~ Jules' Tips ~

[Jules]

SLAM PANEL REMOVAL QUICK AND EASY METHOD!
Take it off as one whole assembly lights, horn & crash beam etc.

Just thought I'd post a couple of pics for those of you who think this task is daunting! After all it's most of the front of the car.

Having done a few now mainly for cooling fan motor replacement or the intercooler O ring replacement (if fitted)

Bumper removal 10 - 15 mins if the bottom screws are not rusted. (see other threads)
Slam panel 15 - 20 mins

From memory
8 X 13mm bolts in crash beam (not the 2 X 13mm black nuts)
2 X 10mm bolts on top near wings
1 X 8mm holding little oil cooler loop on
3 X 8mm bolts on engine cover
2 X Philips screws on inlet duct
2 X multiplugs on head lamp housings
Unclip the bonnet release divider block
1 X electrical multiplug for horn & sensor (near offside headlamp) Done once slam panel has been lowered slightly to get access to the multiplug:

Hey presto Panel off
So in other words Leave headlamps, crash beam, bonnet catches horn & inlet duct all still attached.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81146ed417d54991.jpg

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81146ed417c2f7a1.jpg

[Jules]

DIESEL INTER COOLER O RING MODIFICATION.
As mentioned on one of my previous threads, entitled CDT slight power loss This only affects the earlier design inter cooler. They were redesigned round about 53 Reg when they also did away with the Secondary fuel pump near the battery.

Bumper and Slam panel removal I'm afraid. Very awkward without:(

I have had a few of these lately and on low mileage diesels too, so I think there's 2 problems here

There is a design fault here with the inter cooler O rings and the way the plastic elbow is secured.

1. Incorrect rubber compound (we have had cars in with mileages as low as 30K with these O rings swelling)

2. The elbow does not seat deep enough into the inter cooler housing. Only one 8mm head bolt holds it in. Even with new O rings the outer one is visible with everything tightened up. :

I had to do a modification in a hurry for a customer so there is probably a better solution but this was better than nothing:
If anyone comes up with a better solution don't forget to post it!

Using 2 X Jubilee Clips and some aircraft wire locking, it stops the elbow from blowing out under full turbo pressure

One oil ring will have spewed out of the top, the other falls down into the inter coolerhousing. (easily retrievable)

I would try and source some better quality O rings than the OEM ones, try a hydraulics company
The OEM Part No is: PYX100320 and are of dubious quality.IMHO

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81146ed4fee4a3a6.jpg
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81146ed4fef72486.jpg
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81146ed51a95b813.jpg
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81146ed503f7d053.jpg

[Jules]

This topic has been mentioned a few times but I thought I would add my Two Pennyworth;)

These "Scrivets" are used in a few areas on our cars like:

Wheel arch liners
Boot trims
Plenum cover
Sat Nav TV tuner cover panel in Boot.
Anywhere else you can think of!

Once you've managed to actually remove the plastic screw (counted to ten & calmed down!)
Get rid throw them away but keep the outer "rawl" part.

Replace the screw bit with good old fashioned posi-drive self tappers (black coated type as shown) They fit very snugly (size 8 or 10 I think 15mm long?) and always unscrew next time you want them to!

They still look quite authentic for the purists too;)

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81149061df111e13.jpg
Overall look and will always unscrew next time!
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/81149061df255bac.jpg