Screen wash not working properly
 

I've read back over the many threads on here about the screen wash filter getting clogged with organic gunk, and I'm wondering whether that is what is happening here (it's happened before but symptoms weren't exactly the same).

I'm getting nothing out of the jets when I pull the wiper stalk. In the past I've effected a temporary fix by using something like a bicycle pump to blow back down the pipe into the reservoir, so I've tried that again and it allows me to get 3 or 4 squirts out of the washers, of decreasing intensity, then nothing. In the past when I've done this, I've normally got a few months grace as a result, so I'm a bit puzzled that it is not working for me this time.

There was clearly a problem with the screenwash for my MOT, which caused the garage to replace the pump (probably unnecessarily). But judging from the smell when I've used the bicycle pump trick, they didn't empty and clean the reservoir or filter.

I think I may have to face the dauntingly smelly task of doing this myself, if I can work out how to do it. I understand I need to remove the front wheel lining on the driver's side to access it, but it's not immediately apparent to me how to do this. Do I need to remove the wheel to do so, or can I do it just by turning the wheel as far I can in one direction (in which case, which direction)? If this at all a tricky job, I'll hand it off to a garage but if it's simple enough that even a mechanical idiot can do it, I'll give it a go.

Hello John,

I'd recommend taking off the wheel for access and visibility. The wheel arch liner is secured mainly with plastic devices called a Scrivet. Unscrew the Posidriv head gently then carefully lever out the shoulder which has two tentacles on it. There are some other fixings too; a Haynes manual is useful to find these.

I'd definitely have a go yourself John. :}

Simon

:iagree::wot::smilie_re:

Do it now.--:D

That could be a contradiction in terms bearing in mind they put a new pump on and don't appear to have solved the problem.

Take the moulded trim off, the one that is screwed beneath the bottle and using a torch have a good look to see if there is obviously any crud in there.

You may be able to get the pump off, then use a bottle of clean water "plumb" them together to test the system.

Is the pump running when you operate the switch? If so turn wheels into full left lock move wheel arch liner aside undo screw half way up you will see pump on side of bottle lift vertically till bottom of pump out of filter then pull from clip leave wire and pipe attached, pickle black filter from bottle wash out flush tank and refit, Should take you about 15 minutes

Dave

Hi John.
If you are up for the job and you want to cleanout the washer bottle properly, then remove the front bumper which takes about 20 minutes, you will then have complete access to the washer bottle.

You can then go from there, but do not dis miss the valve under the bonnet covering these can fail or work intermittently this happened to my MGZT the fix remove the valve and replace with a T joint never had ant trouble after that.

Could be the little filter in the bottle.
https://i.imgur.com/sECgagdl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/1A1EmZAl.jpg2

Remove and clean under the warm tap.
https://i.imgur.com/KqxCqxOl.jpg3

As i say above could be valve.
https://i.imgur.com/xUiQfnzl.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/ruaUTLll.jpg5

Replace with one of these Tor a Y will do.
https://i.imgur.com/QIxX8B5l.jpg6

You have tried the bike pump test.
https://i.imgur.com/2vWe7gjl.jpg7

https://i.imgur.com/cORRZS0l.jpg8

can the washer jets be removed from the pipe at the bonnet and then a check be done to see if screen wash flows freely and with some force out of the pipes?
The jets may be blocked

macafee2

Arctic, I'm assuming that the problem is at the pump or reservoir, rather than the valve near the jets, or the jets themselves. I detached the pipe where it meets the T and put it in a bucket and tested it, and nothing came out into the bucket, until I had put a blast of air down the pipe with the bicycle pump.

Also, the jets themselves don't appear to be blocked - I was able to blow a little air through them with the same bicycle pump technique.

The gunk settles at the bottom of the reservoir and blocks the filter on the pump pick up.

Either remove the bumper or use the "keyhole" method easing the wheel arch liner out of the way. Pull the pump off the reservoir and pull the filter (doubles as a grommet for the pump inlet) out. Clean the filter with hot soapy water, rinse thoroughly. Make up a mild solution of bleach and hand hot water, place a basin under the pump outlet, pour the bleach solution in the reservoir filler. Repeat that a couple of times then rinse the reservoir thoroughly with a hose in the filler. Replace the filter/grommet, replace the pump and refill the reservoir.

I have done the same as you with the pump blowing the blockage back into the bottle a couple of times.
First time lasted a while, second time only a day or two.
So I thought right I'll take the bumper off(I'd sooner do that than mess about in the wheel arch, only because I've taken the bumper off a few times so it's easy).

Anyway I took the pump out and retrieved the filter to clean but being a bit silly I bunged the bottle up instead of letting it empty and I didn't clean it.
I cleaned the filter and put it back and had great washer jets but again only for a few days.
I could not be bothered taking it to bits again so I put about an egg cup full of bleach in the bottle.
Left it for a few days and I now have functioning washer jets but unfortunately I'm now a bit paranoid about the bleach damaging the rubber, plastic or paint on the car.
I've taken to pouring clean water from a bottle over my screen if I have used the screen washers.

I'm wondering if someone with chemical knowledge can tell me if the bleach stays active. Maybe I'll get round to watering it down or flushing it out.

Anyway, don't forget to clean the bottle so you don't waste your time like I did.