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View Full Version : bonnet/bumper shutline adjustment


pondweed
12th November 2006, 16:26
has anyone got any actual measurements for what is desirable/achieveable? I have only started looking at the shutline now I've put the bumper back on, and it now looks too large although I read the How to - very good - and adjusted according to the notes there.
I did wonder how one is able to move the bumper UP... the bolts along the top edge dont seem to account for this.
Are some people using spacers underneath the plastic panel and if so, what spec?

GreyGhost
12th November 2006, 16:39
has anyone got any actual measurements for what is desirable/achieveable? I have only started looking at the shutline now I've put the bumper back on, and it now looks too large although I read the How to - very good - and adjusted according to the notes there.
I did wonder how one is able to move the bumper UP... the bolts along the top edge dont seem to account for this.
Are some people using spacers underneath the plastic panel and if so, what spec?

Spacers are in my case galvanised washers. Can't remember exactly, I think it was five on the two centre fixings down to two on the outers.
There aren't any measurments as such, I think as much as you can get out of it is the best you can hope for.
I had someone insert washers while I lifted the bumper, took a few goes before I was satisfied.

Christopher
12th November 2006, 16:45
Silly point Grey Ghost, but is there any benefit to using non-metal washers to try and stave of local rusting at these point?? I need to adjust teh shutline on mine and am thinking that what you describe above is the only way for me as I have no more play using the existing "settings".

Cheers

GreyGhost
12th November 2006, 16:51
Silly point Grey Ghost, but is there any benefit to using non-metal washers to try and stave of local rusting at these point?? I need to adjust teh shutline on mine and am thinking that what you describe above is the only way for me as I have no more play using the existing "settings".

Cheers

I have to admit that galvanised washers were used because that is what was to hand. Thinking about it now it was not the best choice.

Keith
12th November 2006, 20:39
Jon most of the adjustment should be done by the bolts holding the alloy cross member that the slam panel bolts on to if fitted correctly washers should not be necessary imho

pondweed
13th November 2006, 13:45
ahhh... very interesting. An alternative school!
So, do I surmise from this that, iyho, the alloy cross member should just be pulled as high as it can go before being tightened... and that it, with gravity, can slip a bit over time causing people to find other avenues to solve this problem?
Surely the cross member couldnt be, by default, suggested as a trimming device as it is a stage further back in the process! If so it would seem frightfully inefficient...taking bumper on and off and resetting the member?

Christopher
13th November 2006, 13:58
Jon most of the adjustment should be done by the bolts holding the alloy cross member that the slam panel bolts on to if fitted correctly washers should not be necessary imho

Can you expand on "alloy cross-member" please? where/what does that look like??

Cheers

Keith
13th November 2006, 14:21
This thing

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/12454b7f283c7ff.jpg

The slam panel the bumper bolts to is sandwiched behind it so I reckon (I could be totally wrong) that if the slam panel was fitted at the right height in the first place (assuming there is some flexibility there) then washers will not be required or at at least fewer of them

Keith
13th November 2006, 14:24
Jon chances are early in the production procees either tollerances were tighter or maybe a few trial fits adjusting in between was performed to get the shut line as good as poss during assembly

Maybe later the lob it on approach was adopted to save time and money?

The ideal way to get a good fit imho is to buy a bumper from the Breakers then cut the front and bottom off so the crossmember bolt can be reached then you can adjust to your hearts content :)

Christopher
13th November 2006, 14:27
Thanks Keith. But is that monster adjustable? I assumed not - which means it is an academic argument! yes?!

Ken
13th November 2006, 14:27
This thing

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/12454b7f283c7ff.jpg



Keith leave it like that, it will guarantee you have the road to yourself :lol:

pondweed
13th November 2006, 14:49
The ideal way to get a good fit imho is to buy a bumper from the Breakers then cut the front and bottom off so the crossmember bolt can be reached then you can adjust to your hearts content :)

oh lordy. lifes too short for all this... :eek: I might just put some gaffertape over the gap to stop pheasants getting stuck in the bodywork:D

DeeCee
13th November 2006, 14:52
Some closeups of the MK2 Alloy crossmember and inside of bumper.

You will see in Bump1 the outline of matching holes in the EPP inside of the bumper.
From this I would guess that the EPP is hard against the alloy member.
The EPP has a ledge that looks like it sits on top of the member, in which case as Keith says lifting the Alloy member will lift the bumper.

I have been trying to line my bumper using plastic packing washers with little effect.

Must try lifting the alloy member

Keith
13th November 2006, 15:53
Christopher I am assuming as I didn't check when I did the ZTT fan that the holes are either over sized or oblong to allow for a slight amount of movement after all we are only looking for a few mm.

That should allow the slam panel to be slightly adjusted and aid the bumper alignment etc

Keith
13th November 2006, 15:55
Keith leave it like that, it will guarantee you have the road to yourself :lol:

Looks mean doesn't it :)

One obvious mistake in that picture I left the under tray on which makes refitting the bumper a pig unless you go doh! and take it off!

GreyGhost
13th November 2006, 16:07
If you should make an over or under adjustment to your member. This would require stripping back to it until you get it right. Life is much to short to be stripping the front off severally to make an adjustment which is attainable with the use of a few twopenny washers and a socket set.
If and when I ever have to remove it and I forsee no reason to get my own hands dirty while I can still afford to pay others. It will remain as is.

Please note, every word in this post has been most carefully chosen :)

Zeb
13th November 2006, 20:23
If you should make an over or under adjustment to your member. This would require stripping back to it until you get it right. Life is much to short to be stripping the front off severally to make an adjustment which is attainable with the use of a few twopenny washers and a socket set.
If and when I ever have to remove it and I forsee no reason to get my own hands dirty while I can still afford to pay others. It will remain as is.

Please note, every word in this post has been most carefully chosen :)


Eeeeeeewwwwwww!:oops:

Mike
13th November 2006, 22:52
I used felt washers to lift up the grille and close the gap (Mk 1 75). This worked perfectly for me.

GreyGhost
13th November 2006, 22:58
I was considering getting some nylon washers to replace the galvanised ones I installed. Christopher has made me paranoid about rust now :(

Mike
13th November 2006, 23:07
I was considering getting some nylon washers to replace the galvanised ones I installed. Christopher has made me paranoid about rust now :(

Rust? I thought all of the parts involved in the work I did were plastic :doh: As my teacher always said. 'must pay more attention'. Lucky I used felt then :)

GreyGhost
13th November 2006, 23:38
Check post number three, I will lay odds that both you and I will be checking under the bonnet at the crack of sparrows tomorrow. It's a long time since I did it, getting on for 2 years, I can't remember what it looked like offhand. Oh well another sleeplesss night :rofl:

Alex30013k
14th November 2006, 05:02
This is the best that i could get with my Mk1 bumper.


http://gallery.mg-rover.org/data/510/4843New_Side.jpg
http://gallery.mg-rover.org/data/510/4843New_Front.jpg

But that was with washers under all the screw holes - to pull the bumper up tight at the sides. then i had smaller washers under the grill so it sat up higher.

Keith
14th November 2006, 17:26
Aha thats cheating

I forgot about bringing the grill up seperately as well

All I need to do now is hacksaw the grill off the ZZZZZZZZZZTTTTTTTT and jack it up a bit, drat.........................................

Alex30013k
14th November 2006, 17:29
Lol

Good luck! lol

:eek:

GreyGhost
14th November 2006, 17:37
I didn't realise they are separate on the 75. No wonder it's so good on Alex's car. I am jealous.:rolleyes:
Only of the gap that is all :)