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keir1163
1st September 2010, 12:16
Hiya gurus of MG&Rover...........
i am looking at a zt CDTi tht has an Auto box issue and wondered if anyone could advise me........
apparently it drives and reverses ok but when it changes gear it lurches and makes a noise..............has anyone got any experience of this fault or any ideas?

Starman
1st September 2010, 21:07
Hi there. Well I'd say it would need a specialist to diagnose as many things may have happened to it in the past.
Has it ever towed or had an oil change and if so was it changed correctly and using the correct oil?

I'm no expert but sounds maybe the oil is low or at least needs a change.

Im sure someone more in the know will pop along soon. :}

Regards Steve

keir1163
2nd September 2010, 09:13
Hiya,
yes my thoughts were incorrect or low oil as well...........i suppose worst case is new or refurb box hey

keir1163
3rd September 2010, 06:09
anyone got any other thoughts or ideas?

chrissyboy
4th September 2010, 21:34
lurching forward could be a duff mount but if the car is driving well i would go along with the fluid was changed in a incorrect manner with the wrong grade of fluid .or is low .are the gear changes longer in between .if so then fluid is low ..

keir1163
5th September 2010, 10:25
Cheers for the reply.............i donnt get the car till thursday but the description is what i have put. Apparently it runs fine apart from when it actually changes up you get the lurch and the noise.
Now he has changed one mount but he said the mount wasnt damaged so my money is that he changed the wrong one. And the noise could well be no oil............

worst case i recon is recon box....but i paid £900 for a 69k 53 plate top spec model so even a new box still gives me a cheap reliable car hey

keir1163
5th September 2010, 10:26
and if so what was the costs involved

Dragrad
5th September 2010, 11:17
Had one refurbished with uprated parts - £1800 counting transportation costs :(

Thread moved to correct forum. Re-direct left in old.

Threads merged as they are related.

Bernard LPG
5th September 2010, 11:21
S/H guaranteed to be OK - £150 if I remember correctly. From local breaker, it wasn't for my car though.

Dead cheap S/H round here as there is so little demand for them.

keir1163
5th September 2010, 12:22
Hi Bernard,
any idea what type box is used in these?

Bernard LPG
5th September 2010, 12:29
Hi Bernard,
any idea what type box is used in these?

Apologies, got confused with the threads and saw only what is now post #7 and assumed it was for your 190. :o

I don't know about the diesel box.

Jules
5th September 2010, 13:06
Jatco AutoBox CDT.
A recent rebuild for a customer of mine cost him £1800 inc Transportion costs.
Transmission specialists was based in Liverpool.

keir1163
5th September 2010, 13:42
Scary money indeed....

lets hope its the engine mounts or the oil!

Matt1960
5th September 2010, 14:32
I had a similar problem of lurching changes, up and down, and it turned out to be a solenoid failure. Easy to test and not too difficult to replace.
To test, open the large round connector by the battery box with a twist.
Put a test meter across the pins as per diagram.
Matt

chrissyboy
5th September 2010, 20:53
and if so what was the costs involved

a place near to me in croyden quoted me
£680 exchange box that had been refurbed that includes fitting and vat,but then it wasnt a box i needed it is the drie shaft im getting the noise from

keir1163
6th September 2010, 07:10
gonna soud strange........but what did the sound sound like and when was it happening?

keir1163
6th September 2010, 07:12
I had a similar problem of lurching changes, up and down, and it turned out to be a solenoid failure. Easy to test and not too difficult to replace.
To test, open the large round connector by the battery box with a twist.
Put a test meter across the pins as per diagram.
Matt

donnt suppose you could PM me a better copy of the pic or tell me where is came from?Also what is the big giva away when you go across the pins

Matt1960
6th September 2010, 08:07
Sorry, dont know why it came out so small.
All you have to do is test the resistances between each pins as listed. Most solenoid faults tend to be open circuit and the resistances would read 0. But they should all be between the values listed.
The connector for my car was by the n/s wing next to the battery box.
Hope this is better:
Matt