Towbar wiring

[Graham E]

Just won this and on loking at the picture the looks like a grey connector fitted to the wiring.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180667444014&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Could this just plug into my car and work?

Towbar not arrived yet so no other info available yet.

[suffolk boy]

hi i am not a expert on these .but i have removed towbar wiring on a kit fitted to my ztt the wiring on that was spliced into the rear lights on both sides plus it was fitted with a relay which i cannot see in the add .as for the plug bit unless your car is fitted with mgr wiring kit there is not anythink to plug it into and even that uses scotch loc connectors as well as plugs.plus a link lead to connect it up to the fuse board.if you need a relay i still have the one i removed from my ztt you are welcome to

[HarryM1BYT]

Just won this and on loking at the picture the looks like a grey connector fitted to the wiring.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180667444014&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Could this just plug into my car and work?

Towbar not arrived yet so no other info available yet.

No, it is defiantely not a plug and play job. It will likely need either a relay unit to bypass the can-bus, or much better the proper can-bus system interface. You will then have various cables to get through from the back to the front. It will be slightly easier if you don't need the S socket working, but not that much.

The good news is that the mechanical bit, actually fitting the tow bar, is really easy:D

[suffolk boy]

getting the bumper off is easy unless like mine all the bolts at the top where rusted solid i had to cut the heads of with a hacksaw then resort to heating up the remains with a blow torch x 3 hours later:mad:

[Miff]

I recently had my tow bar wiring fitted, I supplied the kit, which I bought from Towsure and it still cost £80.

[Graham E]

Just had the towbar delivered and it looks like it is a genuine Rover one.
Rover / MG sticker on the bar and both electric sockets have the rover badge grained into them.

There are two connector blocks, 1 black with 3 thickish wires going to it and a grey one taking all the other. There is also a thick white wire with a ring connector on the end as if this could be the earth wire.

What side of the car would I find the wiring?

[suffolk boy]

hi as stated in mine and harrys replys there is no where to plug into.if it is the mgr kit and it sounds like it you need the rest of it which the bit you have plugs into .this links the towbar wiring to the fuse board.you also need a link lead kit which plugs into the fuse board.these are available from rimmers.but the wiring kit is over a hundred pounds i am sure there is cheaper options

[trikey]

hi as stated in mine and harrys replys there is no where to plug into.if it is the mgr kit and it sounds like it you need the rest of it which the bit you have plugs into .this links the towbar wiring to the fuse board.you also need a link lead kit which plugs into the fuse board.these are available from rimmers.but the wiring kit is over a hundred pounds i am sure there is cheaper options


I just took the existing live feed from the fusebox to the back, then picked up all the required wires from behind the boot carpet sides, wired thru the canbus relay and hey presto!

I have to wire one in next week for a mate, I can do pics if anyone wants them!

[Jakg]

Out of interest, what sort of wiring do you need to do?

I assume you'd need to tap into the rear light wiring to get the indicators / brake lights / sidelights, and a power and earth, but I can't see it being that expensive.

You can get an amplifier wiring kit (i.e. enough of a large power cable to go from the battery to the boot) and lots of smaller wire for £20...

[Graham E]

I just took the existing live feed from the fusebox to the back, then picked up all the required wires from behind the boot carpet sides, wired thru the canbus relay and hey presto!

I have to wire one in next week for a mate, I can do pics if anyone wants them!

That would be good.
Where is the existing live feed?

Is this the type of relay I need?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12N-7-Way-Smart-Towing-Relay-Canbus-Vehicles-RCT480-/230542733290?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35ad6aefea

It's 12N which is just indicators, brakes, lights.
The towbar has twin electrics which I don't really need as only towing a trailer but if it's easy enough to wire the rest in I will do that at the same time, would I need one of these as well?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RING-TOWING-RCT460-SMARTCOM-CARAVAN-RELAY-12S-SYSTEMS-/180591313146?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0c14c0fa

[sikelsh]

When Harry & Son did mine, I bought this

http://www.towsure.com/product/Smart_7_Way_CanBus_Relay

Used this Image

http://www.pfjonesebay.co.uk/images/Bypass.jpg

And then used this info that is specific to the car

Left indicator = Green + Pink

Right indicator = Green + Grey

Brake light = Green + Blue

Left sidelight = Red + Grey

Right sidelight = Red + Blue

Fog light = Blue + Yellow

Reverse light = Brown + Green

Ran a feed from the fusebox and installed a 25 Amp fuse at the relay box.

The right indicator and sidelight were run across the boot as well.

Worked a dream ever since :)

The above will give you Single Electrics, and its not plug and play.

Simon

[Graham E]

Thanks that's very helpful.

[HarryM1BYT]

When Harry & Son did mine, I bought this

http://www.towsure.com/product/Smart_7_Way_CanBus_Relay

Used this Image

http://www.pfjonesebay.co.uk/images/Bypass.jpg

And then used this info that is specific to the car
Left indicator = Green + Pink

Right indicator = Green + Grey

Brake light = Green + Blue

Left sidelight = Red + Grey

Right sidelight = Red + Blue

Fog light = Blue + Yellow

Reverse light = Brown + Green

Ran a feed from the fusebox and installed a 25 Amp fuse at the relay box.

The right indicator and sidelight were run across the boot as well.
Worked a dream ever since :)

The above will give you Single Electrics, and its not plug and play.

Simon

As I recall he ran two large feeds (4 or 6mm) from the front to the rear, to avoid volts drop. One for the above relay and the second for the supplementary socket. I have towed for many years and find most installers fit too small a feed to the supplementary socket, which then suffers volts drop to the fridge and battery charge circuit and sometimes also causes the voltage sensing relays to oscillate.

If you want to actually wire up the supplementary socket, you will also need the voltage sensing relay. That simply switches the power on to the fridge and battery charge, as the voltage across the main battery rises, as the engine is started and turns it off when you stop the engine.

Either fog lights or reversing lights (not sure which) also work via the supplementary socket.

He also recommends that all connections and joint are properly spliced with solder plus heatshrink for reliability, rather than using those quick blue cable splicers.

[Graham E]

Thanks.
I don't need to really wire the S socket in as I am only towing a trailer but as all the insides of the boot need to come out I may as well wire it all in so if I ever do need it thene it's there.

Thanks guys

[Jakg]

He also recommends that all connections and joint are properly spliced with solder plus heatshrink for reliability, rather than using those quick blue cable splicers."Blue cable splicers" = Scotchloks and are a joke. My car came with a towbar "professionally" wired in with these, and of course after a while all the connections broke.

Replaced with a decent crimp connection and all is good... solder is better but a crimp is just as good and a lot easier.

WRT to power cables - you'll need about 6m of power cable to go from the battery to the boot (or at least 5m gets you to the rear seats). You could probably use 5m if you started at the passenger-side fusebox, though.

I would use some larger wire (like this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/8-AWG-Gauge-Amplifier-Wiring-Kit-Power-Sub-Speaker-Car-/180655577787?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_C abling_ET&hash=item2a0fe95abb#ht_2205wt_989)) just so if you ever need a little more power it's already there - my towbar is wired up with really really small cables and while thats fine for lights, it's not up to any sort of real load.If you want to actually wire up the supplementary socket, you will also need the voltage sensing relay
You can also just use a normal relay wired up to something thats live only with the engine (not the ignition). Its something I have to do for my split-charge system.

[Graham E]

So what is best....?

Take power straight from battery or from the fuse box?

If from the battery how hard is it to feed the wires through the bulkhead?

If the fuse box, what fuse do I use?

Would 30amp cable be good enough?

[HarryM1BYT]

You can take it from the battery, the main fuse box, or there is a feed already behind the glove box for the purpose - yellow/red (I think). Where ever you take it from, fit a 25 or 30amp for the supplementary supply and a 10amp for the road lights and as close to where ever you source the supply from as possible. Some suggest a 20amp fuse is adequate for the supplementary supply - with a thin cable and volts drop it might be, but a thicker cable with a fridge and a low battery at the end of it, it would likely blow in time. The 25amp will cope.

The problem isn't so much current capacity as voltage loss or drop along the cables. At 12v you cannot afford to drop much voltage.

[Graham E]

If there is a wire already in place is this connected to the fuse box? If so which fuse?

Is it good enough to take the feed to the lights via one wire and the charging via another?

[Jakg]

So what is best....?

Take power straight from battery or from the fuse box?

If from the battery how hard is it to feed the wires through the bulkhead?

If the fuse box, what fuse do I use?

Would 30amp cable be good enough?
Battery is the best way however for a "low" current draw like yours i'd say that from the fusebox would be fine.

Theres a grommet next to the bonnet release you can use if you decide to go through the bulkhead.
Is it good enough to take the feed to the lights via one wire and the charging via another?Personally i'd run one cable for both - easier to run one cable, easier to spread the load etc.

[RPWC]

I wired my towing sockets direct to the harness in the boot,ie scotchlocked onto the corresponding wire for the lights ,and the auxiliary socket the same way live to live earth to the body etc including the s/c relay,been like that for two years ,no probs

[HarryM1BYT]

I wired my towing sockets direct to the harness in the boot,ie scotchlocked onto the corresponding wire for the lights ,and the auxiliary socket the same way live to live earth to the body etc including the s/c relay,been like that for two years ,no probs

I can't understand where you might have picked up a suitabably rated supply for the supplementary (auxiliary ?) socket. It needs a 20 to 30 amp supply with minimal voltage drop or loss along its length.

[Jakg]

I can't understand where you might have picked up a suitabably rated supply for the supplementary (auxiliary ?) socket. It needs a 20 to 30 amp supply with minimal voltage drop or loss along its length.
My towbar (for reasons I'm not quite sure) was fitted with a 15A fuse on the cable.

[nisfo]

I fitted a Volton Combi box when I installed a bar on my last 75. It did require a direct (30a fuse IIRC) live feed from the battery. I also fitted a switched 12v socket in the boot from that feed for using a fridge when not towing.

[RPWC]

I can't understand where you might have picked up a suitabably rated supply for the supplementary (auxiliary ?) socket. It needs a 20 to 30 amp supply with minimal voltage drop or loss along its length. Harry,I wired it direct to the fusebox,with an line fuse,this is how it was wired in my previous car( not a Rover)

[HarryM1BYT]

Harry,I wired it direct to the fusebox,with an line fuse,this is how it was wired in my previous car( not a Rover)

Oh, OK - It read as if you had found all you needed in the boot.