Suspension problem now.
 

So...just had the engine done, piston rings shimmed and everything sorted nicely. Have to change the oil and coolant now I've done a couple of hundred miles and hopefully blasted all the crud out of the engine from the old oil.
BUT, I've noticed, when I go over a small hole, such as a slightly dropped man hole cover in the road on the left hand side, at anything over 25mph, there is a definite KER-BLAMO as though I've driven into a wall.

This, to me, means there's something not right with the suspension. What it is, I do not know. I have looked and there appears to be struts and things and springs on the front wheels and there endeth my diagnostics ability. I called my mechanic mate who would have a look for me, but he's off on holiday for a couple of weeks!

I have no intention of tackling this problem myself as I'd be left with a bunch of parts in the drive and no wheels, or suspension on the car. What I need to know is what is the main problem, as in what's the most likely candidate for being broken? It's both front and rear, and when "bouncing" the car in the drive, there is an odd click.:shrug:

I'm presuming something major will have to be replaced, and I was thinking therefore to upgrade or uprate the suspension parts. I've read on here that the diesel suspension is much better than the 1.8T suspension as it is rated for heavier car but fits perfectly. Is this true?

Is there anything I can get for the mechanic to fit that will easily replace what is on there but is a lot better, or a lot stronger, or longer lasting?

I was going to get a Sean the radio guy head unit fitted, but now that will have to wait till this is sorted!

Oh, and it is again doing that cut out engine thing when flooring the accellerator at about 4,000 rpm. Accellerate, BAM, accellerate. It's disconcerting. Once the suspension is done. I'm going to contact one of the T4 guys on here and get it remapped, which should hopefully cure some of that as long as the issue isn't mechanical.

Regretting buying this car. Should have waited till I found the trophy blue MG ZT that I really wanted. :o

Sounds like possibly a broken spring mate
Regards
Chris

Get someone to watch your front wheels - one at a time, while you engage first or reverse against the handbrake. If the wheel moves forward or backwards you have a failed rear bush. Not a biggy, price wise.

If the rain stops, I'll try the handbrake thing, and have a look at the springs.

If I have to change / replace them, is there a "better" spring or bush to put on instead?

Or with wheels straight, push hard on the front of the tyre, tread area, if the wheel moves backwards, same diagnosis. Not expensive , but a pain to do, jack car up ,put ramps or blocks under the wheels, let the jack down, this will take the strain of the bush bolts, which are 18mm ,you will need an offset ratchet or spanner to access them, of flexi head. Once removed, the bush SHOULD just knock off the end of the suspension arm, but sometimes they don't, and you end up having to renew the arm too. Check ball joints, jack up so front wheel clear of ground, hold wheel at 1/4 to 3 and rock side to side feel for play, if there is, then possibly worn wheel bearing, do the same at the 6 to 12 position, if play this way, then your bottom ball joint is likely culprit, it is attached to the suspension arm and not available by itself. Do you get a dive to one side when going over a bump? If so then again ,points to arm or bush , or both.

The usual culprits for a repeatable noise from the same area of suspension are drop links or one of the ball joints on the lower arm.

To give you an idea of price:
LH Lower Arm and Bush: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...2500-rbj000371
Front Drop Links: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...inks-rbm100240

The key to running a 75 / ZT (or any car) without breaking the bank is to properly diagnose issues before loading the parts cannon. :D

The advice above is spot on - in addition, check both drop links for play (using a large flathead screwdriver or pry bar to move them) and the same with the lower ball joints.

Good luck!

Well, I've had a bit of a play around, but can't really tell if there is significant movement or not. It may be that I'm just so massively strong and powerful that I'm causing things to move by my sheer strength. :D

OR...it could be that I'm so mechanically inept, I can't tell if it's simply give or movement! :laughing2:

As I'm obviously not cut out for these things on my own, I'm waiting for my mechanic mate to come back off holiday and have a proper look on his ramp so he can tell me how bad things are.

Which then brings me to the "parts cannon" bit! (LOVE that terminology!)
If I have to replace things, such as springs, is there some better stuff I can get to make the suspension better? Like, replace it with MG stuff, or Diesel springs instead of 1.8T rated springs? Are all drop links (whatever they are!) the same, or are there better ones?
I know on my Blackbird, the rear suspension is a Showa, and I can swap that out for a Hagon, or an Ohlins with infinitely more pre-load and damping adjustment and even get one rated for my actual bodyweight. But I don't know if there is a R75 equivalent of "improved" suspension bits. Can anyone help with advice?
It'll be a couple weeks before I know what I need, so dmgrs, expect an order for some bits soon.

Put your steering in a straight line, apply hand Brake, put your foot against a front wheel and try to push back, see if there is any movement there if so wishbone bushes are shot???

Rev