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Simon
20th March 2007, 18:32
Car is (for those that don't know) ZT KV6 Manual 'box + Taurus DIY-fitted parking sensors.

I think I may be developing a faulty reverse switch. When I drop the car into reverse there is sometimes a delay in hearing the "ready" beep from the Taurus parking sensors. Could this be a sign my reverse switch (the one on the gearbox) is developing a fault?

It only happens intermitantly and whenever I try to elliminate the Taurus being faulty by seeing if the reverse lights come on, the fault never occurs... typical! :unlucky:

Thoughts peeps?

Keith
20th March 2007, 18:36
Simon run a temporary light or an LED or something from one of the Reverse lights to somewhere visible in the rear view mirror

Easiest way to know for sure

Simon
20th March 2007, 18:39
Simon run a temporary light or an LED or something from one of the Reverse lights to somewhere visible in the rear view mirror

Easiest way to know for sure

Good idea that. Gives me an excuse to go fettle with the car too... hehe :D

sworks
20th March 2007, 19:07
reverse switches are prone to failure

Keith
20th March 2007, 20:05
Yep mine on the CDT lasted 5 years or 30,000 miles take your pic!

Very easy to change Simon and only about £8 might be best just to get one as probably quicker than messing about with a test bulb

Simon
20th March 2007, 20:08
£8? Sounds reasonable.

Need to ask local X-Part dealer to order me a boot liner grab-handle so might as well buy a switch while I'm there too... :)

blueisbest
6th November 2007, 16:31
I seem to have the same problem on my 2003 MG-ZT cdti. No parking sensors or reversing light's.
Were about's on the ZT is the switch located?:o

Keith
6th November 2007, 19:50
Sticking out of the gearbox, remove nearside wheel and wheel arch liner and if yours is a manual it is the only thing with a cable in it.

Be careful if an auto as people have undone the wrong thing and messed up the box

Isis
6th November 2007, 20:10
Keith

Have you got any suggestions for removing the screws in the wheel arch liner that just go round and round and....

Keith
6th November 2007, 20:16
Easy

Use pliers to hold the outer ring, trick is to have a well fitting screwdriver and put no inward pressure at all on it as you turn it, or simply lever the entire thing out as one, I use a modified fork. then you can push the screw out from the other side

Worse case you might have to buy a few more

blueisbest
7th November 2007, 06:47
Nice one Keith. You dont have the part number for the switch by chance? My ZT is manual, thank's for the advice.

Keith
7th November 2007, 10:11
It should be in the part number thread

Isis
7th November 2007, 13:23
Blow me. After not working for two days, the reversing lights and sensors have started again. I guess I'm going to have to sort this out though, a while ago, after the reassuring beep, I still managed to scar my bumper probably because the thing is intermittant.

Keith
7th November 2007, 19:06
That is quite common Pete
I have found even so called faulty ones work ok if you take them out and operate the plunger fully a few times

Maybe the striker in the gearbox does not push the plunger in as far as it can or should go and doing it manually puts a bit more preesure on the contacts and cleans them up or something

comet
8th November 2007, 14:47
My 75.. to change the switch I only take off the wheel(n/s), 19mm long skt, and a small screwy (or long fingernail) to undo the clip. I found that on one of my old switches the peening of the ally shoulder on the switch was poor, re did again and it has lasted longer than a year so far.. The part number is UMB 100090 and I have found out that the landrover switch is the same but costs £30.00 plus vat????.

marimasse
8th November 2007, 15:35
I had the switch changed under warranty when the car was 6 months old. Then it failed again early last year, obviously a couple of months after warranty expiry...
.
Anyway, suspecting (and hoping) it was just a matter of faulty contacts (in the end, it's just a couple of contacts with a spring), I tried to fix it on my own.
.
I found the job extremely simple; I removed the switch (near the front left wheel) without raising the car and just steering all to the left (no wheel removing). I then cleaned it with some spray contact cleaner and pressed it repeatedly. I fitted it again (without applying too much torque) and it has always worked since.
.
I hope it does not "feel" this message of mine or read the forum; it could decide to fail again, maybe tonight....

Isis
8th November 2007, 20:15
Did you remove the wheel arch liner or did you manage to get to the switch from inside the engine bay?

marimasse
9th November 2007, 05:02
Did you remove the wheel arch liner or did you manage to get to the switch from inside the engine bay?
I did not remove anything but the switch itself.

I got to it from outside, just laying on the floor near the front left wheel completely steered to the left (or to the right, I don't remember this). From that position I could clearly see and easily reach the switch.