Hi Simon.
Would this be of any use to you for releasing the connector ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Push-in-F...e/111562381168

Released mine today with a pair of long nose pliers, no problem. They are a tight fit to connect back up again mind, and need to be aligned accurately before they will lock together.

I'm not sure Steve - it might. The diameter between the ribs of the gold connector is 16.5mm. The fleabay tool says 'fits pipe from 4 to 14mm' so it would need widening.

Here's another one for 14-16mm. If you look closely you can see blade marks on the LH end so I think it's one of these cut in two! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAWzIAbutqM

Holley sell this black plastic one for $5.20 - see 050ERL.
Note the video (1min 39 sec onward) shows their black QR connector and a gold female half similar to our yellow half. What are the chances of their connector being 16.5mm diameter too.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6d5cebb5d1.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...80f1e9b409.jpg

PS. Steve, I notice in the video they're using flexible braided pipe. I wonder if it would fit the metal Tazu master cylinder (STC100146T) instead of using the rigid copper pipe supplied.

I like the look of the Tazu but I don't like the copper pipe - I think it'll be a nightmare to get it from the master cylinder, through the bulkheads, round the sharp left turn (the rear bank of the KV6 is only 3-4 inches away), round two fat heater hoses and off at the correct angle to line up with the slave connector - all without touching anything.

Another point against the Tazu & copper pipe: is it a good idea to have a rigid pipe connecting the SC (which moves around a bit) to the MC (which doesn't move at all).

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c30a1d44d3.jpgwhy does the pipe with the nipple have to be cut??

To fit a connector in place of the quick release connector.

1/ Cut the end off the pipe from the MC. Then cut off the end of the pipe from the SC.--The new connector then joins these two pipes together in place of the quick release jobby.

Then reverse bleed the whole system in one go.

You've lost me there Jon - where did I say the nipple had to be cut (i.e. which post)?

I wouldn't mind getting rid of the QR connector (yuk! :}) but which MC are you suggesting I use - the Tazu with copper pipe, or the standard MC with plastic pipe?

Quote.--You've lost me there Jon - where did I say the nipple had to be cut (i.e. which post)?


Could be my mistake. I read those blue dotted lines as cuts.-:shrug:

I'm not sure about which MC to use but to fit a standard coupling I guess the two pipes to be joined should have the same diameter.

However if one pipe was plastic and the other copper as long as the outside diameter was the same then the coupling would be OK on both. ( Compression coupling. )