Which 7" Andriod of Wince
 

Anyone like to advise which one to buy?
Looking to replace my current device but there are so many out there, similar in price.



regards
Rich

my wince unit lasted quite a number of years. it was hardware issues that finally killed it. there are members on here that can advise you on the androids reliability etc. someone will come along to help im sure. i relaced mine with a kenwood unit.im happy with that. :}

I can’t vouch for the reliability of my android unit as it has only been installed for a month, but so far so good. It does everything I need - Satnav, radio, Bluetooth, stores music on unit, reverse camera, plus a lot of things I don’t use (DAB, internet browser, movie player, email, Spotify).

If buying android a lot of the time pricing of the unit varies with the size of memory and storage. I went with 4GB ram, 2gb is considered the minimum and 1GB is just too slow to load programs and run them simultaneously. Pric3 also depends on where you purchase from, I went direct through Aliexpress, which was cheaper than Amazon or eBay.

I liked the look of the 8.8 inch wide unit which is BMW E46 compatible and fills the space in the dash nicely.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...b40881d476.jpg

Funny I was looking at the exact same model on AZM. How much was it? do you have a link? Ali Express??
cheers man look great I guess you changed the splash screen??

steering controls work as well??

I paid $AUD 330 plus about $40 for freight from Shenzhen Erisin and ordered via the alibaba.com app.
I can’t give you a direct web link as it was ordered through their app. It was a bit convoluted but go to alibaba.com, then open their app and search for Erisin8614b to locate this unit, or search for ‘android 10 bmw e46’ to bring up other compatible units.

Yes I changed the launcher/startup screen. The one in the photo in my previous post is AGAMA launcher, downloaded from the play store, I am now trialing Car Launcher Pro which I think I like better.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&d=1644978032

I've a win CE in the 260 still , all ok but more fiddly to add software, and the radio is not an app like android

The xtrons android in the cdti is pretty good apart from a couple of issues, 1.on odd occasions it will boot up to a blank screen, and needs a reset to sort it, and it goes through bouts of no remembering the radio stations.

C

Hi.

There are a few threads floating around about this.

Here's one for starters with some further links in it:

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=316915

Good luck with your research and final choice.

Thank you chaps for all the replies.

Thanks for your post. The Erisin is in interesting device, well spec'd and only a little over an inch deep. Might even be possible to wriggle the device in the dash without cutting the ears.


The Euro price is around 340 including shipping on Ali (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001851365288.html) so all I have to do now is write an essay explaining why I should get this instead of my (unfortunately rather) flawless Win CE device :getmecoat:


EDIT: Looked at Alibaba and found the unit you mentioned for around € 215,- excluding tax and import duties. Which lifts the price to the same level as on Ali.

Hi again,

Did you need to buy iso connector? I've got the grey and caramel coloured ones.

You can get that Erisin unit from their UK website here
https://www.erisin.co.uk/products/er...dsp-4g-wifi-bt for £219.

I think that's cheaper than AliExpress.

With those connectors you'll be fine. connecting will be no problem.

BTW I found the unit on Dutch Amazon for only € 284 incl VAT and Shipping. Cheaper than there website, speedier delivery and still sold by Erisin itself. Maybe Amazon UK has a similar offer?

Just a quick update.

I've gone and bought one on these including cameras dab+ modules and the tyre pressure monitor.
I also hope that the separate glove box usb cd player will work from amazon. Not purchased yet.

Had notification that its been dispatched from china. Also, the supplier contacted me advising I required a power connector. I agreed for £10 extra.

You bought the Erisin I presume? If so looking forward to hear your experience with the unit. I am really at the point of buying it myself :)

Hi,
Correct Erisin unit.
Figures crossed I've not wasted my monies.
Regards
Rich

I decided not to wait for your experiences with the unit and bought it with a DAB+ module and an OBDII adapter. The unit itself was a mere € 284 / 237 GBP including VAT & Shipping on Dutch Amazon and will be delivered Saturday. The accessories will take a bit longer so I'll have to wait before I can install it :getmecoat:

Great stuff, let's hope we did the right thing!! My accessories arrived today, head unit I have to wait for. Few days. Good lucky

Hi,


Do you by any chance have a picture with the connectrors fitted? They said I need another connector but havent supplied. My unit arrived yesterday and looks pretty good.


regards
Rich

Hi Rich,


Planning on fitting the unit this weekend (if weather allows). I will document my install with loads of pictures which I will post on my website and link here.


The unit I received has two looms and one of them is for the 17 pin BMW plug (IIRC). I will be using the loom with the two ISO connectors. At least I think I will because I can't remember what loom the previous owner used when he fitted the WinCE I have now :getmecoat:

A previous owner had butchered my ISO connectors when fitting a single din pioneer unit.
When I got the Erisin with the loom to plug into the 17 pin square BMW plug I was initially going to try and find an adapter loom to the iso connectors and repair them.
However if you trace the loom down behind the ashtray you will find that the iso loom plugs into another bmw square 17 pin plug. Disconnected the iso loom and I was able to lift the existing square plug up high enough to plug in the supplied head unit loom.
Good luck with the install.

okay great stuff, i'll check. Very helpful.

Well... I started fitting the unit today and ran into a problem. The ISO loom won't fit the ISO connectors from the 75. I have checked to see if I have the 17 pin connector (which is supposed to be behind the ashtray but even after I removed the ashtray I could not find it. Maybe because I have an MK2? Some pictures to clearify (note I had a WinCE unit installed).

https://i.postimg.cc/RhmJ6cvB/IMG-20...36-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/6qh2dyQG/IMG-20...37-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/W4QkVBKt/IMG-20...46-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/GmgD78xF/IMG-20...53-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/vBf6ZPFh/IMG-20...06-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/3JKD3CLj/IMG-20...41-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/L4k1d0V6/IMG-20...28-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7LC2pHKp/IMG-20...41-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pXq5rh7w/IMG-20...57-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/nhrjDVfC/IMG-20...00-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Cx2ZHywJ/IMG-20...it-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/YSmvdX97/IMG-20...32-resized.jpg

Contacted seller (Erisin) to ask for a solution. Would rather not have to slaughter the loom to have the connectors fitted.


To be continued!

OK, I am inpatient by nature and decided not to wait for a reply from seller and butchered the BMW loom to connect the unit to the ISO connectors. I bought myself a set of generic ISO female connectors and started hacking away. Created the loom, tested the unit and after confirming the unit did what it had to do fitted the unit.


Some pictures of my work in progress:


https://i.postimg.cc/j5ZgcVhg/IMG-20...05-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/rsshYhn8/IMG-20...11-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/m2cXY51j/IMG-20...04-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/T1sk8rFn/IMG-20...12-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/MKhsdmyS/IMG-20...51-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/zBJ2TDTH/IMG-20...59-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/CMrrfg5d/IMG-20...14-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/LsSxM4CQ/IMG-20...27-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pdBqVN3W/IMG-20...16-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/dVr5XZBT/IMG-20...20-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/9MF1r8jG/IMG-20...25-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/xCx5Hv0B/IMG-20...29-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Gt4Qj4tt/IMG-20...36-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/x8BPp9NR/IMG-20...01-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7PRXZnt2/IMG-20...29-resized.jpg



The unit is working properly. SWC is working, Reverse camera is operating as expected, I have radio (analogue), WiFi and phone reception is good.


I have not been successful in getting sound from the DAB+ receiver. I "think" I have the antenna grounded as per instruction and have connected it to the USB connector. It does find stations but it does not give me sound. I guess that's where my Sunday is going to be spent on ;)


Also the OBDII device cannot be connected to the unit although I bought a compatible dongle from Erisin. Will experiment with the two dongles I have lying around to see if they do connect.


General observations: the unit responds fast to commands, the sound is more than decent with the standard speakers in my Connie and GPS seems to be fast in acquiring satellites.


So all in all: happy camper! :)


EDIT: Another little job for Sunday is to try and get the Agama app installed and working. I really love that app and should make it possible to get an oak background with which it integrates even better in the car :D

DAB+ is working although the quality of reception leaves to be desired. I will try to source a better antenna to see if that helps.


I used one of my "obsolete" OBDII adapters in the car and that one is found by the unit (so don't buy the one from Erisin). Torque (supplied on the unit) is connecting to the adapter and shows info of the car. Will have to investigate further.


I haven't told you the unit is also equipped with a less than legal version of iGO Next. Maps are already present (at least for my country) and having iGo is a big plus for this radio. I had already been thinking of installing Sygic or Waze but that's not necessary.


I have Agama installed and it works like it should. Looked at Car Launcher Pro but that's to "flashy" for me (and the Rover ;))



Still happy with the unit :) Let's see how it holds up!

For those interested: to get into the factory settings of the 8788 you can use password 126 :D

I found the same. The reception was better when the anntenna wasnt stuck to the wind screen.

I ordered a new antenna which is supposedly better. If not I will stick to FM radio which will not be fased out in The Netherlands until 2030. We'll see what happens when the time comes ;)


I have been using the unit on a daily basis now for over a week and still not disappointed. The sound quality is much better than the WinCE unit and operating the unit using Agama is ... well... simply put... fun :D


This is what I am looking at when the unit is in action:


https://i.postimg.cc/4xJrhgLy/IMG-20...49-resized.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pXQwTTB3/IMG-20...48-resized.jpg

:drool4:

Intresting to read guys, I have been thinking about this but had no clue where to go to as there is so much offered online.
Mine is a 2003 ztt.
How do I save this thread so I can find when starting this project?

You could send me a p.m. when your ready to install. I will send you the info then.

You could send me a p.m. when your ready to install. I will send you the info then.


Or you can use the thread tools on the top of this page :)

Sending the info would be great Sjonnie!
Will contact you when im ready for it as im very buisy at the moment on my other MG (MG Midget with the 1.8 Rover K series engine in).
Ill send you a PM for contact info.

Ive used the Threadtools and now am subscribed to this thread.
To be sure Ive also printed it on paper, yeah I know im old fashioned:D

Hi There, Where did you mount the rear camera? I'm thinking of mounting below the rear MG logo ....
regards
Rich

Hi Rich,


For the Rover 75 I have a wireless rear view camera installed I have bought from Oterleek (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32463357189.htm). Very happy with it and installation was a breeze :)


As you can see in the link the camera is integrated in the number plate holder. Unless you have a Smiley this would be the easiest option.



I have had multiple wireless number plate holder cameras from Oterleek and they were always performing quite well.

Old fashioned? You'd better say reclaimed vintage since that's trending nowadays:D


sent you a PM to follow up when you're ready!

Hello Sjonnie!
As I'm fed up with my old GPS which is draining the battery and my fanciful 6CD changer, I'm thinking of swapping the old radio.
But I don't want at all to butcher anything in the center console and would like a straightforward swap without any trouble.
I read with great interest your 'adventures' but since my radio is a genuine one which was never altered, I hope the cables given with Erisin will be sufficient.
What model of Erisin excactly did you choose and why?
I'm looking at Amazon France and they seem to have a lot of them...
A 8.8 model? A 9" doesn't do?

This one?
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...AC_SL1200_.jpg


Thank you for your help. :bowdown:

Note, you might get a bill from the delivery company for VAT on your purchase, so I would cost that in when deciding to buy from outside the UK.

Also, what if you need to make a warranty claim, how do you return it?

Edit: just noticed you're in France and looking to buy on Amazon :duh:

I have bought the Erisin ES8788B which is performing rather nicely :) It's fast enough and hasn't crashed since day one.


I expect you won't have to butcher the original wiring because you either have a BMW loom (the one with the funny pins) or an ISO loom. I sure didn't change anything on the wiring of the car; I only butchered the supplied loom from Erisin. No harm in that. :D


By the way: how is your R25 these days? We had some chit chat over that car on "that other forum" ;)
EDIT: I didn't want the 9" version because in my opinion it looks rather silly with the eyebrow above it. And it isn´t a Tesla so I didn't fancy a tablet like look and feel :p:

I hope I will not need any other loom than those supplied, do I?
I expect the genuine Rover antenna & wheel control to be compatible with that Erisin which looks nice with its large screen without any buttons by the sides like some other radios. You've sold it to me Jan! :D

My missus' R25 is doing well, still in good condition and still rather young with 115k km and 20 year old (57k km when I bought it 7 years ago!). Always cared for and nothing to complain. A good reliable K engine despite some kill-joys in France & elsewhere! ;)

The antenna and SWC will work just fine. You might have to create your own loom/cable as I have shown you in one of my previous posts.


It's really a nice head unit once you get it installed. And installation should be a breeze for you as you have ample experience with Rovers 😉

BTW I've lots of questions. Tell me if I'm boring... ��

They say it's usb compatible but I don't see any usb acces at the front. Why?
Do you think I could connect my 6CD changer for I don't see any place to insert a CD at the front?
I don't see either any memory card entry... ��

You're not boring me. I understand your questions.


The USB connectivity is provided with a cable from the back of the unit. I have routed these to the glove compartment.


Your CD changer cannot be connected. No need though since you have enough storage on the device and you have USB :)


The middle "button" is a cover for an SD Card. IIRC it supports 64 GB cards. So who needs a CD changer? ;)

Thanks Jan.
The dice is cast and I've ordered the same as yours (Erisin ES8788B) from Amazon France for 308.75 € with in theory all that's needed to connect that android unit. :}

We'll see.

Here is the link:

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B08DNJCLHB/...052621_TE_item

Excellent choice!


Don't forget to test the unit thoroughly before cutting of the "ears" for final placement. ;)


Please keep us posted on your fitting and experience with this unit (especially the loom:D)

It'll be done.
But that loom precisely may be one of my worst nightmares... :eek:
I dislike very much not to know how to end a job just before beginning it.
It might be not a walk in the park but a sleepwalk in the dark! :o

I know it may look insane, but a large bit of the exchanges about the ERISIN swap now can be found in the following thread:

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk//fo...=319916&page=2

Well, you wouldn't have needed more info tha this: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...3&postcount=24 ;)

Thanks a lot buddie but no butchering at all on my side if I can. I could do mistakes inverting wires and I dislike headache... ;)

Hello Sjonnie I've just got my new Erisin today! So quickly that I haven't yet got the special bunch of wires BMW-ISO I've just ordered nor the 4G key and SIM card ordered as well. That gives me enough time to think about the swap.

Nice package well protected. All the items inside.
But it's not their business apparently to show and explain how to make all the connections particularly for MG Rover: a very short 21 page leaflet only telling you how to use the software and nothing at all about all those bunches of wires provided in the box!

Here is your diagram (and mine) showing all kind of connections at the back.
And then here is the connection between Erisin and the BMW plug I'm supposed to connect from Erisin A output to the BMW-Iso cable I'm waiting for, then to both genuine ISO plugs (but the third one going to the obsolete 6 CD changer) I'm supposed to find out behind my genuine symphony.

Here is what I need and don't need (rather simple):
A. Power & Speakers output (of course!) (from Erisin A output)
B. USB out (4G key) (so from Erisin G output)
C. No video camera, no TV, no Subwoofer

Questions:
1. where is supposed to go that white plug (???)?
2. where am I supposed to find the Steering Wheel Control cable? Which colour? How many wires?
3. Given that I've got 4 speakers and 4 tweeters in the cabin, how can the 4 wires of the Erisin power supply (7,8,9,10) be distributed?
4. I guess I'm supposed to cut out both ears on each side of the Erisin and to take off the A/C control to ease the swap... (I feel the nightmare & headache coming very soon... :eek:)
EDIT: 5. Where did you positioned the 4G antenna in the car (there's a big bunch of wire)?

Well my poor Jan I think that's all for... today!
Thank you thousand times for your advice and answers! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Tweeters do not have direct connection to Head Unit. They are spliced to wires of main speakers in the front doors and on the back for rear speakers.
That means you need feed/wires for only 4 speakers as you have.

Thank you mate. So one good concern sorted!

Eureka!
Night has taught me something very astute...
I was asking what was the use of that white plug in my power cable with 17 pin connector.
After a close look the power cable with 40 pin connector (which I think useless for my car) has a similar white plug (same dimensions) connected to that special canbus decoder box whose name is parting the 2 different connections.
Hence I've taken off this special canbus decoder box from the 40 pin loom and connected to 'my' 17 pin loom and that's it.

Then the next move is to connect the 17 pin plug to the BMW-ISO loom I'm waiting for and those 2 brown & grey plugs to both 8 pin plugs (C0092 & C0098 in RAVE electric sketch) I'm supposed to find out behind the dash (coming to the obsolete genuine radio), the ISO antenna cable, plus the new items (usb plugs and 4G antenna) going to the glove box and the deal might be done nicely... :shrug:

I hope I've been clear enough.

But if by misfortune I'll find those 3 connectors (C0921 yellow, C0922 green & C0983 - i.e. 20 pin connector) I'll be deeply embarrassed... :mad:

Been away for a couple of days so "forgot" to check in on your progress. :getmecoat:


I think you will do fine connecting the radio to the loom of the car once you have found the original loom. It is really not that hard or difficult.


If you have taken out the original radio, what type of connectors have you found? The BMW one or the grey and brown one? The blue/yellow/green plug in the car should have two wires connected to them for the steering wheel controls in the yellow plug. You can see the wires of my car on page three.


As for your questions:


1 - You answered that one yourself :)
2 - Yellow plug, forgot the colours of the wires but as soon as you found the yellow plug, you'll know. I think it doesn't matter how to connect the cables.
3 - Answered by @Roverlike
4 - Yes, cut the "ears" and remove the AC unit. But only cut the "ears" after confirming the unit is working properly. So do test all functions of the car (i.e. GPS, SWC, Sound, Power off etc.)
5 - I didn't use the 4G antenna because I don't have that. If you mean the GPS antenna, I mounted that on the steel tube behind the unit under the dash. Picks up GPS rather fast in that position. If you did get a 4G antenna I´d suggest mounting that next to the A pillar on the passenger side of the car.


Looking forward to your reply and pictures of your work in progress ;)

Hello Sjonnie!

I've just lost my message I was ending... :mad:

Hence I put the pics I have done in the afternoon.
Big issue: pins don't seem to be in their right position in the power plug at last (Grey C0098). Guess what: managing to switch on both plugs and positioning the power one my dash switched on suddenly twice by itself without the key in the lock! :eek:

Pics:

1. Behind Low line Symphony radio in the center console.
2. Back of the radio.
3. Grey power plug C0098 one side.
4. Grey power plug C0098 other side.
5. Grey power plug C0098 in the French workshop manual
6. Brown speaker plug C0092 in the French workshop manual
Sorry but you can see those sketches in the RAVE manual in English.

The so-called 40 pin ISO plug provided within the Erisin package looks unusable: you've to cut the central spine and even so you can't get plugs firmly stuck into it.
The only solution is to use the BMW 17 pin much more reliable but you need to order the compulsory BMW female - ISO male loom I'm waiting for.

Anyway what do you think about pin connections? What could I do?
I fear the same problem may occur with the BMW loom if some wires aren't in front of their right counterpart...
Thank you for your help. I feel depressed... :o
EDIT: unfortunately the RAVE sketches and tables don't mention wire colours in both plugs... :duh:
EDIT2: the bunch of looms inside look very stiff and rather short: I've tried to pull it but it looks stuck inside so no chance to find out another plug below... :o

The same in English! Phew!

I have to disagree with @Sjonnie on steering wheel controls. In case of your car they are not on the Yellow plug. They are on the Grey plug C0098.
RAVE in electronic form have all wire colours nicely described.
Steering wheel controls occupy pin position 2 and 3 in Grey C0098 plug with wire colours Blue/Orange and Blue/Purple which you can nicely see on your pictures and French as well English description table.

Thank you Roverlike. That's what I see too: 2 wires.
Unfortunately that doesn't seem fully matching the picture of the plug above (pics 3 & 4): I can see the Blue/Purple (RAVE #3) but I'm unsure about the Blue/Orange... maybe the first on the left (RAVE #2) in the pic #4 (the big earth black - RAVE #8 - being on the right on the same pic).

I can look afternoon when I am back from work. Seems they used Purple/Orange instead ...

Now I can try a grey C0098 matching table (see pictures 3 & 4 above):

1. Red/Purple - phone mute signal
2. Blue/Orange - SWC +
3. Blue/Purple - SWC -
4. Purple/White - Permanent battery feed + (no pin, not connected in ISO plug)
5. Yellow/Purple - Aerial amplifier switching signal
6. Red/White - Panel illumination (no pin, not connected in ISO plug)
7. Green/White - Ignition swithch power supply +
8. Black - Earth -

Feel free to improve or correct it. Pair of colours may be switched (for example Purple/White or White/Purple #4).

Another concern now...
Look at the grey plug in the loom I've ordered: only 5 pins instead of 6 at least! And which ones are suppressed? :mad:

Aren't you making it more difficult for yourself than you should? You have two iso plugs in the car you can use (if you make your own loom) and you have the wires from the SWC which you can splice into to connect to your Erisin loom. You definitely don't need the GPS antenna and plug because Erisin has a GPS antenna supplied.


I can understand your reluctance to create your own loom from the Erisin to the car but it is not that hard and you have had bigger challenges than that ;)


EDIT: As for the ordered connector: if you know which colors the wires have in the 5-pin plug you can figure out what they are for (colouring codes of modern ISO plugs are standardized). You get the Erisin loom and see which wire is "extra" and than you can work your way around that (literally:))

Pins on that connector goes :
2 4 6 8
1 3 5 7

You listed correct functions on the pins.

EDIT: Not sure what you mean by no pin, not connected - where?

Have a look on the BMW grey plug above: only 5 pins out of 8.
And the ISO one has 6 pins out of 8, hence my remark about pins 4 & 6.

Ok, I see now

I don't like to be bored by stupid problems in 2022 due to no plug & play items. Why making a job so difficult when it would be rather straightforward to make it easy?

Actually I'm stuck by ridiculous connectors: I've tried once more in the afternoon, after planing plastic edges to make them fit to the ISO connector provided. But the loom is very stiff, I can't see what I'm doing because I can't pull it enough out of the console aperture.

I thought I'd succeeded but testing the connection I had no power.
Then pulling out both brown & grey connectors, I noticed that 2 pins in the ISO connector provided, probably connecting with 7 & 8 in the grey plug, were pushed in and so not connected. There's nothing to guide the plugs in that bl...y ISO connector and pins look fragile and approximative.
I can't do a proper work with that poor kind of stuff!

Hence I'm waiting for the supposed saving BMW intermediate loom with stronger pins.
If it can't do any good, I'll leave it to my good mechanic and that's it.

Indeed I would like to be able to do it myself but I'm not keen to tilt at windmills...

Arnude I have just checked my wireing and I have the same 5 pins in the new BMW loom, my erisin radio works the iso gray plug in the car has 6 pins all the functions work as they should, most of the erisin functions just need a live supply, my advice to you is take a chill pill have a cup of tea and wait for the BMW loom to arrive then fit it and all will be well :}

Thank you sooo much buddie! :bowdown: :clap:
You've delivered me of a heavy burden and gave me hope! Phew! :sunny:
The problem seemed uselessly tricky because of a very badly designed ISO plug :banghead: :box:. If the BMW does the job then... :drool4:

Regarding the tea I think I'm fine since I'm born or nearly... I'm used to take 3 big breakfast cuppas and 3 mugs of nice one (Dardjeeling or Lapsang Souchong) at 5 o'clock. :D
I'll think about the pill... ;)
Is a live feed needed? I can do with the power supplied by the key in first or second position. It was already so with my genuine Alpine one. :shrug:

Thus wait & see...

Permanent live and ignition live are in the iso gray plug, all the speakers are in the brown plug, the only connection you will have to make is for the steering wheel controls, in my car this was 1 wire in the three colour iso plug, it only had 2 wires in the whole triple plug and one was sealed from the factory.:}
Don't forget that you will have to connect the GPS aerial supplied with the new radio and you may have to connect the phone external microphone if the microphone built into the radio has poor reception (mine had poor reception and i connected the external microphone):}

Hello Sean!

As a good pic is worth much more than laborious explanations, here are my questions enclosed in it.

As you may guess I've just got my precious add-on in the morning.
Much more reliable indeed is that BMW connection, stiff and with every pin in place, but I needed a moment to guess how I should manage to switch both BMW plugs together (very astute kind of drawer and I assure anybody that once in place it can't be taken apart without breaking something).

I'm not ashamed to look a bit dumb but I'm still uncertain about the SWC.
I read several times your explanation and here is my question:

Do I need to splice both pins #2 (+) and #3 (-) and then add a length of wire to join their extremity to the wire inside that tiny white connector (cf. pic) which is leading into the Android radio? Am I wrong?

Regarding the ignition live I assume it'll be connected, so no regret for the permanent feed.

OK for the GPS aerial: Jan told me where to fix it, inside the dash, behind the Android and very close to the windscreen bottom.

Regarding the microphone, I'm unsure. Generally I never talk by phone when I'm driving, it's dangerous and forbidden by law (even too many stupid guys here are stubbornly using it). In any case I think I'd put an external microphone in my missus' 25 she's never using too. I can fit it in the 75.

Thank you for your invaluable help.

Seems like you are all set (well almost ;)).


I have placed the microphone close to the rear view mirror only to find out that the cable of the supplied microphone is about 50 cm too short. I got an extension cable but have not had the time (or desire) to take out the unit (again) to connect the microphone. I should do it because the reception of the build in microphone leaves to be desired.:duh:


Looking forward to the photo's of the placement and the final result :D

Sorry for the late reply am working on an afternoon shift, right your steering wheel control wire in the photo has a plug on it mine didn't ,my steering wheel control wire was in the 3 coloured iso plug, I joined my wire to the wire on the erisin labelled SWC,now I'm thinking that your steering wheel control wire in the photo may plug into the 3 colour plug where your car's steering wheel control wire is. Right just looked again at my wireing green plug in the centre of the 3 iso plug has 2 wires blue and purple blue and brown, in my car the blue and brown connects to the earth wire on the erisin loom and the blue and purple connects to the SWC2 wire on the erisin loom ,this is where our wiring is different ,maybe sjonnie can talk you through wireing the steering wheel control wires as he has the same radio as you. Sorry i can't help you anymore than this as we have different wireing for the steering wheel controls from erisin :duh:

As I've told both my SWC wires are in the ISO grey plug (#2 & #3).
All other connectors (among them the 3 coloured iso plug which was intended to drive the 6 CD changer) are definitely useless in my case.

But as I've got 2 wires coming from my SWC, my concern is: should I splice both #2 (positive) & #3 (negative) together before joining the result to the lonely white wire with black plug (as in my pic)? Is it possible to splice together both positive & negative wires coming from the SWC??
Jan (Sjonnie) are you able to give me a clue?

I've just ordered stuff from Amazon to do the connection properly. It is due to arrive Saturday next, with a short aerial extension to give me a bit more wiggle room and an external microphone as well. It becoming pricey though...

Thanks mate. I don't want to make a mess in my pride & joy... :o

:}Steering wheel control wires are in the 3 colour iso plug, do a search on here I just did every post says steering wheel control wires are in this plug, you may have to remove the plug from your erisin loom and connect the wires from the 3 colour plug to it :}
One post i read says connect blue purple/blue brown/orange depending on your eye sight to either of your new wires apparently it doesn't matter which way round.when you have connected the wires the radio has to learn the signals from your steering wheel control wires go into the radios settings find SWC on this page will be symbols for volume + volume- and other symbols mode fast forward ect you have to press the symbol it will flash then press and hold the corresponding button on the car until it changes to green then the radio has recognized the car signals and all should be good:}

You CANNOT splice both SWC wires together because in that case SWC will be useless. SWC works in a manner of resistance in your car so resistance needs to be measured between these two wires. If you splice them together no resistance can be measured.

Blue/Purple (#3 negative) wire can be spliced to Erisin earth wire (Black wire that goes to Erisin unit) and Blue/Orange (#2 positive) wire can be spliced to SWC White wire with black plug you have labeld at Erisin loom from your picture.

Thank you mates for your help.
Yes Roverlike I do understand now, your explanation is crystal clear and matches exactly in my case with what I've got in front of me. That makes sense. :driving::hurray:
Maybe I'm to try some temporary but careful strap while I'm waiting for the stuff I've ordered and then at last test the unit. :shrug:
I feel so dummy in electricity... A shame with a father who was engineer in electronics and worked in the French civilian rockets business in the 50s & 60s up to 1975... :rolleyes:

Great update : IT WORKS ! :D:p:

I've just connected to both ISO plugs, aerial indeed and even GPS aerial.
I've paired with my Bluetooth phone, put French preferences and tested FM radios, playlist from the phone and factory GPS software.
Afterwards cut both ears.
But it looks I can't see my phone on the screen via Bluetooth but only by the USB cable provided apparently but not tested... Mystery... :shrug:

Now full set up will be done on Saturday for I'm waiting for bits and pieces. :drool4:

Well done that man, dare i ask if the steering wheel controls work :p:

I have cut the "ISO" plug from my old WinCE unit to create a connection to the yellow/blue/green combi plug for my SWC. I used the white wire from Erisin which is labeled KEY1 or KEY2 (I can't remember) and routed one cable from my improvised plug to a black earth wire. Works like a charm. Below picture shows the wiring of the SWC plug:

https://i.postimg.cc/BtDBdRxG/IMG-20...14-resized.jpg

Not yet tested. I'm waiting for the stuff I've ordered from Amazon (pins, male & female and the like) to do a proper job if I can.
It's a damn uneasy position than to maintain the Android outside of its place with all the wires attached (plugs, antennas you name it) and playing with the software to learn how it works.
Next step on Saturday. ;)

Well done you. On my side I'm waiting for the stuff Saturday next to do the trick.
Presently I'm fighting to activate my 2nd SIM card I've got but still waiting for the 4G key which is on its way. I can't wait.

I think I'll have to test your software which looks nice (don't remember the name at the moment) to change the appearance of the screen and WAZE to replace that IGO one which is provided with the Erisin.
It's a tough job either to take the USB wires down to the left part of the cigar lighter. I'll put some pics when the job is done.

It's an Android app called Agama. I have been using it for years. Not sure if you can find it in the "store" at the moment though. It's an app made by a Russian company. :shrug:

Absolutely : Agama car launcher is still available. Shame it's Russian but after all are we at war against Russian, are we ? Not at all : just that devilish fool of dictator and his courtiers...:devil:
Just a glimpse at what arrived today : it looks I'm to play toys... ! :D

Agama is Russian, that's true. But we must not forget the people in Russia live in a totalitarian state and don't have a say in what the country does. So Vlad is a total 4ss but the Russians are not ;)

100% true, that's what I've said. ;)

Nothing to tell today: I've got my bits & pieces (20cm aerial extension, external micro & bits & bobs for that wretched SWC connection) too late in the afternoon.

And the first part of the same was spent doing comings & goings from one shop to another to get at last the unhoped-for 4G key or box I've in the end found at Orange the well-known French provider.
Why another key? Because the Chinese Erisin one is absolutely unable to accept our French (and I bet European) SIM cards: the notch was a bit too short and the connection between printed circuits couldn't be done. Hence DO NOT buy your 4G key from China in case you need one. Buy it in your country even it's made in China! That's the irony of the trade. I hope I'll be refunded.
I know my phone could be a 4G transmitter but I wished to get an independant 4G+ transmission for my new Erisin Android.

BTW I've fully and delicately stripped the ISO loom of their plugs to get several length of coloured wires with their pins. The idea is to not butcher anything in the BMW loom but use a few useful parts of the useless ISO loom to make a clean and solid connection for the SWC. I hope you'll see that on Monday.

Tomorrow a nice trip is expected with my vintage car club...
Stay tuned... ;)

Work in progress, last update but not least.
Both missing wires are in place and 5 pin grey plug is now 7 pin.

Dark purple wire (-) (from #3 inside the grey plug) soldered with the black #8 (earth) in the BMW plug.
White wire (+) (from #2 inside the grey plug) connected to the white wire (SWC) going to the Erisin Android.

4G+ connection fixed: my small new Orange box bought yesterday is working fine via Wi-Fi, so Erisin --> Wi-Fi --> 4G+ box. Tested with my smartphone so far.
Thus no need to use the 3G/4G USB cable provided with the Erisin. Better: there's a battery within the 4G+ box. So no need to connect it at all while driving but recharge it from time to time. I can put it under the armrest for example, or even in the pocket. Easy peasy.

I hope that the rebuilt will be a doddle tomorrow (hem :o), fingers crossed and the rest...

Not a doddle at all.
Too many wires and SWC doesn't work properly.
However I did what you told me to do Roverlike... :o
The only thing it does when I push or pull the volume button : reboot the Erisin ! :mad:

Arnaud you have connected the wrong wires for the SWC ,you need to connect the two wires from the three coloured iso plug :duh:

Thank you Sean but the problem is that this three coloured ISO plug was only going to and from the obsolete 6CD changer in my car at least.

I'm not stubborn but according to the RAVE diagrams in my car SWC both wires are located in the grey ISO plug as assessed by Roverlike.
But it may be different according to different kinds of audio system.
That's why I do not understand... :shrug:

Can you explain me what you connected to what and how? What pin to what pin.
I cannot say I managed to follow you on your last picture with pins.

You said that from Grey plug at position #3 you took dark purple, when on that position you have Blue/Purple wire (-). Then on pin #2 on grey iso plug you said white wire when on that position you have Blue/Orange (+) wire.

Second questionmis did you follow instructions how to tell Erisin what button on the SWC do what? If I remember correctly you should enter into Erisin system to tell him what is doing what.
It will not start working if you do not follow these steps as I know.

Could you provide a picture of the final loom between the car and the Erisin? If you connected the wire labeled KEY2 to the SWC wire of the car and connected the other SWC wire from the car to a ground wire on the Erisin you should not have a spontaneous reboot when using the SWC ;)

As the picture tells and I've just told above, I added 2 male pins to the grey ISO plug to establish a contact with the 2 same female pins on the genuine Rover ISO plug. The #2 (+ positive) is the white wire connecting to the white wire coming from the Erisin main plug and intended for that use as it appears on the label. The #3 (- negative) is the dark purple wire connecting to the black wire (- earth) coming from the #8 of the same grey plug.
I'm sorry I can't be clearer.

Regarding the Erisin system, I can't find out where to tell him what is doing what... :o:shrug:

Arnaud, I am sorry, but I am talking about grey plug from your car loom. In that loom you do not have dark purple and white wire.

If you are talking about your adapter wire ISO to BMW 17 pin then I cannot follow you there.

You will need to provide me picture of what you have.

Sorry I can't because it's now inside and I'm really fed up with that stupid design from people who aren't able to produce the plug & play device which I was looking for.
I thought my picture of the loom with arrows and comments was clear enough... :shrug:

I understand what you tell me Jan but I think I haven't made that inversion. I tried to work carefully. And BTW it was a hell of a job to try to keep all those big bits & bobs behind the Erisin. And I succeeded.

Anyway it'll be the job of my good mechanic next Friday to solve the problem.
I've spent nearly half the day to mess around and to catch a backache (remember my degenerative spinal disk disease...) and nearly a headache... I'm exhausted... I knew it wasn't a job for my poor self...:duh:

Moreover in case it might help some of you to understand the problem, it looks that even I've shut off the Erisin it's not actually because as I look at my Noko Genius charger the battery looks drained... I bet by the Android. Does it make sense about a mistake I may have commit?

Thanks a lot to all of you for your patience.

I understand, I was talking of the beginning of the long loom I've added
Regarding the same grey ISO plug coming from the car, my #2 white wire (+) is connected to the #2 blue & orange wire (+) and my #3 dark purple wire (-) is connected to the #3 blue & purple wire (-). Am I right and clear? :shrug:
It wasn't very tricky to add 2 male pins to the initial 5 ones in the right place.

If you are fed up it is wise to leave it to your mechanic. Otherwise you risk disliking the Erisin for the fitting while it is really a very decent device. So smart move!


I don't mind tinkering with ICE and I should have taken that into consideration while trying to assist you.:getmecoat:


So keep our fingers crossed your mechanic is going to get the deice working as you would like it!:bowdown:

Now I understand what you are talking about. Your picture is so small and although you arrowed what you did it does not provide opportunity to follow wire colours and pin positions.
You said that you connected Blue/Purple wire to black wire on BMW adapter. But does that black wire from adapter goes to black wire on Erisin? It is important to follow the wire all way long.

When you finaly connect (or you already connected wires) as I understand you will need to introduce SWC to Erisin - see post #74 from this thread.
I cannot tell you where that optionmis within Erisin menu since I do not have Erisin at me to guide you. You will need to find it yourself, or someone else who has Erisin will need to help you.

EDIT: From mg-rover.org I found this quote:"Yes in the 'settings' there is option to pair the steering wheel controls. Press the desired function on the head unit and then the corresponding SWC button."

Not at all Jan I'm not disappointed by the Erisin, because I think I'd had the same tricky problems with any other one. The reason is obvious: no manufacturer is interested in producing a device fully fit for our old Rovers! ;)
And BTW I thank you very much for your advice and help.

The Erisin is working nearly as it should, connected to my phone, connected to GPS, to my 4G+ box via Wifi, I can answer phone hands free, the radio is working fine and I can send my phone playlist to the car speakers.

The only disappointing points are:
- I can make a screen transfer from my phone to the Erisin screen (for example to see my Torque Pro app, because the one provided with the device can't recognize my ELM nor the other one I've put in the Rover 25).
- it looks that the number of Apps compatible with Car Play on my phone is drastically limited. It looks weird because I can transfer the whole phone screen on my lounge TV.
- I would like to swap some icons on the launcher but the notice is very poor and brief. I know you've installed another launcher but it's not the moment.

After all I was using the SWC power +/- only, so it's not a great loss.
The major concern is that the battery is draining.
I'm fully out of my comfort zone messing in the 75. I haven't the skill and I should have stuck to that from the beginning and passing the burden to the mechanic... ;)

The fact is there's absolutely nothing about that parameter I bet for the good reason that they probably consider that we are connecting their device to a BMW car and that those eccentric people who are using Rovers are to fend for themselves!

From mg-rover.org I found this quote:"Yes in the 'settings' there is option to pair the steering wheel controls. Press the desired function on the head unit and then the corresponding SWC button."

I bet it does because never ever the Erisin may have worked without
1. the black - wire (#8) which is also black in the Rover grey ISO plug
2. the red + wire (#7) which is green & white in the Rover grey ISO plug

Hence the black is actually the earth. It can't be otherwise can it?

OK then I haven't the faintest clue to find it out in the Erisin menus... :mad:

The Erisin has an app installed to set up SWC so it is not in a menu. I would have to look at the Erisin how the app is named but it is raining cats and dogs now so I will probably not be able to look at it unitl tomorrow. Will post back (hopefully with a photo :))

It would be natural to assume that way since that would mean following the standard. Unfortunately in my experience with electrics I came across such mess that I do not assume anything and I like to double check everything.
I am sorry that I am not closer to you because we would sort this in no time.

But as said this is just connecting wires. You still need to pair SWC with Erisin.

If I am not mistaken application name is Wheelkey Study.

You're a star ! But keep you dry and warm...:D

Stunning you are buddie ! :clap:
I'll have a look tomorrow.

Just to end the day on a better impression... ;)
Nevertheless it works and no more screens and cables making ugly a so lovely dash... :D:drool4:
EDIT: I've put the external microphone just above the Erisin as you can see.

YESSSS!!! SORTED!

Today was another day because yesterday as you noticed I was mid depressed mid angry... But all is forgotten now.

But the story isn't that short...

1. I rummaged through the web for that magic wand: absolutely no app named "wheel key study" or something close. :o

2. Then I've had a close look on YouTube with that string and I watched a few rather interesting videos showing to look among menus and Android parameters.
Then I discovered that the item was deactivated from factory. I activated it.

3. Next step was to use the menu allowing the buttons to be recognized. As you know my left button was rebooting the Erisin when pushed on. Hence I tried to activate it when pulling it. And IT WORKS proving that my "+" connection with white wires was right! I decided it was "volume -".

4. Then what do do to get "volume +". I tried the right button (remembering I'd never used any button but the left one only in 5 years) and decided that pulling it in the same guise as the left one it'll be "volume +". And IT WORKS!
I must confess that I'm not that bad to get around a problem: I've done that several times... :D
The only thing I should keep in mind is not to push the left button!
Anyway I'm 200% sure I connected it to the #8 (earth) of the grey plug.
In case some chaps in the future intend to use those good Erisins they shoud keep in mind to get another earth elsewhere unless the connection to a ground wire is to be avoided. I don't know, I'm no electronic engineer...

So all is well that ends well and I'm deeply relieved not to have to take out all that big lump of wires and loom for I'm doubtful I'll be able to do it once more.
Now I can screw on the Erisin and the sun visor I'd left unscrewed just in case.

Last step maybe: install Agama which looks very tempting.
But I've got a question for you Sjonnie: is it possible to go back to the factory launcher ? Just in case... I'm cautious. ;)

EDIT: Oops! I'd forgotten... A VERY BIG THANK YOU to all of you who kindly helped me in my sometimes distressing moments! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Yes, you can get back to the factory launcher! Either by quitting the Agama app or uninstall it. But I am going to assure you, you won't :D


I for one was glad to be of service getting your Erisin up and running. It is a beautiful peace of kit :)

The last thing i'd forgotten to tell :

Finally it looks the battery isn't drained as l'd feared in the first place. When I went back to the car in the afternoon the Noco Genius charger lamp was green.
It's just because the Erisin is glutton and that I'm working a while engine off. Phew!

Glad that everything is working now.

Just to enlighten the matter a little for someone in the future, the Erisin final wheel key study table is very close to this one.
But nowhere you'll find a button to reset the radio but in my car: UNIQUE! :laughing2:

Agama looks pretty and easy but the best bit I bet you know which it is ! :D

Yes i do :) They should have an MK1 version of the logo as well ;)


You can rearrange apps and customize the icons by just pressing them for e few seconds. Experiment! You'll love it :bigsmile:

I bet I haven't yet found out all that Agama has to offer.
I rummaged a good while to discover how to group several icons in the middle for each category!

BTW I've modified my SWC - easy peasy now - and put vol + & vol - on the same button the closest to the center. More logical. And I managed with the left one - pulled but never pushed! - to get a circular menu offering every device connected so to open Waze or Radio on one click.

But that very weird reboot from the genuine "vol -" is amazing and I can't explain why such an oddity, because had my negative black wire been wrong every button should have been in deep trouble (malfunctioning or doing nothing), which obviously it isn't the case. So what? :confused::confused::confused:

Volume - is the only button without any resistance, meaning resistance is 0 ohms. That means you short connected KEY 1(2) white wire from Erisin to Ground (Earth) of Erisin. It seems when you ground KEY wire Erisin reboots.

I do not know what other users of Erisin did and do they have the same result.

I do understand your first sentence but the second in my mind is unclear: I'm neither electrician nor mechanic as you know, sorry chap.

Anyway I took every precaution:
- both missing pins I added in the grey plug was glued when going out of the plug to Erisin to keep them tight in place and avoid any kind of contact or shortcut.
- the shorter dark purple wire (-) was tightly soldered to the other black wire within the bigger BMW female plug where wires are spaced out, so no chance of a bad contact or a short cut.
- the longer white wire (+) was connected to the similar one going from Erisin thanks to a small similar & compliant white plug you can see on my picture. Glued as well at the back to avoid any move or undesirable contact.
- I'd forgotten: both grey plugs and brown plugs (connecting my BMW loom to the existing Rover wires) were tightly fastened by pair with a plastic string because I'd noticed that plugs tended to disjoin too easily when inadvertently pulled out from one another.

I did my best even I'm not at all learned in that matter. A bit disappointed though but 4 positions out of 5 being OK, it's not a result to be sniffed at... ;)
Just puzzled by the one that's doesn't want to work right... :shrug:

EDIT: I understand I did missed something but I can't see what. Unless there may be an electric incompatibility of some sort between Rover & Erisin. After all it's a matter of adapting both systems and TBH Erisin has never been intended to fit directly in our MG Rovers. I wish it had been, my job would have been far easier... ;)

What do you think Sjonnie? I assume you hadn't the same issue... Where may I have failed? :shrug:

I am not sure what is going wrong with the Key1 (or2) and ground. Looks like you connected it the right way. Maybe (just maybe) there is a difference in behavior between Key1 and Key2 and I have just been lucky to pick the right one.


I know it's a lot of work but you might consider trying the "other" Key wire and see what happens.

I'm just using now the SWC key2 (right) for the volume and that's it.
The key1 (left) pulled gives me a circular menu.
I don't know what to do with the middle one (the one you may push horizontally only).
But to open once more the Pandora box behind? No way! :D
Mind that I worked upon the Rover ISO plugs only. I don't want to go ahead and I cannot because the loom looks stuck behind. I cannot even gain a millimeter when pulling it and I can't see a jot in that hole. Not doable for me at least.
Both volumes are working fine at the wheel and I've even got a menu I hadn't before.
My lovely and wise grandma Davis used to tell me that the best is the enemy of the good. ;)
It's obvious she was right for she lived as far as the grand age of 103! :p:

Sorry! My bad:getmecoat:


I meant the wires from the Erisin loom marked Key1 of Key2. So not the buttons of the SWC ;)

You've got 2 SWC wires behind your Erisin ???
I have got one wire only coming from my Erisin, the white wire which looks to be a +.
It's obvious the little black plug at the end of that SWC white wire could have accepted a second one but there isn't unfortunately. That's why following the wise explanations of Roverlike I connected my - wire to an earth.
I can't see any other one coming from my Android.
I was robbed ! :mad:
It's not the end of the world after all. I'm happy anyway. :D

Look at the wiring diagram in one of your previous photos. You should have two wires in the Erisin loom. Key1 and Key2.

I can't find out the wiring diagram you're talking about.
But I'm pretty sure that there wasn't any number on the label "SWC" of my white wire and I haven't butchered anything but the loom I didn't need, so everything had been kept in place in the loom I've used.

In the opposite case I would have looked for the other SWC one, you must be 100% sure, but there wasn't any.

There was indeed another similar white wire (without any label!) but in my notice it reads that one shouldn't connect anything to that one. Sorry it's now too dark and cold but I'll have a look tomorrow on the leaflet and on the box I've kept.

I mean this diagram:


https://i.postimg.cc/7b6609cp/IMG-20...28-resized.jpg

Now I do understand better what you called KEY1 and KEY2.
Unfortunately that even deepen the mystery in my mind at least.

https://i.postimg.cc/L4k1d0V6/IMG-20...28-resized.jpg

First the only wire available (= not connected to anything with its bare little plug) and labelled "SWC" on my Erisin is white!
Those Keys 1&2 (I'm unsure about the meaning "key") are brown.
That doesn't match then.

There are 2 white wires in the diagram: FL+ (?) and CAN- (Canbus?).
I haven't still my loom in front of me now, but I assume the white wire I connected as a + one may be (or should be?) the FL+ in the diagram.
And I assume I spliced my - wire with the black wire (#15) which reads "ground".

As I haven't cut anything in the BMW loom provided, and as there were 3 pins missing in the grey plug (1,2,3, both 2 & 3 being mandatory to make it work), I assume that nothing had been connected regarding the SWC and that the work was to be done to comply with the Rover 75 diagram.
Hence I assume that I hadn't to cut any of the wires attributed in the Erisin plug and connected within the loom provided.

Had my "white connection" been wrong no button should work in my car, or 1 and a half of them at least are working which may be considered as an evidence. Vol+in button #1 and button #3 are working fine.
The only mistake I could have done may be connecting my SWC- to the ground wire (but which should have been the right one then?)... But the "SWC" label of the non attributed white wire may be an evidence that it was the right +.

TBH I put my trust in the labels and the colour of the wires rather than in the diagram. I'm not at all skillful enough to master the question so at my modest level I only tried to think logical thanks to the precious bits of information you & Roverlike gave me. I'm pragmatic and all that matters is what I see with my ageing sight and what I understand with my poor brains... :shrug:

Anyway I'm happy with the result: I've gone at my mechanic's today (for winter tyres & passenger electric seat half functioning) and that circular menu and new volume button fully working were a heavenly grace! :p:

Regarding Torque Pro is anybody able to connect Erisin to it?
In my 75 it seems that my ELM327 plugged in OBD2 and easy to connect with my phone, cannot even be detected by Erisin!
Any clue?
Thanks a lot.

BTW the very useful circular menu I've paired with my SWC left button (the one normally allotted to both volumes) is located in the middle of the panel (the one with an horizontal U turn).

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk//fo...9&d=1664350501

Hello Sjonnie!
I'm still puzzled with Erisin, Torque Pro and ELM327.

It looks that Erisin isn't able to recognize any ELM327, or to be more accurate doesn't recognize any Bluetooth device but the phone.
I've tried several similar softwares as Torque Pro, but the answer is each time the same and it looks that Bluetooth isn't available at all in Erisin configuration.
When I click on the Bluetooth symbol at the bottom of Agama screen, it tells that Bluetooth isn't set up! ??? :shrug:
Worse: I can't find out where are the Bluetooth parameters!
Do you know where they are?
Thanks.

You can find the paired devices in the Bluetooth app under the icon with the telephone and the three dashes. See below picture:


https://i.postimg.cc/YvxQf99q/IMG-20221019-175202.jpg


I do believe you can indeed only have one BT device coupled to the radio. Bit of a bummer but I can live with it ;)

Thank you Sjonnie.
It hadn't come to my mind that I had to go to the phone app to gain access to the Bluetooth configuration... A bit illogical at least for me. It should be in the general settings menu like Wifi, USB, 4G and the like, as on my phone.

Anyway I succeeded pairing my ELM327 (mine, not the Erisin one, not tested) at last with Torque app from the Erisin, first putting aside and far my Android phone to avoid perturbations.
Then I got the phone connected via USB and I fought a little because as soon as the Erisin detects the phone there's the app (don't remember its name, but it's something resembling to the Android car play) that appears on the screen. I switched it off.
Then I split the screen and managed to get the screen as you can see below.
Then I phoned at home and it worked, at last I managed to get the screen split as in the first place.

Hence it's possible to have both devices paired at the same time: phone and ELM327.

You know I feel rather frustrated when something is wrong or not working in my cars... And IMHO it looks handy to get on display a few statistics like temperatures (mainly the coolant one!), voltage (in case the alternator may become faulty) and consumption (for a more efficient drive whenever possible). Mind nevertheless I don't want either to be enslaved by stats but I'm very willing to know what happens under the bonnet from time to time, without taking my eyes off the road of course!

EDIT: don't be amazed by the intake temperature: it's the resistor that is tricking and cheating to allow E85 to work a treat!
Actually as you may guess it's rather warm here, 27° in the afternoon!

To be perfectly clear I want a split screen with:
- Waze (GPS) on display on the left part
- Torque on display on the right part
- Music (my random play list on the 32Go memory stick recorded in the best quality) playing on the background

I must say it's not easy to get at once and it takes several minutes including the OBDII pairing, not to mention that bl..dy app that is bursting into the game as soon as my phone is detected with or without USB connection.

What is weird is I switch off Erisin (pushing on the left button) before turning the key on the 0 position. But when I come back in the car and as soon as I turn the key on the first position, Erisin switched on itself at once without any use of the on/off button! :duh:

Here are some better and larger pics. But don't be horrified by the appaling consumption because I remained stand still while the engine was turning: it will regulate as soon as I make a good trip. Mind the average consumption in 5 years is 12.5L or 22.6 mpg of full E85 (0.7 € /L).

I'm not surprised Sjonnie my figures went out of the window: Torque parameters were shambolic with miles instead of km and Petrol instead of E85! :laughing2:

Hi all, thought I'd jump in the party, even though everybody's gone home and there's just a pile of empty beer cans and overflowing ashtrays... Arnaud, I think you sent me a link to this thread before, but somehow I missed it. I've just read through all of it, and brother I feel your pain :duh:


I know I'm repeating a bit of what I said in my own threads, but I'm guessing Jan hasn't read them - have you guys swapped your red and yellow 12V wires to avoid losing stuff then you switch off, and the 45-second boot every time you put your key in the ignition? Or is there some other way? I'm reluctant to do the swap, because of battery drain :eek:


And did anybody have a problem with the display flickering when it's dimmed by turning the headlights on?


Thanks
Roger :D

Hello Roger, I'm trying to answer your questions as far as I'm concerned.


1. First of all which Erisin did you order? It may be of interest because there may be slight differences from one to another.
Mine is ES8788B and here it is:
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...AC_SL1200_.jpg


2. As I've told I didn't want to butcher anything and I wanted it as plug and play as possible.
So as some items were not included in the kit, I'd to order a) an external microphone, b) an extra aerial cable because I found the Rover one too short to give me enough room for manoeuvre and above all c) an ISO cable adapter for BMW E30 E36 E46 E34 E39 E32 E38 E31 X5 Mini like this one (the big plug connected to the Erisin and the two smaller ones to the genuine Rover loom found behind the dash):
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/G0cAA...GR/s-l1600.jpg



And that's nearly all but the two extra wires I'd to add to the loom to connect to the SWC as I've described above, which was a PITA job.


3. Result:
- in contrast to what you're experiencing not only I haven't to wait 45 sec every time I put and turn the key in the barrel but my Erisin is switching on at once without a second of delay! Which is puzzling because as we have both a button on/off I thought I had to switch on the button to get the Erisin working, given that every time before switching off the ignition I switch off the radio. Anyway I do not bother with that oddity.

- I'm not losing any parameter but I can confirm that the first frequency remains stubbornly the 87.50 one. All the other stations are still stored. I can live with that. But TBH I'm not using the radios, only my musical playlist thanks to a memory stick you can insert in front of you in the middle.

- no display flickering while turning on the headlights. I'm dubious there can be any connection with the fitting of the Erisin, except if your battery is on its end or a bit light. What I can tell you actually is that Erisin is rather hungry and that it sucks well the power if your engine isn't switched on and alternator not working.

That's all for now folks! ;)

Hi Arnaud, thanks so much for your observations :bowdown:

Oh, there may indeed! Mine is an ES2746B.
Luckily, having spent a couple of weeks on it now, I’ve figured out every wire and connector :D

I’m lucky with the SWC wiring, as I already have an adapter in the loom which breaks these out, for my previous stereo.
It simply means your unit has constant +12V connected to it, and idea which I’m toying with… only problem is, it will run your battery down in a week or so, even when you’ve turned it “off” with the little button.

Yes, that’s the case with mine too – and the RDS resets itself too. But I guess not many people use the radio – only me because I’m VERY old.
Battery’s good. As you say, it will use a fair bit of power if constantly powered up. I suspect a firmware problem with my unit :shrug:

As my battery is permanently controlled by a Noco Genius charger (my 75 is garaged when not out), I can tell you that the Erisin isn't draining it. The light remains green except when the battery is naturally recharged which doesn't happen more often than when the Erisin wasn't yet fitted.
The radio is only switched on automatically when I put the key in the barrel in 1st position.
So no fear to run the battery in a few days, even if no charger is connected.

As we're going to spend a week holidays a bit further South, I decidd to take it easy with my Erisin.
I've asked it a bit too much work until today: split the screen between the GPS Waze and Torque Pro and icing on the cake playing my list in the background.
So the poor double din was struggling to do all three tasks together, the first two being very very demanding: every second so many simultaneous operations that there was sometimes some delay to show the actual speed for example.
Thus let's be simple: the Erisin will play music (or radio) and display the GPS route and that's it. Back to my phone to display Torque Pro.

Still running a wince in my 260, with rear camera connected via a WiFi tx& rx

My Win CE with reverse camera is also still earning its keep in my '75 :}. Maps are way out o date now, but they do the job well enough.

Cliff

Another advocate Win CE here. Had it on my Xtrons DD for 4-5 years now without issue.