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-   -   More on the EGR Bypass Valve....Modify or Leave alone (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=12517)

polinsteve 7th September 2021 16:42

Sounds a reasonable explanation. I really don't see the point in fiddling the EGR. It is there to reduce emissions and I'm sure that in real world driving, there will be no noticeable performance benefits.

HarryM1BYT 7th September 2021 17:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by polinsteve (Post 2898739)
Sounds a reasonable explanation. I really don't see the point in fiddling the EGR. It is there to reduce emissions and I'm sure that in real world driving, there will be no noticeable performance benefits.


It was developed as a botch to get around emission regulations, to burn of the Nox at a tickover. Fine when the vehicle is new, but as time goes on and because of the way they work, they have a serious detrimental effect on emissions and performance of the engine.


Oil from the turbo is drawn through the EGR, where in a working EGR the oil film will be burnt onto the EGR, choking that up, the intake manifold and the inlet valves. Cleaning those out thoroughly and regularly, is the only way to maintain low emissions with a working EGR. No car manufactures I have heard of have ever specified this to be done, so their are lots of diesel vehicles running badly, with silly levels of emissions.



Simple fix for many, is to bypass the EGR and clean out as best you can, the intakes of the crude.

Arctic 8th September 2021 06:57

Quote:

Quote:

Originally Posted by al_dente (Post 2898693)
I fitted an EGR bypass a couple of weeks ago and then broke down on the motorway last night :cry:

The car had an engine fault light (I think that's what it said) and would only run at about 1400 revs.

Looking under the bonnet, the EGR pipe had split and was blowing hot gasses onto the inlet manifold. You can see from the photo that it's melted some of the plastic.

I think it's melted some of the wire there too, which is the MAP sensor I think. I assume that's what was causing the engine fault.

I bought this type of bypass because I'd read that it puts less stress on the pipe - and I was careful when fitting the blanking plate. I guess the pipe was just getting weak and me messing with it has finished it off.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&d=1631002437

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic (Post 2898698)
Hi Alistair.
I have reported a few times now that those EGR bypass are not good to fit, they must have the support on them other wise the pipe will flex with vibration and end up splitting as yours did.

It as most likely damaged the wiring to the fuel rail sensor, the MAP sensor is on the other side of the manifold.

If you are going to fit a bypass EGR then use an original one gutted.
https://i.imgur.com/o7rjaJ6l.jpg1

With the support for the rest of the manifold egr exhaust.
https://i.imgur.com/t5SKSdol.jpg2

There are one out there not original with the support which are much better than the one that is fitted to your car, such as this below, but still not as good as having an original gutted one in my opinion.
https://i.imgur.com/KrLavmql.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/fejsG3Il.jpg4

These are the manifolds cleaned out which i exchange at the Nano meets, some have the EGR gutted others stay original.
https://i.imgur.com/dsEkw8gl.jpg5

To late for you now though, as you know you can 99.9% always find a solution on here.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=312649


https://i.imgur.com/mmiaHPZl.jpg6

I have a few of these if you wanted to revert back to original, but it's not an easy job to remove and re-fit the exhaust section.

https://i.imgur.com/W9wRSb2l.jpg7

Arctic

Quote:

Originally Posted by al_dente (Post 2898706)
Thanks Steve,

I guess I need to start by getting the EGR pipe off and then I can either fit a blanking plate or one of your pipes. I have seen a how-to on here somewhere, so will dig it out. Everyone says it's not easy though, so I'm not looking forward to that.

I'm not sure what to do with the wiring, I guess I'm best to get a second-hand plug from someone with a length of the wiring attached and solder it onto the existing wires.

I will need a new manifold, so will give you a shout for one once I've got the above sorted.

Cheers,

Al



HI Al.
I would start your own thread on your EGR & manifold problem, due to it getting lost in this thread, that way more owners will see it, and know not to fit the EGR bypass type without the support arm.
https://i.imgur.com/odzkzUIl.jpg1

Most certainly an original one gutted along with a clean manifold and MAP sensor, just changing the EGR is not enough.
https://i.imgur.com/svIBfPdl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/Cleg7I7l.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/t4F2ZSVl.jpg4

This what you do not want.
https://i.imgur.com/jODhJXHl.jpg5


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