Has anyone got this to work on switched live...

[StuBlake13]

http://eu.chv.me/images/Chinavasion-CVOC-C46-7.jpg

If you have which wire did you splice into and by what method...

Solder, Scotchloks (if so which size and where from?), twisting the wire ends and placing in a crimp connector?

Would it not be better to wire directly to battery with a switch added in to prevent battery drain? If this sounds like a plan (as I am fed up with cutting into looms) what wire do I need and if it needs an in-line fuse what ampage?

[Canon]

I was going to piggy back the electric windows fuse today (this is a switched live) but the red live wire from the DVBT power box has come out and needs soldering :mad:

Here is a link for the piggyback fuse if you want to go the same way
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180735824927?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[StuBlake13]

I was going to piggy back the electric windows fuse today (this is a switched live) but the red live wire from the DVBT power box has come out and needs soldering :mad:

Here is a link for the piggyback fuse if you want to go the same way
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180735824927?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

LoL Tony I had this weird feeling that had happened wonder how I knew...;) Thats what I'm counting on working, I plonked this up to offer Plan C and D alternatives :)

[Hainsie]

I'd be interested in an answer to this thread too!

[David Lawrence]

I'd be interested in an answer to this thread too!


Behind the glove box there are 3 spade terminals sticking down which I believe were intended for a rechargeable torch option. I plugged an insulated crimp spade connector on to one of those. You have to be careful to insulate them because the terminals are very close together.

You need a big spade connector. I think its 20A or something like that.

[Canon]

Behind the glove box there are 3 spade terminals sticking down which I believe were intended for a rechargeable torch option. I plugged an insulated crimp spade connector on to one of those. You have to be careful to insulate them because the terminals are very close together.

You need a big spade connector. I think its 20A or something like that.

What did you earth it to?

[Hainsie]

David, are you saying that any one of these three spade connections are a switched live on a 20a fuse??
Ditto Canon, what's it earthed to?

[HarryM1BYT]

If you have which wire did you splice into and by what method...

Solder, Scotchloks (if so which size and where from?), twisting the wire ends and placing in a crimp connector?

Would it not be better to wire directly to battery with a switch added in to prevent battery drain? If this sounds like a plan (as I am fed up with cutting into looms) what wire do I need and if it needs an in-line fuse what ampage?

Hi,

You seem to be having some serious issues with this unit. Are you sure the unit is not faulty?

What ever method you use to make your connection, if done right, should work. There is an 'amp' output at the rear of the DD which should become live when the DD is switched on. I would suggest using that. I would also suggest checking that the unit is receiving power across its power plug with a meter.

I cannot help more, because I don't have that particular unit.

[Jakg]

Do NOT draw power from the "amp" or "remote" output! They are for signals ONLY and only supply ~500mA!

[HarryM1BYT]

Do NOT draw power from the "amp" or "remote" output! They are for signals ONLY and only supply ~500mA!

Yes you are correct -sorry!. He ought to be looking for and connecting to the ignition switched live going into the radio.

[StuBlake13]

Yes you are correct -sorry!. He ought to be looking for and connecting to the ignition switched live going into the radio.

Thats what I used the LGW (Light Green White) wire but rather than hack into the car loom I used a crimp connector a la:

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSXe2SLebnWmX7EW6yKytBpTV9G427Se 8jcSNaBwSKD3ba5TeUL-w

Connecting the red wire (that via the adaptor links to the LGW in the grey ISO block which is outlined as being switched live) at one end and the other end of the red wire wrapped over the live feeds for the aerial and unit in the other end. Same for the earth by using the black wire on the adaptor loom which links to the black earth wire on the grey ISO block. Still I get nothing but the unit itself still works fine and only turns on with the turn of the key so the electrickery and signals are still passing through these connectors fine.

The unit isn't faulty as everything else works fine and just as it should. I couldn't be more pleased. However seeing as I have a DVB-T adaptor I would like to make use of it. The only other issue was with Primo but I got that to work and the fact it hangs at the load splash screen is common knowledge and Igo8 non primo still works fine. It just means I have to ensure I shut Primo down before turning off the ignition removing the card prior to start up and pushing it in afterwards to get Primo working properly.

[David Lawrence]

David, are you saying that any one of these three spade connections are a switched live on a 20a fuse??
Ditto Canon, what's it earthed to?



If I recall correctly I earthed it to one side of the glove box light circuit, but there is an in-line fuse in the wire to my DVB-T, and it looked similar to yours but it has 2 aerial inputs. There is another thread somewhere that gives the connections on those 3 spades, as other people have used it for auxiliary sockets. I believe it is designed to go to the armrest box where the rechargeable torch and extra power socket is meant to go.

That thread also gives details of the crimp spade terminals to use, and how to take care about insulating them. As I said you need to be careful that 2 adjacent spades dont end up shorting together because they are close together.

Its possible that one of the 3 is earth also. If I get chance I'll get under there and confirm where i connected to.

[wnj516]

I have fed my DVB amp and the extra amp for traffic from the DD switched outlet. No problems to date.