long did DIY take to do?
Is it all easily accessible or do you have to crawl underneath the car etc?
Anythink else you need to purchase apart from manifold. Gaskets etc?

Regards

Allow your self half a day, I havent needed any gaskets to change mine.

In a nutshell its, unclip and unplug all the cables, wires and pipes , undo six bolts and off it comes. :)

No crawling about under the car all from the top, there is a how to somewhere. Take a picture of it all connected up to refer to when you want to re assemble.

Steffan
18th July 2009, 21:17
You'll need some torx bits for removing the throttle body from the manifold.

The two rear bolts on the manifold are hard to reach. They are easier to get at if you take off the centre soundproofing panel (a few plastic nuts), the metal bulkead panel behind it (2 bolts) and, to help see what you're doing, the plastic grille cover immeditely below the driver's side windscreen wiper.

Most of the pipes you need to remove have a red or grey collar which you press down to pull out the pipes.

Go easy on the four front bolts when fitting the new manifold - they are big but they are very low torque as the manifold is plastic (let the gaskets do all the hard work).

stocktake
18th July 2009, 22:08
Sorry if I made it sound simple, it is a bit of a pig of a job :( but it is do-able. I did not need to remove the throttle assy to remove the manifold as my replacement had one on already. As said there is a very comprehensive "how to" about on here

Typhoon190
18th July 2009, 22:46
I did end up replacing the three small black rubber gaskets just to be on the safe side (had bought them anyway) but re used the three large green rubber o-rings.

It's these that made it hard removing the manifold from the lower manifold for me. As mentioned, make sure you remember all the breathers you remove, I had to take it all apart again when I forgot one that went underneath :o .

orac
23rd July 2009, 21:34
Ordered a new inlet manifold,
I've searched the forum for a "how to" with regards to changing the inlet manifold but no sucess.

Does anyone know where on the forum or the net i can find a guide to changing the inlet manifold.

Regards

stocktake
23rd July 2009, 21:48
Ordered a new inlet manifold,
I've searched the forum for a "how to" with regards to changing the inlet manifold but no sucess.

Does anyone know where on the forum or the net i can find a guide to changing the inlet manifold.

Regards


Doesn't get much better than this. :) it is actually how to change the t'stat but includes the manifold

http://www.jimmcglynn.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/zt/projects/thermostat/index.html

buddydavis
17th August 2009, 02:58
Hello pals, the same symptoms happened to my rover 75 petrol in Asia. The vis motor almost gone. Had found the root cause.

The oil (engine oil??) in the inlet breather make the plastic valve expand, and the joint there is sticky too. The ECU drive a even larger current to the motor to turn the value one and finally, year after year, the motor or the position-limit switch's joints burnt !

That means, just changing the motor can cure it for a while but shortly the same fault will come back.

My cure is to resolder both joints VIS motors, taken the balance valve out and file it making sure the flip is smooth.
For the power valve, unable to do so, so can only clean it with carb cleaner.
Unbelieveable, the car restored to silky performance......

Just would like to share some ideas on mine, and hope it works well in yours as well.....