I have one or two silverline stuff....... never ever again

macafee2

Hi Simon.
I had a closer look at the factory crimped clips yesterday while i was sorting out a PS pump.

There is a little tag that is bent over tap this upright .
https://i.imgur.com/DZsyCpgl.jpg1

Next pop screwdriver in the end, and the clip opens.
https://i.imgur.com/yviXq3Ul.jpg2

On the table so it can be seen clear.
https://i.imgur.com/c4I0GNVl.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/D3RG51dl.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/CewXevMl.jpg5

https://i.imgur.com/E7z2QRal.jpg6

these are the same on the drive shaft boot but larger, but with the link Brian as given then maybe always best to use new.

If it's for spanners and sockets then you've been unlucky. For their spanners and sockets they are not that bad.

Other stuff maybe not.

Besides all the spanners, sockets etc come with a decent ( I want to say " lifetime" but I'm not sure ) guarantee if you register them with silverline.

My 3/4 set above has been well used and frankly abused out in the field on my tractors and implements. So far ( why am I saying this...I tempting fate.) They have handled everything I've thrown at them.

Same for the ring spanners and combinations sets I own. Although I did snap the jaws of a 10mm spanner that just happened to have a 2ft bar on its end. I didn't think it appropriate to claim on the warranty...

Once you go 3/4 you'll never go back to 1/2


You can by 3/4 to 1/2 and 1/2 to 3/4 adaptors. BGS do a nice set.

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know- that's the problem. I spent a packet on 1/2" sockets last year (Bahco) and can't afford to double up on a 3/4" system. I don't like adapters - they take up too much room and introduce play.

Excellent - thanks Steve. :bowdown:

3/4 is a bit of over kill for less then 24. Only 2 bigger that I think I have undone with 1/2 is 27 and 32. 32 is probably into 3/4 size considering the 350nm torque

macafee2

I've always thought it was most likely to be a clutch problem Brian. It even causes trouble when pulling away ordinarily (e.g. in a straight line from traffic lights) - it feels like a flat spot and I usually have to slip it to pull away smoothly.

I was thinking about changing it while the subframe is out of the way but the weight of the gearbox is putting me off. I'm not sure I can take it off on my own without dropping it (no assistant!) and I'm not sure I can lift it back up again and hold it in position while I line everything up properly. The car is only 350mm off the ground at the sill jacking points btw so there's not much room to crawl around easily.


When you say gearbox mounting, do you mean this one?

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...98d9373fff.jpg

Can you not hire a crane or an over engine support beam? ( Can't remember what the last are actually called, they consist of a bar that spans the bay and the engine and gearbox hangs off it from chains /ropes.

I made one out of a stout piece of timber, a couple of nylon ropes and the timber held above the car on a couple of step Ladders each side of the car.


I also used it with a ratchet tie down to lift the gearbox from the floor to mate with the engine, also to lift / support the sub frame.

A bit ghetto tech but I didn't have anything else to hand.

An engine crane makes it all a bit easier...as I found out the 3rd time I removed the gearbox...