CDTI Auto More fuel woes
 

Hi, Having a fuel problem with my 2003 CDTI Auto.

About two months ago the car refused to start, i suspected the Under bonnet fuel pump, so i tapped it with a screwderiver, and bingo! the car started, it was like this for a couple of weeks, sometimes it would start, sometimes not, but a little tap on the pump always got it going. So i changed the Pump for a mid priced one and all was good again.

Got up yesterday morning, the car started fine, a quarter of a tank of fuel, drove half a mile to the petrol station, filled up with Diesel, car then refused to start at the pump, called RAC. He plugged in the diagnostic, at first he said it had a high pressure fautl then changed his mind and said a low pressure fault.

He then checked fuses and power to under bonnet pump which were all ok, he said the under bonnet pump was hot!

So...a tow in to my local garage, they fit a new, but cheep and very noisey under bonnet pump.

They phone me to collect the car, the car now starts fine, but drives abismal, no power, and it wont rev above about 2300 RPM.

They are a little stumped, i did mention to them the other, in tank pump.

With the fuel filler cap off, i think it can just be heard but its very quiet. The in tank pump was changed around 4 years ago.

I would be very gratefull for any pointers.

Thanks.

I would buy a pump from Rimmer brothers, far too many bad quality ones out there at the moment.

Some of the new pumps come with clear plastic protectors over the open pipe ends. If one is left on it can jam in the fuel hose and partially block it causing the faults you are experiencing.

I see that you've been on the forum 2 years now and this is your first post. OK up to now then ??

Have you had a look through the---How-To--- section.
Lots of posts in there about both fuel pumps. Problems and cures.--:}

Thanks, i guess its probably either a very poor quality replacment fuel pump, or the mechanic who fitted it has partially blocked the flow by leaving the protective cap on, this seems unlikely.
Though it dosent explain why the pump i purchased from DMGR only lasted 8 weeks and according to the RAC man was getting very hot, perhaps the fuel filter is blocked.
Thanks anyway.

Thankyou, turns out you are spot on the money.

Just had a call from the garage, all sorted, now pulling like a steam train...

Blocked fuel filter.
142k miles, but still sweet.

Thanks all.

I wonder if your original fuel pump was okay? after all a blocked fuel filter may have caused the breakdown.


Might be worth asking if the garage have the old pump, especially if the new one is noisy.

Strange that the MIL didn't light up - it should with a blocked fuel filter. Any blockage further down wouldn't affect the UBP as the differential pressure valve would open, but that sits after the filter. :getmecoat:

Then you need to contact them as they have a warranty on the pump for 12 months i think?:shrug:

Oh I spoke too soon, the car was great after the new fuel pump and new fuel filter, the feel good factor lasted about 30 miles, than the engine lost power and refused to rev above around 2500RPM, even in neutral. I decided to take it for a blast on the motorway, that was a mistake, at times car struggled to reach 50mph.
So limped it back to garage, back seat out to check in tank pump, it seems to be pumping fuel across the fuel tank.
Back to square one.

Needs to be put on T4 if you was down here in Kent I’d do it for you, have you checked the fuel rail pressure sensor and plug? Does it trigger the MIL light at any point?
Mick

Nip across to see big russ, I doubt the in tank pump will cause issue, I ran for over a year with a dead one and never lost any power.


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Hi, No warning lights, I will speak to the mechanic about the fuel rail pressure sensor and plug.

Thanks.

If there is more than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, the car will run fine irrespective of the ITP operation.


I would take the advice of visiting Big Russ, I struggled with a few niggles on my own car, until I was introduced to John at MGR Auto services at Blaydon.


He was kind enough to show me what was happening in real time with his T4 diagnostic machine, and better still explain what was causing the problem on my car.


I had tried other scan tools myself, but these were nothing compared to the Rover main dealer kit.


It will save lots of time/money in misdiagnosis by the garage you are using at the moment I'm sure.


Alf

Not a good test - far better to remove the cover over the passenger side rear seat, disconnect the outlet pipe, fit another bit of pipe with the other end in a jar, unplug the UBP and then with key to position II check the flow out of the pipe.

You should get a steady flow of fuel with no entrapped air. Next plug the pipe back in, disconnect the inlet to the UBP (ie the other end of the same pipe) and do the same test. You should get the same flow rate - if you don't then you have a partially blocked pipe - the end protector I was going on about earlier could be a possible cause.

If that checks out then connect that pipe, plug the UBP back in, disconnect the outlet pipe where it enters the fuel filter and place in a jar and test again. You should get a far stronger flow of fuel again with no entrapped air.








.

This is my 3rd Rover 75 in a row, and by far the best one I have owned, top spec, gold, sandstone leather, cruise, electric memory seats, electric sunblind auto mirrors, wipers. Serpent alloys. Wood steering wheel lovingley cared for for 6 years, no rust very clean inside, but I think it's time to say good bye.
If i had a garage I would take it off road and store it.
But I don't .

Ahhh a sad day foe me.
.

Well you aren't going to get much for it with it running like it is. Why not do the simple tests I suggested, post up the results and we can go from there? :shrug:

Or as you have been advised, send a message to Big Russ and stop messing about with a garage who knows nothing, and have it fixed by someone who knows what they are doing ;)


Not a sad day at all, just time to make a decision as to whether you want to keep the car I'd say :cool::cool:


One of the best things I'd say about this forum is just about every single fault or problem has been experienced by someone or other, and even if you don't have the answer, there will be someone who does.


If you are serious about keeping your car, contact Russ HERE




Alf

I got a bad pump from DMGR sent it back and bought a more expensive pump being running great, the DMGR pump was so noisy i could hear it sitting in the car.
Had a problem with a thermostat supplied by them, they replaced it, but i had to pay for it to be fitted,
Have spent a lot with them to be fair these are the only two failures.

Yep was me glad its still going as it was a cheep ebay one brought before I was up to speed on the proper one.

Only brough because at the first nano I went to the UBP was commented on as being noisy that was 7 yrs and 65000 miles ago !

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