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-   -   New project - HGF to be resolved - advice? (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=308680)

beinet1 19th October 2020 05:26

New project - HGF to be resolved - advice?
 
Hi all,

As Somebody may have noticed, I have been drawn into temptation av bought another project, despite I promised myself to never buy another K-engine powered object after i sold my 1.8 Tourer nearly 4 years ago: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=308554

To cut everything short, I have taken the cylinder head of. Engine full off hell-mans mayonnaise. Seems like it was on its original HG. Cylinder head never skimmed (119mm). Deep indents in cylinder head, so this one is probably cooked to scrap. Not easy to get a accurate measurement of the liner stand proud, but they seems to be close to 0.001"(0.025mm) above the block deck. The cylinder head has deep fire-ring indentations, so its considered as scrap. Looking through the cars documentation, the car was diagnosed with HGF by the previous owners garage for two years ago. Not repaired. The car as done approx 1000miles since that and probably cooked the cylinder head :D

I have two other cylinder heads on the bench, both removed from running engines. Both have some minor indents from the fire rings, but I guess this is normal. no.1 had an MLS gasket fitted and is over-skimmed down to 118mm. The other one had an elastomer gasket fitted together with a 0,5mm head saver shim. Its height is 118,4mm.

None of the cylinder heads will take an N-series gasket I assume. I will favour a solution where a head saver shim is used as it will compensate for the over-skimming done and is also forgiving to other cylinder head issues. I will not use a "wellseal" fitted shim, so then it all ends up with the MLS alternative.

At the moment, I think a reasonable solution is to raise the cylinder liners with liner shims so the stand proud is 0.004"-0.005" and fit everything together with a premium MLS gasket (Victor Reinz) and uprated oil rail. I am not sure if the higher tensile bolts is needed, or new ones at all?

Any comments/Advice is greatly welcome

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aa316d3590.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aa32babe0f.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aa33d77a24.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aa38b20797.jpg

Cylinder head removed from car:
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aa2650632c.jpg

Spare cylinder head no.1:
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d23134a63c.jpg

Spare cylinder head no.2:
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d231f916e5.jpg

gnu 19th October 2020 11:28

Nasty looking mayo - dark as well! I guess it depends how much time you have for the project and whether you need the car on the road. You could clean up your best head and fit an elastomer gasket and see how it goes. If you've got loads of time then raise the liners, skim if required and go for the premium gasket/ oil rail solution with new bolts.

beinet1 19th October 2020 12:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by gnu (Post 2843170)
Nasty looking mayo - dark as well! I guess it depends how much time you have for the project and whether you need the car on the road. You could clean up your best head and fit an elastomer gasket and see how it goes. If you've got loads of time then raise the liners, skim if required and go for the premium gasket/ oil rail solution with new bolts.

Not in a hurry. I have basically decided the solution, so have already ordered most parts from DMGRS. Premium MLS gasket, but put an elastomer in the shopping basket to. Had to order the liner shims from Rimmers.

I guess its time to take most things apart and clean up while waiting for the mailman. A valve job is also planned to do.

rrobson 19th October 2020 12:54

I’d be doing a complete tear down on that, including the measurement and inspection of big ends, piston inspection and clean and removal of liners, they’re likely past it. Then a thorough cooling system clean!

beinet1 20th October 2020 06:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrobson (Post 2843200)
I’d be doing a complete tear down on that, including the measurement and inspection of big ends, piston inspection and clean and removal of liners, they’re likely past it. Then a thorough cooling system clean!

That`s on the list. It will basically be only the crankshaft that is not removed during this process. As this car is bought for the price of a banger, I will only do a visual inspection on these components and only renew if some excessive wear is found.

My impression is that the bottom end is pretty reliable on these engines.

The whole idea is to get a reasonable running car for minimum cost, but will not do shortcuts and let penny-saving cause failure either :)

beinet1 23rd October 2020 10:22

Not to much done since last post, but always making some tiny progress. Cylinder head no.1 has been put to pieces and cleaned up. Will start the process of lapping in the valves soon. I have also used some time to clean the different components from hellmans mayonnaise. Its a messy and time consuming task. Anybody have some great advice on how to clean this mess out of the intake manifold??
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...2ac9f8ffbf.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...2acb22875b.jpg

Think I will take down the sump this weekend, pull the pistons and liners and start cleaning the bottom end up. I have prepared a diesel bath for the separated components.

Sometimes I take myself beeing seduced by this cars lines. It does fit well in old english white!
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...2acbd5950f.jpg
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...7fb7319592.jpg

At the end, sometimes you wonder if the past is chasing you. This story is pretty similar to my first adventure with these cars which is nearly 10 years ago: https://www.mg-rover.org/threads/thi...advice.406154/

gnu 23rd October 2020 10:42

You’re right - lovely looking car!

Is the bodywork solid and rust free?

Since you are going to put so much time into the engine...

beinet1 23rd October 2020 11:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by gnu (Post 2844002)
You’re right - lovely looking car!

Is the bodywork solid and rust free?

Since you are going to put so much time into the engine...

Time is not a cost.... but don`t want to put to much cost in it ;)

The car was waxoiled in -03 and -06, so the underbody is in a fantastic condition compared to its siblings! Seems like this can be a pretty tidy car when the engine issue has been resolved. A shame that it is a low spec car.

beinet1 23rd October 2020 19:04

There will always be some surprises during tear down. Did remove the thermostat housing for replacing its O-rings. Found this:

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...328d8de2bc.jpg

It have probably contributed for the early stage of HGF

trikey 23rd October 2020 19:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by beinet1 (Post 2844096)
There will always be some surprises during tear down. Did remove the thermostat housing for replacing its O-rings. Found this:

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...328d8de2bc.jpg

It have probably contributed for the early stage of HGF

That damage is quite common believe it or not, fresh orange juice is a good way to remove the horrible stuff from the inlet manifold!


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