Fuel tank removal - How To
 

Has anyone actually removed the fuel tank completely (i.e. not just lowered it)? I'm looking for a How To.

I'm not getting much response in the Technical forum so I thought I'd ask here too.

I've got 2-3 gallons in the tank and I don't want to rip all the pipes/connections off by accidentally dropping it.

never done it, but would recommend draining the fuel (via the cover below the rear seat), simply to make it easier to handle when removing. I dont think I have ever read of anyone having an issue with a tank, even to remove for brake lines (try a forum search for brake lines fuel tank, may give a how to for that with additional info for tank removal).

I cannot find my copy of RAVE to check it out, but get yourself a copy, and it could help you out a lot for such instances as this. I reckon the info you are looking for will be in it. LINK

How do I drain the fuel via the cover under the seat? I don't have anything to pump it out with.

This tank has been taken out before (to fit copper brake pipes) but I didn't do it myself - that's when the hexagon nuts were sheared off the jubilee clips. I don't think these clips are going to come off because there's nothing to turn the worm drive with.

I already have RAVE - this is what is says:

1) Page 549 / Adjustments 19-2-3 - drain tank using a 'fuel recovery appliance'

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...8321d139c9.jpg



2) Page 571 / Repairs 19-2-25 - removing tank

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...829fabf5ce.jpg

That says lower the tank before trying to disconnect any wires or hoses.

You could always syphon the fuel out with just a hose - immerse as much as you can within the tank, place your thumb over the non-submerged end and whip it out quickly, while keeping the other end submerged, into a container placed lower than the tank, it will then self drain (gravity). Sucking it out is not at all pleasant so forget the TV version.

Regards

Consider getting a vacuum.pump. they can also be used to drain oil and other fluids. There are copies of the sealey one available (and likely better lol) for around 25 quid. Most motor.factors sell a siphon hose though for.around a tenner with jiggle valve. That's if you dont fancy the old school.method above.

They mention lowering the tank before un plugging, I imagine to make easier to access them. As I said I haven't done it, so cannot say for sure.

As far as releasing the clips, I would try using a pair pliers, grips or forcing a socket onto it. Failing that, I would cut it off and replace the hose (which i assume you'll be doing)



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I've sucked fuel out of a tank before (not this car) and have usually ended up with a mouthful of petrol. :eek: It can be done without getting a mouthful but you need clear tubing to gauge the right moment to pinch off the tube. I only have 15 inches of clear tubing anyway - it's not long enough so I'll have to try an ordinary hosepipe.

How hard is it to release the fuel filter & fuel pump from the tank (3 & 4 in Rave above)? I've taken the access covers off under the seat and the tops of the filter and pump are covered in dirt & dust - I don't want any of that muck to get inside the tank.

I've got a Sealey TP69 vacuum pump but the safety warning says DO NOT USE FOR PETROL.

Re the clips - a socket is never going to turn them because the hexagon heads aren't there at all (they've sheared off and disappeared). The bit that's left is just cylindrical and they're seized up pretty solid. Even if I cut the hose in two (Stanley knife) I'll still have to get the old clips off the two hose ends before I can put a new hose on.

Ordinary hosepipe should be OK provided it's clean, might take a few attempts but it's the way I completely drain the grandkids' swimming pool.

Avoid removing the pump & filter if at all possible, lots of plumbing, fuel sensors etc. not worth it, the tops might be dirty but when you remove the tank and get it on its side then you can clean the tops.

Not had much problem with old clips even rusty ones, blunt force with an old screwdriver/hammer into the worm drive - they'll surrender.

Regards

Simon,

It seems to me that your project is becoming unnecessarily complicated. Can you remind me why you want to lower the fuel tank? If it is to renew brake pipes, it's a lot easier and perfectly satisfactory to replace the corroded sections only. Pipes across the top of the tank are isolated from rainwater, salt, dirt and impact from stones. They will outlast the car. You don't need to renew them.

Simon

Success
 

Thanks for all the advice chaps but the tank is out now - I lowered it onto a pair of dollies as per post 2 here. The tricky bit was getting past the seat belt anchorages - I'd forgotten to allow for them and had set the block height too high. A quick re-arrangement and it cleared them. :}

Once the tank was down on the dollies and I had better access, I managed to get a pair of grips on the pesky hose clip and it soon surrendered (Hoorah). Then I syphoned about 1.3 gallons out of the right tank using a 20ml syringe to suck fuel into the clear tube and get the flow started. (I'd forgotten I had a spare syringe - I bought them for sucking paint out of POR15 tins. This stops the lid welding itself to the tin!).

Mike - I didn't touch the pump & filter. I took one look at them and thought "No thanks!" :D

Simon - the main reason is to wax above the tank, plus change the perished filler hose. The brake pipes have already been changed (front to back) - that was done a few years ago.

Anyway, the tank is now 'de-vapourising'. I'll give it a good wash tomorrow. Btw, these tanks are heavier than they look, even when empty - and the handle contraption is completely useless.

:}