Jacking Points rust
 

Part of regular overhaul on my cars is to check out the jacking points - rubber covers off and use an endescope to peek inside. On this weeks target car three were fine - rubber had dropped off one and loads of mud removed but metal fine. Rear passenger one , however , quite rusty and I removed layers of rust like thick corn flakes. I will finally treat with a rust converter then Epoxy resin and finally loads of Dinitrol wax etc . Question is - where did the water come from that caused this damage. I was wondering if entry is possible through lug holes holding the chrome finisher above the wheel arch ( this was where water came from that flooded boot on another of my 75's. Anyone any ideas because I would like to stop this at source. I have , by the way , already treated the grips at bottom of the rear windows as per excellent 'How to' from this great club.

There's a few drainholes along the sills, but the main source of corrosion is just in front of the rear wheel inside the sill, behind the liner. It's a water trap.:o Cleaned loads of crud from behind mine, had to rub it down & repaint:cool:

Will certainly look
 

Thanks for that , I'll get straight to taking a look in the morning. The drain holes I have found and they look like a good way to get in and spray protective wax - the other way is to remove the sill finishers , the grip holes give direct entry and I've used this means of access to spray into this cavity on another car. To stop any water entry here , I have now used silicone Sealant on the grip holes and then all down the whole length of each Chrome sill finisher!

Same problem with rust at bottom of rear wheel arch and sill on the copperleaf one. Local body shop are going to cut it out and weld new in, says it is too far gone and will crumble if he tries to repair it. Booked in for 30th June, together with some paintwork.

Cost ?
 

Any idea how much that is going to cost. Don't think I need it yet but having seen how well repairs can be done I would certainly consider this because these cars are so good. It's not a 'scrap car' item - quite sure the cost would be well below that of finding another car of such quality/luxury as a 75. Keep them going is what I say!

I paid £100 a side by a classic car panel beater called Tom Hobbs. You wont find better for the price. Im on a new phone and dont have photos but there is a thread on here somewhere.

I've got rust at the top of the rear wheel arch both sides. Been to the body shop. Same as you. Cut it out and weld new piece in. Worth getting in done properly.

Photos ?
 

Guess that the url http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ine=1408286373 may be relevant photo you put up but just blank on my PC - would like to see. Thanks for the observation however.

That's what I had done, he's just done one worse for a chap on the Facebook page where the rot was on the arch, and on the inside under the wheel liner all for the same price. Top bloke.

Great
 

Thanks for that and it's quite encouraging. I agree , obviously an excellent chap.