Tow bar fitting

[uk_dave&gill]

Well, we've almost decided on a van, so all we have to do now (apart from pay for it!) is to get a tow bar fitted

Any advice on this? Sort of place to go, what's needed, pitfalls to look out for etc?

It's a fairly new van (2010) and has a 13 pin plug, so I assume we can get a 13 pin socket fitted to the car, and won't need an adaptor

Wonder how much it's going to cost?!

[HarryM1BYT]

Towsure will likely have all you need, including choice of electrics.

The fitting of the bar is as simple as can be, the easiest one I have ever installed, bumber off, just bolt on basically.

The electrics are where most get stuck. The choice is between a fully compatable system which works a treat - turns off the reversing sensors and checks your trailer lights are all working as they should, or a more basic kit (and much cheaper) which just makes the lights work using relays to bypass the Rover's sensors.

Which ever of the systems you decide to fit, run a good size of cable as the main supply from front of car to the rear, to avoid volts drop issues. It has to run your fridge and charge your caravans battery, volts lost = not much to charge its battery. I also suggest properly soldered connections throughout, for reliabilty and less volts lost, rather than the 3M blue splices.

[uk_dave&gill]

Thanks Harry, some useful info there

TBH though, I don't fancy fitting myself, too much to go wrong I think!

What sort of prices have any of you had to pay for purchase/installation? Also, what's the general consensus on detachable as opposed to fixed?

Cheers

[HarryM1BYT]

Thanks Harry, some useful info there

TBH though, I don't fancy fitting myself, too much to go wrong I think!

What sort of prices have any of you had to pay for purchase/installation? Also, what's the general consensus on detachable as opposed to fixed?

Cheers

Fixed is cheaper, looks ugly when not being used, but has the advantage that those parking up against your rear bumper will generally take a bit more care :D

[RPWC]

£160 from towsure ,easy job, 101 from Towequipe,they also sell the bypass wiring kit ,specific to the car,the only cutting you need is a 60x 100mm slot in the bumper,be aware though,if you have evrsing sensors ,that the fixed towbar may interfere with their performance.
ie,they may sound constantly as the ball acts as an object.

[uk_dave&gill]

Had a quote for:-

Detachable Towbar with 13Pin Electrics - £408.00 Including VAT Fitted (Witter Towbar)
Fixed Towbar with 13Pin Electrics – £318.00 Including VAT Fitted (PCT Towbar)
Sound reasonable?

[HarryM1BYT]

Had a quote for:-


Detachable Towbar with 13Pin Electrics - £408.00 Including VAT Fitted (Witter Towbar)
Fixed Towbar with 13Pin Electrics – £318.00 Including VAT Fitted (PCT Towbar)
Sound reasonable?

Sounds reasonable, but you need to be sure of the spec for the electrics. As already said, you can get a cheap bypass type install, or the proper can-bus type intended for the 75. Does the spec include the 13 pins fully wired and working, or just the bare road lighting wiring?

The proper can-bus system will stop the beeping when you put it into reverse with trailer attached and take account of the extra at the back when the towball is in place when reversing solo.

[RPWC]

Had a quote for:-


Detachable Towbar with 13Pin Electrics - £408.00 Including VAT Fitted (Witter Towbar)
Fixed Towbar with 13Pin Electrics – £318.00 Including VAT Fitted (PCT Towbar)
Sound reasonable?
A bit steep I think, you can buy the towbar,(fixed) for £160,and fit it yourself,its not hard, I did mine.IMO the fixed flange is best,as it gives more protection to the rear end,eg if you get too close to a wall ,or someone shunts you from behind.

[Canon]

A bit steep I think, you can buy the towbar,(fixed) for £160,and fit it yourself,its not hard, I did mine.IMO the fixed flange is best,as it gives more protection to the rear end,eg if you get too close to a wall ,or someone shunts you from behind.

When a towbar is fitted, the aluminium crash bar thats fitted behind your bumper is removed, so leaving the tow ball on will give you a bit more protection

btw i got a second hand but never used full tow bar kit off ebay for £40 ;)

[HarryM1BYT]

A bit steep I think, you can buy the towbar,(fixed) for £160,and fit it yourself,its not hard, I did mine.IMO the fixed flange is best,as it gives more protection to the rear end,eg if you get too close to a wall ,or someone shunts you from behind.

I bought new Towsure towbar + the full Canbus twin sockets, which cost me £350 - on top of that, I had to install it all. Tow bar was an absolute doddle, the wiring more involved and took up much of the rest of the day.

[uk_dave&gill]

Sounds reasonable, but you need to be sure of the spec for the electrics. As already said, you can get a cheap bypass type install, or the proper can-bus type intended for the 75. Does the spec include the 13 pins fully wired and working, or just the bare road lighting wiring?

The proper can-bus system will stop the beeping when you put it into reverse with trailer attached and take account of the extra at the back when the towball is in place when reversing solo.

As far as I know the wiring is full set up

As regards beeping in reverse, I assume this would only apply if I had reversing sensors, which my car hasn't got!

[uk_dave&gill]

A bit steep I think, you can buy the towbar,(fixed) for £160,and fit it yourself,its not hard, I did mine.IMO the fixed flange is best,as it gives more protection to the rear end,eg if you get too close to a wall ,or someone shunts you from behind.

Don't think I'll be fitting it myself, but maybe I do need to seek out a few more quotes!

[uk_dave&gill]

When a towbar is fitted, the aluminium crash bar thats fitted behind your bumper is removed, so leaving the tow ball on will give you a bit more protection

That's a useful bit of knowledge to have, ta muchly!

[RPWC]

As far as I know the wiring is full set up

As regards beeping in reverse, I assume this would only apply if I had reversing sensors, which my car hasn't got!
I have after market reverse sensors on my car,they just stick on the bumper or lights,which is the case on mine.It only beeps when reversing off my drive,even when nothing behind,that is not to say that the sensors don't work btw,they do activate when objects are nearby.

[RPWC]

Don't think I'll be fitting it myself, but maybe I do need to seek out a few more quotes!
Dave,its easy,remove bumper cover,remove crash bar,slide bracket into chassis rails,fit bolts,then fit the bolts from crashbar,back into the matching holes on towbar bracket.As for wiring,I have written down somewhere ,the car wiring colours for each light,will dig it out and pm you it.The wiring is just a case of paring the outer sheath,and soldering the tow socket wire to it.

[HarryM1BYT]

As far as I know the wiring is full set up

As regards beeping in reverse, I assume this would only apply if I had reversing sensors, which my car hasn't got!

No the wiring is not there, it needs to be installed. Nor is it a plug and play job. Cable(s) will also need to be run from the front of car.

The proper Can-bus unit will prevent the OEM Rover reversing sensor beeping when reversing when a trailer is attached. The proper Can-bus unit also has the advantage that it tests your trailer lights are working properly and flag up a fault on the dash if there is a fault.

[uk_dave&gill]

TBH, I could probably consider the actual hardware fitting, but I don't think I'd like to risk my feeble skills on the electrics, so a professional job it will need to be!

[jennysteve]

I got the detachable towbar with the 13 pin plug, 408 quid, but it's great and what i wanted as my next van will come with 13 pin electrics. Steve.

[trikey]

Dave,its easy,remove bumper cover,remove crash bar,slide bracket into chassis rails,fit bolts,then fit the bolts from crashbar,back into the matching holes on towbar bracket.As for wiring,I have written down somewhere ,the car wiring colours for each light,will dig it out and pm you it.The wiring is just a case of paring the outer sheath,and soldering the tow socket wire to it.


As long as you go through a canbus relay it is!

[uk_dave&gill]

I got the detachable towbar with the 13 pin plug, 408 quid, but it's great and what i wanted as my next van will come with 13 pin electrics. Steve.

Exactly what I was quoted! Interesting.....

[RPWC]

As long as you go through a canbus relay it is!
I didn't,just have the split charge relay, and soldered the lighting and aux socket wires to the harness

[trebor]

friend of mine just bought one of these which is free delivery, easy to fit and no bumper cutting, you would still need thye electrics doing but maybe a member could help you out there

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLANGE-TOWBAR-Rover-75-SALOON-1999-2005-Free-P-P-/250454496682?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Touring_Travel&hash=item3a504055aa

[Roverowner]

It would be great with a proper -how to- about this.........:o

[uk_dave&gill]

friend of mine just bought one of these which is free delivery, easy to fit and no bumper cutting, you would still need thye electrics doing but maybe a member could help you out there

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLANGE-TOWBAR-Rover-75-SALOON-1999-2005-Free-P-P-/250454496682?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Touring_Travel&hash=item3a504055aa

That looks to be a good price and no bumper cutting is good! (Question: Do most 'bars necessitate bumper cutting then?)

Deffo still not keen on wiring though. If it was plug and play, no worries, but cutting, splicing, soldering.......

[trebor]

i am no expert on towbars and when my friend bought this one i expected to have to cut a small section out of the bumper as on some i undersand you have to, but we were pleasantly surprised.

You could fit the tow bar side of this easlily yourself and even if you have to pay someone to wire it up it should still work out cheaper than some of the other alternatives above.

If you know how to remove the bumper which is dead easy the crash beam will bolt off and the towbar will bolt exactly where the crash beam was and in the same holes, you can reuse the existing bolts and any others needed are supplied.

The towbar comes with one socket so if you are towing a caravan you will need to buy a second one

Is there not a member near you who has done the wiring before who could help you out or consider a nano meet to get this done, although not many of thrm at this time of year ?

[RPWC]

No bumper cutting is needed on the saloon,but a small square it needed to be cut in the tourer one.

[uk_dave&gill]

No bumper cutting is needed on the saloon,but a small square it needed to be cut in the tourer one.

:( Shame. So if you take off the bar, you're left with a hole?

[oldcarguy]

:( Shame. So if you take off the bar, you're left with a hole?
Its so far under you would need to lay down to see it.

[RPWC]

:wot:agreed

[uk_dave&gill]

Its so far under you would need to lay down to see it.

Or park over a very reflective puddle? :getmecoat:

[Wakarikid]

Hi,
Can anyone advise if you can purchase the cambus electrics on it's own.
Thanks

[HarryM1BYT]

Hi,
Can anyone advise if you can purchase the cambus electrics on it's own.
Thanks

You can buy a proper Rover 75 Canbus unit, complete with wiring, plus 7 pin socket from Towsure at Sheffield for around £130. There is a kit for the canbus road lighting system and another kit for the supplementary 7 pin socket - about £35. There is nothing special about the latter kit and I would advise against buying that from Towsure on both price and completeness - it is only a partially wired socket. I ended up having to add extra wiring in and buy a voltage switching relay before I could fit it. Both are from the same manufacturer.

The Canbus kit is though absolutely spot on - This is the one I fitted and it flags up on the IPK any lighting failures on the trailer and which actual lamp has failed. It also inhibits the reversing sensors, when a trailer is connected, to prevent it bleeping as you reverse.

[risk30uk]

I have just bought a Witter tow bar from a scrappy for £20 incl electrics which includes a relay affair that overcomes issues around the hiline info stuff for light bulb status monitoring etc.


The fitting of the towbar is extremely simple: remove bumper (easy) ans fit bolts into pre-determined holes, I am about to photograph a how to for the electrics...I prefer soldereed joints and heat shrink insulation....rather than scotchlock connectors..


Chris

[Roverowner]

:DI have just bought a Witter tow bar from a scrappy for £20 incl electrics which includes a relay affair that overcomes issues around the hiline info stuff for light bulb status monitoring etc.


The fitting of the towbar is extremely simple: remove bumper (easy) ans fit bolts into pre-determined holes, I am about to photograph a how to for the electrics...I prefer soldereed joints and heat shrink insulation....rather than scotchlock connectors..


Chris

Look forward to it:) A bargain at 20 quid :D

[Shabbs]

I have just bought a Witter tow bar from a scrappy for £20 incl electrics which includes a relay affair that overcomes issues around the hiline info stuff for light bulb status monitoring etc.


The fitting of the towbar is extremely simple: remove bumper (easy) ans fit bolts into pre-determined holes, I am about to photograph a how to for the electrics...I prefer soldereed joints and heat shrink insulation....rather than scotchlock connectors..


Chris

Bring it on Chris, need to finish mine ASAP, though will likely use scotchlock.

[Johnny the Fox]

Bring it on Chris, need to finish mine ASAP, though will likely use scotchlock.

Nooooooooo no scotchloks, nasty things. Do it properly with some solder and heat shrink, you won't regret it :}

[Roverowner]

Nooooooooo no scotchloks, nasty things. Do it properly with some solder and heat shrink, you won't regret it :}

Sorry for my ignorance..... Solering is not a prob but what is heat shrink? Where do I get it???

[oldcarguy]

Sorry for my ignorance..... Solering is not a prob but what is heat shrink? Where do I get it???
Heat shrink is a rubber tubing which you slide over the joint and warm it with a hair dryer, and it shrinks down to form an insulation for the bare wires. I think most car accessory shops will sell it.

[risk30uk]

....just trying to find some time to do this job, will include the actual soldering/heatshrink method in the photos for the "how to"

[HarryM1BYT]

Sorry for my ignorance..... Solering is not a prob but what is heat shrink? Where do I get it???

Maplin / Farnell /CPC /ebay sometimes even Lidl or Aldi sell it.

It comes in a large range of sizes and two basic types, there is an internally sticky type and a none sticky type. Sticky is better at sealing and keeping moisture out, where there is just one wire out each end.

You pick a diameter which will comfortably slide over the cables, make your soldered joint, slide the sleeve over and warm it up to shrink it.

[Roverowner]

Thanks for the help. As I live in Sweden, Maplin ect are a bit far off but will try ebay.

[trikey]

Thanks for the help. As I live in Sweden, Maplin ect are a bit far off but will try ebay.

Any good electrical retailer will sell various sizes of heat shrink tubing, make sure you get the correct size for the wires you are using!