Is this FFS?

[Macdevil]

Hello all!
I have owned a 75 1.8 Club for 2 years with varying degrees of satisfaction but I am determined to not give up on it! Just over a year ago I had the dreaded HGF (repair £575 in VAT) and thereafter enjoyed trouble free motoring until recently.
It began with an intermittant engine management light illumination with no discernible effects of the running of the car. If I pulled over, turned off the engine and waited a few minutes, it would go off and all would be well.
Then, over the past week the light would come on, sometimes flashing and sometimes solid. The engine sounded "rough" and seemed to lack power, especially under acceleration. These symptoms varied in severity, sometimes it was bad, sometimes hardly noticeable. Over the last couple of days all of the above definitely got worse and as I was driving home today I had an awful sinking feeling that it was going to conk out completely with a horrendous garage bill to boot.
However, it did get me back to town (car park at my work) where I left it for approx 20 minutes. When I got back in and began to drive off, the engine died and refused to start (turned over but no spark).
This is the first time since this began that I have tried to start the engine whilst still hot - all the other times the car has been left long enough for it to cool down completely.
I have read lots of posts in the forum and to me (a complete non-mechanic) it kinda sounds like FFS, but I'm not sure. I have ordered the FOC just in case (and from what I have read, that sounds like a good idea anyway)
Any thoughts anyone?
Thanks

[Macdevil]

Anyone? Any advise/opinions would be very much appreciated, thanks

[radi8or]

Hi David,

Welcome to the club.

If car won't start when hot could also be a cam sensor problem, I am no expert at diagnostics but have read that this could also be the cause.

Will also give your post a bump and prompt some experts.:D

[Macdevil]

Thanks for the welcome, and reply Bob :)
I had also read the possibility that it could be a cam senser problem...its hard to tell tho as yesterday was the first time I had tried to start it when engine was still warm so I cant really compare. Although I did wait until the engine was virtually cooled down but still without success

[COLVERT]

Really does sound like the FOC.

[T-Cut]

Fitting the FOC will eliminate the most common cause of non-starting petrol engines. Well worth doing, even if it turns out to be a different issue.

If the cold engine will start, it could be the cam sensor as noted. Get the engine hot, turn it off and see if it starts. If not, quickly remove sensor and chill it in freezer for 10 minutes. Quickly refit and see if it starts. If so, get a new sensor or try French Mike's mod using an O-ring to lift the position of the sensor head slightly.

TC

[radi8or]

French Mikes cam sensor fix (compliments to Mike)

Click here (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=65916)

[Mike Noc]

Doesn't sound like it is just a cam sensor as once started the engine would run fine and your doesn't.

As I understood it French Mike's post was relating to the diesel engine, is the cam sensor failure a common problem on the 1.8?

I don't know the petrol engines but it sounds like either fuel or spark related. When you say running rough is it missing? Could it be trouble with the coil packs?

Mike

[Macdevil]

Thanks for all the advice so far...
Mike..yes, as I have said, this is the first time that since I had this trouble that I have tried starting the engine since it was hot, and it did actually start but ran for about 20 yards then conked out and wouldnt start again. Previously, since the trouble began, it has not been running smoothly at all, with the "roughness" being more and more prevalent. I dont think its missing...just a lack of power (but no total loss) especially on acceleration.
From what I gather...if I try to start it with a cold engine but it doesnt then its PROBABLY the FFS - I assume its just got more and more worse until the point that its refusing to start, and if the engine does start when cold then its PROBABLY the cam senser, or at least thats where to start looking...am I right in these assumptions?
I know Im sounding like a really useless non mechanic but thats basically what i am :D Also I really really dont want to take it to the garage as I cannot afford them to hum and haw and build up a big bill which I just cant afford :(

[T-Cut]

FFS is progressive. Sometimes very rapidly so. When you fit the FOC, don't be tempted to open up the filter module. Just lift it out of the tank and retighten the cap as far as it will go. Fit the FOC and replace everything. Curiousity about the innards, or a completely slack cap can damage the sealing ring, which then has to be replaced.

TC

[Mike Noc]

I don't know the K series that well, and am sure an expert will be along shortly. However as I said I don't think it is the cam sensor.

There can be a bit of confusion about which sensor does what: All the cam sensor does is let the ECU know where the cam is as number 1 piston rises. Reason for this is the cam is going at half the crank speed on a four stroke engine so as the piston comes up the ECU doesn't know whether it is the compression or exhaust stroke. Once it has detected where the cam is it doesn't need it to run the engine as the ECU uses the crank sensor to calculate timing for the injection and spark plugs.

So if your engine is running rough then it isn't just the cam sensor. I mention 'just' because you may have a problem with the cam sensor as well as your other problems but I doubt it. Sounds more fuel related although when you said it turned over but no spark did you actually check if the plugs were sparking or did it just not start?

Mike

[Macdevil]

Thank you guys for further advice :)

TC - believe me I have absolutely NO curiosity about the innards of the filter! I just want it checked to see if it is slack, and tightened up if necessary and the FOC fitted!

Mike - you were veering towards the technical for such a dunderhead as myself and I had to read your last post a couple of times, but yes, I understand now what youre saying! I was not in a position to check the spark plugs, what I meant was the engine, although turning over would not start.

My own personal feelings going by the symptoms and what I have read in other posts is its more likely to be FFS. It will become more clear I guess when I get the chance to try to start the car again later on this evening.

Assuming the car does not start (and therefore more likely to be FFS), is that the best thing to look into first of all?
Plus, I guess there's no point starting that until the FOC I have ordered arrives (hopefully within a day or 2)

Thanks again....any further advice is welcome, along with any offers to help from anyone in my area (Fife)

[Macdevil]

OK...an update and an answer to myself from the title of the original thread...Is This FFS?
Answer - no :(

Orange clip duly arrived and I with bated breath dug my way down to the fuel filter much as an archeologist digs in anticipation of finding another Tutankhamun.
Imagine my disappointment when I got there to find the filter was not in the slightest loose and both parts were well fitted in place. So, orange clip was fitted anyway.
Car still wouldnt start even with a jump.
So this morning roadside assistance were called (luckily i have it with my car insurance) and he couldnt start it with the booster pack.
He checked here and there and lo! found the engine management fuse had blown! He quickly took out the 15A fuse that was there (from front fog lights), tried putting it into the enginge management fuse slot - and started first time!
However, it quickly became apparent there was a misfire.
So, car was driven to nearby mechanic who has replaced an HT lead which has by all accounts cured the misfire but on testing the car, again the engine management fuse has blown.
Now he says it should go to the auto electrician to test and see what the problem is :(
Anyone have any ideas before I go down that road?
Again, any and all help and advice much appreciated,

[MangoMan]

I would take it to a Rover experienced workshop and get them to check it with T4 analyser, (I think that is what it is called) because obviously there is a fault somewhere in the Engine Management.

[Macdevil]

Any other suggestions anyone?
I really dont want to go down the auto electrician road if possible as I only have a very limited budget and would hate it if it turned out to be something simple....