PCV change- chickened out!

[75tourer]

OK- eventually getting through my list of jobs to do- to date- plenum spyhole, Jules plenum guard, front pads, new auto gearbox oil, bonnet cable block mod. So for today- EGR firstly(went through 4 pairs of rubber gloves and two rolls of kitchen roll), then onto air filter- could not get three bolts off front panel that secure air intake(next to bonnet lock) just kept spinning- anyone any idea how to get them off? But managed to pull air intake tube off at air filter housing so got the filter renewed.

PCV- having read the horror stories of leak back connectors snapping and fast running out of time decided to leave this job for next weekend- got the BMW filterless one ready. Considering getting the leakback full 4 connections and pipework kit from BMW for next weekend in case I snap any of the connectors-if I dont will take it back for a refund. Many thanks to the forum for advice on all of the above...

[wuzerk]

The problem with the three screws holding the air intake is a common one.
You can get your finger underneath the intake and press upwards hard as you try to loosen the left and right hand bolts but you cannot do that to the centre one. You can soak the screws in releasing fluid but, if all else fails you need to clamp the heads with mole grips and drill the heads off.
It is worth noting that the standard plastic number plate fixing screws are a perfect fit and they will not seize up.

[suffolk boy]

i have taken my pipes of twice you would in my opinion have to be pretty ham fisted to snap them. they just pull up by hand .also note you do not need to remove the securing clips just push them in.

[Matt1960]

OK- eventually getting through my list of jobs to do- to date- plenum spyhole, Jules plenum guard, front pads, new auto gearbox oil, bonnet cable block mod. So for today- EGR firstly(went through 4 pairs of rubber gloves and two rolls of kitchen roll), then onto air filter- could not get three bolts off front panel that secure air intake(next to bonnet lock) just kept spinning- anyone any idea how to get them off? But managed to pull air intake tube off at air filter housing so got the filter renewed.

PCV- having read the horror stories of leak back connectors snapping and fast running out of time decided to leave this job for next weekend- got the BMW filterless one ready. Considering getting the leakback full 4 connections and pipework kit from BMW for next weekend in case I snap any of the connectors-if I dont will take it back for a refund. Many thanks to the forum for advice on all of the above...

I think if you are just reasonably careful with the leakback pipes you will be absolutely fine.
You just need to unclip the two centre ones. I prefer taking the stainless clips off altogether but being careful not to drop one, then a very fine screwdriver to lever up the 2 plastic t leakback connectors against the top of the injector and the pipe will hook out of the way.
I think most have had a problem by not disconnecting the leakback pipes at all. It can be done this way , but the risk is far greater of breaking something.
The t pieces can be bought as seperate items but not from an injection specialist. See here as an example http://www.uniteddiesel.co.uk/diesel_engine_products/12/

Matt

[biggles2000]

I have changed two 75's and one ZT. Pretty straightforward, the following may help..

Don't rush. This isn't a 1 min job. It doesn't take much time, but rush and you will break or forget something. Here is how I do it...

Noise cover off
Remove two cross head air intake screws and push intake pipe to the right. No need to remove it completely.
Air filter cover off. Put oil cap back on to stop debris getting in.
Disconnect four electrical plugs beneath PCV, unscrew wire harness and push to one side.
Using long nose pliers pull off all the stainless steel clips.
Using same pliers lever off connecters carefully, take time with the end one. Lift pipe out the way.
Remove old PCV - save screws and retaining bushes. Same as air filter cover screws. Handy if any get lost in the future.
Fit new seals and new PCV.
Fit everything back in the reverse order you took them off.

Job done.

[75tourer]

Thanks for the tips guys- bit more confident now! I will post back at the weekend if I encounter any 'issues'

[fse73549]

When I did mine didn't remove any wires or pipes just removed the harness support to the injectors unscrewed the PCV fixing screws and sort of wiggled it off and the same to put it back together. Piece of cake don't think it took more that about 15 mins start to finish.

[Departed 32016]

Thanks for the tips guys- bit more confident now! I will post back at the weekend if I encounter any 'issues'

if you need a hand- pop down to edinburgh one night and i will help.

[HarryM1BYT]

OK- eventually getting through my list of jobs to do- to date- plenum spyhole, Jules plenum guard, front pads, new auto gearbox oil, bonnet cable block mod. So for today- EGR firstly(went through 4 pairs of rubber gloves and two rolls of kitchen roll), then onto air filter- could not get three bolts off front panel that secure air intake(next to bonnet lock) just kept spinning- anyone any idea how to get them off? But managed to pull air intake tube off at air filter housing so got the filter renewed.

PCV- having read the horror stories of leak back connectors snapping and fast running out of time decided to leave this job for next weekend- got the BMW filterless one ready. Considering getting the leakback full 4 connections and pipework kit from BMW for next weekend in case I snap any of the connectors-if I dont will take it back for a refund. Many thanks to the forum for advice on all of the above...

I did mine in an easy hour or so, but I can't quite remember the details other than it was quite an easy task. I did have one of the bolts turning in the brass fural things, but managed to apply enough sideways thrust on the bolt to make it grip enough to unscrew - a matter of jamming it. Once the cover was off, I Araldited the furrel in place. I also made some tight washers from plastic milk carton material, to push on the threaded ends of the bolts as they protruded through the cover - so the bolts would be retained in the cover, rather than get lost.

[Mintee]

The screws holding the fuel rail on mine was E4 (external) torx.

I bought a socket (like this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Proxxon-1-4-Drive-External-TORX-Socket-E4-477760-/310260623041?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item483cf966c1) - but cheaper from a local tool shop) to do it.

[HarryM1BYT]

You can get away with using a normal metric hex socket to undo them, they are not at all tight. I managed by just easing the pipes and cables to one side, without needing to actually remove the pipework.

[Mintee]

You can get away with using a normal metric hex socket to undo them, they are not at all tight.
What size 'normal metric hex socket' would you use? I did not have one small enough and mine were pretty tight.

[75tourer]

Its a 5mm socket to remove the three fixings for the injector plastic wiring support frame. Fits perfectly.

[Mintee]

Its a 5mm socket to remove the three fixings for the injector plastic wiring support frame. Fits perfectly.
I might have different fasteners to yours then (75 2001).

[HarryM1BYT]

Its a 5mm socket to remove the three fixings for the injector plastic wiring support frame. Fits perfectly.

I can't remember, but I would not argue with the 5mm. It was a perfect fit.

[75tourer]

Another job ticked off the list- PCV changed yesterday for BMW filterless one. Took an hour and that was taking my time. Removed three of the leakback connectors by sliding a very very thin screwdriver between the join of the plastic connector and the metal of the injector, came off easy. Also unclipped the injector loom at the bulkhead so there plenty of slack to move the wiring out of the way. Also managed to wash the car as the sun appeared!

[craig8661]

hi what price is average for this part from bmw as will prob need to do mine now

[sikelsh]

Another job ticked off the list- PCV changed yesterday for BMW filterless one. Took an hour and that was taking my time. Removed three of the leakback connectors by sliding a very very thin screwdriver between the join of the plastic connector and the metal of the injector, came off easy. Also unclipped the injector loom at the bulkhead so there plenty of slack to move the wiring out of the way. Also managed to wash the car as the sun appeared!

Hi I have to fit a new leakback pipe, and thought may aswell get this PCV thing done aswell. You wouldnt happen to have a part number would you?

Its looks fairly straight forward gulp (http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=337563&highlight=pcv) most techy thing I have attempted


EDIT > Just seen the part numbers on the link, eyes are sown on! its B11.12.7.799.224 apparently
Thank
Simon

[HarryM1BYT]

I was able to just remove and clean the original filter. It was fairly clean when it came out, so there did not seem much point in replacing the filter or fitting a new PCV.

If you have the tools, the job is a fairly straight forward task, nothing to be afraid of even if you have never done anything like this. One of those jobs which is so easy, you tend to check out the other things to make it worth while getting your hands dirty.

[Matt1960]

Hi I have to fit a new leakback pipe, and thought may aswell get this PCV thing done aswell. You wouldnt happen to have a part number would you?

Its looks fairly straight forward gulp (http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=337563&highlight=pcv) most techy thing I have attempted


EDIT > Just seen the part numbers on the link, eyes are sown on! its B11.12.7.799.224 apparently
Thank
Simon

And you dont need to replace the whole housing. Just the insert is about half the price and fits into the existing housing.
Part no B11.12.7.799.367 at around £20.

[sikelsh]

http://www.uniteddiesel.co.uk/diesel_engine_products/12/

Matt
Wish I has seen this link before, just paid £30 for a second hand complete pipe and connectors :(

And you dont need to replace the whole housing. Just the insert is about half the price and fits into the existing housing.
Part no B11.12.7.799.367 at around £20.

Is this part also from a BMW dealer? as its different to the part quote on the Org site for the filter only.

[tvpcop]

The number ending 224 is the whole housing, the p/n ending 367 is just the insert.

Regards
Graham

[sikelsh]

The bloke on the org says:

Lift out the assembly! You can either:

Replace the blue filter unit - BMW part number B11.12.7.793.164
Replace the whole assembly - BMW part number B11.12.7.799.224

The whole assembly is an updated version and doesnt contain the blue filter unit but rather a filterless design so may be worth as an upgrade long term.

[Matt1960]

The bloke on the org says:

The part number finishing 367 is the new filterless (swirlpot) insert.
The 224 is the insert and the housing.

And 164 is the existing filter replacement.

They are all BMW numbers and are readily available through BMW.

To fit the new insert B11.12.7.799.367 into the existing housing just requires the old filter and the slide clip to come out. The new part comes with all new gaskets too.

Matt

[sikelsh]

Excellent, thanks for explaining.

Simon