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-   -   FBH - How to install, test and service (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=100297)

BigRuss 17th December 2011 21:00

The FBH if the outside temp. is low enough doesn't shut down even when the coolant is fully warm it goes into idle mode ;)

72C = part load operation, anything above 76.5 the control idle mode cuts in, if the temperature drops then drops below 71C it will resume part load operation if the coolant temperature drops further as a result of heavy demand from the vehicle heater the FBH will resume full operation at 56C.

Shutdown proceedure after engine switched off:

175 seconds full load operation, 100 seconds part load.

Hope this helps.

Russ

suffolk boy 17th December 2011 21:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRuss (Post 877597)
When the heater has been running it will still operate after the ignition is turned off this is normal as it goes through a shutdown proceedure where ignition is cut, the internal fan then continues to cool down the burner, when cool enough the FBH will shutdown completely. ;)

Please don't go cutting the K-bus wire with no good reason, if weird stuff is happening to other electric systems then unplug the FBH, your PCB is faulty.

There for a very good reason for the K-bus, it's there for diagnostic purposes, the cars ZCS coding includes the heater, when on T4 and running a diagnostic it will look for the heater via the K-bus if this is cut then it doesn't find it and you won't be able to run a full vehicle diagnostic.
Makes the time diagnosing faults an awful lot longer because then each ECU then needs to be accessed seperately. (the same goes for anything connected to the K-bus, CAN-bus or Nav-bus.)

Russ

looks like i have a little job to do on monday then:icon_frown:

HarryM1BYT 17th December 2011 21:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg (Post 877605)
D'oh, bit late now... can always reconnect it if needs be. Don't see any T4 sessions in the future though...

PCB isn't faulty (Mikes already checked it).

The problem is that even after driving for hours, with the car running at 80+ (using the inline stat), the FBH will continue running when I park up (no idea if its been running the entire time).

I understand it can run on to cool down... but it shouldn't of been on at all if it'd been hot enough for so long

I'll modify the above to suggest that the cut wire be left so it can be reconnected.

suffolk boy 17th December 2011 21:41

will do not any harm to solder it back up tho if i pull the fuse will it .or just use bullet connectors?

Jakg 17th December 2011 22:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by suffolk boy (Post 877678)
will do not any harm to solder it back up tho if i pull the fuse will it .or just use bullet connectors?

Thinking about it, if you unplugged the FBH before the T4 the K-Bus being cut would make no difference... AFAIK the T4 can't really do anything with the FBH anyway.
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRuss (Post 877618)
The FBH if the outside temp. is low enough doesn't shut down even when the coolant is fully warm it goes into idle mode ;)

72C = part load operation, anything above 76.5 the control idle mode cuts in, if the temperature drops then drops below 71C it will resume part load operation if the coolant temperature drops further as a result of heavy demand from the vehicle heater the FBH will resume full operation at 56C.

Shutdown proceedure after engine switched off:

175 seconds full load operation, 100 seconds part load.

Hope this helps.

Russ

Thankyou for the info - makes a bit more sense now







After my journey tonight...

When I started the car, it was at 33° C (still warm from my last journey).

It took 6 minutes of driving to get from 33° C to 75° C - I pulled over for a little while and noticed that the FBH seemed a lot louder than usual.

After a ~19 mile journey, the max temp attained was 84° C - it seemed to get to ~79° C quickly, then rise very slowly.

Could this mean my FBH is working properly now? Will give it another test tomorow...

soapy 17th December 2011 23:07

Excellent thread Harry looking forward to recieving my pcb back from frenchmike.:xmas-smiley-004:

Dragrad 18th December 2011 01:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT (Post 877225)
[note to mods - can this be made an HOW TO please, after a suitable time for any amendments and additions?]

Everyone else - please feel free to report any errors or amendments it might need......


As requested the How to is here. If you amend or add to your OP please let me know and I will update the How To accordingly. :icon_smile:

An excellent piece of work Harry :xmas-smiley-025:

Time is relative so this is the easiest way of doing it :xmas-smiley-004:

BTW

Reassemble reusing the paper gasket by pushing the split back together.

http://techwebasto.com/heater_main/t...hop/63378A.pdf
- This link is dead.....

Jakg 18th December 2011 16:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg (Post 877716)
After my journey tonight...

When I started the car, it was at 33° C (still warm from my last journey).

It took 6 minutes of driving to get from 33° C to 75° C - I pulled over for a little while and noticed that the FBH seemed a lot louder than usual.

After a ~19 mile journey, the max temp attained was 84° C - it seemed to get to ~79° C quickly, then rise very slowly.

Could this mean my FBH is working properly now? Will give it another test tomorow...

From 1° C -> 75° C took 10 mins this morning... sound like it's working or not?

HarryM1BYT 18th December 2011 16:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg (Post 878028)
From 1° C -> 75° C took 10 mins this morning... sound like it's working or not?


I would suggest that it is working. Maybe check to see if the FBH's flue is hot to be sure?

Mine running is very obvious, I can actually see the needle on the temperature gauge rising as I drive.

Jakg 18th December 2011 17:47

Exhaust (flue?) is hot (or at least it was even before it was working properly!)


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