Help polishing xenons
 

Hi have been using a sealy kit and did the sand paper and polishing compound but should I still have cloudy lenses at this point, if I wet them they go clear

Need to go fine and fine until you use the compound. And put a little weight into it.

I did this the other day funnily enough. Went overboard to be honest, but had the paper so used it from 400 grit through to 2500 via 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 (theres no need for this many, but I had the paper and the time lol). Then used poor boys SSR compounds from 3 through to 1.

Have only used auto finesse tough coat as a sealant, but really needs something more permanent - a clear UV protected lacquer, suitable for plastics and a little heat.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ab31a6f35a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...97e038cf56.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bd239dd727.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6a38b4f5f9.jpg

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I did the 3 stages of sand paper ending up with 2000 and the the cutting compound, but mine look like roughly like your first pic, on your 3rd pic at what stage was that the clear light

the compound, what did you use to apply it? - by hand wouldnt get the compound warm enough to break it down and do its thing.

Watched a video of the sealey kit being used, and it doesnt appear to be very good, and only when he applies the sealant, does it become clear (video LINK here)

Years ago I used a cheap non branded kit (identical to the sealey kit - except with a plastic spigot on the drill mount), but it was better than the results on the video.

The use of abrasives for this job means following each grade with a finer one, but not too fine. You can't remove the scratches and roughness made by a 1000 grade (for example) using a 2000 grade. They are too different and it will take forever when grade steps are wide. The kits sold for doing it contain a sufficiently wide spread of grades that with a reasonable amount of effort, the finest abrasive will provide a surface that will take a polish using the cerium oxide or paste type of thing. Never miss out a grade to make the job quicker because it won't work. Nothing below a 2000 grade or finer will provide a surface that will polish to a totally clear finish.

TC (Ex parabolic mirror maker)

Okay so I would say the sealy polish is rubbish, got my da out and used some compounds and they came up clear after the first pass, so now I know, it’s time for a cuppa than a few more passes with finer compounds.
Thanks everyone for the help

Used the spigot and drill mount with the Velcro sponge

Did mine yesterday using "headlight restore" from usa. Dandy Tech. Came up as new, now used it on both cars and really pleased with the results.

I used the Sealey headlight restoration kit, and my lights came out great and they are still the same now after 14 months, trick is keep the lights wet at all times & use the clear protective that comes with it.

The protective must only be added once the lights are completely dry, and in an area where no dust can attach to the protective once it as been applied, apply it by strokes one each time and never go back over it as it will drag otherwise, it needs at least 24/48 hours to dry, give it as long as you can is best procedure but no less than 24/48hrs

I believe I am right in stating that all this rubbing down and polishing hard work will be in vain unless the plastic is refinished with a suitable clearcoat to prevent further degradation of the plastic surface.