If you supply the cavity of your choice tom will liberaly apply it I h ave Dynax S50 ready to go on Saturday.

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Are the drain holes not showing just after the welds ? i can see an hole, or are there supposed to be one more towards the back of the new panel?

My sills have just arrived and there are definitely drain holes

Stan

Don't know if anyone read what I put in the last thread about sills,but someone mentioned that the saloon body panels weren't available to get accurate impressions of the sills to have just the sill section re-manufactured,well I found on Rimmer's,they still have the tourer side body panels and they should be the same sill section,pricey but,fit for purpose I should imagine.
When mine needed doing(I live too far from Tom) so I bought a cheap gasless mig and made some cardboard templates and made my own,did a bit of welding practice first,then welded them in,with the drain/jacking pad hole,,after a bit of tidying with angle grinder,then a small skim of fine filler,completed job looked good.

It's still cheaper to buy them from Tom, I ordered mine through Ebay on Friday evening and they arrived today via ups.
I intend to fit them myself but I'm sure any garage could fit these as they look well made.
No hammer marks ,the bends are straight and the little end pieces have been welded on , ground down and the panels primed.

I know that I personally don't have the skill to make anything as good as these , and that's with welding up quite a few rusty cars for at least 20 years.

Stan

Hi Stan,agreed,but just wanted to put the information out there, someone was looking to the future with regards to having factory copies I suppose.
I've just pasted what I put in the other thread


(Rimmers seem to have the LHS tourer body panel(including sill)pricey though. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ALA500370
I would imagine the sill section is the same as the saloon.
Having said that,not meaning to blow my own trumpet,having done one of my own sills last year,using a little cardboard engineering to get the template,,i was very pleased with the results.And that was with a cheap gasless MIG,bought for £78,Yes,there was a little weld splatter,but the grinder smoothed that off and a slight amount of filler ,just to smooth and blend in,everything was fine.
It is worth a go,,just practice on a bit of scrap,and have a friend stand by,in case of fire,although I did pull back the carpet and trim in the area above the repair,just to be safe.
Hope this helps,,Ken.)

That's the drain hole where the sill triangulates towards the rear wheel, on my repair that was done approx 3 years ago is not there. Possibly Tom forgot to put them in and is now re-instating them. I'm in no way being critical of Tom as his work is brilliant I'm just a bit surprised the drain was omitted hence I've been wonder about drilling one, great for a squirt of Dinitrol, Dynax or any rust inhibitor.

Martyn.

Looking at his level of workmanship I would be surprised if it was nothing more than an oversight.
Maybe the first couple he worked on were rusted away ,like on mine once I finished poking at it ,
I can measure the hole if you want so you can drill the correct size.

Stan

Hi Stan,
Thanks for the offer but there's no need, I'll just make a tracing from the offside, which is still original, flip it over and mark the hole position on the other side, should be near enough.
Hole size doesn't really matter too much tbh 😉.

I agree with you that it was probably just an oversight on the earlier repairs, Tom has probably refined things now even more that us lesser mortals don't notice.

Martyn.

I need some very minor welding (bottom edges of rear wheel arch lips) on my wife's Honda S2000. I am in Essex so Notts is a bit of a trek. I do want someone who can do a great job without making up any major outness in filler.

Is Mr Hobbs the best bet or does someone know someone equally skilled a little closer to home ?

Thanks

Paul