Jerky Steering-Rover 75 CDT Connossieur '01

[paul706003]

Hi, My Rover has a habit when making minor steering changes of jerking to whichever side as if the wheel has been yanked. This can be quite disconcerting when it happens. Have just had the tracking done and it is just as bad. Tyres ok, no untoward noises. Can anyone help please? Thanks. Paul

[Mike Noc]

Jack each front wheel up and check for play in the lower arm outer balljoint - its the one at the bottom of the strut. Don't be surprised to find one side gone.


Mike

[Martynp]

Power steering resevoir, fluid at correct level?

[paul706003]

Jack each front wheel up and check for play in the lower arm outer balljoint - its the one at the bottom of the strut. Don't be surprised to find one side gone.


Mike Hi Mike, Thanks for the reply. I will check it at the weekend. I was worrying that it may be the rack.

[paul706003]

Power steering resevoir, fluid at correct level? Thanks for replying. The power steering fluid is on the max level and there are no untoward noises. The problem seems to be worse when I am taking a right hander. The steering will lurch to the right then when it centres the wheel is slightly off centre, then it seems to lurch to the left and all is well again.:confused:

[Mike Noc]

Hi Mike, Thanks for the reply. I will check it at the weekend. I was worrying that it may be the rack.

Good luck with it Paul. I haven't heard of many racks failing, though it could have loosened off.

If the lower outer ball joint is OK follow the lower arm back and check the rear rubber bush as these can split and break up.


Mike

[Starman]

Mine tends to wander a bit but it's doesn't sound as bad as yours. Yet!
It's always found Cambers in the road a thing to follow, but since being tracked up and aligned along with all new tyres, she will hold true on a perfectly flat road..... I know few and far between..... But any dip or trend to the left or right makes for a tug to follow that direction.
I end up rocking the steering wheel like in the old 50's/60's films where the actors are in a car against a back projection.
I was told all is ok in regards of the running gear.


I had a Cavalier where the rack was shot and that had a notch dead centre and would flip either left or right as if centre point was at the top of a pyramid!
Sorry strange comparison.

Regards steve

[Martynp]

Thanks for replying. The power steering fluid is on the max level and there are no untoward noises. The problem seems to be worse when I am taking a right hander. The steering will lurch to the right then when it centres the wheel is slightly off centre, then it seems to lurch to the left and all is well again.:confused:

Sorry for the basic question about resevoir level, but now we know that the fault is not due to the power steering pump cavitating ie running with no fluid in the system
Highly unlikely that it is the power steering pump at fault then.

See its an 01 car----high milage?
Think the other posts are guiding you in the right direction, steering fault through wear somewhere as suggested----

Jack up the front & slowly turn front wheels from lock to lock, listen for any noises as you do so or any vibration/ clicks from steering wheel.
The former while someone else is turning the steering wheel allowing you to listen at both sides of front

[paul706003]

Sorry for the basic question about resevoir level, but now we know that the fault is not due to the power steering pump cavitating ie running with no fluid in the system
Highly unlikely that it is the power steering pump at fault then.

See its an 01 car----high milage?
Think the other posts are guiding you in the right direction, steering fault through wear somewhere as suggested----

Jack up the front & slowly turn front wheels from lock to lock, listen for any noises as you do so or any vibration/ clicks from steering wheel.
The former while someone else is turning the steering wheel allowing you to listen at both sides of front

Hi, The milage is 89,500 which the part service history and mot's back up. It appears to have had hub bearings replaced within the last year. I will try to examine car in greater detail at weekend. Thanks very much for your response.

[man of kent]

Have you had the rear tracking done with the front? Front and rear need doing together. Its basically a BMW rear suspension and is adjustable. You get funny steering if the car is crabbing. Get somebody to follow you see if its crabbing. If it is the road camber has a big effect.

If its had crash damage then all the alignments could be out. Done a VOSN/MOT check? You just need the reg no and doc ref no from the logbook and go onto .gov.co.uk/.............

[paul706003]

Have you had the rear tracking done with the front? Front and rear need doing together. Its basically a BMW rear suspension and is adjustable. You get funny steering if the car is crabbing. Get somebody to follow you see if its crabbing. If it is the road camber has a big effect.

If its had crash damage then all the alignments could be out. Done a VOSN/MOT check? You just need the reg no and doc ref no from the logbook and go onto .gov.co.uk/.............
Hi, Car came with a HPI check that the previous owner had done in Sept 2009 which is clean. There are no signs of any damage so I don't think its been in any accidents. I will get someone to follow me and check out the crabbing though. Thanks.

[paul706003]

Mine tends to wander a bit but it's doesn't sound as bad as yours. Yet!
It's always found Cambers in the road a thing to follow, but since being tracked up and aligned along with all new tyres, she will hold true on a perfectly flat road..... I know few and far between..... But any dip or trend to the left or right makes for a tug to follow that direction.
I end up rocking the steering wheel like in the old 50's/60's films where the actors are in a car against a back projection.
I was told all is ok in regards of the running gear.


I had a Cavalier where the rack was shot and that had a notch dead centre and would flip either left or right as if centre point was at the top of a pyramid!
Sorry strange comparison.



Regards steve

Thanks for your reply. I too have had cars that tramline, mainly due to aftermarket wheels & low profiles but this problem feels a lot different to that.:(

[paul706003]

I have discovered that the lower wishbone rear bush is completely shot on the osf and that the balljoint on the nsf is loose in the swivel hub. The pinch bolt is fully tightened but is not gripping the balljoint. There is no gap in the clamp yet the balljoint is still loose. Could the movement have worn the hole in the hub into an egg shape??? I presume the balljoint is hardened steel and the hub cast iron.:confused:

[tsautos]

You may have to change the hub carrier too as these wear if the lower ball joint retention bolt/nut has not been tightened enough

[paul706003]

You may have to change the hub carrier too as these wear if the lower ball joint retention bolt/nut has not been tightened enough
I thought as much. Have ordered one on ebay today and will fit next weekend. Thanks for reply :)

[Mike Noc]

I have discovered that the lower wishbone rear bush is completely shot on the osf and that the balljoint on the nsf is loose in the swivel hub. The pinch bolt is fully tightened but is not gripping the balljoint. There is no gap in the clamp yet the balljoint is still loose. Could the movement have worn the hole in the hub into an egg shape??? I presume the balljoint is hardened steel and the hub cast iron.:confused:

The pinch bolt can be a problem if the clamp was forced too far apart when the lower arm was last changed. The torque figure for the bolt is not enough to clamp the ball joint tightly.

Had this once when I changed an arm. Increased the torque by 10% (from memory is it listed at 45NM?) and all was well. Might be an idea to back it off and retorque it.

Unfortunately if you have been driving for some time with it in this condition it may well have worn the clamp and you will have to replace the hub carrier. If you change the hub carrier you may as well order a wheel bearing as it can be a pig to get out of the old one.

Mike

[paul706003]

The pinch bolt can be a problem if the clamp was forced too far apart when the lower arm was last changed. The torque figure for the bolt is not enough to clamp the ball joint tightly.

Had this once when I changed an arm. Increased the torque by 10% (from memory is it listed at 45NM? Best check) and all was well. Might be an idea to back it off and retorque it.

Unfortunately if you have been driving for some time with it in this condition it may well have worn the clamp and you will have to replace the hub carrier. If you change the hub carrier you may as well order a wheel bearing as it can be a pig to get out of the old one.

Mike

I'm getting a secondhand hub with everything including the bearing attached so will not need to remove old one. Seller says its all in good condition. I just hope he's right.