Pre-assembled the subframe, arms and anti roll bar and put this lot back on today
Attachment 52438

It now has new springs, new roll bar bushes, new rear drop links, and is now just waiting to go up on the ramps to torque everything up.

All new bolts and failsafe washers used. Will be putting new brake disks and pads as well, then hopefully will be ok for the MOT in a couple of weeks.

That is as good as new then David. Looks great. :bowdown:

I have spare front and rear subframes in the garage so might go down the same route when I get a bit of spare time. :D

This time i used standard hex head nuts on the inboard arm bolts, so needed to assemble them before putting it back on, but i have a 3" stubby spanner that will fit in the slot on top of the subframe with it back on the car so i can torque them up that last bit with the wheels on the ramps.

It is a bit heavy to manipulate back with all the bits on, but 2 trolley jacks helped guide it in to place and the long fixing bolts helped, once the first one was back in it was easy.

Still have to repair the heat shields, as the bolts have all pulled through so while i have the exhaust off will be a good time to fit them back with big penny washers and some stainless bolts. I will also derust and paint up the bracing bars in on the tunnel. Broke the back of the job now, its been sat there for 3 weeks with its back end off so will be good to see it back on its wheels.

Not too happy with the looks of the fuel tank straps. But they will have to wait until after the MOT

Rear subframe, upper and lower arms, springs, discs shoes and pads, all refitted today.

My short stubby 18mm spanner that i bought from ellesmere market in a set of 10 for a fiver solved the trouble with spinning captive nuts. There is just room for it to go in from the top of the subframe while you torque up the inboard bolts, and use a proper hex nut instead of those silly round ones.

I bought new handbrake shoes from pagid, and new discs from mtek. Found them a bit tight to get the drum over the shoes, but they did go on. I am expecting to take the first test drive in over a month tomorrow so fingers crossed there will be no knocks or rattles.

The rear wheel arch liners were also removed, and the arches painted, then sprayed with underbody hardwax. Its looking like a new car underneath again. It will be good to see it with its wheels back on.

Arctic.

I think it was your or Brian that have had success with this useless nuts and even more useless cages bolted to the subframe.

You fellas just liberally soaked with Plusgas for hours/days beforehand?

Ive fallen victim to these before, and I don't want to fall victim again.

Im aware they are nyloc, so applying heat is a no-no. Even if you had the hands of a squirrel or some other magnetic and bendy tools, Im pretty sure there isnt enough space to push the nuts up and out and replace them.

Nope l had this happen to me the other day l had to change the rear subframe in the rain not fun l put some photos up of it later

David - how did you get the proper hex nut in? Surely the stupid welded slot /cage contraption is in the way and stops the spinning round nut from being removed.

PS. The welded slot /cage idea would have been ok if they'd made it from heavier gauge steel, instead of bendable lightweight stuff.

I got it in with the subframe off the car. I loosely assembled everything off the car then raised the whole lot up to the car afterwards. I used the stubby spanner just at the end to hold the nut while torquing up.

What about the cage thing though - wasn't that still in the way?

No because it had sheared off. I think there were a few places where it was still stuck on but from memory I believe i was able to knock them off with a large screwdriver.